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Old 05-16-2013, 04:49 AM   #466
dirtysouthjacket
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Location: Columbia, SC
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I swapped fork oil last night (10w now) and put in a twice as long as stock preload spacer. I am also around an 85-90mm air gap. Definitely helped get stiffen the front up. I'm still using the stock BMW springs with Husky Cartridges. The front also sits slightly higher now. I might move the triple clamps down the forks slightly, but am nervous about bottoming out.

Didn't get to ride long since I got done so late last night. But I like the changes. I was way too soft before. I had really bad bouncing on the street like NCD mentions. THat is a lot better now, but still there a little. Braking is better, and handling on the street corners the bike feels more confidant. I think I am going to get in trouble riding to work today.

Any work NCD on the revalve kit? Still waiting on details? I saw you mentioned the price.

Also, I ran my clickers all the way in while they were off to make sure they were working properly. I have 24 clicks on the bottom compression and 20ish on the top rebound. Marzocchi manual says 16. Might be a difference since they came off the Husky. How much do the stock Aprilia RXV clickers have? I might be a little more liberal with my adjustments now.

I am heading to RDV Rally this weekend in Tellico Plains so should get some good dirt riding in, anyone else going to be there?
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2011 F800GS Alpine White, 1998 KDX 200, 2000 KL250G Super Sherpa
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:26 AM   #467
NCD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtysouthjacket View Post

Any work NCD on the revalve kit? Still waiting on details? I saw you mentioned the price.
The kit is available from Ian at Rider's Edge Suspension in B.C. It worked great. It saves you from having to ship your fork off to someone to do the work. If you understand where the shims are, how to change them, and air gaps, etc - - go for it!

He responds quick via email, and is a great guy to talk to as well.

Just tell him you are doing the 800GS/Shiver swap and he knows the deal now.

Best part, if you want to manipulate the damping in the future, you will have what you need on hand to make the changes during fork oil changes, etc. You wont be locked into the 'ship to a tuner' scenario.

He was the best choice for knowing Shivers, understanding ADV riding needs, and having a DIY solution for riders wanting to do the work themselves.

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Old 05-16-2013, 04:08 PM   #468
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If someone wants to put together a basic recap of the info in this thread I'll be happy to update the first post with it. :-D

I don't even own an F800GS anymore...
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:28 PM   #469
dirtysouthjacket
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I kept some pretty good detailed notes. Decided its in decent enough shape to just post here. Feel free to copy paste, whatever you want and move up to the front. I'd like to get my pics organized and post them as well.

Shiver 45mm Fork Conversion Info
This is for 2009-2012 F800GS Bikes, 2013 and newer went to a different fork

Steps

0. Thoroughly read the thread, and the Marzocchi Fork manual (it was VERY informative)
1. Purchase Donor Forks
List of Donor Forks is on page
List of Matching BIkes, Page 9 of Thread, Post #
2. Contact Machine Shop
3. Contact Suspension Shop
4. Access to Special Tools
19mm wrenches x2
Fork Seal Driver
” Allen Key helps to take the wheel off
E14 Inside Torx Wrench for Caliper Bolts
5. Purchase Parts
Fork Oil (Most use 10w to start)
Fork Seal Driver (1 ” PVC Coupling Tube)
Fork Seals (Not necessary, but a good idea) Moose Racing 45MM [0407-0104] ($29)

Cartridge Spacer (Depending on Donor Stroke)
Spring Spacer (Depending on Spring Length, desired preload, possible to make)

Bushings, If needed
Springs, Dependant on rider weight
6. Take Initial Sag Measurements of suspension on the F800GS
Link to how to do sag measurements
7. Take Measurements of Assembled Donor Forks
8. Take Donor Forks Apart
Procedure Link
Loosen bottom compression adjuster first, 21mm socket (Need to supply pressure downward on spring to prevent cartridge from turning inside)
Then loosen top cap, 19mm wrench
Drain oil
Pump fork and cartridge to continue getting oil out
Remove bottom compression adjuster (21 mm socket, press down on the spring as you loosen, otherwise the cartridge will just spin as you turn the adjuster)
Remove Cartridge
Remove Top Cap from Cartridge (19 mm and 19mm, force the 19 mm between spring coils, a thin Pittsburg wrench from Harbor Freight works, my Craftsman was too wide to fit between springs easily)
Stop here if you are not going to change your dust and oil seal


