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Old 06-18-2013, 04:17 AM   #1
Malindi OP
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Final drive leak on a single side swing arm Airhead (R80G/S)

Hi guys,

I am looking for some info on how to deal with a final drive leak (the big seal) on my R80G/S. All I find is info twin shock bikes. Even Snowbum doesn't have any info. I can see the seal ... can I just yank it out (how?) and replace it with the new one?

I'm in Thailand, so have limites access to shops but BMW is getting me the part in two days for $25, so not too bad.

If anyone in Chiang Mai has some shop space...

Thanks
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:21 AM   #2
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Really easy. Just poke a hole (or a few) in the seal and give it a few good tugs with a seal puller or other hook-like implement and it should come out without too much of a fight. I believe I banged my last one in with the butt of a screw driver. Easy peezy. No shop space necessary. You can do this one on any sidewalk in about 10 minutes if you have the right puller.

You want the one on the left/top or something similar:

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Old 06-18-2013, 06:32 AM   #3
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look here if you want to take it all appart
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:05 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Really easy. Just poke a hole (or a few) in the seal and give it a few good tugs with a seal puller or other hook-like implement and it should come out without too much of a fight. I believe I banged my last one in with the butt of a screw driver. Easy peezy. No shop space necessary. You can do this one on any sidewalk in about 10 minutes if you have the right puller.

You want the one on the left/top or something similar:


Phew, thanks, that makes me feel better ... :-)
Is there space behind the seal to indent it a bit inwards, as you can with a rear main seal? I don't want to damage anyhting behind it...
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:05 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Really easy. Just poke a hole (or a few) in the seal and give it a few good tugs with a seal puller or other hook-like implement and it should come out without too much of a fight. I believe I banged my last one in with the butt of a screw driver. Easy peezy. No shop space necessary. You can do this one on any sidewalk in about 10 minutes if you have the right puller.

You want the one on the left/top or something similar:

Also, is there an edge it seats to or do I need to eyeball it for flushness?
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:14 AM   #6
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Yikes! No, I don't want to do that with just a tool kit ... :-)
I'll go take a hard look at it tomorrow morning and see what size of puller I can source here.
Thanks guys!
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:50 AM   #7
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been a while since I've had mine apart and I'm not sure if there is a flange where the seal will bottom out. I suspect not. The seal fits flush to the outside so just stop there, which that shouldn't be hard to judge. My concern would be rolling the seal lip, but the flange the inner part of the seal rides on sticks out a good amount so it might not be that big of a deal.

It is quite easy to pull the cover off and remove the driven gear assembly. Undo the bolts around the cover and use two small 6mm (?) bolts to push the cover off. Looks bad in pict but it's really simple. That being said I think you can remove the seal and install fairly easy too.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:53 AM   #8
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also, why do you need a puller if doing it AW's way???? Which is pretty much a road side repair. No special tools, just make sure not to go past flush w/ the seal.

just don't be too ambitious with pocking the seal as there is a bearing behind it with a carrier for the balls. Don't push a drill or screw too deep to damage that carrier.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:53 AM   #9
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Also, is there an edge it seats to or do I need to eyeball it for flushness?
Aw, crap. I don't remember exactly what's behind that seal. I can't remember if it bottoms out on something or not. Take a photo of your current seal and then pull it out. You'll see what's inside and if there isn't anything that the seal runs into you can at least set the new one to the same-ish depth based on your photo.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:03 AM   #10
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this is the best pict I have, there is a shim behind the bearing. Looks like the shim bottoms out on a flange but not the seal. The seal may bottom out on the shim. if replacing the seal with FD assembled.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:04 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
also, why do you need a puller if doing it AW's way???? Which is pretty much a road side repair. No special tools, just make sure not to go past flush w/ the seal.

just don't be too ambitious with pocking the seal as there is a bearing behind it with a carrier for the balls. Don't push a drill or screw too deep to damage that carrier.
Noted, thanks. I am doing it the roadside way as I won't have the paper gasket ... didn't order that.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:05 AM   #12
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Really easy. Just poke a hole (or a few) in the seal
You mean in the seal lip? I would imagine the seal itself is too tough..?
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:06 AM   #13
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aw it should be fine doing it that way....I was replacing bearings when I did mine.

NO the seal has metal in the flat part...stay away from the inner flange that the seal lip rides on as scratching that will ruin the seal once assembled.

You'll have to drill (but not too deep) the flat part of the seal and screw in a wood screw and use pliers to pull on the screw and pull the seal out. Or pry with something at the screw hole to wedge it out.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:15 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Malindi View Post
You mean in the seal lip? I would imagine the seal itself is too tough..?
No, you should be able to puncture the seal itself, just be careful not to go too deep as OLH warns above. I wouldn't try hooking anything under the lip for fear of putting a scratch in the sealing surface. Just poke a hole in it toward the outer edge with something sharp and skinny and then pull it.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:30 AM   #15
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Thanks guys .. I should get the seal on Thursday. Will report back here.
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