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Old 06-06-2013, 05:52 AM   #1
Neckrom OP
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KLX250S electrical issue

My bike was running fine on a dual sport ride this past weekend but then about half way through I had no battery power. I could bump start the bike but that was it. I got it home and pulled all the leads from the battery and put a battery tender on it. The tender ran for a bit and said it was charged. I put the leads back on and turned the key and nothing. No lights, no starter, nothin. So i am digging around and looking at all the fuses and connections and I dont see any problems. So I decide it must be that the battery is bad and the battery tender is lying. Wrong! I decide to run some jumper cables from my other bike that has a great battery. I hook up the cables and turn the key on the KLX and nothing! I unhook the cables and turn the key on the VERSYS. Now the Versys battery is almost completley dead. WTF. this was all of 3 minutes and it completley drained the battery. I am at a loss. What kind of a short or part going bad would drain a battery that quick? Is it the rectifyer? Something else? I am hoping someone can help me. I am not very virsed in motorcycle / car electrical systems other then the basics. I have a multi meter but may need detailed instruction if you want me to use it to test something. I usualy just use it for continuity tests.

06 KLX250S. I have put the 351 kit and pumper carb on it. I am ok with the mechanical stuff but really need to get better at electrical.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:40 AM   #2
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A shorted rectifier/regulator module would produce those symptoms. Disconnect it, recharge your Versys battery, and see if it will power your KLX again.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:45 AM   #3
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I had a similar problem with both my DR350, and the GSXR 750. It was a small relay that was for the ignition. It was a little black box under the side panel. I'll bet IF it isn't the rectifire regulator, that it is the relay and they are probably the same location on the KLX. I seem to remember it was a starter relay.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:28 PM   #4
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rectifier unplugged and everything is working again. I ordered a new one. We will see if that is the prob when its all back together and its working under its own power.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:55 PM   #5
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oh and this killed my batt on the KLX. Since I am in the market for a battery. Anyone have a suggestion. This is pretty much a woods bike so I am wondering about a lighter battery then stock or just stick with a stock battery?
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:16 PM   #6
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also a Great backup

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Old 06-06-2013, 07:32 PM   #7
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a kick is also on the list. ;-p for emergencies but a push start sure beats all when your already sucking wind. At some point I may convert strictly to kick for weight purposes.
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Old 06-07-2013, 04:21 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Neckrom View Post
a kick is also on the list. ;-p for emergencies but a push start sure beats all when your already sucking wind. At some point I may convert strictly to kick for weight purposes.
I would not get rid of the Magic Button, no way, but the backup kick is nice to have, I got mine from parting out a KLX300.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:46 AM   #9
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Funny thing about electric starters on bikes. All my off road bikes from the early 70's on had kickstarters. So when I got my new '85 KLR600 that had kickstart and e-start, I was quite pleased. When I bought an '88 KLR650 that had no kickstart, I was nervous. I yanked the kicker out of the '85 and installed it in the '88. After many years and 4 KLR600/650's, I never had to use the kicker. Since getting my '06 KLX, I've never had the e-start or battery fail to do its job. I've found that if you give as much attention and care to your battery as you do your oil level and oil selection, you don't seem to have an issue. I ride in remote areas all over the western U.S. by myself on my bikes. While a starter or battery failure can occur, it seems the odds are pretty low. Worst case for me will be a push start, and the KLX is at least light enough to push up most hills to get a push start even if you're in a low spot. Keep the battery charged, and don't try to milk every last ounce of spark out of an old battery and you should be good to go. I think a kickstart transplant costs about $300-$400 in parts if you do it yourself...if you use new parts. You can buy a lot of fresh batteries with that.
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:34 PM   #10
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lightweight battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neckrom View Post
oh and this killed my batt on the KLX. Since I am in the market for a battery. Anyone have a suggestion. This is pretty much a woods bike so I am wondering about a lighter battery then stock or just stick with a stock battery?
Buy a Shorai lithium battery! Like 70% lighter than stock, no acid or water to contend with, will last a year without charging, and its got a 3 year warranty! Perfect!
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:21 PM   #11
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it looks like the rectifier was the problem. New rec installed and everything seems to be working good again. I am going to take it for an extended ride tomorrow so hopefully my electrical probe are behind me. I ended up getting the shorai and saved 5 lbs. I have not had a chance to put the battery through the ropes but we will see tomorrow. I got a great price on it so i went for it. The whole process got me thinking about my use for the bike. I use it for mostly offroad maybe a few miles of street. I decided to start the bike on a diet. So far I have removed 10lbs of items I just don't need and I have more to go. I have removed things before and didn't weigh them so I am sure my weight savings are even higher. Nothing has been done that can't be undone at a later date if I so choose. I am thinking about a headlight swap to get rid of the heavy light and metal bracket combo. I had a trailtech x2 on a different bike but it did not seam to put out enough light and the halogen popped in it 2 times in verry short amount if time.

