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Old 06-07-2013, 12:10 PM   #1261
vspeed
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I've used Imperial wax, Lee case lube, mink oil, PAM cooking spray, Cabela's case lube (Cabela's is my favorite but seems to be unavailable now), and probably a few others. They all worked pretty well. My local hardware store had only the One shot in stock recently so I thought I'd give it a try. Live and learn I guess.
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:42 PM   #1262
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Originally Posted by vspeed View Post
On another note, I've been trying a different type of case lube lately. It's the non-aerosol version of Hornady One Shot. I've had good luck with a lot of Hornady products, but this case lube is not one of them. (This is not the first time this has happened to me with this lube).


That looks like "One Shot Stuck".... I keep One Shot around for a light dusting of pistol cases for my progressive machines. It is the most effective product that I have found for ruining rifle dies though.....
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:29 PM   #1263
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One Shot Case Lube

I used quite a bit of the original 'One Shot' back in the 80's and early 90's. It always worked OK for me but somewhere along the way I tried Imperial Wax and never looked back.
The 'old' One Shot was sprayed on and dried to a whitish coating (as I recall you were supposed to wait for it to dry, did not take long) and much of that came off in the sizing process. Is this the same stuff?
The die should not be ruined. There are stuck case removal kits. The only one I ever removed was for a friend, I 'made' my own kit. You need to get the decapper well up away from the base of the case (but don't jam it into the neck-leave some space there), drill and tap the case through the primer pocket for something like a 12-24 Allen head cap screw. I used the base of an old Lee Loader that fit but you could stack up washers that are just larger in diameter than the case but rest on the die, you need a couple more than enough to equal the exposed height of the die, then you need one or two that are sized to match the screw. put the knurled end of the die into a vice (protect it with leather, lead, etc.) and turn the screw into the tapped hole. It usually doesn't take much for the case to come free, some penetrating oil would probably not hurt the process.
Good luck!


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Old 06-07-2013, 08:57 PM   #1264
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That case trimmer looks awesome! I also just have the Lee trimmer since the only rifle cartridge I've tried loading so far is .30-30. I'd been using a ratcheting bit driver to hold the case, but you guys reminded me that I'd bought a drill recently I'll have to build up some cases that need trimming and give that a go.
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Old 06-08-2013, 04:37 AM   #1265
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Reloading definitely saves money, but the biggest reason for me is the quality and variety of components I can use. I haven't shot much lately, but we used to shoot long range (out to 1000+ yards) and in that game, you pretty much have to reload to have extremely consistent rounds. Personally if I were just blasting out high volume AR-15 rounds, I'd probably just buy some cheap factory ammo (if there is such a thing anymore), but if shooting for groups, reload.
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:15 AM   #1266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire Escape View Post
The die should not be ruined. There are stuck case removal kits.
Good luck!


Bruce

There are indeed stuck case removal kits and they work okay. The biggest issues are that the inside of the die typically gets scored by grit (thus etching all brass used in that die from then on) and the sizing bud usually gets trashed. You can buy those separately- but they are hard to find and almost as expensive as a die set.
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:33 PM   #1267
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I guess that I don't know of any case lube that will guarantee that gritty cases won't get stuck. Unless I am using carbide dies (and usually with them as well), the cases are all cleaned before they ever see a die. Always seemed to me that not cleaning cases first was false economy, you might save some time but it was going to be tougher on the equipment.


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Old 06-08-2013, 01:35 PM   #1268
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I fooled around with getting the stuck case out. It's in there pretty good this time. Since this is the 3rd stuck case for this die (all with One Shot) I figure it will probably be buggered when I do get the case out. Looked around on the web for a replacement Lee full length resizing die but found only complete sets, so I ordered up a Redding resizing die and a new tin of Imperial sizing wax.
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:12 PM   #1269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire Escape View Post
I guess that I don't know of any case lube that will guarantee that gritty cases won't get stuck. Unless I am using carbide dies (and usually with them as well), the cases are all cleaned before they ever see a die. Always seemed to me that not cleaning cases first was false economy, you might save some time but it was going to be tougher on the equipment.


Bruce
All my brass is tumbled and polished for 6 hours before reloading.

I guess that what I am trying to say is that "I agree that One Shot is not very good as a case lube for rifle cases".
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:46 PM   #1270
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Originally Posted by VegasKLRider View Post
All my brass is tumbled and polished for 6 hours before reloading.

I guess that what I am trying to say is that "I agree that One Shot is not very good as a case lube for rifle cases".
I'd say that it depends on whether you have to just neck size or full length size. With bolt guns, I always just neck sized, using the same cases for that particular gun.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:41 AM   #1271
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Got my new Redding sizing die in the mail today.




So I got to wok on some 40gr HP anti-coyote rounds for my Ruger Hawkeye rifle.






I'm using LC brass, H335, Sierra bullets, and Rem 7 1/2 primers.



The Redding die works great and my new Wilson case trimmer is nice too.

Another Wilson tool I've found to be very handy is this headspace/length guage.

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Old 06-12-2013, 08:44 PM   #1272
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Originally Posted by El Guero View Post
That case trimmer looks awesome! I also just have the Lee trimmer since the only rifle cartridge I've tried loading so far is .30-30. I'd been using a ratcheting bit driver to hold the case, but you guys reminded me that I'd bought a drill recently I'll have to build up some cases that need trimming and give that a go.
only loaded 30-30 here also (not counting 9 and 45acp).

i'm looking forward to testing out the variables. using unique powder.

made and shot 20 rounds with 8 GR and they grouped well, but seemed a little wimpy, distance-wise. (150 GR berry's plated bullets)

so i loaded a few up with 10 GR unique.

also testing two different OALs.

i loaded a few to max OAL (2.550) and found that to be way too long for my Marlin 336. i guess that's why the factory ammo from remington is closer to 2.50.

so made up four sets to test: 2.50 and 2.52 and 8 GR and 10 GR unique.
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:02 AM   #1273
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Originally Posted by urbancowboy View Post

made and shot 20 rounds with 8 GR and they grouped well, but seemed a little wimpy, distance-wise. (150 GR berry's plated bullets)
Wimpy? In what way? You have to understand using Unique and cast bullets is a slow speed game, usually. If you are not hunting with it, its quite okay to load "wimpy" cartridges. My favorite 30-30 load is a 93 grain cast over 2.7 grains of Bullseye. Still more powerful than a 22lr, but quiet and cheap.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:54 AM   #1274
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Wimpy? In what way? You have to understand using Unique and cast bullets is a slow speed game, usually. If you are not hunting with it, its quite okay to load "wimpy" cartridges. My favorite 30-30 load is a 93 grain cast over 2.7 grains of Bullseye. Still more powerful than a 22lr, but quiet and cheap.
John, are you able to adjust the sights to get a good point of aim with those loads? I find with my wimp loads that I have to take the rear sight as low as it will go to hit even remotely close to poa at 40-50 yards. (not sure I'm remembering that right, I'm really bad at talking about sight adjustment. Rest assured they usually hit pretty pretty low )
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:45 AM   #1275
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John, are you able to adjust the sights to get a good point of aim with those loads? I find with my wimp loads that I have to take the rear sight as low as it will go to hit even remotely close to poa at 40-50 yards. (not sure I'm remembering that right, I'm really bad at talking about sight adjustment. Rest assured they usually hit pretty pretty low )
Yes, I use a Williams peep on the Win94. It has plenty of UP adjustment.

I need to shoot it over the chronograph. I think they are around 900, but that's a guess.
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