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Old 05-18-2013, 10:39 AM   #1
MikeTheMechanic OP
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BoosterPlug vs. Accelerator Module

Hello guys!

I am running through the threads that have to do with these two modules. I am thinking of putting one for my bike, however which of the two do you suggest?

The BoosterPlug or the one from Mark Vernact's? Also, I see there is a difference in the cost that is around 80 euros.

I ride in Greece, in the island of Crete, where usually the winter the temperature is between 5 - 20 degrees Celsius and in summer is around 26 - 45 degrees Celsius.


Thanks in advance

Mike

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Old 05-18-2013, 12:02 PM   #2
DoWorkSon
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Originally Posted by MikeTheMechanic View Post
Hello guys!

I am running through the threads that have to do with these two modules. I am thinking of putting one for my bike, however which of the two do you suggest?

The BoosterPlug or the one from Mark Vernact's? Also, I see there is a difference in the cost that is around 80 euros.

I ride in Greece, in the island of Crete, where usually the winter the temperature is between 5 - 20 degrees Celsius and in summer is around 26 - 45 degrees Celsius.


Thanks in advance

Mike

I have had both, the booster plug on my 1150GS and the Accelerator on my F800GS.... Both work pretty much the same, similar results.

I went with Accelerator because of the price.

The extended version has the temp gauge on a longer wire so you can move it wherever you want on the bike, I put mine up front under the beak
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:14 AM   #3
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It is very important to place the sensor in the Intake Airstream (just as the OEM sensor is).
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:24 AM   #4
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The air temp sensor for engine control is in the top of the air box. There is a second temp sensor located in the front of the bike that measures ambient temp for your temp gauge.

I am not sure what flow has to do with it, as all it can do is measure temperature in the air box. Locating a remote sensor away from engine heat makes sense, but does not necessarily mean it has to be located in the flow or in front the engine.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:35 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by itsatdm View Post
The air temp sensor for engine control is in the top of the air box. There is a second temp sensor located in the front of the bike that measures ambient temp for your temp gauge.

I am not sure what flow has to do with it, as all it can do is measure temperature in the air box. Locating a remote sensor away from engine heat makes sense, but does not necessarily mean it has to be located in the flow or in front the engine.
Let me be overly serious for a moment-

Since intake manifold air temperature is used along with barometric pressure to calculate air density & volume, so that the BMSK knows how much fuel to inject, you want the BoosterPlug sensor to measure air that is as close to the temperature of the air going into the cylinder. So you want it to be influenced by engine heat if that heat is warming the intake air.

That way, if you're at a light, on a hot day, and hot engine air is being drawn into the intake for combustion, you want that hotter temperature, so that your engine runs well.

The last thing you want it to measure is the cooler air away from the engine.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:52 AM   #6
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Not to be argumentative, but most riders mount these extended sensors out front of the engine to gather all the cool air they can. So they must be doing it wrong.

I "think" barometric pressures are taken somewhere else, probably directly at the ECU. The extended temp gauge, would lead a person to believe that the colder air you can measure will result in a richer mixture.

The important thing, I think is to put the remote sensor in a location that it is taking temps that are no WARMER than that in the air box.

I think Mark Vernacchi's orginal sensor did that because it is routed over the engine and has layers of plastic to keep heat away.

It is antidotal, but mine works fine according to the seat of my pants.
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:00 PM   #7
roger 04 rt
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Originally Posted by itsatdm View Post
Not to be argumentative, but most riders mount these extended sensors out front of the engine to gather all the cool air they can. So they must be doing it wrong.

I "think" barometric pressures are taken somewhere else, probably directly at the ECU. The extended temp gauge, would lead a person to believe that the colder air you can measure will result in a richer mixture.

The important thing, I think is to put the remote sensor in a location that it is taking temps that are no WARMER than that in the air box.

I think Mark Vernacchi's orginal sensor did that because it is routed over the engine and has layers of plastic to keep heat away.

It is antidotal, but mine works fine according to the seat of my pants.
Accepted and I don't want to be argumentative either. However like many areas that I've been testing on the BMW motorcycle ECUs there is a lot on anecdotal information—much of that is right but there's a lot which is wrong too.

