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Old 05-15-2013, 09:20 AM   #15871
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattR302 View Post
So over the weekend, I picked up a spare set of wheels for my 98 SE. These will be for dirt tires, my current wheels will have street tires.

My current sprocket & chain setup for my street tires is 15F/41R with a 108-link chain, these have only ~1000 miles on them. I'm going to buy a new rear sprocket for the dirt wheels.

Does anyone have any idea how many teeth I can go up to on the rear sprocket while keeping the 15 tooth front and 108-link chain?

Thanks in advance!
I have a 13, 14, 15 for front sprocket to chose from and a 41, 43 in the back. I can run all combos with the same chain, though 15,43 is pretty tight, If you want to keep the smae chain I would suggest not going past a 43, maybe a 44. Then you can drop the front sprocket down to make up for the length requiremnt.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:47 AM   #15872
Nortonbrian
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Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
I have a pretty new to me DR that I'm trying to get the clutch adjustment right on. When I first got it, it didn't seem to shift all that smoothly, especially the 1-2 shift. I got it better by taking out a bit of the free play in the lever, but if I rush the shift I still feel a bit of a "catch".. more clunk than I would like. So today I removed a bit more free play in the lever, but I am fairly sure I got it to slip a couple times, but coasting and going full throttle in 3rd or 4th gear. It did seem to shift a bit smoother then, but like I said, I think it slipped a bit. So I dialed it back to where I was before.. no slip, but not the smoothest shifts. Is there a lever that has more of a bow to it that allows for a longer pull? What is the proper thing to do in this situation? I really hope that my transmission is not buggered and I hope the clutch plates don't need replacing. I looked through the Clymer manual and I did not see reference to the angle of the clutch lever on the splines (the one on top of the case). On mine, it forms a 90* angle with the cable when the clutch is pulled. Should it be 90* then, or when the clutch is at rest (engaged)?
Rule of thumb on any cable operated arm, be it clutch or drum brake is that the angle between the arm and cable should never exceed 90 degrees. So when the clutch lever is pulled in the operating arm should be at 90 degrees or less, this will give the most efficient operation. If you take out free play at the clutch lever you will damage the release bearing and induce clutch slip. The DR clutch is not too bad, try a Triumph some time!
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:47 PM   #15873
Anonawesome
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Originally Posted by 8lives View Post
I went 1 tooth up on my 97 350 and it made the freeway good,and front sprockets are easy to change.
+1 Changing the front sprocket is the way to go. No need to change your chain and you can carry a different size for the trail and throw it on in 20mins.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:43 PM   #15874
jackanory
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Think the spec for fuel level is 1.5mm above the gasket surface, which should be obtainable with a 14.7mm float height.
Why am I thinking it is supposed to be 1.5mm under the gasket surface? I'm almost positive I read that in a few places.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:58 PM   #15875
motolab
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Originally Posted by jackanory View Post
Why am I thinking it is supposed to be 1.5mm under the gasket surface? I'm almost positive I read that in a few places.
I have only ever seen 1.5 above.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:54 PM   #15876
trippda
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Originally Posted by Crenshaw View Post
+2. Not only that but the chain always bounces around a ton with no load on it. Have you actually tried riding it?

Is your chain extra long or stretched? Doesn't look like you have any adjustment left on the eccentrics...
I had it too tight in the pic. And with no load on it, it was jumpy like you suggested. Two clicks looser, and sat down vroom vroom!





PS
I am paranoid. and my other bike is a shafty
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:30 AM   #15877
Anonawesome
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There's pretty much no situation that the float level needs to be adjusted. I've heard a lot of people give this as advice but the metal tab is not really something that's meant to be adjusted. Unless you're really convinced that the PO did something to it, it's very unlikely to be the issue.
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:50 AM   #15878
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
There's pretty much no situation that the float level needs to be adjusted. I've heard a lot of people give this as advice but the metal tab is not really something that's meant to be adjusted. Unless you're really convinced that the PO did something to it, it's very unlikely to be the issue.
Well, maybe. But most of these carbs have been apart a few times, and if you aren't carefull it's easy to bend that little tab with out even knowing it. Higher or lower fuel level will probably cause performance issues (rich/lean). once you understand how to set the float level it's pretty simple to get it right and worth checking every time.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:04 AM   #15879
MrPulldown
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I would tend to agree with Anonawesome.

Most carb problems seem to be related to worn slide (on a pumper) and wrong jetting air/fuel mixture.

Go through rugged exposures ordeal. After he tore through his entire bike, his buddy fixed his bike by dramiticly changing the jetting.

Not saying that the float level is not worth checking...
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:07 AM   #15880
MrPulldown
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about to route a decomp lever. Where does it go on the handle bar.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:13 AM   #15881
Greg Bender
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Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
about to route a decomp lever. Where does it go on the handle bar.
Check out my photos starting here and then scroll down, you can see how I've got mine mounted.
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d..._-_tusk_d-flex

I hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:57 AM   #15882
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Check out my photos starting here and then scroll down, you can see how I've got mine mounted.
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d..._-_tusk_d-flex

I hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Low. This is how I remember seeing most of them mounted. The FSM says high though. I think I will go the low route. Thanks.

Abuddy of mine is coming up this weekend. I am goig to try to get the spare DR running so we can go for a little ride.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:17 PM   #15883
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Low. This is how I remember seeing most of them mounted. The FSM says high though. I think I will go the low route. ...
Mine is high. I might try low. Not sure it matters as long as you can reach it.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:23 PM   #15884
Greg Bender
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Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Mine is high. I might try low. Not sure it matters as long as you can reach it.
Agreed. I think I ran mine underneath because I like the feel of it there and the cable routing seemed better to me at the time. As long as it works...

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:29 PM   #15885
yotatoy
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Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Agreed. I think I ran mine underneath because I like the feel of it there and the cable routing seemed better to me at the time. As long as it works...

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Greg,

I didn't realize the man behind "thisoldtractor" was a member here on ADV. Thanks for your site and hosting the repair manuals. A huge help for me.

Cheers!

Chad
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