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Old 05-15-2013, 04:49 AM   #16
Unstable Rider
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One thing to check, or have checked, is chain alignment. If your back wheel/sprocket is ka-ka in the swing arm, relative to the path to the front sprocket, the chain will get pissed off at you sooner than later.

Also, the art of proper chain tension a debatable uhh, debate. Load your bike with moderate gear, or heavy if you normally haul heavy. Sit upon the beast.



(not my image-taken by another inmate, just thought the post need graphical interphase).


Now have someone ELSE check your chain tension, slack between here and there, etc. One cannot really check the chain tension without having the rider and gear on there if you are talking about a bike with rear suspension and a swing arm, cause the slack is going to change under a load, unless you have some rigid Harley get up, i dunno. Remember, looser better than too tight in this situation. It's not a cheerleader

Kerosene has been used for more years by farmers and frontier techs to free up rusted crappy gears, stuck pistons and chain type devices. It wont hurt nothing. Get it by the gallon, or liter if you ain't from around here....... pour it in a wash pan and keep rinsing the chain and go at it with a toothbrush until the "bath water" (Kerosene) is cleanish.

Couple times a season, anyway. I have some in a spray bottle for in between. Works great on a swing arm to take off all the expensive cake eater chain lube most of us wasted our money on, you know, the stuff that is not supposed to fly off and get stuck on your swingarm.... but does anyway..... Kerosene a great rim and spoke detail spray.

I shop around and find white lithium spray-grease. There are different brands, but I stopped using store bought chain lube and have many, many trouble free miles on my chains. If you have a crappy spot, your done.

Find a nice aftermarket provider of decent generic type chains and sprockets.... like rocky mountain atv motorcycle supply. $89 bucks for a new chain and front and rear sprockets for a KLR as an example.

If it's some foo-foo bike that they don't cover, then ditch the bike brother .

Just the unpolished babblings of a complete mad-man. Don't listen to a thing I said.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:40 PM   #17
duffs OP
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Location: Battersea (London) UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unstable Rider View Post
One thing to check, or have checked, is chain alignment. If your back wheel/sprocket is ka-ka in the swing arm, relative to the path to the front sprocket, the chain will get pissed off at you sooner than later.

Also, the art of proper chain tension a debatable uhh, debate. Load your bike with moderate gear, or heavy if you normally haul heavy. Sit upon the beast.

Now have someone ELSE check your chain tension, slack between here and there, etc. One cannot really check the chain tension without having the rider and gear on there if you are talking about a bike with rear suspension and a swing arm, cause the slack is going to change under a load, unless you have some rigid Harley get up, i dunno. Remember, looser better than too tight in this situation. It's not a cheerleader

Kerosene has been used for more years by farmers and frontier techs to free up rusted crappy gears, stuck pistons and chain type devices. It wont hurt nothing. Get it by the gallon, or liter if you ain't from around here....... pour it in a wash pan and keep rinsing the chain and go at it with a toothbrush until the "bath water" (Kerosene) is cleanish.

Couple times a season, anyway. I have some in a spray bottle for in between. Works great on a swing arm to take off all the expensive cake eater chain lube most of us wasted our money on, you know, the stuff that is not supposed to fly off and get stuck on your swingarm.... but does anyway..... Kerosene a great rim and spoke detail spray.

I shop around and find white lithium spray-grease. There are different brands, but I stopped using store bought chain lube and have many, many trouble free miles on my chains. If you have a crappy spot, your done.

Find a nice aftermarket provider of decent generic type chains and sprockets.... like rocky mountain atv motorcycle supply. $89 bucks for a new chain and front and rear sprockets for a KLR as an example.

If it's some foo-foo bike that they don't cover, then ditch the bike brother .

Just the unpolished babblings of a complete mad-man. Don't listen to a thing I said.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/
Thanks for this - I do keep the chain on the floppier side as I usually ride 2-up (daily commute). And double-check the alignment by measuring the position of the axle on each side.

4 litres of kerosene (sold as paraffin here) is less than £7 so cheap as chips, will def get some for the new chain - 1/10th the cost of £££££ commercial chain cleaners.

Was thinking more about the original chain - when I had my tyres replaced last October the f**king idiots at the tyre shop over-tensioned the chain when they put the wheel back on and I didn't notice this until after a weekend a heavy trail riding using the full range of suspension travel. It is very likely something got stretched/damaged, the chain barely had 10mm of slack (BMW recommend 35-45mm). And they left one of the axle locking bolts loose. Bloody knobheads. Although I only have myself to blame because I didn't check when I collected the bike, you'd think you wouldn't need to going to a 'professional'. Lesson learnt.
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:49 PM   #18
duffs OP
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Battersea (London) UK
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Chain - fused links after 7k miles

Quote:
Originally Posted by epicxcrider View Post
I've never cleaned my chain, but always keep it lubed (when I can). I use whatever oil I have for lube, old fork oil, ATF, dry teflon, wax lube, whatever. Never used solvents on it. 18,500 miles and still going strong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by raider View Post
My experience has always been those most obsessed by chain maintenance are those most likely to have trouble with their chains, no matter what cleaning/non-cleaning/lubricating/smoking with incense regime they use. Outright neglect seems the only way to make chains last, IMHO. My original CZ chain is still, as far as I can tell, made of metal and attached to the motorcycle. Good enough
Yup, agree that the abrasion from scrubbing the shite out of the chain too much can't be any good for the o-rings. My biggest worry is leaving all sorts of dirt/dust/sand/etc on it after riding muddy trails. My old bike (strictly a road bike) was still on the original chain after 10,000 miles, and I barely did any maintenance on it other than a spray of lube now and then, although that bike never saw anything worse than a pothole on a paved road.
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duffs screwed with this post 06-14-2013 at 05:19 PM
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:52 PM   #19
oldenuf
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Location: Port Angeles, WA
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kinked links

When the chain develops these tight links, I have had no real success getting anything past the o-ring to free them up. I have ground them apart and they are dry with no lube. Rather than risk a chain failure I say just replace it. As a rule now I use nothing that is a solvent on the chain, just wipe it down with an rag and put on new lube.

Art
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:28 AM   #20
Twinz
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I use a Grease Ninja to lube my chain when on a trip...works great! http://www.greaseninja.com/

Grease Ninja says that both WD40 and kerosene will get past the o-rings/x-rings and dilute the grease if too much is used. I use kerosene on a rag to clean my chain. I use the DuPont dry multi-use teflon lube with my Grease Ninja. The dry multi-use stuff was discontinued by DuPont, but their Dry Teflon Chain Saver is the "new" dry stuff! On my recent 4000 mile trip, I did not even use all of one can of the dry teflon lube.
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