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Old 05-25-2013, 03:35 AM   #5656
BobPS
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Cilegon _ Labuhan

Lalu lintas sepanjang jalan ke Cilegon tidak terlalu ramai. Tidak sampai 30 menit, saya sudah sampai Cilegon. Hanya sedikit agak macet di satu pertigaan, kalau gak salah ingat pertigaan ke arah Carita dan ke arah Merak Krakatau Steel. Lepas dari situ jalan kembali lengang.

Lepas dari Cilegon , menelusuri jalan tepi pantai, perjalanan sangat mengasyikan. Jalan yang tidak terlalu ramai, tidak banyak kendaraan yang lewat dan permukaan jalan yang mulus… meskipun ada sedikit permukaan jalan yang berlubang … membuat perjalanan amat sangat mengasyikan. Saya bisa berjalan dengan kecepatan yang agak tinggi.

Setelah agak lama menelusuri pantai, saya cari tempat di untuk istirahat sejenak. Di satu tempat, masih di daerah Anyer, saya berhenti untuk minum dan meluruskan kaki sejenak. Saya tidak ingat apa nama tempatnya, tetapi untuk masuk ke tempat ini dikenakan biaya Rp 15.000,-


Setelah istirahat sekitar 10 menit dan menghabiskan setengah liter air minum, perjalanan saya lanjutkan.
Dari Anyer ke Labuhan, lalu lintas juga tidak ramai. Tidak banyak kendaraan yang lewat. Langit yang berawan, jalan yang bagus dan sepi membuat perjalanan makin mengasyikan. Sepanjang jalan, kaca helm saya buka supaya saya bisa menikmati angin yang segar.
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:24 AM   #5657
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Labuhan - Pelabuhan Ratu

Sewaktu merencanakan jalan-jalan ini, dalam bayangan saya jalan yang akan saya lalui adalah jalan yang bagus walapupun mungkin ada sedikit yang rusak. Ternyata saya salah total. Cilegon – Labuhan jalan bagus dan enak dilalui. Dari Labuhan, permukaan jalan mulai banyak yang rusak dan berlubang. Kondisi jalan yang tidak bagus ini berlangsung terus sampai Malingping dan Pelabuhan Ratu.

Saya tiba di di daerah Labuhan, sudah agak sore, mungkin sekitar jam 15.30. Di satu pertigaan, saya berhenti dan bertanya ke seseorang, kalau akan ke Pelabuhan Ratu lewat mana. Dia tunjukan arah dan dia bilang bahwa Pelabuhan Ratu masih jauh sekali, mungkin sekitar 8 jam perjalanan karena jalan dalam kondisi rusak. Saya ucapkan terima kasih dan saya lanjutkan perjalanan. Ternyata benar sekali apa yang bapak itu sampaikan.

Kondisi jalan sama sekali tidak bagus alias rusak berat. Sepanjang jalan, kondisi jalan rusak parah. Jalan berlubang di mana-mana. Saya sempat berhenti di satu warung untuk minum dan istirahat sejenak. Lumayan, minum 2 botol teh dan ngobrol dengan ibu pemilik warung dan anaknya. Saya tanya ke mereka berapa lama kira-kira untuk sampai Pelabuhan Ratu. Mereka bilang lebih dari 4 jam, jalan dalam kondisi rusak parah dan ada satu jembatan yang rusak. Setelah ngobrol-ngobrol dengan mereka, perjalanan saya lanjutkan.

Saya sampai daerah yang bernama Kerta sudah sangat sore, sekitar pukul 6 sore. Di sana saya berhenti sebentar di satu SPBU untuk mengisi bensin. Setelah isi bensin, saya tidak langsung melanjutkan perjalanan, tetapi saya isitirahat sekitar 10 menit di sana untuk meluruskan kaki dan minum.




Sambil istirahat say a menelepon satu resort di daerah Pelabuhan Ratu untuk pesan kamar. Staf resort bertanya kepada saya jam berapa saya akan tiba. Dengan yakin saya bilang saya akan sampai di sana sekitar jam 9 malam. Ternyata saya salah.

Dari Kerta, perjalanan saya lanjutkan. Kali ini, karena kondisi sudah gelap dan kondisi jalan yang ancur lebur, saya teruskan perjalanan dengan ekstra hati-hati. Lepas dari Kerta, sampailah saya di daerah Malingping. Di sini saya salah belok. Seharusnya saya belok kanan ke arah Bayah dan kemudian akan sampai di daerah pantai dan menelusuri jalan di tepi pantai ke arah Pelabuhan Ratu. Saya salah belok, alih-alih belok kanan, saya belok ke kiri.

