ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-21-2013, 08:36 PM   #1
elmontanero OP
Practicing...
 
elmontanero's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 1,761
R80g/s Cylinder stud striptease... Well... here we go.

STATUS:Finished up assembly, Started and ridden round. Second Valve adjustment done, carbs tuned and 20 miles ridden since rebuild. Happy so far. I think I finally made sense of the Harmonizer for an Airhead. Rode sweet!

Skip to post two for Striptease explanation... here's the wind up:
I've been pretty quiet on here for a while and while some folks would reckon that all was well in g/s land you'd be dead wrong. Had a little trouble here, little mess there with the bike back in September/October. Tuning and such - all squared away. Then, as indicated on the title - doing a valve adjustment and re-torque time for the head. Left cylinder top exhaust just wasn't having it. Kept spinning - no tightening - just turning.

History: heads have been off the bike previously for Pushrod seals, bike has in the neighborhood of 60k miles. De carboned the heads the last time till they looked like such:

After that all went together - ran like a Swiss Watch and even sounded like one too. Quiet and smooth. Ah Airhead nirvana....
Slight discoloration near the cylinder base, prehaps blow by from the joint... well that's odd. Forget it and move on, bike runs fine. Then the niggly things like pawl spring, carbs, coil, all that crap eventually needs love- back to well enough. Now this...
So I will admit that I put it aside and rode the Oilheads (gasp) but won't admit how long I didn't work on it. Went down tonight to finally deal with it... all the crap that has to be disconnected or removed done. Valve cover off, take off all the nuts and remove rockers.. yep, threads and then some of the stud showing only on that one ... "so off with the head", and cylinder comes off too. Looking like this now: Left side:
__________________
"And if we have food and covering, with these we shall be content."

elmontanero screwed with this post 07-16-2013 at 08:41 PM Reason: status update added at top of post....
elmontanero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2013, 08:41 PM   #2
elmontanero OP
Practicing...
 
elmontanero's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 1,761
And here's the STRIPtease part: that stud looks like such:
Not wiggly, not threading out nor taking the torque.

So I've read all the threads on Helicoil and timesert and utI'm gonna pass on getting into that argument. I will be going with a jig because I'm scared and sad....

What's the best way to get the stud out.. put back the parts and just keep turning till all comes free?

Lock two nuts together andspin it out?

Take the bike to the nearest qualified mechanic since I probably ham fisted it with a cheap torque wrench?

And to you folks who are holding your heads in shame.. this is my garage now..
Not the easiest location about a 40 yard walk to it.
__________________
"And if we have food and covering, with these we shall be content."
elmontanero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2013, 08:43 PM   #3
elmontanero OP
Practicing...
 
elmontanero's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 1,761
Some panic as to having heads rebuilt, new rings.. all the usual worry beads stuff. Should the cylinder bases and heads be machined flat?
Right side looks like this showing similar blowby do you think I gotta get in to that one too?

Summers here in a month and I'd rather not spend a bundle on bike unless needed... vacation is sacred to a teacher.
__________________
"And if we have food and covering, with these we shall be content."

elmontanero screwed with this post 05-21-2013 at 09:00 PM
elmontanero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2013, 09:05 PM   #4
hardwaregrrl
ignore list
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 7,247
Rent the jig.....

....from Jeff here. Used a similar one recently and it was a breeze. Remove the stud by locking 2 nuts together.

Here is my account
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2013, 09:20 PM   #5
elmontanero OP
Practicing...
 
elmontanero's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 1,761
Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
....from Jeff here. Used a similar one recently and it was a breeze. Remove the stud by locking 2 nuts together.

Here is my account
Thanks, off to some reading.

Edit.. do you recommend the HPD or the Northwoods then? seem like quite different inserts.. ut oh.. might be falling into that trap...
__________________
"And if we have food and covering, with these we shall be content."

elmontanero screwed with this post 05-21-2013 at 09:46 PM
elmontanero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2013, 05:50 AM   #6
hardwaregrrl
ignore list
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 7,247
Quote:
Originally Posted by elmontanero View Post
Thanks, off to some reading.

