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Old 05-28-2013, 09:29 PM   #16
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Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
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Give me your email address and I'll send you a pic of a stock airhead muffler cut open. Yours shouldn't be all that different and should give you an idea what you're dealing with.

As already mentioned, a loose baffle won't cause any engine damage. The worst of it is the rattling at idle.
Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:45 PM   #17
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Being stainless, I would have no fear of welding them. I personally would cut them around the weld, where the end cone is welded on, and wherever is farthest forward too. this way, when you weld it back together, you can make it look stock. again. Unless you have a lot of restriction, I would not worry about the two side being slightly different..
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:03 AM   #18
ME 109
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I have overlanders and the ends are different to the op's mufflers. Overlanders are OK. Twenty plus years old nuttin but music.
The op's mufflers are one of many design types and the baffle supports could be anywhere.
Two places to cut imo are the start of the cone taper at the rear, and the start of the taper at the front. That's how they were put together.
One of those fine (maybe 1mm) 4" cutting discs would be my choice. Cut very shallow so as not to damage anything unnecessarily.
Cutting the rear taper first might allow the cone and baffle to be extracted. Then the baffle supports may be able to be repaired and the whole shebang jammed back in there.

Then there's the welding (tig for me) then the grinding, then the sanding, then the fine emery tape, then the fine polishing.......
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:20 AM   #19
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
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That certainly is good life from a set of mufflers, he must have improved them since I had mine, circa 1978.

Edit: Another interesting page.
David Hunn:
R100GS Ray Peake special.

gsd4me screwed with this post 05-29-2013 at 04:59 AM
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:37 AM   #20
ME 109
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Originally Posted by gsd4me View Post
That certainly is good life from a set of mufflers, he must have improved them since I had mine, circa 1978.
Yeah I've put a coupla three dents in them trail riding tho'.
That would be a cool place to work David. All drawings on file to make to order. No doubt the popular stuff would have stocks.
Heaps of tig!
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Old 05-29-2013, 06:05 AM   #21
Stay Horizontal
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Location: Melbourne, Oz
Oddometer: 2,245
What makes them look like Overlanders is the lack of an external wled where the end cap is usually welded. The "end cap" on the OP's set seems a little long?

I've not seen other BMW mufflers made like the Overlanders, but that doesn't mean they don't exist of course.

Overlanders do have a nice growl to them.
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:57 AM   #22
Rob Farmer
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Chimney Sweep, Are you East or West mids?

Keihan are worth a call if you're in the west I know they didn't make yours but they do repair stainless silencers so it may be worth talking to them

B98 0RB

They may be Armours silencers. I haven't seen a set for years but may be worth a call

Though at these prices for stainless it may be easier to just buy a new pair

Exhaust pipe sets R50, R60, R69S, sold less headnuts, rings normally
supplied loose for welding, or can be welded by us if old head nuts sent
with order (New nuts R50/60 17.50 pr extra ready attached) 117.50 set
*Exhaust pipe set inc bal series 5/6/7 (38mm) 117.50 set
Two in one, series 5/6/7 Right or LH Fitting 117.50 set
*Exhaust pipe set, inc bal, R45, R65 117.50 set
Silencers series 5/6/7, R45, R65 (State exact model) 168.50 pr
Silencers R50/60, R69S 168.50 pr
40mm pipe sets and silencers for RS models also available, plus many others
back to 1936 PLEASE ENQUIRE.
*For systems with two balance pipes please add 12.00

You may struggle to contact them. They work old school hours

Retail Shop hours:-
Tuesday-Friday 9am-1pm, 2:15-5pm.
(October - January, closing times may be earlier).
Saturday - Monday: Closed

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