Pull the dust seal down with a small flathead screwdriver
Remove snap ring
Remove Fork Slider from fork stanchion by pulling hard and popping like a slide hammer if necessary
Carefully remove the seals and bushings
Put oil on new seals
Place tape on top of stanchion
Slide on dust seal, oil seal, washer top slider bushing, and then bottom bushing
Make sure oil seal is oriented correctly (double seal lips should be towards the top)
Place lower stanchion in top slider, slide top bushing and washer up into slider, use seal driver to push top bushing into slider
Use seal to push oil seal up into slider
Install seal ring
Put silicone grease in top of dust seal, push up into slider


9. Take Measurements of Fork Components for determing Stroke Length
My measurements
Spring Thickness (Stock X, Husky WR125 X, Aprilia X)
Spring Length BMW 476.25, Husky WR125 438.15, Aprilia X
Preload Spacer
Stroke, Compare to BMW F800GS
BMW 506mm from top caps to top ring, 238mm collapsed, 35 3/8” extended and 268 stroke
Husky, 19 3/4 (501), 8 11/16” (220) collapsed, 36 5/8” and 280 stroke
10. Determine If Donor Fork Components are Worn (Bushings, Seals, Damaged compression adjuster)
11. Determine if you will use BMW, Donor, or Purchased springs based on your weight
12. Take Forks off of F800GS
Link to Fork Seal Replacement is good for pictures
Clean bike first
Jack Bike up
Get some ziplock baggies for screws
Remove plastic brake line covers on low fender (Forward bottom clip easiest to remove, reach behind and squeeze top ones together)
Remove ABS (T-?)
Remove lower fender bolts T-30
Remove Brake Calipers, Inside Torx Wrench, hang up with a ziptie if you feel its necessary
Loosen Left Fork Axle Pinch Bolts
Loosen 17mm Axle Bolt
Loosen Right Side Axle Pinch Bolts
Push Out Axle (3/4” Allen helps here to twist the axle as you pull it out)
Remove Wheel
Remove Lower Fender
REmove Right Fork Brake Line Clamp
Loosen top triple clamp first!! (before trying to loosen the top cap on the fork)
Loosen top cap, they won’t loosen if you don’t loosen the top clamp, only loosen the top cap to make it easier later
Loosen bottom clamps one at a time and remove forks

13. Dissassemble Forks, same except you loosen an allen bolt for the cartridge, and you need a 13 mm and 19 mm to take the top cap off.
14. Make sure to measure the preload spacer on the BMW and compare to stock
Measure your springs to compare to stock
Measure your travel length
Measure Stock Fork Internals if you think they don’t look right

15. Take Donor Forks and Bottom Compression Adjuster, Lower F800GS fork tubes to Machine Shop
16. Get Machined Forks back
17a. Take forks to a supension shop or....
17b. Assemble Forks with new components (The second time I did this, I found it easier to do on the bike)
You can also now purchase a cartridge kit for the swap (Link/Contact)
Place cartridge (without spring, preload spacer if needed, and top cap) in BMW fork
Put in bottom adjuster and spring, tighten with 21mm socket while push down on spring to prevent the cartridge from turning)
Remove spring again
Lower fork slider until dust seal is touching top of the bottom foot
Add around 725ml of oil
Measure until there is a 90mm air gap from top of lower stanchion to oil level (3.54 inches) (this is the stock Marzocchi setting, BMW stock setting is 110mm I believe)
Remove oil if necessary with a straw, or by draining
Place BMW spacer and BMW spring in fork (this applies for me being 180 lbs, if you are heavier, you might want more preload, a stiffer spring, or heavier weight oil (or some combination of those three)
You can your own preload spacer out of pvc if you want to go longer
Turn out the rebound adjustment (unscrew) completely in top cap
Put top cap on cartridge rod until it bottoms out, then use 2 19mm wrenches to tighten lock nut up against top cap
Race slider and hand tighten top cap in slider
Set inital adjustments at 12 clicks of rebound in, and 10 clicks of compression in (Marzochhi Manual page...)
Release air pressure with bleed screw



