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Old 05-16-2013, 05:59 AM   #10696
1911fan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isgila View Post
When doing oil change, i always drain about a liter first. Then start the bike for a second or two. Low oil lights up indicating the sensor works.

Ummm...... I sure as hell wouldn't do that. The light comes on because you have low oil pressure, which can be damaging to the engine. Why would you purposely start the bike in a known bad condition? If I don't know whether or not my sender works, there are better ways of testing it.


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Old 05-16-2013, 07:04 AM   #10697
tomatoe333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911fan View Post
Ummm...... I sure as hell wouldn't do that. The light comes on because you have low oil pressure, which can be damaging to the engine. Why would you purposely start the bike in a known bad condition? If I don't know whether or not my sender works, there are better ways of testing it.


This.

If you want to know if your pressure sender works, simply turn the ignition on without starting the bike. Engine stopped = zero oil pressure, and the oil light should light up and stay on. It should also go out quickly (within a second) of starting up the bike.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:45 AM   #10698
dwayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isgila View Post
When doing oil change, i always drain about a liter first. Then start the bike for a second or two. Low oil lights up indicating the sensor works. Switch off the bike then continue draining.
I always top up 2 liter of fresh oil. Its easier to top up rather than drain out.
It's NOT an oil level sensor (you mentioned "low oil") it's an oil pressure sensor. It is possible to maintain oil pressure with less oil than the "full line" BUT if you have a low oil pressure condition in the engine, damage (especially to the cam journals in this type of engine... the are set high and are plane or hydraulic bearings) is likely...granted it is more likely with extended running at higher RPMs, Ironically the main bearing will are less likely to be damaged (roller bearings lower in the engine).

It seems a needlessly risky way to test the light when you can accomplish the same thing by watching to see if it turns on after you hit the kill button.
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:51 AM   #10699
GrizzLee
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Widest front tire

Folks,

I am tentatively planning a trip to Alaska with my 17 year old son. We would leave the first week in July. He will be riding the Dakar (me, I will be on my 1200 GSA).

I am looking to get a second set of tires to ship up there (either Fairbanks or Whitehorse) for the bikes. We are planning to ride the Dalton Hwy (We hiked and have driven the Dempster hwy 3 times now). Because most of the ride will be mostly pavement with some gravel (save for the Dalton.. which can be sludge). I am leaning towards Metzler Toruances. However, I was thinking that a larger (wider front tire) would be nice for him especially in cornering. He is new to riding and we will be taking it nice and slow on two lane roads all the way up from our home in Washington State.

I am looking around and am wondering what the largest tire I could get on the front that would be road friendly and still have some dirt capability (I don't want big commando off-road tires).

2nd question...
I was also thinking of converting the rims to tubeless. To avoid the flat hassles associated with tubed wheels. Anyone done this? Like it?

Was looking at the Outex tubeless kit.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:11 AM   #10700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
Fuck Touratech and their fucking stoneage designs #IMO_sucks
Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
I can see you are having a good day there Gravelseeker, care to enlighten us
Glad you asked.....lost power to my IMO... dead, no speedo nor fuel range and trip-, day-, season- and total milage get's more off as it's not logging any info. It's happened intermittently before, but it was full stop this time.

TT has gone for a very odd sollution when it comes to collecting all the info and passing it on to the IMO itself. Instead of "one" solid two-piece regular contact, they have a little collector box with a print card. In addition to being another fairly large piece you have to store behind the headlight (or somewhere else), there are shifty little weak ass quick contacts on the print card and the main 8-lead for the IMO is soldered to the card. The little contacts are not very sturdy and work loose over time (my IMO is 10-11 years old).
Come to think of it I'll try to cut all the wires and bypass the little collector box next time I'm in behind the headlight.

Shifty little weak ass quick contacts:



And the collector box where the shifty little weak ass quick contacts mate with the print card:





Secondly, another annoying fact which is why the next time my battery dies, I'll move to another brand. You can either ship the unit to TT in Germany to have the battery replaced (I did and payed about $135) or you can try to separate the IMO and get in there yourself.

Inside the IMO itself are (form the lid down)
- Screen/ monitor
- Top print card
- Bottom print card with the internal battery

Everything is caked in silicone so I left it to the pro's, but may have given it a try if I had known about about these instructions

It's 2013, time to get our heads out of the '80-90s.

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Old 05-17-2013, 04:30 AM   #10701
WayneC1
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Gravelseeker, can understand your frustration, they did not make it easy but it appears to be to protect from vibration, that battery looks familiar, what numbers are on it ?. For someone in electronics it would be relatively easy to work on it

Your link to the instruction is faulty but I managed to go and look at them and they are quite well written
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:39 AM   #10702
Aquatic
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I can get you the sizes this evening.
What I can remember is that 8mm shorter on the dogbone gives you roughly an inch under your bum.

