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Old 06-12-2013, 03:34 PM   #151
KermitBike
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switch and other problems

I hadn't noticed this thread so posted my list of issues with the GS-LC on the other thread at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=9448

Yeah, I had switch problems -- the cruise control and especially heated grips switches both stuck. This was after riding through a hellacious storm in Montana. They both recovered after drying out for a few days, but this is obviously a defect.

My cross country ride (7200 miles in 12 days of riding) was a great test for the new bike.

-Karl
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:37 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KermitBike View Post
I hadn't noticed this thread so posted my list of issues with the GS-LC on the other thread at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=9448

Yeah, I had switch problems -- the cruise control and especially heated grips switches both stuck. This was after riding through a hellacious storm in Montana. They both recovered after drying out for a few days, but this is obviously a defect.

My cross country ride (7200 miles in 12 days of riding) was a great test for the new bike.

-Karl
Karl
Your write up is very informative.
Who ever is making the switches for BMW is doing a very poor job. As a K1600GTL owner as well as a R1200GS LC owner I can see the switch problems. On the K16 the problems seem to be heat related on the GS they seem to be water related. Some people have had luck with WD40.
Spence
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:13 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by treg View Post
Have they changed them since the first ones?
Possibly. They have a new part number.
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:16 AM   #154
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Originally Posted by Chirozilla View Post
For the third morning in a row with temps in the upper 70's my left controls worked perfectly. When I checked them at 1 PM they had failed again. Temp 90. This is consistent with the previous two afternhttp://www.k1600forum.com/forum/bmw-k1600-lighting-electrical/21705-1700-miles-rain-left-handlebar-controller-failure.htmloons. Any one experienced similar situation and have a cure besides riding with a ice pack strapped to the controls ?
As a temporary fix cover the switches when you leave the bike outside in the sun. This may give you a little longer life until the dealer can get a replacement switch.
This is one of the many threads on the K1600 forum.
http://www.k1600forum.com/forum/bmw-...r-failure.html
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:57 AM   #155
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Add me to the switch failure list. They worked well on the trip I just got back from but today riding it the cruise was trying to run away from me if I set it by oushing forward on the lever or use the accel function. Dealer called and they put an order in for new parts.
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:19 PM   #156
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Heat sensitive left control cluster

Quote:
Originally Posted by oz97tj View Post
Add me to the switch failure list. They worked well on the trip I just got back from but today riding it the cruise was trying to run away from me if I set it by oushing forward on the lever or use the accel function. Dealer called and they put an order in for new parts.
My dealer spoke with there rep today. He informed them that heat sensitive control failure was a result of cracked controller housing that expands with elevated temperature resulting in loss of conduction. Temp cools housing contracts thus connection made and controls regains normal function. Only cure is new cluster. This would be considered a cluster F--k. Leave on a 10 day ride in 14 days. New part 30 days out.
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:50 PM   #157
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Originally Posted by iride4u View Post
As a temporary fix cover the switches when you leave the bike outside in the sun. This may give you a little longer life until the dealer can get a replacement switch.
This is one of the many threads on the K1600 forum.
http://www.k1600forum.com/forum/bmw-...r-failure.html
Hey ya spence. I was wondering when you were gonna make it to these parts. Welcome friend
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:05 PM   #158
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Clutch wont completely dissengage and noises

GS LC, with 729 miles. Trailered it up the dealer for its 600mi service(oil engine change, shaft oil change, visual inspection, and road test. Dealer did that, test drove the bike) all ok. I drove it 150 feet to my trailer. Reloaded it back on the trailer the same way(straps on the handle bars, away from the clutch and brake reservoirs)Towed it 1hr home, took it off of the trailer. Got onto the bike, clicked it into 1st gear, grabbed a fist full of clutch, started it up and it lurched forward a few inches when it started and ran. Went to ride to the garage but stalled it. Noticed the clutch lever friction area was REAL close to the full grab on the lever. Restarted, lurched a few inches forward. Rode it to the garage(170ft from street to garage)

Once at garage, Key ON, motor OFF, in 1st gear, clutch lever to the handle bar grip. I noticed it wouldnt roll easily. I had to PUSH it to get it to roll. Then I noticed the clutch was not disengaging all the way. I could hear it slipping. what the heck?!?! Then I noticed the gear grinding noise in the video.

In the video. Starts off with key OFF, clutch level OUT, gear Neutral, rocking back and forward hitting the brake, then when i turn the key ON(@8 secs),it makes the noise. I turned the key off at 30secs, no noise. My brother came over and I rocked the bike and he said he thinks the noise is coming from the airbox/top of the motor area? No clue?

http://youtu.be/bfEB_MgB174

Dont know how to imbed videos.

So i called the dealer, told him what the dealio was. They said they didnt adjust anything, all they did was change oil and visually inspect brakes, fluid levels, etc,...they are gonna pick it up Tuesday. We'll see what happens from there.

Any thoughts on why it would make a noise with the key ON and not OFF? And why wont the clutch disengage fully?