Salah belok ini membuat perjalanan saya menjadi ekstra panjang dan harus melewati daerah Cibeber, Cikotok dan seterusnya, yang kondisi jalannya amat sangat rusak. Di daerah perbukitan ini, saya hanya bisa merayap di kecepatan antara 10 km-25 km per jam. Jalan hancur, naik turun bukit, berkelok-kelok, gelap gulita, cahaya hanya dari lampu motor saya. Benar-benar pengalaman yang luar biasa.

Satu-satunya kekhawatiran saya adalah tanah longsor, karena beberapa kali saya temui longsoran tanah menutupi jalan. Saya pikir, kalau apes dan kena longsor di sini, tidak akan ada orang yang tahu sampai besok pagi.
Setelah perjalanan yang terasa lama sekali, sampailah saya di jalan raya yang menuju Pelabuhan Ratu. Ternyata resort yang saya tuju letaknya di sebelah Barat Pelabuhan Ratu di jalan raya Cisolok. Saya tanya ke penduduk sekitar di mana letak resort tersebut. Mereka bilang sekitar 10 km ke arah Barat. Saya ikuti petunjuk mereka dan setelah tiga kali bertanya, sampailah saya di resort tersebut.

Saya check-in dan parkir motor saya ke depan kamar, saat itu sudah lewat jam 11 malam. Restoran sudah tutup, bahkan air minum pun tidak ada di dalam kamar. Untungnya di jalan saya sempat membeli sebotol air, beberapa batang Sncikers, sebatang Silver Queen dan sebungkus roti sobek Sari Roti. Saya minta tolong staf resport untuk membelikan Coca-cola.
Setelah 2 botol coca cola tiba, saya mandi, mencuci kaos dan mulai makan malam dengan menu roti sobek, snicker dan coca cola. Selesai makan malam, saya telpon isteri dan anak. Ngobrol sekitar 10 menit setelah itu saya tidur. Cukup sulit untuk tidur dan sepanjang malam mimpi saya adalah jalan rusak dan jalan berlobang.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:31 AM   #5658
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Pelabuhan Ratu – Jakarta

Sebelum tidur alarm saya setel untuk bunyi jam 8.00, karena restauran baru buka jam 8.00 pagi dan saya pikir supaya cukup tidur tujuh jam dari jam 00.30 sampai jam 8.00 … tapi baru jam 7.00 pagi saya sudah terbangun. Setelah mandi saya ke depan kamar untuk periksa motor. Cek angin ban, cek ada tidak baut-mur yang kendor. Alhamdulillah semua beres.

Dari depan kamar, saya lihat sudah ada aktifitas di restoran. Saya pikir, sekarang saja lah sarapan, siapa tahu sudah bisa pesan. Saya masuk ke kamar dan pakai sepatu boots saya, kemudian jalan ke restoran, menelusuri deretan kamar hotel dan pinggir kolam renang yang masih sepi. Satu barang yang lupa saya bawa adalah sandal … jadi terpaksalah saya pakai sepatu boots. Untung saya tidak punya rencana jala-jalan ke pantai jadi tidak perlu sandal.

Di restoran saya pesan sarapan, seperti sarapan saya setiap hari di rumah: empat telur mata sapi dan kopi. Saya pikir kopi yang disajikan hanya satu cangkir, ternyata kopi yang datang satu teko … hehehe lumayan banyak.



Sambil sarapan saya meminta tagihan kamar karena rencananya saya akan check out jam 9.00 pagi dan langsung pulang. Saat itu saya diberitahu bahwa resort ini (Ocean Queen Resort) hanya menerima pembayaran tunai alias cash dan tidak terima debit card atau kartu kredit. Terpaksa saya harus ke ATM dulu yang letaknya sekitar 2 km dari resort. Saya minta salah satu staf resort untuk mengantar saya ke atm. Berangkatlah kami menaiki motor milik staf tesebut.

Ternyata perjalanan ke ATM berlangsung cukup lama. Jarak ke ATM hanya 2 km, tetapi butuh 15 menit untuk satu jalan. Penyebabnya, hari itu akan dilangsungkan Pemilihan Kepala Desa Cisolok dan karena ada isyu akan terjadi keributan antar pendukung calon Kades, polisi menurunkan 3 truk Brimob. Karena kondisi jalan yang rusak sangat parah dan sempit, lalu lintas jadi macet. Total waktu yang dibutuhkan untuk pulang pergi ke ATM hampir 30 menit.

Sesampai kembali di resort, saya bayar tagihan dan mulai berkemas. Selesai berkemas saya berangkat pulang. Dari rencana awal berangkat jam 9.00 pagi, baru jam 10.15 saya meninggalkan resort.