18. Assemble Forks in Bike
Blue Loctite is your friend
Put Forks back in at desired height (there is a scribed line at the top of the slider that marks the stock location), hand tight the bottom clamps, leave the tops loose
Make sure the left one is in the right hole, you need the ABS hole on the left side
Tighten the top caps, (align them so they don’t look upside down or something that is going to drive you crazy every time you look at it)
Put wheel on
Lube axle lightly with grease
Tighten Axle bolt to 30NM (may need a 3/4” hex to hold axle tight)(loctite)
Tighten Axle bolts in a 1-2-1 pattern to 19 Nm T-45

Tighten fork bottom clamps (19Nm) T-45
Tighten top fork clamps

Place Lower Fender, but don’t bolt on
Hook up ABS sensor T27
Route Lines
Hook up Calipers remembering to use ABS metal bracket under caliper bolts on left side
Tighten Caliper bolts with External Torx E14
Put in Fender bolts T30
Put on Fork Clamp bracket to Brake Line
PUMP FRONT BRAKE HANDLE A FEW TIMES (Don’t want to do this on the street!)
Check for leaks
Take Measurements of Sag again
Go Ride and hit every bump you can see
Smile
Smile a little bit more
Swear a little bit that you waited so long to do this swap
Ride a few times and release pressure with bleed screws
Make Damper adjustments one to two clicks at a time
Link to Gangplanks Suspension Adjustment Guide
Send your forks off to a Suspension Shop, or contact Ian at Rider's Edge Suspension in BC for a revalve kit ($200)





More Info

List of Machine Shops that have done the work
Fergon Tool, Lexington SC

List of Places to Look for Forks
Aprilia Forum
CafeHusky.com
SupermotoJunkie
Ebay (search marzocchi, husky, husqvarna, fork, front end, aprilia, rxv)
Thumper Talk?

List of Suspension Shops in the Carolinas

Southeast Racing Suspension - James Waseman - Kings Mountain, NC - 704-739-6489

List of Parts Places
Contact Gangplank for contact info for Marzocchi Inc if other parts are needed
Aprilia Forum

Fork Seals SEAL KIT,FORK, 45MM [0407-0104] ($29)
Fork Bushings
Aprilia Fork Seal/Bushing Reconditioning Kit (from AF1) - Aprilia part no 9100858 ($42)

FAQ Section
Sag Measurements
Pg 2, Post #18, 19

Pic of Machining Work
Pg2, Post #20

Chamfer for Machine Work
Pg 2, Post #23

BMW Stock Fork Lengths
Pg 3, Post #32

Fork Length Discussion
Pg 3, Post #37

Gangplank Modified Fork Length Info
Pg 3, Post #39

Oil Discussion
Pg 3, Post #40

Gangplank Initial Ride Comments
Pg 3, Post #41, 57

Bottoming Circuit
Pg , Post #111


Spacer Pic for shorter length
Page 10, Post #140

Shock Travel Comments
Page 12, Post #169

Spring Force/Rate Comments
Pg 13, Post #185

Spring Dimensions
Pg. 13, Post #193, Table 4 in Marzocchi Manual, pg 91

Disassembly of Fork
Pg 14, Post#207 (Make sure to only loosen top cap, then Compress shock and loosen the bottom foot adjuster over a bucket, oil will come out, then remove top cap, inner cartridge and spring will come out)

Oil and Seal Comments
Post # 223

XChallenge Swap Comments
Post # 231, 233, 253

Good Visual of Different Parts with Different length Cartridge and Spacer
Post #250

EpicxRider Finished Fork Pic
pg 19, Post #271

EpicxRider’s machining measurements
pg 19, Post#272

RXV for Stock Comparison Pics
Pg 17, Post #250


Inmates that Have Converted
-W-
Gangplank (since sold)
tehdutchie (since sold)
Oso Blanco
OlyRider
YetiGS
Gaspare
Ducksbane (G650X XChallenge)
‘Flagger
epicxrider
BDevilGS
llipo
Baitfish
DoWorkSon
dirtysouthjacket
NCD
MAJTHUMPER


surferdude?
ShaunJ?
jscottyk?

