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Old 05-21-2013, 06:35 AM   #1081
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rydah View Post
Yeah, I like that way better as well. My question though is where is/are the stock grounding point(s)? I believe there is one on the frame backbone near where the coil mounts? This is for the ignition circuit, right?
Then what about the other two AC legs coming off the stator (I have BD 125W x2 stator)? I assume they are ungrounded until I find one for them? If so, and I ground one (keeping it AC for the lights) to same frame, will it interfere in any way with the ignition ciruit? Sure don't seem like our puny frames are enough metal to ground that much wattage.
The existing grounds are for everything, ign & lighting (AC) since the USA XRR doesn't have a DC system normally. THere's no specific ground at the stator, those just plug into the harness. Do not ground any of the stators outputs, there's 2 leads that plug into the bikes existing harness and are for ac, the AC system is grounded in 2 places, one at the coil and the other at the frame tab under the seat next to the AC regulator. If you want to run DC also then plug the other 2 stator leads into a DC harness that you make or come up with, like I said I choose to float the DC, when you do that the DC grounds come back to the battery and ground on the (-) post. The Voltage reg/rect bolts to something metal so that would be the only common connection between the AC & DC systems.
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:11 AM   #1082
RideFreak
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Originally Posted by Ruprect View Post
I really like this idea and have (2) quick questions if you don't mind. Here is the breakdown: I'm planning to run a standard 55/60 headlight and a small incandescent taillight on the stock AC wiring, and the LED turns, brake light, horn and trailtech computer and maybe a GPS on DC. I have an old DS kit that will allow me to mount a small lead-acid battery, reg/rec, etc behind the headlight. I don't really have any plans to add any more power hungry accessories.
Question #1 - I have 18ga wire to rewind my stator with, how would you recommend dividing the AC vs DC sides re: # of poles each & turns to get enough AC to run ignition, headlight and tail & leave the rest for DC ?
Question #2 - I have the reg/rec from the old DS kit as well that has (2) red wires, (2) yellow, (1) blue and (1) black coming out of it. One of the reds has ben trimmed off flush. How would you recommend I wire this up to the DC side of the stator ?
Question #3 (I lied) - any advice on separating the AC hi/lo headlight circuit from the rest of the DC stuff in the handlebar switch. I bought a BD replacement switch with Hi/Lo, Turns and horn. Could I run dc from hi/lo to a relay with the AC thru it, and if so would I need (2) relays to enable lo and hi settings ?

THX a ton for any advice !!

Ruprect

Ruprect, I can only advise you from what worked well for me...

#1 I'd split up the poles evenly into 2 outputs to keep it simple. I used one output of a 100 x 2 RS stator to run the same stuff you described and the light was very bright using a 55/60 bulb in a RS headlight, I'd suggest an LED bulb or taillight though, why waste the watts on a taillight if you don't need it. If you decide you want more lighting later you can hang a couple LED pods from the bars and run 'em off the DC, there will be plenty of juice left if your list is correct.

#2 Not sure about that VR/Reg, I'd suggest hooking it into the system, 2 yellows to the stator output, blue (+) and black to the battery, see how well it works with a DC meter across the batt. poles. If it gets up to at least 14V when revved up you should be ok. You got an unknown and the fact that it has wires clipped makes it suspect.

#3 I think there is a schematic of the BD switch on their site, chances are the Hi/Lo share some horn and TS wiring since BD uses relays to switch the lighting. If that's the case, it will require 1 relay if you run the headlight all the time, 2 if you want to be able to switch the lights on and off. A better option is get a LH handlebar switch from an XR650L, you'll have to change the connector on the end of the wiring to suit your harness but the Hi/Lo wiring is seperate from the horn and TS and the quality is much better than the BD unit. It doesn't have provision to turn the lights off tho, I went this route and having the light on all the time wasn't an issue, it's on A/C, no battery to wear down and it was super reliable. If you start adding relays there's a good chance of the system crapping out due it's complexity vs. off-road conditions, also the AC lighting is dependant on the DC system's correct operation. Keeping them seperate will mean you still have lighting even if something craps out with the DC. You want it as simple (read reliable) as possible.
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:29 AM   #1083
Rydah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
The existing grounds are for everything, ign & lighting (AC) since the USA XRR doesn't have a DC system normally. THere's no specific ground at the stator, those just plug into the harness. Do not ground any of the stators outputs, there's 2 leads that plug into the bikes existing harness and are for ac, the AC system is grounded in 2 places, one at the coil and the other at the frame tab under the seat next to the AC regulator. If you want to run DC also then plug the other 2 stator leads into a DC harness that you make or come up with, like I said I choose to float the DC, when you do that the DC grounds come back to the battery and ground on the (-) post. The Voltage reg/rect bolts to something metal so that would be the only common connection between the AC & DC systems.
Most excellent explanation, Chris; it is becoming clearer now. But still....
So with my BD stator rewind, I have three legs coming off:
First is the ignition circuit that goes to the coil, and is grounded near the coil.
Second is one of the 125W legs that I have converted to DC using the BD rec/reg, and this is floated with all grounds going back to battery (-).
Third is the other 125W leg that will remain AC to run my headlight(s).