Yes, if it is not measuring the air temperature of the air going into the combustion chamber it is being done wrong. States bluntly, but true. I'll point out that it may not matter in a moment.

As an example, let's say the air is 20C but the air at hot idle in the intake is 40C. If your device is measuring the 20C air and sending a signal that makes the BMSK believe the air is 0C, the BMSK will fuel to 12% more fuel when you were looking to add 6%.

On the other hand your bike can handle 12% more fuel for those moments when you are stopped in traffic. In fact, until you accelerate from the stop your BMSK is closed loop and calculating fuel based on the O2 sensor, mostly ignoring the air temperature.

But even in this case while you are idling, the BMSK sees air temp 0C and sends the closed loop program a fueling value that is 12% to rich. The closed loop routine realizes that mixture as too rich and creates a WRONG short term adaptation value that in effect tells the BMSK, net time you go Open Loop, SUBTRACT 12% from the fuel. This means your acceleration is with a leaner mixture than you want. Interesting, eh?

RB
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:59 PM   #8
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If intake includes the air box environment where the stock sensor is taking the temp, I agree. Put the extended sensor in the air box.

Before extended air temp sensors were fashionable, the Accelerator module was nothing more than 12" of wire with resisters built into the plugs between the air temp sensor and its connection to the ECU.

Not exactly the same environment, but only the air box lid separated them.

My goal, was to deal with the very lean afr at low rpm, so I could get through a field of rocks without launching myself into a big one when the mixture got richer at about 2,200 rpm. It seems to do that.

As to the rest of it, I was happy with stock.
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itsatdm screwed with this post 05-20-2013 at 12:03 AM
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:20 PM   #9
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FWIW, I put the booster plug sensor in the top of the air box. It made sense to me to have it close the the factory sensor. It seems to work fine, but I have not tried it out in front.
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:56 AM   #10
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Guys, listen to what Roger says.
What is the point in measuring an air temperature value that is not of the air going into the engine?
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:46 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsatdm View Post
If intake includes the air box environment where the stock sensor is taking the temp, I agree. Put the extended sensor in the air box.

Before extended air temp sensors were fashionable, the Accelerator module was nothing more than 12" of wire with resisters built into the plugs between the air temp sensor and its connection to the ECU.

Not exactly the same environment, but only the air box lid separated them.

My goal, was to deal with the very lean afr at low rpm, so I could get through a field of rocks without launching myself into a big one when the mixture got richer at about 2,200 rpm. It seems to do that.

As to the rest of it, I was happy with stock.
Inside the intake air box is an ideal spot. A hole and some silicone seal would work well. If you like the gains you get with an "air" device you'd like this more: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=887052

This well known guy who I helped did: http://guzzitech.dk/category/bmwf800s/
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:59 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by roger 04 rt View Post
Inside the intake air box is an ideal spot. A hole and some silicone seal would work well. If you like the gains you get with an "air" device you'd like this more: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=887052

This well known guy who I helped did: http://guzzitech.dk/category/bmwf800s/
Roger nails it.

We covered this in a fair amount of detail in this thread.
Booster Plug NTC sensor location?

Here are a few key posts that discuss specifically...
#23 - Back/forth between The Griz and I
#25 - Back/forth between The Griz and I
#26 - Back/forth between The Griz and I
#27 - jenslh, the creator of BoosterPlug chimes in
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:22 AM   #13
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Thanks everyone for the reply. I also had a talk with my mechanic and he said that he has also a kind of BoosterPlug in his 1200ADV.

So, I am gonna buy the Accelerator Module and try to put the temperature sensor in the place you suggest.

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Old 12-06-2013, 11:39 AM   #14
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I come back to this thread and I see that there are more options available now :

ReCyclizer http://www.novitech.nl/abouteng.html €35/$45.91
Booster Plug http://www.boosterplug.com $149.95
Accelerator http://sol2.be/Accelerator/English/index.html €40/$52.44 €48/$62.93
Power FRK http://www.powerfrkusa.net $293.00
MemJet http://www.memjetmodule.com $198.00
Wukaking http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=777887


What on earth should I choose and why?
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:07 PM   #15
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Really you should have a read through this thread: AF-XIED for BMW.

It offers a lot more performance for only a little more money. See what you think.
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