PenultimateMan?
__________________
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I ended up where I intended to be. -Douglas Adams

2011 F800GS Alpine White, 1998 KDX 200, 2000 KL250G Super Sherpa
DSJ's Shenanigans

dirtysouthjacket screwed with this post 05-22-2013 at 07:38 PM Reason: Added Notes
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:29 PM   #470
dirtysouthjacket
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I'm sad to hear you no longer have an F8 anymore, what drove you to switch?
__________________
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I ended up where I intended to be. -Douglas Adams

2011 F800GS Alpine White, 1998 KDX 200, 2000 KL250G Super Sherpa
DSJ's Shenanigans
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:04 PM   #471
dirtysouthjacket
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I cleaned up the notes a little and added them two posts back. When I get back from RDV, I'll get some more links in there that were helpful and my pictures.

Gangplank, I would recommend leaving your abbreviated short list of what to do at the very beginning so my list doesn't seem too intimidating. It really is the easiest fork upgrade of all time.

I rode a good bit more today. Awesome, Awesome, Awesome.
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I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I ended up where I intended to be. -Douglas Adams

2011 F800GS Alpine White, 1998 KDX 200, 2000 KL250G Super Sherpa
DSJ's Shenanigans
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:09 PM   #472
SOP Dirt-Rider
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850957

For those not inclined mechanically, give Alex a shout, he's a rider as much as he is a technician.
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:52 PM   #473
Gangplank OP
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I got mine done at local machine shops & a good suspension shop one town over.

Best mod I did yo the F800.

Machining was $100
Revalve & respring about $400
Parts about $250

To answer the question a few posts back. I sod/traded the F800GS for a bucket of cash & an 07 F650GS w/ 11,500 mi on it that I'm putting a set of YZ250F forks on.


Posted mobile on Tapatalk
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:05 AM   #474
dirtysouthjacket
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Can't fault you for taking the cash. Hope the swap goes well!
__________________
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I ended up where I intended to be. -Douglas Adams

2011 F800GS Alpine White, 1998 KDX 200, 2000 KL250G Super Sherpa
DSJ's Shenanigans
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:22 AM   #475
D K
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Rear shock

Question to those who have made the conversin, but wanted the extra travel:

What was your solution for the rear? Did you get your shock lengthened?


D
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:46 AM   #476
Gangplank OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D K View Post
Question to those who have made the conversin, but wanted the extra travel:

What was your solution for the rear? Did you get your shock lengthened?


D
I believe most are shortening the travel of the forks to match the BMW.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:05 AM   #477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D K View Post
Question to those who have made the conversin, but wanted the extra travel:

What was your solution for the rear? Did you get your shock lengthened?


D
Nothing. I didn't notice a difference in handling from the added travel. Ride height stayed the same.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:11 PM   #478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtysouthjacket View Post
....Inmates that Have Converted...

jscottyk (completed?)...
Mine are officially 'in process'. RXV lowers delivered to machine shop today!!

jscottyk screwed with this post 05-22-2013 at 07:58 PM
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:43 PM   #479
dirtysouthjacket
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It rained pretty much my entire trip to RDV in TN. However, the forks performed wonderfully. Felt great in the twisties. Did a good bit of gravel and one hairy wet dirt/mud road on the Pirelli Scorpion tires and did fine. My Buddy with K60s on an 1100GS wasn't so lucky, but came out with only bruises. The front end really just ate anything I put in front of it. Especialy the harsh square bumps. I still need to work on the smoother bumps. The rear I noticed even more, especially since I was riding two up.

I'm definitely getting the .50 springs next week. The longer preload spacer I've decided is purely a bandaid and results in the bike sitting awfully high in the front. I also am going to add a few more clicks of compression for tomorrows ride to work.

Anyone else thinking of doing the swap?
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I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I ended up where I intended to be. -Douglas Adams

2011 F800GS Alpine White, 1998 KDX 200, 2000 KL250G Super Sherpa
DSJ's Shenanigans
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:23 PM   #480
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Well so far the .8 springs are great! I was skeptical at nearly doubling the spring rate but these make the big bike so much more predictable off road and turning into corners, especially at low speed.

Today I have to make some new spring guides on the lathe because the old ones are too big, but that shouldn't be too much of an issue.
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