Setelah mengisi bensin di satu SPBU tidak jauh dari resort, saya lanjutkan perjalanan dengan santai sambil melihat-lihat pemandangan pantai di sebalah kanan. Tidak lama berjalan, sampailah saya di depan hotel Samudera Beach, kalau gak salah namanya menjadi Inna Samudera Beach… menyesal juga saya tidak nginap di hotel ini saja. Pasti lebih bagus daripada resort tempat saya menginap. Lain kali, saya kan nginap di hotel ini saja.

Lewat Samudera Beach, saya cari tempat di tepi jalan untuk foto sebentar. Saya membawa kamera saku tapi sangat malas untuk berhenti dan motret. Sepanjang perjalanan saya hanya ambil beberapa foto, tidak lebih dari 6 foto.





Selesai motret, saya lanjutkan perjalan ke arah Cibadak. Setelah tanya-tanya arah supaya tidak tersesat, sampailah saya di daerah yang menuju Cibadak. Sewaktu bertanya ke satu bapak, sang bapak mengingatkan saya untuk berhati-hati karena jalannya naik turun dan ternyata bapak itu benar.

Jalannya, rute tersebut ternyata naik turun dan berkelak-kelok tidak ada habisnya. Luar biasa dan sangat mengasyikan. Sepanjang jalan saya tidak henti-hentinya berteriak kegirangan… mungkin kalau ada orang yang mendengar, dia akan menganggap saya gila hehehe. Tapi jalannya memang sangat mengasyikan.

Saya kerap pergi ke Jonggol untuk menikmati tikungan di Jonggol. Biasanya saya ke Cianjur untuk makan siang, lewat Jonggol dan pulangnya lewat Jonggol juga. Tikungan-tikungan di Jonggol sangat mengasyikan... tetapi ternyata tikungan dan jalan di Cibadak ini, amat jauh lebih mengasyikan daripada Jonggol atau Padarincang di daerah Serang. Kondisi jalannya bagus, hanya ada sedikit permukaan jalan yang agak rusak.




Rute ini bisa dibilang the highlight of my trip. Saya berencana untuk jalan lagi ke Cibadak.

Lepas dari Cibadak, memasuki jalan raya Sukabumi-Bogor saya mampir ke satu restoran di tepi jalan untuk makan siang. Saya tidak tahu bagaimana kondisi lalu lintas di Bogor sampai Jakarta. Saya khawatir kena macet dan saya pikir daripada terjebak macet dalam keadaan lapar, lebih baik makan dulu.

Saya tanya menu apa yang cepat dihidangkan. Mereka bilang nasi timbel. Menu makan siang saya nasi timbel lengkap: ayam goreng, ikan asin, tahu tempe, sayur asem dan lalap …. ditambah: secangkir kopi, satu gelas es teh manis dan es kelapa muda. Nikmat sekali.



Selesai makan, saya istirahat sejenak dan jam 13.00 kurang sedikit saya melanjutkan perjalanan.

Dari sini sampai Bogor, perjalanan berlangsung aman dan santai. Kondisi jalan lumayan bagus, meskipun cukup banyak lubang di sana-sini. Ada beberapa titik yang macet dan yang paling parah di Rancamaya, karena permukaan jalan sedang dibeton.

Lepas dari Rancamaya, memasuki Tajur, Bogor terus ke Jakarta, perjalanan berlangsung lancar. Saya terkejut juga karena kondisi jalan Raya Bogor sangat bagus. Jalannya lebar, mulus dan lancar, tidak ada macet. Kondisi bagus mulus ini berlanjut sampai daerah perempatan Depok – tol Cijago. Sempat tersendat sebentar di sana, kemudian jalan kembali lancar. Jalan kembali macet di daerah Cijantung sampai Kramat Jati dan PGC... ya memasukiJakarta lah. Lepas dari situ, jalan lancar dan saya tiba di rumah sekitar jam 16.00, pas untuk siap-siap menghadiri resepsi perkawinan teman.


Akhirul kata …Perjalanan mengelilingi Banten ini sangat mengasyikan.

Meskipun saya beberapa kali salah jalan, yang membuat perjalanan menjadi jauh lebih lama daripada yang saya perkirakan … kondisi jalan yang amat rusak di luar dugaan saya… nyasar dan tidak tahu ada di mana … tidak tahu kemana harus menuju, yang saya tahu hanya saya harus menuju ke depan, maju teruus… saya sangat menikmati perjalanan ini. Semuanya menjadi bagian dari asyiknya ngelayap pakai motor.