Mattpar screwed with this post 06-13-2013 at 08:14 PM
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:17 PM   #159
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Originally Posted by Wdwrkr View Post
Hey ya spence. I was wondering when you were gonna make it to these parts. Welcome friend
I could not take the crappie suspension on the Tiger any more. I traded it in about two weeks ago and now am just waiting Engine guards, Boxes and a Remus exhaust. This is so much lighter then the K1600 it is a ball to ride. I wonder how many others from the K1600 forum are here also.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:07 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattpar View Post



In the video. Starts off with key OFF, clutch level OUT, gear Neutral, rocking back and forward hitting the brake, then when i turn the key ON(@8 secs),it makes the noise. I turned the key off at 30secs, no noise. My brother came over and I rocked the bike and he said he thinks the noise is coming from the airbox/top of the motor area? No clue?

Any thoughts on why it would make a noise with the key ON and not OFF? And why wont the clutch disengage fully?
My K1600GT does this as well. If you roll the bike key on engine off and grab the brake quickly the ABS pump activates. My guess it has something to do with the wheel speed sensor self test not being completed (thus wheel speed is deemed implausible) but the pressure sensors in the ABS controller see a quick spike in brake pressure and activate the ABS brakes as a redundant safety precaution until the wheel speed sensor test can be completed and actual wheel speed known.

Don't know about clutch issue.
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:08 AM   #161
NLS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattpar View Post
GS LC, with 729 miles. Trailered it up the dealer for its 600mi service(oil engine change, shaft oil change, visual inspection, and road test. Dealer did that, test drove the bike) all ok. I drove it 150 feet to my trailer. Reloaded it back on the trailer the same way(straps on the handle bars, away from the clutch and brake reservoirs)Towed it 1hr home, took it off of the trailer. Got onto the bike, clicked it into 1st gear, grabbed a fist full of clutch, started it up and it lurched forward a few inches when it started and ran. Went to ride to the garage but stalled it. Noticed the clutch lever friction area was REAL close to the full grab on the lever. Restarted, lurched a few inches forward. Rode it to the garage(170ft from street to garage)

Once at garage, Key ON, motor OFF, in 1st gear, clutch lever to the handle bar grip. I noticed it wouldnt roll easily. I had to PUSH it to get it to roll. Then I noticed the clutch was not disengaging all the way. I could hear it slipping. what the heck?!?! Then I noticed the gear grinding noise in the video.

In the video. Starts off with key OFF, clutch level OUT, gear Neutral, rocking back and forward hitting the brake, then when i turn the key ON(@8 secs),it makes the noise. I turned the key off at 30secs, no noise. My brother came over and I rocked the bike and he said he thinks the noise is coming from the airbox/top of the motor area? No clue?

http://youtu.be/bfEB_MgB174

Dont know how to imbed videos.

So i called the dealer, told him what the dealio was. They said they didnt adjust anything, all they did was change oil and visually inspect brakes, fluid levels, etc,...they are gonna pick it up Tuesday. We'll see what happens from there.

Any thoughts on why it would make a noise with the key ON and not OFF? And why wont the clutch disengage fully?
Please keep us posted.
Make sure you read the other clutch issue in the forum (which resulted in replacing the whole engine).

Curious: Why you trailered the bike back and forth?
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:38 AM   #162
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Originally Posted by NLS View Post
Please keep us posted.
Make sure you read the other clutch issue in the forum (which resulted in replacing the whole engine).

Curious: Why you trailered the bike back and forth?
NLS;

Could you kindly point me to the subforum and post number regarding the engine exchange due to clutch failure ?

Thanks,

Andre
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:44 AM   #163
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Originally Posted by atg View Post
NLS;

Could you kindly point me to the subforum and post number regarding the engine exchange due to clutch failure ?

Thanks,

Andre
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=877412

...but I think it is a different issue after all.
Anyway keep us posted.
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:31 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atg View Post
NLS;

Could you kindly point me to the subforum and post number regarding the engine exchange due to clutch failure ?

Thanks,

Andre
Quote:
Originally Posted by NLS View Post
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=877412

...but I think it is a different issue after all.
Anyway keep us posted.
That was me. It wasnt clutch related. It was a far different issue.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:23 AM   #165
Mattpar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sindarin View Post
My K1600GT does this as well. If you roll the bike key on engine off and grab the brake quickly the ABS pump activates. My guess it has something to do with the wheel speed sensor self test not being completed (thus wheel speed is deemed implausible) but the pressure sensors in the ABS controller see a quick spike in brake pressure and activate the ABS brakes as a redundant safety precaution until the wheel speed sensor test can be completed and actual wheel speed known.

Don't know about clutch issue.
Really... I was assuming that the abs wasnt active until the lights stop flashing after its been ridden the short distance to get the lights to stop flashing. But the level doesnt pulse when the abs kicks in and makes that noise. Makes some sense because the bike has to be on to make the noise.


Quote:
Originally Posted by NLS View Post
Please keep us posted.
Make sure you read the other clutch issue in the forum (which resulted in replacing the whole engine).

Curious: Why you trailered the bike back and forth?
Ill have to read up on that. Must of missed that thread. I trailered it because I didnt know how long the service would take and didnt want to be stuck at the dealer for 2+hrs. Wanted my truck there so I could go get lunch or hit the mall up and check out the honeys. I will keep yall posted
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