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Old 06-16-2013, 07:39 PM   #1
Big Bamboo OP
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1984 R65 :Tell me more

I'm looking at a neglected 1984 R65 that's for sale here on the island. Lady who is friend of the owner says it last ran two years ago. Stale gas in tank, rusty frame, front brake and suspension still works, engine turns with rear wheel, seat is toast, 79,000 miles on the odometer. Your standard barn find, Puna style... I think I can get it pretty cheap. My question is this, anything R65 specific I should watch out for? I like that it has a bean can ignition, clutch carrier and handlebar master cylinder. Are R65 headers model specific? Do the carbs, wheels, transmission, rear drive etc all interchange with the 1970s Boxers?

Big Bamboo screwed with this post 06-19-2013 at 11:14 PM
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:20 PM   #2
Voltaire
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R65 specific things are like:
Engine
Headers, 35mm I think, Norton Peashooters fit fight on.
Forks, triple clamps and front brake or brakes.
Speedo assembly.
tank, sidecovers and seat.
swingarm is shorter as is rear subframe.
Carbs are 32mm,Ignition and charging system is the same.

I saw " The Decendents" last week so I'm guessing you have lots of tight winding roads, an R65 would be a lot of fun on those. I sold mine a few months back and now have a lumbering R100RT mono....I miss my R65....still hope to have my Guzzi Monza road legal soon
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:15 PM   #3
villageidiot
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R65 front wheel is 18"
Tank is shared with r80st and g/s
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:05 PM   #4
Big Bamboo OP
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Thanks for the info, guys. I checked the MaxBMW fiche and most of the parts that will need replacing are still available, like headers.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:47 PM   #5
Big Bamboo OP
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Look what followed me home!

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Old 06-19-2013, 06:01 PM   #6
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oh man.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:19 PM   #7
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Oil Change and a new Battery and you are away
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:58 PM   #8
Bill Harris
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Rust/corrosion from salt spray? Lot of ooogly, but the internals are probably OK. Check the air filter housing for mice nests soon. And start working on those exhaust nuts-- I'd worry that they may be stuck.

Otherwise, good project ahead.

--Bill
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:09 PM   #9
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Yikes!
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:18 PM   #10
Big Bamboo OP
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Not salt spray, just humid Puna air... I not going to try and rebuild it. Even though I only paid $300, and I have revived crustier looking specimens, the back registration fees to get it legal are almost $900. So... parts it is. It came with a nice set of Krauser bags, available soon on a Flea Market near you!

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Old 06-19-2013, 09:27 PM   #11
Bill Harris
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Puna? Urban Dictionary:

"A district in the southeastern corner on the island of Hawai'i. Known for its active volcano, cheap land, hippies, free spirits, pakalolo farmers, and 'wild west' like tendencies."

I see. :|

Maybe it'll buff out?

Seriously, it looks like a good project.

--Bill
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:02 PM   #12
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1984 R65; Digging In

Had some time to tear into the R65 this weekend. The air cleaner was the worst thing I found. It had disintegrated and left a mess in the box. Everything under the valve covers was clean though, the valves are even properly adjusted! Likewise under the front cover, pretty much what I expected to see, but no dead animals or nests. Even the carbs were clean inside; the bowls dry with no residue and the slides moving freely. It appears someone took the time to at least partially prepare this bike for storage. I put a battery in it and got lights on the dash and it turned over with compression. Even the tank, which does not appear to be original to this bike, was relatively clean inside. Questions: both the front cover and snowflakes appear to have paint peeling off of them, along with plenty oxide. Where the snowflake wheels and cover originally painted silver from the factory? What's the best way to clean this off? I gave it a bath and my mufflers are no longer green! :mrgreen: Tomorrow I'll add gas and see if it will fire up...
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:04 PM   #13
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It Lives!!!

Cleaned the debris out of the gas tank, mounted a new petcock, new carb bowl gaskets, put in some gas and she started right up! I revved it a couple times, no knocks, no stumble, no smoke out the tailpipe at all and it settled down to a nice idle...! At first it wouldn't shift out of neutral, so I shut it off and rocked it while pushing down on the shifter and started it in first. I drove it up and down our long driveway and around my yard for 15 minutes, and now it shifts fine. Dumped all the drive line oil; rear drive was clean with smooth fuzz on the drain plug, drive shaft was empty and the drain plug's stripped. Trans oil came out cloudy, with a few gritty bits on the plug... bummer. Tach works, speedo don't... such is life!
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:25 AM   #14
Bill Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamboo
At first it wouldn't shift out of neutral, so I shut it off and rocked it while pushing down on the shifter and started it in first. I drove it up and down our long driveway and around my yard for 15 minutes, and now it shifts fine.
Typical of a "humid storage bike" and we should have mentioned it. Moisture can cause the clutch disk to "rust to" the clutch plate and the clutch doesn't release. Cure is exactly what you did-- start it, drive around and break the clutch free.

Quote:
rear drive was clean with smooth fuzz on the drain plug, drive shaft was empty and the drain plug's stripped. Trans oil came out cloudy, with a few gritty bits on the plug... bummer.
Rear drive not overfilled? That is usually where the driveshaft oil goes. Stripped drain and fill plugs are frequent on the driveshaft. The typical (difficult) cure is to helicoil, difficult because there is no room to work. For the time being, cleanoff the drain plug and loctite it in til you can fix it. On the trans, fill and change oil several times. Any noises? Check and replace the rubber boot in the speedo cable-- that is where water gets in to the trans.

Still, good news overall...

--Bill
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:19 AM   #15
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The hubs were not originally painted. Get some 000 or 001 steel wool and some green scotch brite pads and go to town. Works well for the wheels and the engine/drivetrain. Just don't overdo it or it'll look too polished.
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