Insya Allah bulan Juni saya akan jalan lagi.. ngelayap pakai motor. Keliling sebagian Jawa Barat. Rute yang saya rencanakan dari Jakarta-Subang-Sumedang ke Tasikmalaya, nginap di Tasik satu malam ... masih cari-cari penginapan/hotel di Tasik...kalau ada yang bisa kasih rekomendasi hotel/losmen yang bagus, saya tunggu rekomendasinya... kemudian esok paginya pulang ke Jakarta lewat Garut-Bandung-Cimahi-Joggol.

Terima kasih sudah mau meluangkan waktu membaca cerita ini.

BobPS screwed with this post 05-29-2013 at 06:23 AM
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:01 PM   #5659
terpaksangaskus
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Hallo.. anyone know how to menyebrang dengan motor dari jawa (semarang atau surabaya) ke pulau sulawesi (tangah atau langsung ke uatara) lantas lanjut dari sulawesi ke pulau bacan halmahera ?

aku butuh bantuan info lengkap ttg budget dan waktu penyebrangan, info dari PELNI kurang jelas..

kalau ada cara ada yang tau (sukur pernah) cara yang sangat murah nyebrangin motor dan orangnya ke sulawesi terimakasih banyak yaa
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Old 05-30-2013, 06:52 PM   #5660
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Untuk Jawa-Sulawesi coba cek atau cari informasi dari agen tiket kapal laut, jangan langsung ke Pelni. Agen mungkin juga bisa membantu pengiriman motor.

Ini ada satu yg kebetulan saya peroleh,tidak tahu seberapa akurat informasi mereka, tapi lumayan sebagai info awal.
http://tiketkapallaut.blogspot.com/2...a-makasar.html

Kalau menurut web mereka, harga tiket kapal utk dewasa antara Rp 200 rb ekonomi sampai Rp 800 rb kelas 1.

Untuk Sulawesi - Halmahera, coba cek ke webnya PT ASDP Indonesia Ferry, http://www.indonesiaferry.co.id Saya lihat ada rute Bitung Ternate.
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:11 AM   #5661
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Big bikes suck in Indonesia

Worked last Saturday (shame on me). About 4pm I hopped on the Yamaha Scorpio and decided to head out for a bit of a ride.

Sidebar: The Scorpio is a cheap cheap cheap 225cc commuter bike with standard suspension and cast 18" wheels. In most western media and forums it is disparaged as a cheap (but not good) first bike or a cheap (but not good) commuter for those who don't want to ride scooters.

So headed north from Balikpapan.

Reality no.1; until you get out of town, the traffic is horrendous and unless you are on a small bike / scooter the overtaking opportunities are limited.

About 40 mins out of Balikpapan, the traffic disappears and the towns become further apart. The roads don't get any better, people still walk out in front of you, locals on scooters and bikes (invariably without helmets) still just pull out. Between Kijangs (the local Toyota people-mover driven with abandon and without common sense) attacking from the rear and overladen lorries struggling up hill at 20km/hr (20 km/jam in local parlance) then a ride even on "good" roads in exciting.

As the sun fell lower, and the shadows got longer, the logic to turn around increased, but the urge to do so decreased. I passed the point of my geographical knowledge (without a map hahaha) and continued on. Across small and large rivers with fishing boats galore. Through small towns where people stared (because of my sexy Scorpio, or the crisp crackle of the exhaust, or because of the big white guy with both beneath him, i could not tell).

Sidebar: I ditched the massive standard exhaust system with the 15mm exhaust exit for effectively an open sports pipe exhaust 40mm dia. Oh, the pipe and fitting, Rp 350,000 or USD 37. Actually too loud for my sensitive ears, but apparently loud pipes save lives… Actually, total defensive riding in Indonesia will minimise risk, but not save lives. Loud pipes just draws attention to the big white guy…

So I travelled too far north. I got lost. I entered a small town (not located on google maps) and slowly weaved my way through a Saturday night market blocking the entire road with inqisitive stares all round, (nb: i was on the main road to the Capital of the province…).

Reality No. 2… Out of town, I was constantly dodging potholes. Not those small pathetic excuses for potholes in Australia. I am talking 3 - 6ft dia and 18 in - 2 ft deep. Real drop in and "lose your smile" potholes.

Sidebar: I am still awaiting my gear from home so I am riding in denim jeans, short sleeve polo shirt and $14 open face helmet. Yes yes yes, I know…


As I got closer to Samarinda (unbeknownst to me, I was lost) I was dodging a beautiful electrical storm. Coming into Samarinda (from bumf*ck nowhere) the road was a series of prelaid concrete pavement (typically 2 - 5 km in length with 300 - 600mm earthen ramps up to the block of concrete sticking out of nowhere - i really wish I took my camera for this) in between dirt / mud roads.

Reality No.3 - Alerts to road works are not world class. I ended up travelling 500m down the wrong side of a dual lane highway. Dodging the 2nd semi alerted me to my stupidity.