I should be machining myself a set next weekend.

Finally got time on the machine



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Old 05-17-2013, 06:42 PM   #10703
Nesbocaj
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Beauticious!
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:09 AM   #10704
ferals5
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Thomas... I was looking a few years back and found this post....I don't remember you in the results

07-17-2010, 09:18 AM
#2836

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Thomas

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Quote:
Originally Posted by notmybikemodelname
Is that a dare?

CLEAN Diesel! just doing my part for clean air.


A dare to get it done ? Sure I dare you

I hope you know I'm a big fan of your build and that I'm just jealous ?!


Speaking of crazy projects - I'm entering the 2013 Tuareg Rally on mine...
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:56 AM   #10705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Gravelseeker, can understand your frustration, they did not make it easy but it appears to be to protect from vibration, that battery looks familiar, what numbers are on it ?. For someone in electronics it would be relatively easy to work on it

Your link to the instruction is faulty but I managed to go and look at them and they are quite well written
Edit:
Yet another weak part is the film used on the lid.
When we sent our IMOs to TT for the battery replacements they replaced the screen on mine and also replaced the film on all the lids. This was in the spring of 2009 and my lid/ film is now ready for replacement again. It looks water/ sun bleached and damaged. Seriously ?! It's made for an outdoors activity so it ought to hold up being used outdoors...

Fixed the link. Thanks

No idea what type of battery it is, but it looks like a standard CR2450 or so.

And yeah, nothing's ever goen wrong with the IMO itself so it is well protected from vibrations, but they have not put the same line of thought into the "collector box" connections... I remember back in the early '00s if you bought a Garmin GPS from Touratech it had been split open and had the TT anti vibration kit fitted (a tube of glue/ silicone in strategic places).

After I traced and fixed the conection problem the other night (4 zip ties and half a roll of electrical tape....) I took it for a 100 km ride yesterday and everything was working perfectly again.

Found a better picture of the connectors

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Old 05-18-2013, 03:27 AM   #10706
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Quote:
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Speaking of crazy projects - I'm entering the 2013 Tuareg Rally on mine...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferals5 View Post
Thomas... I was looking a few years back and found this post....I don't remember you in the results
Yeah, funny story that.... not funny haha, but funny ouch

It wasn't set in stone, but I did have an oral agreement with a buddy to do the 2013 edition.
We didn't enter. Many reasons.

Mine are:

I crashed pretty heavily after a highsider 3 weeks after that post in 2010. This was whilst attending a gravel/ offroad riding course.
Fucked my left shoulder, 5-6 left ribs front and rear and left pecs. Having inherited some bad genes so unfortunately I don't heal as fast as others so it took about 18-20 months before that was back to normal.

In the mean time I managed to herniate two discs in my lower back in May 2011 after dropping it when parking one day when I got home from work. So now ciatica is really pulling a number on me. Some days are better than others, but it puts a damper on things and I haven't been riding much recreationally the last couple of years, just commuting.

And I've also found that I've become a real pussy and don't have the same confidence I used to have when attacking corners and slippery surfaces. I reckon mainly due to the highsider, but also lack of training and of course old age.
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:32 AM   #10707
WayneC1
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Gravelseeker it is a little bit of a beast of a box to connect 10 items, screw connectors can be good, I use them for heated grips but the wire sizes on the IMO wiring is far thicker than it needs to be for low power / sensor circuits

With the battery it does look like a CR Series, there are sockets available from electronics stores for them to avoid soldering which you could consider
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:55 AM   #10708
dansin
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Pan Racing Trofeo exhaust

A few pictures of the exhaust. It's approximately 42mm ID so I'm guessing it'll fit to the stock header pipe. It also came with a header if it won't mate to the one on the bike.







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Old 05-18-2013, 06:25 AM   #10709
Gravel Seeker
Thomas
 
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Location: Dreary old Norway, dreaming of adventures past
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Gravelseeker it is a little bit of a beast of a box to connect 10 items, screw connectors can be good, I use them for heated grips but the wire sizes on the IMO wiring is far thicker than it needs to be for low power / sensor circuits

With the battery it does look like a CR Series, there are sockets available from electronics stores for them to avoid soldering which you could consider
The battery just sist under a clip I think so no need to solder, but it's separating the top and bottom printcards to ge to the battery that put me off it.
And it's not the screw part that's the problem, the whole brown contact slips off the bracket/ card
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 05-22-2013, 07:49 AM   #10710
where2next?
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Replacement handlebars?

So I bent my stock bars. The bike already has risers on them the throttle cable is already so tight that turning the bars one way causes the engine to rev up (not a big fan of this). So my question is what are people installing in place of the stock bars? how wide can you go? is there a source for longer throttle cables and/or clutch and brake lines? Ideally I'd like to go to a wider set of bars with less sweep so I can get over the front end more easily off road.
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