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Old 06-13-2013, 11:35 PM   #61
Twin-shocker
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I would advise that the best possible alteration for any TLR still equipped with EPA type induction system parts is to remove them and fit Taiwan made carb that comes perfectly jetted for the TLR, and remove flame trap from stock air box, and fit pod type filter. Its very very difficult to tune a carb if its worn out (which many OE ones are), and if you have fixed pilot its impossible, unless you have machining facilities to get that sorted. Last time I bought one the Taiwan carbs were around $24.
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:31 AM   #62
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http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=473
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=468
So which is it? Shedworks or ebay?
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:25 PM   #63
Twin-shocker
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The Taiwan carbs are available from Shedworks and from Ebay. They are a genuine bolt on replacement, and in combination with removal of the flame trap, and intake silencer are something that really does improve the way a TLR runs.
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:28 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
The Taiwan carbs are available from Shedworks and from Ebay. They are a genuine bolt on replacement, and in combination with removal of the flame trap, and intake silencer are something that really does improve the way a TLR runs.
So where is this flame trap? As far as I can tell there's the cylindrical grating arrangement around which the filter element fits, and then the intake passage into the carb. If I remember correctly when I stuck my fingers in there I felt the innards of the carb - nothing that might be a flame trap or a backfire screen.
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Old 06-15-2013, 04:26 AM   #65
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The metal gauze cylinder which the OE foam filter fits over is the flame trap. This tends to very much reduce flow at higher rpm, and removing it as well as the intake silencer parts is a good way to increase performance.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:23 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
The metal gauze cylinder which the OE foam filter fits over is the flame trap. This tends to very much reduce flow at higher rpm, and removing it as well as the intake silencer parts is a good way to increase performance.
Got it, I think. I'll figure it out when next I'm in there.

I did remove the intake silencer and the bike went from starting on the first or second kick with little choke to starting on the second or third kick with full choke, to yesterday not starting at all with a fouled plug. I will not whine about having no time at the moment to tear into this thing but I sure am looking forward to a couple days free to get this carburetor sorted out.

BTW the carb offered by Shedworks (I assume its the chinese unit of which you have spoken) is offered at 80, plus post. I'm thinking OEM rebuild kit.
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:07 AM   #67
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I would suggest taking a close look at your carby.............it seems to me like you may well have a porous float? The carbs sold by Shedworks are made in Taiwan, and while quite as well made as OE are pretty close. They can also be found on Ebay for $24.

The flame trap removal is not difficult and simply requires a stub making which faces into the air box, and fits into the intake hose, which a KN or foam type pod filter can be fitted to.
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:39 AM   #68
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Something is dreadfully wrong for I can't
Kick the bike over without
Fou-ow-ling the plug...

Marty Robbins just took a few spins in his grave.

Tomorrow the carb comes out.
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Old 06-16-2013, 12:48 AM   #69
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Might be an idea to check whether you have a perforated float? You dont even need to take carb off bike to do this, and it takes less than 5 minutes.
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:09 AM   #70
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So Iron John, what was the outcome of your high altitude jetting experience?
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:18 PM   #71
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So Iron John, what was the outcome of your high altitude jetting experience?
I could be out of line, but I think he hasn't gone yet, or might be out there now? He was supposed to make it to our event week before last, that is the last I heard from him for a while now.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:27 AM   #72
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While we're waiting for IJ to check back in I will share with you that I fixed my plug fouling problem. My buddy Tom stopped by (on his very loud Suzuki Intruder) and just Tom's presence seems to clarify most mechanical and/or electrical problems. I explained my problem, that being the fouling of the plug after merely kicking over the machine, and his diagnostic strategy went something like this: "It worked before, right?" Yes. "And then you made a change?" Yes. "Try undoing the change." See, Tom is a genius.

What I had done was take out the baffle/snorkel/organ pipe thingy from the air box leaving that 2 inch square hole behind which hole I then proceeded to plug with a bit of air filter foam, figuring that more air filtration had to be a good thing. Uh, nope. Basically it had the effect of sticking a sock in someone's mouth and holding their nose. The poor little beast couldn't breathe! So out came the offending filter and voile' - after a few kicks she (he?) roared to life. Amazing how sensitive that ai/fuel mixture can be, and how dense I can be. Now it starts first kick again. The plug is still blackish and Tom's suggestion is that I remove the air filter altogether and run it around for a while in the clean urban mountain air we are blessed with and see if the plug lightens up. Might do that later today.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:29 AM   #73
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Great write-up UG!
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:54 AM   #74
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Thanks Laser. Hopefully we can learn from each other's misadventures!
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:32 PM   #75
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+1 for being honest.
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