Coming into Samarinda, I dodged the tropical rainstorm but the roads did not. There were kilometres and kilometres of mud, and we had to dodge bogged semi-trailers (lorries) and cars and pick-ups that were not coping at all. My Rossi boots are screwed with mud and my jeans were likewise caked.

Reality No.4, shabby roads in the tropics = mud mud mud...

By the time I got to a hotel in Samarinda it was 9:15pm. As I walked into the cheapest, big, hotel I could find the smirk was classic. "Sorry sir, we are out of standard rooms; only Rp 1,350,000 suites available" ($135). This is a hotel I am pretty sure I will pay $45 next week on business. hahaha. nope.

Reality no.5, walking up to a hotel for a room is horrendous. An expat doing it in SE Asia is just asking to be gouged. If I could have found an internet cafe, I would have booked something...

So I decide to head for the 110km ride back to Balikpapan. Winding road. slow trucks in front. Maniacal cars behind. Fortunately the road was in better condition than I anticipated. Total time from Samarinda City Centre to Balikpapan City Centre was just shy of 3 hours (12:17am back to home).

Reality No. 6, that's 3 hours for 110km… And you need that power for what?

But here is my point to shying away from big bikes.

1. I hit 90km/hr once, but most of the time i was riding between 50 and 70 km/h. even my 80km/hr cruising speed wasn't comfortable and I dropped back.

2. Roads, other road users, pot holes and the mud, mean that you won't average much higher, even with the daring of Evil Kniieval.

3. The Scorpio (read side bar for disparaging remarks) on shabby broken road is comparable (hmmm) in utility to my DR650 back home. Given an appropriate speed the ground clearance is sufficient and the stability is awesome. On road tyres, the work through the mud was superior to comparable experience on my DR650 or BMW GS650.

4. Everywhere I went there was some helmet-less local on a scooter or underbone whipping my arse. Speed on Indonesian roads is (in decreasing order) a function of; 1. Disregard for self preservation, 2. lightness of bike, 3. skill of rider, 4. power of bike.

5. Large fuel tanks not required, if you can buy the fuel in glass bottles from homes along the way (I think a GS needs premium, so bad luck GS riders)… then you are OK. Some of the best conversations happen when buying fuel from roadside bottles…

Conclusion…

1. I am about to get punished, i am ready. No one disparages the bigger is better mantra (anything under 100 HP is a ladies bike)!

2. I own an F800GS at home (Sydney) and have owned a stream of dual sports (DR650 is favourite). Here in Kalimantan, I would buy a KLX250, but the Scorpio is a reasonable alternative (more below). My DR6650 would be OK. The F800GS a PITA. R1200GS a lot of weight to pick up...

3. The Scorpio is as stable off road and in mud as the DR650. 18" wheels are not to be underestimated (and neither is weight - this is easier to ride on dirt than my 220kg 17" wheel Bandit - who'd have thought…)

4. Given the road conditions, the mud, the fuel supply, the pot holes and the traffic, anyone on an R1200GS or KTM Adventure 990 (or any dual sport > 650) would have a miserable time by comparison. If fact, I believe that in the conditions here in East Kalimantan, a 650 would be overkill (not good at a cruising speed is about 70km/hr). Anything bigger, PITA.

5. Why not a KLX250? Well, KLX150's are cheap (but not great for hauling 105kg riders). KLX250's are $7,700 and have a 4 month waiting list. I figured I could buy a scorpio, trash the thing, have a good time and still go everywhere I wanted to go…

I intend to do more trips and actually take some pics, as soon as my gear arrives and I can extract my a**hole boss from my a**hole ("you should be doing 6.5 days plus" hahahahahaha) and do some rides I want.

In my final defence… I have read some overland stories from guys on Honda 110 step thru's. I was cynical. But now, being here in Borneo, I know that the sensible SE Asian overland option is to buy the smallest local bike you can buy, fill it with fuel out of glass bottles beside the road and get the local workshops to fix. Importing a bike is hard work. Riding a big bike is harder work.

I actually laugh when I see an expat on a harley, or a z1000 or a BMW. It is truly is style over substance… and not the least bit satisfying as a rider given the road conditions and other road users.

I am changed. Less is more. My ultimate overland ride involves local bikes that can be repaired by local mechanics, tyres from local workshops and replaced with simlarly cheap local bikes.
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:41 AM   #5662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by period3 View Post
Worked last Saturday (shame on me). About 4pm I hopped on the Yamaha Scorpio and decided to head out for a bit of a ride.

Sidebar: The Scorpio is a cheap cheap cheap 225cc commuter bike with standard suspension and cast 18" wheels. In most western media and forums it is disparaged as a cheap (but not good) first bike or a cheap (but not good) commuter for those who don't want to ride scooters.

