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Old 06-14-2013, 11:12 AM   #76
Tigers R great.
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: St.Leonards on Sea, England.
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Originally Posted by GuiltyParty View Post

It paid off, with a cracking view

Looks like the same place I was at in 2011.
3 - 1 black Tigers. 955i+800XC (sold)+800XC=113000 miles of fun.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:56 PM   #77
In my castle
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Loving your trip!
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:52 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by Hewzie View Post
All the best for the rest of your journey! Exciting and fulfilling...well done. If you get to Perth, let me know and you will have somewhere to rest up!
Your lady is tough as, on the back of a mid-sized bike for that distance. Good on her. Make sure you get back in time to witness another Hawks flag!
Cheers, Hewzie

Yep haha I am definitly a tough one lol thanks Hewzie, but to be honest speaking as a pillion the Tiger is sooooo comfortable even with all that luggage on the back there is enough room for me to be quiet for serveral hours until I start making noise ... and the tool belt sitting right behind me is not my bestfriend at times but all up its a pretty comfortable ride.

The tiger has also surprised me many times on this trip, being so new to this whole motorbike adventure riding and going off road this bike has taken us to places that I never thought we could go. Some pretty rough tracks but lots of credit to the rider for not taking us over the edge .... some tracks were narrow and I was so scared to look down.

Looking forward to the STAN'S and Mongolia. This whole trip has been an adventure and I have learned new things everyday and even about myself. Just really enjoying this
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:36 AM   #79
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Greece & Turkey part 1

We arrived in Greece late afternoon and immediately set about looking for a camp spot. Until this point we'd been avoiding camping either because of the risk of land mines in Bosnia and Croatia or bears in Albania and Macedonia. I'm sure the threat of bears was minimal but we slept easier each night knowing we were in a camp ground or a hotel, plus we felt safer from other humans which is more of a risk than any bear attack. It was our first wild camp since Adam had left us and Patty felt safety in numbers.

As we trolled the hills looking for a spot we ruled out one area which seemed to be a stray dogs hangout in an old army training ground.

We eventually found a spot amongst some farms and as were about to setup the farmer appeared and said to us "no no my friend no camp here....bears, camp by the main road". We weren't expecting bears in north Greece but heeded his warning anyway.

We had no intention of spending a great deal of time in Greece as we would come back one day and island hop, but as we cruised the main roads we spotted a sign that said "post Byzantine tower" so veered off for a look. We didn't find the tower, but found a gravel road and just kept on going to see where it would take us.

Still no tower but found an old foot bridge instead.

With our historic landmark box ticked for the day we moved on

It's all fun and games

We must have looked a state because this lady waved us over to her bakery and gave us a mixed bag of doughnuts and other assorted yummies.

The highway between Thessaloniki and the Turkish border is loooong and boring but eventually we got there. The border process is pretty straightforward but we coughed up 45 euro for the visa when it should have only been 15. I remembered it wasn't that much but couldn't remember the price so when the guy said it was 45 we just paid it. He pulled a swift one on us which we deserved for not writing stuff down.

Once through we could see another bloody storm brewing over the coast so we immediately set about looking for a hotel, only to be once again dumped on but this guy waved us into his shop to shelter from the rain.

We checked into a hotel in Kesan and once we were back on the grid we received some heads up from friends and family about the riots across Turkey. The Foreign Office suggested reconsidering travel and Patty had her concerns but it was an easy decision - if we can't go through Turkey our trip east ends here.

From Kesan we made a beeline for Istanbul to apply for the Uzbek visa as the website said it could go take up to 10 days without any mention of an express service. As I had an exam scheduled in Georgia on 17 June, if it took the full 10 days it would make it very tight so we headed straight for Istanbul. After a quick run to the bank to pay USD120 each for express service we had the visa in the passport same afternoon. Quickest visa process ever!

While we waited the security guard fed us from a nearby fruit tree.

With that out of the way we could kill the rest of the afternoon and soak up some over due rays. Europe on the right, Asia on the left.

No sign of riots as yet, a few people walking around carrying flags but everything is calm - this was mid-afternoon around 4:00.

