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Old 05-15-2013, 09:12 PM   #1
Bill Harris OP
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BMW Brake Lining Test

In '09 or so BMW Scotter (Scott Lydiard) and Mike Valenti did a comprehensive test of BMW /5 brake shoes:

http://www.bmwscotter.org/brake-test/

But I've never seen any final results of these tests, even at BMW Scotter's website.

Anyone know what became of these tests?

--Bill
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:07 AM   #2
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that's a LOT of work to go through without publishing results...
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:04 AM   #3
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By far the best shoes ever made were the ones from Eurotech Motorsport. Unfortunately they are out of business. The next best would be the EBC's.
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:04 PM   #4
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Long story short, one thing led to another and the test fizzled. Great idea, though.

The EBC linings have a good reputation, but "I've heard of" horror stories about the machining quality/tolerances on aftermarket shoes's backing plates. Any firsthand experience with EBC?

--Bill
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:26 PM   #5
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Getting ready to replace the brake shoes and this will include removing the brake cams and relubing the shafts, contact and pivot points. I usually use a moly-grease for this, butof late I've heard of folks using a 50:50 mixture of Moly-60 paste and an NLGI-2 grease

Any thoughts on this?

--Bill
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
Getting ready to replace the brake shoes and this will include removing the brake cams and relubing the shafts, contact and pivot points. I usually use a moly-grease for this, butof late I've heard of folks using a 50:50 mixture of Moly-60 paste and an NLGI-2 grease

Any thoughts on this?

--Bill
the cams to shoes --- little pressure spread over a huge bearing area, stays pretty dry, may get hot, gets freshened up every 15k or so. And It's aluminum running on steel. pretty non-critical. Ditto the Shoe pivots. I use whatever I'm using on the drive splines because it's in my hands when I'm there. These days that's the high pressure/temp anti-sieze I have been using combined with powdered graphite. The base of the anti-sieze takes a lot of heat and the filler (I think it's nickel, not aluminum) is an extreme high pressure lube, the graphite is immune to heat.

The cams shaft runs in 90 wt. Nothing to lube there. You might freshen up the o-rings and felt seal if it's real squashed out. And lube the cable barrel. Drain the rear end before pulling the cams shaft and clean all well so you don't pull gunk into the drive. Do not remove the stationary pivot from the rear drive.

The later drives have a tube all the way through for the cams shaft, the early ones do not (unbelievably)
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