So headed north from Balikpapan.

Reality no.1; until you get out of town, the traffic is horrendous and unless you are on a small bike / scooter the overtaking opportunities are limited.

About 40 mins out of Balikpapan, the traffic disappears and the towns become further apart. The roads don't get any better, people still walk out in front of you, locals on scooters and bikes (invariably without helmets) still just pull out. Between Kijangs (the local Toyota people-mover driven with abandon and without common sense) attacking from the rear and overladen lorries struggling up hill at 20km/hr (20 km/jam in local parlance) then a ride even on "good" roads in exciting.

As the sun fell lower, and the shadows got longer, the logic to turn around increased, but the urge to do so decreased. I passed the point of my geographical knowledge (without a map hahaha) and continued on. Across small and large rivers with fishing boats galore. Through small towns where people stared (because of my sexy Scorpio, or the crisp crackle of the exhaust, or because of the big white guy with both beneath him, i could not tell).

Sidebar: I ditched the massive standard exhaust system with the 15mm exhaust exit for effectively an open sports pipe exhaust 40mm dia. Oh, the pipe and fitting, Rp 350,000 or USD 37. Actually too loud for my sensitive ears, but apparently loud pipes save lives… Actually, total defensive riding in Indonesia will minimise risk, but not save lives. Loud pipes just draws attention to the big white guy…

So I travelled too far north. I got lost. I entered a small town (not located on google maps) and slowly weaved my way through a Saturday night market blocking the entire road with inqisitive stares all round, (nb: i was on the main road to the Capital of the province…).

Reality No. 2… Out of town, I was constantly dodging potholes. Not those small pathetic excuses for potholes in Australia. I am talking 3 - 6ft dia and 18 in - 2 ft deep. Real drop in and "lose your smile" potholes.

Sidebar: I am still awaiting my gear from home so I am riding in denim jeans, short sleeve polo shirt and $14 open face helmet. Yes yes yes, I know…


As I got closer to Samarinda (unbeknownst to me, I was lost) I was dodging a beautiful electrical storm. Coming into Samarinda (from bumf*ck nowhere) the road was a series of prelaid concrete pavement (typically 2 - 5 km in length with 300 - 600mm earthen ramps up to the block of concrete sticking out of nowhere - i really wish I took my camera for this) in between dirt / mud roads.

Reality No.3 - Alerts to road works are not world class. I ended up travelling 500m down the wrong side of a dual lane highway. Dodging the 2nd semi alerted me to my stupidity.

Coming into Samarinda, I dodged the tropical rainstorm but the roads did not. There were kilometres and kilometres of mud, and we had to dodge bogged semi-trailers (lorries) and cars and pick-ups that were not coping at all. My Rossi boots are screwed with mud and my jeans were likewise caked.

Reality No.4, shabby roads in the tropics = mud mud mud...

By the time I got to a hotel in Samarinda it was 9:15pm. As I walked into the cheapest, big, hotel I could find the smirk was classic. "Sorry sir, we are out of standard rooms; only Rp 1,350,000 suites available" ($135). This is a hotel I am pretty sure I will pay $45 next week on business. hahaha. nope.

Reality no.5, walking up to a hotel for a room is horrendous. An expat doing it in SE Asia is just asking to be gouged. If I could have found an internet cafe, I would have booked something...

So I decide to head for the 110km ride back to Balikpapan. Winding road. slow trucks in front. Maniacal cars behind. Fortunately the road was in better condition than I anticipated. Total time from Samarinda City Centre to Balikpapan City Centre was just shy of 3 hours (12:17am back to home).

Reality No. 6, that's 3 hours for 110km… And you need that power for what?

But here is my point to shying away from big bikes.

1. I hit 90km/hr once, but most of the time i was riding between 50 and 70 km/h. even my 80km/hr cruising speed wasn't comfortable and I dropped back.

2. Roads, other road users, pot holes and the mud, mean that you won't average much higher, even with the daring of Evil Kniieval.

3. The Scorpio (read side bar for disparaging remarks) on shabby broken road is comparable (hmmm) in utility to my DR650 back home. Given an appropriate speed the ground clearance is sufficient and the stability is awesome. On road tyres, the work through the mud was superior to comparable experience on my DR650 or BMW GS650.

4. Everywhere I went there was some helmet-less local on a scooter or underbone whipping my arse. Speed on Indonesian roads is (in decreasing order) a function of; 1. Disregard for self preservation, 2. lightness of bike, 3. skill of rider, 4. power of bike.