Any other suggestions for headlights with good candle power that are reliable. I am hoping not to break the bank but if I need to so be it. All suggestions welcome.
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Old 04-10-2014, 04:09 PM   #12
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So I went for a good ride last weekend with my 2009 KLX250s and all was well until we went out on our last run of the day and the speedometer starts blinking on and off as I was riding and when I came to a resting place the battery was dead! I had charged it that morning and it is a new battery. So after I bump started it the bike worked OK but no power lights led nothing. I took it home and cleaned it up and started jiggling the the cable to the speedometer and it lit up so I figured it was OK. Then Tuesday I went to check it and it had been on a trickle charge and the bike was dead no power nothing. I purchased a new rectifier and installed it this afternoon and it did nothing. When I turn the key to the on position my charger changes from green to blinking red and then when I turn the key to off the charger glows red for a few seconds and then glows solid green for being fully charged. All fuses look OK.
Where should I start?

See it fail
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggOx...e2_G2S71rpeKrA

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Old 04-10-2014, 09:05 PM   #13
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sorry. I am not an electrical guy. That's why I posted here. I will say when I bump started my KLX everything worked fine. No light issues or anything. When the rectifier failed it ruined the battery. It would almost instantly drain a fully charged battery. I had to replace the battery too. To test it after I replaced the rectifier I jumped off of another bike and it didn't drain the battery. It might be the battery for you too but your symptoms sound like a short.
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Old 04-10-2014, 10:36 PM   #14
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definitely a short. the reason it runs with a bump start is the ignition is totally independent from the rest of the electrical.

if the fuse is good, then the short is either in the main wire before the fuse (and the fault does not load the fuse), or it's not in the fused line.

that only leaves what ever is between the battery and the regulator, or the regulator itself.... or:

I can't find a diagram to check, but there may be other wires.... like possibly the cooling fan circuit... anything that connects to the battery that is not in the main fuse

the stator only connects to the system through the regulator, and because the bike runs, it's not that. (the stator generator section could act as a load, but only if the regulator is failed) (rectifier actually)

if the fault is not obvious, you can connect a turn signal flasher or light bulb in between the battery plus lead and the main wires... that will limit current flow while you troubleshoot. a light is nice... when you move the wires around it will flash when the short is made. by flexing wire bundles you can isolate the problem
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Old 04-11-2014, 04:54 PM   #15
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Thanks for the help!
I had left the bike an a charger since yesterday and when I got home and turned the key the headlight turned on! I was like OK this battery is toast. I connected the jumper cables and did not start my truck, I just let the trucks battery charge the bikes. After 20 minutes the speedo showed up and the bike kicked over! Yes!
But the instrument panel and speedo where blinking on and off again while it was running! OH NO! So I went to Advanced Auto and got a 7 amp hour from them for $40 and it came with a three month warranty which I figured would help if the battery died again. Connected it up and it now working perfectly! Yes! $40 for the battery and $40 for the rectifier and we are good to go! I will keep an eye on it but I am going riding tomorrow!

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