As we trolled the streets looking for a hotel in some stupid busy traffic on a steep uphill the bike stalled unexpectedly and wouldn't start again - but I knew immediately what had happened. This is the second time it's done it, the first time was after a day of pretty heavy clutch use in some pretty gnarly mud but after 10 or so minutes of letting it cool down it fired back up. It happens right at the end of this vid

I still haven't figured out what is causing the problem but it seems to be happening when the bike is hot and the clutch is getting a bit of use. A thread on the problem can be found here post #1920.

Finding a cheap hotel with secure parking in a big city is a shitty frustrating exercise so after a couple of painful hours we stopped off at an internet cafe to book one in. With job done and GPS coordinates locked in we pointed the bike in the direction of the hotel, just wanting to get out of the traffic and stop the bike so it doesn't overheat (?) again.

As we're riding along I was thinking to myself - 'hmm traffic seems to have really died down, not many people about, bit hazy ahead, wait a sec...why are my eyes hurting?? why are there police standing over there with shields??? FUCK FUCK FUCK this is TEAR GAS!!! The next 10 minutes became some sort of chaotic scene from a movie as we tried to find a way out. The tear gas confused the mind - we were crying but for unnatural reasons. Cars seemed to be ok, but in an open face helmet the sensation was uncomfortable. Each side street we took ended in a dead end or was barricaded by the protestors.

The protestors didn't seem to have any ill intentions towards us so we stopped our frantic pacing and calmed down to get our bearings. Not at any stage did we feel threatened it was just a very confusing couple of moments and once we had got away from the immediate area life was completely normal, as if there was no disturbance. In Sultanahmet where we were staying tourists and life went about their usual routine so when people would later ask "is it safe to go to Turkey?" our immediate answer was / is YES.

The next day we became tourists and visited the Grand Bazaar

Pondered whether it should be called Burger King or Halal King.

Drank chay - the first of many, many teas

Ate where the locals ate

Pide and some type of sour yoghurt the locals loved but I could never get into it

Visited the Spice Bazaar

Sampled a turkish delight or two

Took photos of guys cashing in on the current patriotism

Smoked a little shisha

and some more

As if we didn't already have a buzz we added some arabic coffee

Wandered by the Blue Mosque. Patty had to come back the next day because she wasn't covered properly

And were attacked by cats

It was good to be off the bike for a bit knowing it was secure and just chill out and be a normal tourist for once.

I had to take the bike in to get the stalling issue and gurgling noise checked out so got in contact with the Triumph Motorcycles Club Turkey on facebook to see where they got their bikes serviced and they pointed me to Mototriple (Tayfur Sok. No:1, İdealtepe, Maltepe, Istanbul). Good bunch of guys and one of them can speak quite good english.

While the throttle bodies were getting adjusted the mechanic dropped the idle too much and it stalled, and as he went to restart it the dash went haywire and then nothing. Judging by the concerned look on their faces I was starting to shit myself and think of all sorts of ways to continue the trip. We checked the obvious fuses and all was ok and did the magic ECU reset by disconnecting the battery, waiting 15 minutes then reconnect but still nothing. Eventually found the culprit, a corroded solenoid fuse (sorry no pics other than that as Patty had the camera sightseeing - what kind of ride report is it without photo's of the bike?!).

The solenoid is under the battery in a shitty location where water can pool. The relocation process is described here:

Still no idea why the bike is stalling but the gurgling noise hasn't happened since I gave the radiator a good clean and changed the fluid.

While I serviced the bike Patty went sightseeing and made some new friends from Oz.

kebab. I was hoping it was too much food for one person but nup


The host in the apartment we were staying was a friendly chap

We had to do some back tracking to the Gallipoli Peninsula to pay our respects to the soldiers who fell at ANZAC Cove in WW1, which some would say is a pretty defining moment in Australian and New Zealand history.

Because a lot of the area is a memorial you're not allowed to camp in many places, but found a spot in a picnic area which was allowed. As soon as we rocked up a guy walked up to me and handed me a cold beer and said he knows what it's like to be on a bike.

We spent the afternoon with Jim and James talking shit and drinking the vodka he gave us as the sun set over the Peninsula

Jim was a British paratrooper and had some good stories for us. He told us one about about some sort of evil presence when he went camping one time and since then I've become a little more jumpy

This is the life. NAFS - Not Another Fucking Sunset photo

A brew with a view while I catch up on study

Jim and James

We spent the next few hours cruising around the various memorials

Nothing but thick scrub, tough conditions to launch an assault. Every year we celebrate ANZAC Day - a very boozy day but it's great to finally see it first hand and gives a real appreciation for what the soldiers went through.