5. Large fuel tanks not required, if you can buy the fuel in glass bottles from homes along the way (I think a GS needs premium, so bad luck GS riders)… then you are OK. Some of the best conversations happen when buying fuel from roadside bottles…

Conclusion…

1. I am about to get punished, i am ready. No one disparages the bigger is better mantra (anything under 100 HP is a ladies bike)!

2. I own an F800GS at home (Sydney) and have owned a stream of dual sports (DR650 is favourite). Here in Kalimantan, I would buy a KLX250, but the Scorpio is a reasonable alternative (more below). My DR6650 would be OK. The F800GS a PITA. R1200GS a lot of weight to pick up...

3. The Scorpio is as stable off road and in mud as the DR650. 18" wheels are not to be underestimated (and neither is weight - this is easier to ride on dirt than my 220kg 17" wheel Bandit - who'd have thought…)

4. Given the road conditions, the mud, the fuel supply, the pot holes and the traffic, anyone on an R1200GS or KTM Adventure 990 (or any dual sport > 650) would have a miserable time by comparison. If fact, I believe that in the conditions here in East Kalimantan, a 650 would be overkill (not good at a cruising speed is about 70km/hr). Anything bigger, PITA.

5. Why not a KLX250? Well, KLX150's are cheap (but not great for hauling 105kg riders). KLX250's are $7,700 and have a 4 month waiting list. I figured I could buy a scorpio, trash the thing, have a good time and still go everywhere I wanted to go…

I intend to do more trips and actually take some pics, as soon as my gear arrives and I can extract my a**hole boss from my a**hole ("you should be doing 6.5 days plus" hahahahahaha) and do some rides I want.

In my final defence… I have read some overland stories from guys on Honda 110 step thru's. I was cynical. But now, being here in Borneo, I know that the sensible SE Asian overland option is to buy the smallest local bike you can buy, fill it with fuel out of glass bottles beside the road and get the local workshops to fix. Importing a bike is hard work. Riding a big bike is harder work.

I actually laugh when I see an expat on a harley, or a z1000 or a BMW. It is truly is style over substance… and not the least bit satisfying as a rider given the road conditions and other road users.

I am changed. Less is more. My ultimate overland ride involves local bikes that can be repaired by local mechanics, tyres from local workshops and replaced with simlarly cheap local bikes.
welcome to the land where a mans penis isnt measured by the size of the engine between his legs. i spent 10 months in indonesia on a DR650 and the number of times i wish i had a 125cc honda GL max was ridiculous. wet through 3 clutches dragging its heavy arse through the worst roads while small bikes zipped and bounced their way past me. no to mention taking the DR to a suzuki shop and no one has even heard of a DR650 there so better bring your own tools haha.

if your staying in indonesia for a long time get out to flores. the main road was in pretty good condition when i passed through and there is only one straight section on the whole island. think looking at straight line distances between places on the GPS being 30km while the road distance is 90km and the traffic there is 1/10th of java.
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:12 AM   #5663
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Funny story. This story and other foreigners' experiences here makes me wonder if it's really hard and dangerous to ride here. I wouldn't know ... cause I'm Indonesian and I've been riding /commute on my bike for 11 years now, so I'm used to the conditions and see things differently, I see it as normal. It's good to know what foreigner thinks or see it from a foreigner's perspective, though.

Nah... you don't need a big bike. I think nobody needs a big bike... Want, yes ... but need, no. Years ago, myself and three good friends of mine travelled around West Java, on a Honda Astrea 800 and a Suzuki, both were small 80 cc bikes. Two up on each bike, small bikes and we had a great time.

I've never been to East Kalimantan I didn't know that the road in East Kalimantan is bad, but I often go to South Kalimantan. Whenever I'm in a car on the way to Sungai Danau or Batu Licin from Banjarmasin, I always wish I was on a bike. The road is good, there are pot holes every here and there.. but not many, and not as bad as the one you encountered... and traffic is not busy. We can drive quite fast there.

Riding fast... well, posted speed limit here is usually 60-80 kph (except in toll road which is 100 kph and motorcycles are not allowed in toll road) but I don't think a lot of people ride at 100 kph here.

Give yourself some time. I bet in a month or two you will ride like the locals. But I would suggest you ride every day or as often as you can, so that you are familiar with the traffic condition and get use to how people ride or drive there.

And get a Honda "bebek" or Yamaha "bebek", or even a matic scooter ... you might enjoy it more than your scorpio.
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:09 AM   #5664
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thought you guys might be interested in these. theres a lot of your beautiful country in here ;)


<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/57304411" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/57304411">The first year Part 1</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user8273843">Rob Armstrong</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/58947154" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/58947154">The first year part 2</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user8273843">Rob Armstrong</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/59834233" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/59834233">The first year Part 3</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user8273843">Rob Armstrong</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:29 AM   #5665
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blackcap, your links don't work. Had to search vimeo for Rob Armstrong.

