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Old 05-20-2013, 09:09 PM   #16
l1ndon OP
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Thanks for reminding me about the woodruff key - its next on the list - then I';m thinking maybe electrical as I think you're right about the carb -

The only part of it I havent checked is the secondary emulsifier nozzle - but I dont think that would sufficiently explain the symptoms.
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:42 AM   #17
l1ndon OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpthumpthump View Post
Have you checked the woodrift key on the flywheel? You have not mentioned that sence it was suggested on 4/9/13. This will keep it from reving out. The timing get retarded. Even on one carb you should be able to hit redline in neutral with no load. On the secondary carb if the linkage moves the slide diaphragm moves and the fuel tube is open , that only leaves the main jet and the emulsifier tube with all the little tiny pin holes in it. Are all the little pin holes open in both carbs. They are the first to clog from bad gas. thumpthump
Ive got the side cover off, but cant see the woodrift key, what now?!? (And my gasket all shreaded, any ideas where I can get one from?)

Thanks

l1ndon screwed with this post 06-15-2013 at 05:53 AM
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Old 06-15-2013, 02:00 AM   #18
l1ndon OP
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Heres what I'm looking at if it helps

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n66hrkgr6htdme6/DSC_0002.jpg
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:51 AM   #19
thumpthumpthump
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Location: Cahah's Mountain N.C.
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Your picture is too small to tell. There is a slot in the crank and in the flywheel and they should be lined up with a half moon shaped woodrift key in the slot connecting them both. If the slots line up then you are ok. If they are not your key is broken. You would have to loosen the nut , realign them and put a new key in. Make sure all the outher timing marks are right . A key and gasket are available from oem suppliers on line thumpthump
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:59 PM   #20
JensEskildsen
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Key is under the flywheel, the flywheels slides "over" it.

Item 6 in this pic:

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...TON/parts.html
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:20 PM   #21
l1ndon OP
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So I need to take the nut off the end presumably?

How do I do that - is there a way of jamming the wheel from turning? (otherwise I only have a socket set and it just turns the engine over) - is it a matter of putting it in first and getting someone to sit on the bike?

I dont want to damage anything (I'm currently a bit beyond my experience as I'm sure you can tell) :-)
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:56 AM   #22
thumpthumpthump
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Put it in gear.thumpthump
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Old 06-16-2013, 11:52 AM   #23
JensEskildsen
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Or an airgun.

You'll also need a flywheelpuller to get the flywheel of.
Like this one from www.kedo.com :

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Old 06-16-2013, 01:53 PM   #24
thumpthumpthump
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Once you take the nut off just look for the slot alignment and the key before you pull anything. If the slots align its not your problem. thumpthump
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:03 AM   #25
l1ndon OP
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so - latest update -

I got the bolt off the end, and the washer and I can see down to the woodruff key.

Its not obvious whether there is anything wrong - certainly theres no movement visible, but it looks like the "gap" (or shadow) on the outer edge of the key might be very slightly thicker on one side than the other - like maybe its bent slightly

What would you expect to see if it was bent/broken - would there be any slack between the rotor and the shaft?

And whats my next move if it is bent - I can see three allen key bolts - but my internet research seems to point towards getting a puller?
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:36 AM   #26
l1ndon OP
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Hmm I took some photos - and messed about with them on the computer - looks pretty bent -
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:43 AM   #27
thumpthumpthump
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Its shaped like a half moon. Its fine and its still aligned . Its not your problem. Could be a bad cdi. Put a timing light on it. Its not adjustable but you can see if the timing is spec. If it is not advancing properly it would resist revving especially under a load. thumpthump
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:00 AM   #28
l1ndon OP
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hmm - not sure I understand - I thought it looked like it was bent to one side - the sides of the key dont look to be in line with the sides of the groove on the rotor, (the woodruff key is the greenish looking bit)

heres another pic - (I admit I'm out of my depth here, not trying to be difficult)


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Old 07-20-2013, 08:25 AM   #29
thumpthumpthump
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Location: Cahah's Mountain N.C.
Oddometer: 203
The key is a half moon shape , an arch. The end you see is tapered down and the top of the arch is further in the slot. The slot on the crank shaft is cupped out to match the curve of the arched key. It may be kicked over some and you can pull the flywheel and replace it if you want but it is not the cause of your problem. The slot would have to be totally un aligned and the key sheared. Don't worry about being difficult, It is very frustrating to solve these mysteries with trial and error. Keep asking questions to be clear about what you are looking for. Its hard to explain clearly about some of these issues. thumpthump

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Old 07-20-2013, 08:35 AM   #30
l1ndon OP
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ah ok - so theres a little bit of room for movement - got it...

thanks again
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