Lone Pine Cemetery - the Australian memorial

And the Lone Pine, planted from a seed that was sent to Oz from a digger (an aussie solder) during the year then brought back to Gallipoli and replanted.

We visited the Turkish memorial and bought this guy a tea as bit of a gesture for all the hospitality we've received from Turkish people so far, who then gave me an english bullet as a gift.

The kiwi memorial alongside the another Turkish one

We were swamped by school kids wanting to get photos of us - who am I kidding it was Patty they wanted

We then got a ferry from Eceabat to Cannakale to follow the road along the other side of the Dardanelles. Troy is only 20k's down the road but I've been there before and it's pretty lame as far as ruins go so we skipped it. This horse from the Troy movie in Cannakale is pretty cool though

We found this little spot to camp in the hills, quite a long way from the main road but close enough to a gravel road where local traffic would see us. Patty felt more comfortable staying in places where she could ask the farmer if its ok we stay if they happen to pass by, which was the case this particular afternoon. Some guys on a scooter rode past and said it was ok as long as we didn't start a fire.


Late in the night Patty woke me and said there was someone outside and in my sleepy haze recognised a car was shining it's lights in our tent. It was a cool night so I was buried deep in my sleeping bag so as I quickly untangled myself from it and started to get dressed the car turned it's lights off. I was thinking it's the farmer who had a change of heart and now wanted us off his land and other scary thoughts but then he turned them back on and left. It rattled us a little bit so we didn't sleep that well that night.
Triumph Tiger 800 xc
Walkabout in Russia and Central Asia
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:38 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
Looks like the same place I was at in 2011.
Judging by the angle of the Lake you were further south than we were. It was cold enough when we there, without the snow!
Triumph Tiger 800 xc
Walkabout in Russia and Central Asia
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:01 AM   #81
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The puddles had a yellow ring around them which could be sulphur from a volcano, not sure if there were volcanoes around.
We get a similar thing here in Canada. I've heard people blaming it on flaring gas wells. It's actually pollen from the trees.

Have a great trip, I'll be following along.
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:04 AM   #82
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Great post!

Enjoying reading along.


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Old 06-15-2013, 10:34 AM   #83
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bears in north Greece


I enjoy reading about your trip!

Regarding the local guy in Greece that didn't let you camping due to bears - my comment as a Greek guy:
it's true. North and north-west Greece has bears in the country side/mountains.
However is strange what he said because this period bears hibernate. I believe it was a trick from his side, to scare you and not camp at his land.

Enjoy your trip!
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:44 PM   #84
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Great pics!

Thanks for sharing your trip. Mazel Tov!
Get out there and marvel at the Design!

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Old 06-15-2013, 05:04 PM   #85
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Very nice pics, trip, story and you guys rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dual Sport Luggage Racks for: DRZ-S, SM and E and KLR650 and DR650: Find me on Instagram " ahtoxa007 "
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:35 AM   #86
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Turkey & Georgia part 1

Someone had recommended we stop by Bursa to see a green mosque but as we were climbing a hill in a little traffic in the heat the bike stalled it's second time this trip. Embarrased, I had to get off and push it to the side of the road to cool down before it would start again. Each time it's happening it's as I go to release the clutch so I figure it must be related somehow but don't know what.

Pissed off at the bike, the traffic and heat we skipped the mosque and got out on some open roads heading for Kapadokia (Cappadocia) in central Turkey as it was on our way...sort of. It was an opportunity to get away from the coast because as we've come to learn the coast normally means lots of people, lots of traffic and dirty. The ride was pretty uneventful but the scenery was nice.

More clouds coming our way

The Turks have gone beyond being friendly. At one point a guy gave us directions to a bank and we obviously missed the turn cos we couldn't find it so 500 metres down the road as we turned around we saw the same guy getting out of his car yelling at us to turn around and for us to follow him. Feeling like naughty kids for upsetting him he lead us to the bank.