Here's the link to the video: http://vimeo.com/57304411 hope it works.

I like the video Do you have a ride report somewhere? I'd love to read it if you do.

I've never ventured off road and I plan to fix that. The only "off road" I had was a month ago when I made a wrong turn and had to rode through about 100 km of the worst road I've ever been on ... and to make it more interesting I had to do it at night on my Monster.
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:48 AM   #5666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobPS View Post
blackcap, your links don't work. Had to search vimeo for Rob Armstrong.

Here's the link to the video: http://vimeo.com/57304411 hope it works.

I like the video Do you have a ride report somewhere? I'd love to read it if you do.

I've never ventured off road and I plan to fix that. The only "off road" I had was a month ago when I made a wrong turn and had to rode through about 100 km of the worst road I've ever been on ... and to make it more interesting I had to do it at night on my Monster.
i cant work out the embed links so here are other links

https://vimeo.com/57304411

https://vimeo.com/58947154

https://vimeo.com/59834233

and one for anyone in jogja

https://vimeo.com/52336465

no ride report unfortunately. no time to sit in front of the computer for long enough to get one together. theres so much off roading i wanted to do in kal tim but ran out of visa time. we might be doing something special up near nunakan towards the end of the year though and may want to involve some of the bike communities from around that way if anyone is interested. ill post more when i know more
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:46 PM   #5667
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Thanks for the last one. I was born in Yogya and still go there at least once a year.

If you go to Yogya and need a place to stay I can recommend a good guest house, owned and runs by a friend of mine, Riza. I wish I could offer my place, but I don't have a house there. The guest house is motorcycle friendly cause he also loves motorcycle. And he knows a very good bike mechanic there who works on BMWs but can work on any bike.

Metro Guest house Jalan Sisingamangaraja 21a, Karangkajen, Yogya.

Years ago, I think it was 2004, my Sportster had a clutch problem on the way to Yogya. When I got there my friend hooked me up with the mechanic who then fixed my bike. The guy refused to take any kind of payment but the cost of the clutch bearing that replaced the busted one.
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:34 AM   #5668
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Bob thanks for the yoga number and I appreciated the balik papan story... Was there a few months ago.
Just came from Sumba to bandung.... I think Sumba is the most primitive íve ridden in.

It's great to enjoy through small bikes and whatever you at riding.
Personally I think a small bike but with long suspension and good lighting makes riding safer and more comfortable.

I've got a Klx 250/351 with some power house lighting. I noticed you came back at night...
Good lights help you see the potholes sooner and good long suspension means its not as imperative to swerve and dodge them. I'm big on Good mirrors too
the Klx 150 mirrors are excellent.

Enjoy Balik Papan

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Old 07-02-2013, 10:44 PM   #5669
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Ricky, how do you like the KLX250? How do you like it for long ride, ride that's longer than 5 hours?

I've been thinking about getting a second bike, a DS bike that's comfortable for long ride and can do two-up easily. Bikes that on my list are Sertao, TR650 and 800GS. I just added KLX 250 to the list. It looks like it can be a fine and fun bike to ride, but I've no idea if it's comfortable in long ride or how it is when doing two-up ride.
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Old 07-03-2013, 04:28 PM   #5670
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Klx250

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobPS View Post
Ricky, how do you like the KLX250? How do you like it for long ride, ride that's longer than 5 hours?

I've been thinking about getting a second bike, a DS bike that's comfortable for long ride and can do two-up easily. Bikes that on my list are Sertao, TR650 and 800GS. I just added KLX 250 to the list. It looks like it can be a fine and fun bike to ride, but I've no idea if it's comfortable in long ride or how it is when doing two-up ride.
As it happened, a 2011 KLX250 came my way courtesy of an Aussie shipping back home. That removed the argument about waiting times and price. It's a great bike for here in Kalimantan. I've removed the nobbies for some dual sport more friendly road rubber (I won't be doing single track).

There's only two downsides to the KLX250 (which might affect some of your other choices). 1. Small tank and only takes Pertemax, so topping up by roadside bottles along the way is for emergency only, gotta learn to queue. 2. Seat is a plank for the 5 hours you talk of.

I'm partially resolving the fuel issue with a larger tank from the USA (customs permitting) and the seat can be resolved by your local seat guy padding it out and reupholstering it. I did that on the cheap for my DR650 back home and could easily do 10 hour days in the saddle.

Two up? Probably not so great.

F800 is on your list, but for weight, cost and frankly dubious utility value, I'd recommend the smaller bike. It'll be just as fast point to point (or faster), easier and more fun. It'll be a BIG bike two up in the traffic.

Just my Rp2,000 worth...
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