So this third one should also be grounded then, and should it be at the second grounding point you refered to at the frame tab under the seat (or just any convenient, clean spot on the frame)? This leg will be using the stock Honda regulator; should the reg not touch the frame, or does it matter?
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:55 AM   #1084
Ruprect
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Awesome thanks ! Yeah, I figured out the relay thing after I logged off. I'm looking for super simplicity and (barely) road legality so I'll likely just put (1) relay in for the lowbeam operated by DC running thru the handlebar switch (so I don't have to run the AC thru the handlebar switch) and a separate toggle or something on the AC after the relay to activate the highbeam since I'll rarely use it. Legally we have to have a light on all the time in Canada.

The only reason I chose an incandescent tail/lic light is cause it's running off the stock AC (always on) side & I had heard LED's don't like AC. I'll post a pic when I'm done but all I'm doing is putting a little red incandescent marker lamp (small bulb) below the rear fender & above the lic plate. I cut a hole in the underside of the red lens and glued clear plexi over it to make a lic. plate light as well. Should be slick, cheap and reliable once its all siliconed up tight. Brake light will be LED in the stock taillight spot running off DC side. That way - light you mentioned, if I have major issues with my DC wiring I'll still have headlight and taillight to get home with.

OK, one more question that I think I know the answer to but not the theory - why can I not just wind the stator all with single output AC, then tap in to it with a reg/rec and battery for the DC side ? I assume this would do weird things since the AC and DC are "sharing" the same stator coils ?

thx again - really appreciated !
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:41 PM   #1085
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rydah View Post
Most excellent explanation, Chris; it is becoming clearer now. But still....
So with my BD stator rewind, I have three legs coming off:
First is the ignition circuit that goes to the coil, and is grounded near the coil.
Second is one of the 125W legs that I have converted to DC using the BD rec/reg, and this is floated with all grounds going back to battery (-).
Third is the other 125W leg that will remain AC to run my headlight(s).

So this third one should also be grounded then, and should it be at the second grounding point you refered to at the frame tab under the seat (or just any convenient, clean spot on the frame)? This leg will be using the stock Honda regulator; should the reg not touch the frame, or does it matter?
You cannot have 3 legs coming off, the system is a single phase with 2 outputs that requires 4 wires to accomplish. The stock system has 6 wires, 2 are ignition pulser coil with a plastic connector, 2 are the ignitions AC coil and have rubber bullet connectors, up to this point it should be the same on any stator even with a rewind. Here's where it gets different; there are 2 leads that are a single AC output on a stock stator. For a rewound (high output) stator there should be 2 extra leads for the second output or 8 wires total. It takes two leads to make a single output, I've never seen a rewound stator with only 2 AC output wires (total of 6), typically there are 4 ac leads that get connected in series to create BDs single (250W) ouput otherwise they are 125W x 2 and are totally seperate outputs. Normally in a rewind such as a BD or RS system, they provide you 4 wires which combine to make 2 outputs of 125W or 100W each respectively. I just looked at the BD stator tech info and I can't find one with a single AC output.

Here's a very simple diagram of a dual system, since there's some confusion, my suggestion is to apply the wiring design to your setup. It shows how the AC leads come off the stator in pairs to make the DC and AC systems.



BD tech info


You keep mentioning grounds, none of the stator leads gets grounded. The OEM AC system has the 2 grounds I described above and that's it. You grounding scheme is really the last thing you want to address and it's going to depend on how the rest of the system is made up (AC or DC or hybrid). The grounds happen after the VR/Reg in a DC system and are part of the harness on an AC system. When you have both thats where you need to decide which one gets floated.
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:41 PM   #1086
LVCJT
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Having a few issues and would appreciate any advice.
I just installed a Tusk enduro kit on a stock stator and harness by hard wiring it into the tail light connections. The only changes that I made was adding the DRC led tail light and connections for aux lights up front. I've checked the brake switch for continuity and tried switching wires on the tail light but this is what I keep coming up with.

(1) Headlight switch. Low beam turns all lights ie. turn signals, tail lights, brake lights, head lights. Off and hi = high beams.

(2) kill switch. On = off. Off = on.

(3) oem tail light. DRC led replacement brake light always on.

(4) Brake light Tusk. Tail light works brake light won't come on.

Any ideas would be great!
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:26 AM   #1087
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertDwlr View Post
Having a few issues and would appreciate any advice.
I just installed a Tusk enduro kit on a stock stator and harness by hard wiring it into the tail light connections. The only changes that I made was adding the DRC led tail light and connections for aux lights up front. I've checked the brake switch for continuity and tried switching wires on the tail light but this is what I keep coming up with.

(1) Headlight switch. Low beam turns all lights ie. turn signals, tail lights, brake lights, head lights. Off and hi = high beams.