As we travelled south east the rain travelled south west and we were constantly crossing paths with the storm front. With big wide open plains we could see the rain moving towards us so at times we would gas it to beat it or just shrugged it off and cop it sweet. This was one of those moments we could see the rain in the distance but not wanting to sit around and wait for it to pass we dove headfirst towards it. 25 metres before we entered the 'wall of water' we stopped - we could physically see where the rain began. We knew this was going to be horrible - hailstones, side winds, drops of water that felt like hail stones the whole thing...then we passed out the other side of it into sunshine. It's these sort of moments that I love being on the bike, seeing and feeling the elements and being completely at mother natures mercy.

We stopped for our second chai (tea) and the locals refused payment.

This guy invited us in for our third chai. One of the big faux pas is to talk about politics when you first meet someone - bit difficult when the guy is a political refugee that used to live in Oz. Really nice guy thats starting a walnut business.

On the way to Kapadokia we passed some really interesting rock formations near Gulsehir where people have carved stuff into the sandy rocks.

We camped the night amongst the formations.

Possibly the best breakfast ever - baby food that are biscuits that turn to mush, cheerios and a cuppa

The trip to Cappadocia goes through some amazing scenery

And finally Cappadocia, where there are more formations but people actually lived in these dug out caves

We went down a trail looking for more of these foundations

Until the trail became a walking trail but that didn't men it couldn't be done...until the steps started. As we tried to turn around the bike sunk into the wet sand. A tourist happened by and offered to lift it out.

With the bike out and my dignity in tatters we headed back for the main road to take in more great views.

The landscape was so varied, lush green mountains, crazy rock formations, desert, red sandy clay - a bit of everything.

We climbed to the top of the mountains then turned the bike off and coasted for the next 40k's as the road twisted through the valley

Mosques in beautiful locations


Back on the coast of the Black Sea we found a nice spot in the forest out of the way to set up camp. We've learned now not to set up the tent until close to dark and do all our other things in the meantime. Right on dark two Turkish blokes turned up and right next to where we wanted to set up they sat down and starting doing shots of Raki (a clear alcohol). We joined them thinking without light they would move on but they stayed until the fire flies starting dancing around us. By then the bottle of raki had finished and they're actions became unpredictable so we left and found a hotel instead. They were nice though and one of the guys gave me his prayer beads which to me is a pretty big deal.

Turkey absolutely ripped our budget to pieces by £300. We budgeted £30 a day which is pretty unrealistic anyway. Cost of fuel is £1.62 p/l

We entered Georgia mid-day and Patty got hassled a little at the border cos she looks Indian (she's Fijian Indian) - apparently the indians are taking the jobs in Georgia.

First impressions of Georgia were that cows are taking over - they're everywhere! It's not a like a cow on the road is a shock but they are literally everywhere.

Second impression was the locals are really friendly and offered all sorts of advice.

Third impression is they're all bloody mental drivers. At one point on a two lane road we saw a bus overtaking a truck and another 4wd overtaking both the truck and the bus on the shoulder in the gravel with a truck coming the other direction. We've shat our pants on more than one occasion as buses scream past us then slam on their brakes to get in the two metres of space between us and the car in front.

One of the few lucky insects to survive the wrath of the tiger

A spot by the Black Sea to camp and chill out.

Triumph vodka


We bribed some dogs with milk to guard us for the night

An old USSR plant

Shishlek. If you're on holidays it's also a rule you grow some type of questionable facial hair. Through South America it was a filthy looking mo-hawk and now it's a porn star mo...Patty loves it.

We're now in Tbilisi so I can prepare and sit these exams. I've taken the covers off the text books and torn out all the extra pages to try reduce weight but they're still 5kg.

I've got itchy feet and just want to get back on the road!
Triumph Tiger 800 xc
Walkabout in Russia and Central Asia

GuiltyParty screwed with this post 06-16-2013 at 10:40 AM
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Old 06-16-2013, 03:05 PM   #87
Will it buff out?
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Good update young man...

Safe onward travels....

The Suit:What would you consider to be your greatest weakness?
Me: Honesty.
The Suit: Honesty? I don't think honesty could be construed as a weakness.
Me: I don't give a fuck what you think.
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:51 PM   #88
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It's got vodka right in the name so you know it's good.
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:06 PM   #89
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Good Luck on your last exams - eeeeewwwpppp

You will do great today .... :)
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:54 PM   #90
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Thank you

Great RR, thanks for posting. You going to keep going east and ride home?
"Don't worry" they said "It could be worse"
So I didn't worry and it did get worse!

My biggest ride yet. Oz to UK. Read all about it here
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