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Old 06-15-2013, 08:39 AM   #3886
JDRadman
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: In the Heartland
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GS/YZ Fork Swap Parts

Looks like about 2 - 3 weeks for the next batch. You can get them from Richard at HOH so give him a call - he is better with phone than email.

You will still have to solve for the rest of the install like brake lines, fork gards and other bits.

Richard has a GASGAS bracket that works for the key switch and bolts to the Yamaha top clamp.

Oh boy - more moto fun comming right up...

Rad
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:54 PM   #3887
Kainic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDRadman View Post
Looks like about 2 - 3 weeks for the next batch. You can get them from Richard at HOH so give him a call - he is better with phone than email.

You will still have to solve for the rest of the install like brake lines, fork gards and other bits.

Richard has a GASGAS bracket that works for the key switch and bolts to the Yamaha top clamp.

Oh boy - more moto fun comming right up...

Rad
I am in.
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:28 PM   #3888
Linusp3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDRadman View Post
Richard has a GASGAS bracket that works for the key switch and bolts to the Yamaha top clamp.
Rad
Have anyone solved the problem with not being able to use the steering lock? I saw an episode of GarageNightTV where they put on WP forks and made some sort of adapter for the steering lock... is it possible to do the same with the YZ:s?

Will the kit contain a dogbone as well?

//Linus
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:42 PM   #3889
WayneC1
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CG2005 at f650 is making ignition switch mounts which provide for the steering lock
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:18 AM   #3890
Linusp3
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
CG2005 at f650 is making ignition switch mounts which provide for the steering lock
Haha, how could I have missed the forum at f650?
Ive only read the Chain Gang FAQ:s about a million times

Thanks a lot!

//Linus
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:54 AM   #3891
Gangplank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linusp3 View Post
Haha, how could I have missed the forum at f650?
Ive only read the Chain Gang FAQ:s about a million times

Thanks a lot!

//Linus

He is on here as well.
F650 = cg 2005
ADV = creola
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:59 PM   #3892
Aquatic
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Buddina, Sunny Coast, Australia
Oddometer: 1,519
YZ fork swap available

I have just completed a complete suspension upgrade for a mate. But due to an unexpected financial situation he cannot pay for it and he is going back to stock.
Anyone interested, PM me for details and more pics.




I REALLY don't want to break up the kit at this stage. So all or nothing.
It is here in Australia, but I wiil ship it anywhere at your cost.

Forks - No travel reduction bush, but I was informed when I bought them that they were sprung for a Dakar and a 80kg rider.
Neoprene seal savers
HoH Axle kit
Caliper hanger - BMW caliper
ABS sensor mount


100mm longer brake line, braided stainless steel from HELPerformance- to suit ABS models
Guide to keep brake and ABS line from hitting the tyre


Bracket to strengthen the OEM mudguard


Bracket to mount the hooter


Ignition mount - A Craig special


YZ yokes with brand new head bearings from Pyramid Parts

Optional - Swngarm 1" raising links(No bearings)


All you realy need to complete this swap is grind a little clearance on the radiator shrouds and 2 corners on the dash frame. Also the front mudguard needs modification if you stick with OEM. Pretty much plug and play
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:44 PM   #3893
WayneC1
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Oddometer: 2,339
Kayaba Spare parts and fork travel limiting

Technical Touch is the Kayaba Spare parts distributor for Europe and they have a catalogue with diagrams you can download

http://www.technical-touch.com/filea...ts_2013_lr.pdf


Re travel limiting on the forks

WHile it is not relevant to many who are doing the conversion, travel limiting is needed for some conversions such as adapting a standard GS to stop the front wheel hitting the guard on full compression. The info below has been found in the process of a standard GS conversion to the YZ 48mm forks

46mm Forks

There is no stopper fitted so full compression seems to be metal to metal on top of the dmper tube
There is however a bump rubber available which fits above the damper tube, it is 33mm in height and compresses to around 20mm
This is what is fitted to some KYB forks on other models and hence they have 275mm travel instead of 295mm

The Kayaba parts are in the Technical Touch Manual and they have confirmed they can supply them

13 - 110130000401 Bump Rubber - Euro 9.84 each
14 - 110140000301 Bump Rubber Washer - Euro 8.61 each (Use your own washer/spacer)
15 - 110150000101 Bump Rubber Holder - Euro 7.99 each

A plastic spacer (roughly ID 13mm OD 30mm) can be fitted below the bump rubber to further travel limit the forks if desired as per the length reduction

48mm Forks
The damper rod and damper tube are common to the 46mm forks
On the 48's a hydraulic stop is added to the cap at the top of the damper unit as per WP forks
The hydraulic stop is interference fitted to the damper tube cap and is easily removed with a drift leaving the spring base in place

There is the choice of adding a steel or alloy interference fitted spacer below the Hydraulic stop which is a little engineering
or simply removing it and fitting the Bump Rubber system from the 46mm forks with a spacer of your choice
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:15 AM   #3894
Schlug
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I would really like to figure out a nice front fender solution or a low fender/fork guard solution that can be bolted to the mounts at the bottom of the fork.

With a knobbly on the front this bike throws an immense amount of trash up onto the radiator/headlamp.
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Old 06-22-2013, 01:18 AM   #3895
WayneC1
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When mud gets caught between a low guard and the tyre it is good night nurse

It is one of the bug bears for the larger 1200GS and as one of the owners commented recently the low guard clogs the front wheel in 2-3 minutes of riding then it takes 15 mins to clear for another 2-3 mins riding
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Old 06-22-2013, 01:36 AM   #3896
michael1968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
When mud gets caught between a low guard and the tyre it is good night nurse

It is one of the bug bears for the larger 1200GS and as one of the owners commented recently the low guard clogs the front wheel in 2-3 minutes of riding then it takes 15 mins to clear for another 2-3 mins riding
They're just not riding fast enough! haha. Seriously though if you keep the speed high enough the mud will fling off before it builds up most of the time. There are some types of mud (usually clay) that just stick no matter how fast you go.
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Old 06-22-2013, 01:45 AM   #3897
WayneC1
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Tell that to the KTM640 rider who had the 800km Flying Doctor trip back from Cobar, he survived the dirt after overnight rain, powered up onto the tar and it all came off, stick to the guard and locked the front at 120km/h No thanks, high guard for me
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:48 AM   #3898
michael1968
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Location: Newcastle, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Tell that to the KTM640 rider who had the 800km Flying Doctor trip back from Cobar, he survived the dirt after overnight rain, powered up onto the tar and it all came off, stick to the guard and locked the front at 120km/h No thanks, high guard for me
Yes, I think I saw that ride report, no fun at all!

I noticed that in this years Dakar that the top teams were running high guards for a lot more of the time than the year before, maybe they were expecting more mud.
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:53 AM   #3899
WayneC1
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I have a TT radiator guard fitted and that stops most of the mud getting to the radiator and it is easy enough to look at it at fuel stops and clean if need be.

If it is drought and water is scarce ya dont need to clean it anyway
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:46 AM   #3900
Barnman
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I have a lower guard and it works ok in the mud I ride in. This is just after completing the Kielder rally, so not looking at its best, but it cleans up well. The bike was muddier than this during the event, but most will have fallen off on the long gravel sections, however it gives you an idea of where the mud was flung and my rad is relatively clean.



a closer shot showing the clearance I have between tyre and guard



Some mud is wet



Some mud is sticky - I hated this hill, which came to be known as the hill of death just after this pic, its a long downhill, and no grip to prevent the pull of gravity into the ditch on at the bottom

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