(2) kill switch. On = off. Off = on.

(3) oem tail light. DRC led replacement brake light always on.

(4) Brake light Tusk. Tail light works brake light won't come on.

Any ideas would be great!
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
Does the Tusk system provide a regulator/rectifier, it doesn't look like it from what I could see. It appears to run off DC and you're connecting it up to an AC system, the turnsignals def need DC. The wierd results from adding the system into the stock harness sounds like it's backfeeding, anotherwords the voltage is taking a path through the DS kit that it wasn't originally intended to take. If you have a 12V source available (battery or automotive battery charger or the battery pack that came with the system) connect it to the tusk system as the instructions show and test the operation, you should be able to get it to work correctly in that manner, then you know the DSK is working right. At that point connect it to your XRs electrical system and see what happens. I suspect the problem is the tusk system is designed as a DC system and like I said you're trying to run it off AC. for the most part that should work except when it comes to the horn and turnsignals although the stator output is marginal for that application.
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:22 PM   #1088
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Probably covered somewhere, but my searches keep coming up blank. Just rebuilt an '00 and need a schematic for the baja designs dot kit. Particularly the under seat connections. Shame on them for not using matching wire colors!

Thanks!
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:40 PM   #1089
Kiko
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Originally Posted by The Haymaker View Post
Probably covered somewhere, but my searches keep coming up blank. Just rebuilt an '00 and need a schematic for the baja designs dot kit. Particularly the under seat connections. Shame on them for not using matching wire colors!

Thanks!
This may help..

http://www.bajadesigns.com/tech-info/honda-tech-support
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:36 AM   #1090
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Thank you, hopefully that'll get me rolling. Did a crank-up rebuilt on this Pig and my eye is twitching because this one stupid issue is all that's holding me back.

On that note, I am totally unimpressed with the quality of the BD kid. loosely crimped bullets, mismatched colors, spaghetti mess under the seat....
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:01 PM   #1091
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Originally Posted by The Haymaker View Post
Thank you, hopefully that'll get me rolling. Did a crank-up rebuilt on this Pig and my eye is twitching because this one stupid issue is all that's holding me back.

On that note, I am totally unimpressed with the quality of the BD kid. loosely crimped bullets, mismatched colors, spaghetti mess under the seat....
I just went through that. Had to check and trace all wires and bullet connectors. It helped that I had a Honda factory manual so at least I knew what the stock harness wire colors were. In my case a lot of the problems can be placed at the feet of the original installer.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:50 AM   #1092
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So I'm wiring up my 8" race light via one of the 125w legs of my BD rewound stator. I'm going to be using it in a floated AC loop. Can anyone give me a reason why I would not want to just wire it without a relay tied into the BD light switch? I cant think of a reason why I would not just keep it simple and wire it without all of that business.

If for whatever reason i did not want it on, i could always just unplug the light?

If i did unplug it would there be any damage done to the lighting coil since there would be no output for the power?


One last unrelated question, on the BD DC Rec/Reg, there are two yellow wires for input, do these have any sort of polarity? Can i just plug either green or white into either? (i know this is a lame question)
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:27 PM   #1093
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BD Kit - Juice to charge cell phone?

I'm very weak on electricals. I run the BD kit on my XRR, since it can charge a few weak batteries that do no good, is it possible to use this juice to install a plug that I can charge my smart phone from (using a usb converter cord, just like in a car...)

Thank you!
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:02 PM   #1094
crypto666
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Originally Posted by Buell78753 View Post
I'm very weak on electricals. I run the BD kit on my XRR, since it can charge a few weak batteries that do no good, is it possible to use this juice to install a plug that I can charge my smart phone from (using a usb converter cord, just like in a car...)

Thank you!

yes as long as its DC. Most of those DC-DC converters (phone charger) can handle a wide range of voltages.

The only issue I have had has been from a dirty dc circuit that is bleeding AC, it seems to be unique to my rec/reg, because its special.

If the phone charger doesn't get hot, you are fine. Having the battery (BD) in the circuit you should have 0 probs.

BTW, I am seeing these USB phone chargers at the gas stations for $5 now. So who cares if they burn up, carry two.
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:56 AM   #1095
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Originally Posted by sintax View Post
So I'm wiring up my 8" race light via one of the 125w legs of my BD rewound stator. I'm going to be using it in a floated AC loop. Can anyone give me a reason why I would not want to just wire it without a relay tied into the BD light switch? I cant think of a reason why I would not just keep it simple and wire it without all of that business.

If for whatever reason i did not want it on, i could always just unplug the light?

If i did unplug it would there be any damage done to the lighting coil since there would be no output for the power?


One last unrelated question, on the BD DC Rec/Reg, there are two yellow wires for input, do these have any sort of polarity? Can i just plug either green or white into either? (i know this is a lame question)
Hey Guys,

Sorry to be a pest, but does anyone have any comments on this one?
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