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Old 06-13-2013, 03:25 PM   #16
Tin Woodman
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You poor wretch - broken truck, broken glasses, sprained right thumb, sand in the splines, no job - pretty soon we're gonna start feeling sorry for you. Look on the bright side - at least you're left-handed, you're bike's on the road to recovery and the pina colada plan is coming together.

Maybe use this valuable down time to clean up your messy shop. But whatever you do, don't use this as an excuse to curtail your usual vitriolic essays.

Get well.
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:53 AM   #17
ME 109
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Those float bowl pitchers..... is that your margaritas or my red wine?
Don't worry, I'll find out in the morning.
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:43 PM   #18
kaput13
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[QUOTE=Plaka;21693553]Time to torque the heads. Checked the no-name beam wrench against the Snap-On clicker @ 26ft-lbs. Dead on.



Nice one. Thanks to that I now have verified accuracy on the beam wrench I much prefer.
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:46 PM   #19
DoktorT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Put the new Speigler lines in. Threaded everything up finger tight, adjusted the banjo, etc. I needed 1" longer on the top line and it fits well.

But all the fittings sort of sit at an angle. They thread together ok but they're sloppy, you can rock the parts slightly, like the threads are undersized. The fittings are also aluminum, which I don't care for, don't seem to be anodized and have very little clearance before bottoming on the steel fittings on the bike. I tighten things very gently figuring if they leak I can tighten a bit more.

One strips anyway. I didn't have 6 ft-lbs on it. But all the threads aren't stripped, only the first half!. The thread pitch is indeed wrong, only half the threads were taking the load.

I am a seriously unhappy camper. I patch it together with PC11 marine epoxy and cross my fingers. I don't like this on a front brake. I don't like any of the fittings (except the banjo). None of them fit correctly. And snugged down they are still sitting cocked on the bikes fittings.

I let the epoxy cure, load with fluid and bleed.



The epoxy doesn't hold and the fitting leaks. I could get a lot more sophisticated with the epoxy but these are my front brakes. A failure can easily be fatal. I can't really test the other fittings with the one leaking.

I'm pissed. I need to have a word with the vendor I got these through, and/or Spiegler. They are definitely going back.
Welcome to the learning curve. Experienced mechanics would have noted the evidence of wrong threads before ever just trying and see what happens. Speigler sells to DIY'ers so should at least send you the right lines. But you futzed your calipers on your own dime.

Epoxy is never used for critical thread repair. Nothing is more critcal than front brakes.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:32 PM   #20
Kai Ju
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Put the new Speigler lines in. Threaded everything up finger tight, adjusted the banjo, etc. I needed 1" longer on the top line and it fits well.

But all the fittings sort of sit at an angle. They thread together ok but they're sloppy, you can rock the parts slightly, like the threads are undersized. The fittings are also aluminum, which I don't care for, don't seem to be anodized and have very little clearance before bottoming on the steel fittings on the bike. I tighten things very gently figuring if they leak I can tighten a bit more.

One strips anyway. I didn't have 6 ft-lbs on it. But all the threads aren't stripped, only the first half!. The thread pitch is indeed wrong, only half the threads were taking the load.

I am a seriously unhappy camper. I patch it together with PC11 marine epoxy and cross my fingers. I don't like this on a front brake. I don't like any of the fittings (except the banjo). None of them fit correctly. And snugged down they are still sitting cocked on the bikes fittings.

I let the epoxy cure, load with fluid and bleed.



The epoxy doesn't hold and the fitting leaks. I could get a lot more sophisticated with the epoxy but these are my front brakes. A failure can easily be fatal. I can't really test the other fittings with the one leaking.

I'm pissed. I need to have a word with the vendor I got these through, and/or Spiegler. They are definitely going back.
Didn't you and I have a conversation about where I got my brake lines from, and that you didn't feel confident getting them from a local supplier ?
Not to be a Richard Cranium, but mine don't leak, and the thread pitch is correct...
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:22 AM   #21
chollo9
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A teetotaler woman walks up to a disheveled bum with a bottle in a brown paper bag and says, "Cleanliness is next to Godliness, by William Shakespeare."

The bum replies, "Fuck you, by Lenny Bruce."
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:28 PM   #22
Kai Ju
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Glad you got it figured out, really.
BTW, it's not nice to tell somebody to shut up, twice at that. But it sure made me smile...
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:26 PM   #23
Kai Ju
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conserving brake fluid

Since your system is already clean just make sure that the brake fluid goes into a clean container while you bleed and reuse as needed. Also, I back bleed by pressing the piston back into the caliper.
This displaces the air into the master cylinder since it holds so much more brakefluid than the line and master cylinder combined.
I use a C-clamp with the brake line fitting is at the high point to ensure that whatever air is in the caliper bore is forced out.
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:06 PM   #24
Kai Ju
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Back Bleeding

Once you get the caliper full of brake fluid get a C-clamp and use the screw portion to push the caliper piston into the caliper. I usually do this after normal bleeding procedure and then push the piston out a fair distance with the brake lever to get as much brake fluid into the caliper as possible. remove the caliper from the fork leg and get the brake line fitting at the highest point and start squeezing the piston into the caliper. This will force several ounces of brake fluid up through the line and it will exit though the compensating port hole, the tint hole, into the master cylinder reservoir. What ever air was trapped in the caliper or the lines has no choice but to get pushed out into the master cylinder reservoir due to the much greater volume of brake fluid contained within the caliper. I found this to be more effective than the small volume of fluid that is moved by the master cylinder piston in removing trapped air.

Get rid of your old brake fluid, clean the bleeder out really well and add some clean fluid that you can later reuse.

For those that don't have a bleeder, use a clear hose, such as a battery vent hose and make sure that it goes up hill after it exits the bleed nipple before you go down into a clean mason jar that already has an inch or two of brake fluid in it. This will prevent air from getting back into the caliper.
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:46 PM   #25
Kai Ju
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Ok, let's start over.
Remove the caliper from the fork, (one rubber cap, the spring cap and the eccentric adjuster bolt)
Remove the pads. Extend the piston out by pumping the brake, but obviously not all the way! (do not run out of brake fluid in the MC reservoir while you do that, it really sucks....)
Now apply the C-clamp to the newly extended piston and push it in until it bottoms out in the caliper. Watch the brake fluid level in the MC reservoir while you do that so you don't overflow.
Reinstall pads and install caliper on fork, pump piston back out, see how it feels. If ok, adjust eccentric bolt as necessary.

When bleeding up from the bottom, or using a vacuum bleeder, you need to wrap the bleed nipple threads with Teflon tape to prevent air/brake fluid from leaking in/out.
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:12 PM   #26
Kai Ju
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Yep, those are Brembos, but the method still works. For dual piston calipers I use these: http://tinyurl.com/kftagtp
Everybody should own a pair of these.
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:03 PM   #27
ME 109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
no fluid changes
What about exchanges?

Just a thought, do you know how to put a 'back to top' button on your posts Plaka?

My mouse wire isn't long enough.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:24 AM   #28
DoktorT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
picking up tidbits and odds and ends. A completely critical piece has gone missing so I go nowhere until it's found.

Worked on the wiring diagram some. Shows promise. I'm real sick of spending half a day figuring out what I did the last time so I can do the next thing. I want a real diagram of what's there.
Before you start such a project, make several blowup copies of the stock diagram and use them to document your additions and revisions as you do them. A handfull of colored pencils is a buck at the thrift store. When your are done, you are done.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:45 PM   #29
ozmoses
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'bye.
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:49 PM   #30
Bill Harris
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Dang. The silence is golden.

--Bill
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