Edit.. do you recommend the HPD or the Northwoods then? seem like quite different inserts.. ut oh.. might be falling into that trap...
I like the HPD inserts much better.
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2013, 06:59 AM   #7
Dreossi
Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Oddometer: 31
Jig is a good idea... Easily made with some decent ply wood. Remember if its an upper stud there is an oil galley that supplies the rocker with oil. You must not plug it. I just finished the same repair on my gs, used a keen sert. I removed one of the pins, enlarged the grove on the outside of the sert, and lined that up with the oil galley. Only locktite behond the oil galley to ensure no plugging.

Other things that worked for me, grease in drill bit grooves to trap shavings. Only drill a wee bit, clean bit, re grease, drill again. Same with tap. Clean everything with brake cleaner, let dry, check oil galley is not plugged. check the inside of you newly tapped case for filinga with your fonger, there will be some bits there. I used high heat locktite, again, behind oil hole in crank case. I let mine cure for a coulple of days before assembly. Use a decent torque wrench, 25 lb max, etc.

I started bike up and ran it with rocker cover off it for a spell... Just to make sure oil galley not plugged. This also ensures any aluminum bits get flushed out of your engine...change oil and filter after a short idle.

With any luck you are away, good luck!
Dreossi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2013, 11:46 AM   #8
elmontanero OP
Practicing...
 
elmontanero's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 1,761
Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
I like the HPD inserts much better.
So... does anyone out there rent out their HPD jig?
__________________
"And if we have food and covering, with these we shall be content."
elmontanero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2013, 09:09 PM   #9
R-dubb
Dubbious Adventurer
 
R-dubb's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 4,795
That exhaust valve appears to be pretty seriously recessed. Have you considered having the heads done?
R-dubb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2013, 10:56 PM   #10
elmontanero OP
Practicing...
 
elmontanero's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 1,761
Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb View Post
That exhaust valve appears to be pretty seriously recessed. Have you considered having the heads done?
I have... thanks for the feedback. Money's not flowing, but if it has to be done.
__________________
"And if we have food and covering, with these we shall be content."
elmontanero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2013, 01:27 PM   #11
supershaft
because I can
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 8,836
When repairing the top threads, the work really needs to be vacuumed afterwards with a strong vacuum. Don't rely on just grease to catch all the metal shavings. Behind the stud holes is the oil galley that the installed stud itself blocks making the small hole above the stud flow oil. Don't leave a bunch of crap there. It will migrate all through your engine and ruin it. I have seen this happen a number of times. The left overs F up the oil pump and the rest is down hill from there. Good luck!
supershaft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2013, 02:17 PM   #12
elmontanero OP
Practicing...
 
elmontanero's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 1,761
Thanks SS... gonna be a while to get in there. With needing heads rebuild, I'll be having a bit of time. I'm going to pick up the gaskets etc from a shop I'm loyal to.

So determining when to change rings....?
__________________
"And if we have food and covering, with these we shall be content."
elmontanero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2013, 10:57 AM   #13
elmontanero OP
Practicing...
 
elmontanero's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 1,761
Not looking forward to pouring money into the heads... Anyone with used set or rebuilt set willing to sell? Spotted these on E- bay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-R80-Mat...c8d412&vxp=mtr

What say you good folks?
__________________
"And if we have food and covering, with these we shall be content."
elmontanero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2013, 11:22 AM   #14
SOLO LOBO
airhead or nothing
 
SOLO LOBO's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Shoreline, WA
Oddometer: 8,690
The heads on my G/S that had a supposed 21K miles had severely worn valve guides...

I think the valve kit from Motobins including 4 valves, springs, retainers and high-temp guides as about $200, and the head work about that again.

Don't know about fixing the recession as mine were fine
__________________
"punkrocks what it's all about" - J. Strummer



Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
SOLO LOBO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2013, 03:10 PM   #15
elmontanero OP
Practicing...
 
elmontanero's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 1,761
G,
BMW or Intervalves? I know there's a debate, Just wondering what you went with.
__________________
"And if we have food and covering, with these we shall be content."
elmontanero is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014