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Old 06-19-2013, 10:42 PM   #4321
001andrew
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One of our 690's busted their radiator at Dalhousie in the exact same position. We think it must have been from the corrugated roads from the great central road and the Finke race course? Nursed it across the Simpson and KTM replaced it under warranty. didnt see anything to suggest an impact damage. Didnt ever stop the engine running though and it got hot a few times crossing the dunes. His boot was completely wet everyday with radiator coolant. He had the higher pressure rated radiator cap fitted, but not the Rally Raid 84 celcius temp sender.
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:39 AM   #4322
Big Willy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 001andrew View Post
One of our 690's busted their radiator at Dalhousie in the exact same position. We think it must have been from the corrugated roads from the great central road and the Finke race course? Nursed it across the Simpson and KTM replaced it under warranty. didnt see anything to suggest an impact damage. Didnt ever stop the engine running though and it got hot a few times crossing the dunes. His boot was completely wet everyday with radiator coolant. He had the higher pressure rated radiator cap fitted, but not the Rally Raid 84 celcius temp sender.
In that situation Andrew, I'd pull the pressure sealing washer from the cap (the smaller of the two).

It will depressurise the system so coolant doesn't disappear nearly as quick. Worth keeping an old secondhand one for that reason.
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:35 AM   #4323
touser
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Originally Posted by Big Willy View Post
In that situation Andrew, I'd pull the pressure sealing washer from the cap (the smaller of the two).

It will depressurise the system so coolant doesn't disappear nearly as quick. Worth keeping an old secondhand one for that reason.

Mine sprung aleak in the exact same spot. It's corrosion. If you don't change the fluid every year the coolant goes acidic and eats through the aluminium quickly. Get a new one as the rest of it wont be much better.
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Old 06-20-2013, 03:22 AM   #4324
mrwocky117
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'09

I've got an 09 r model with 37k on the clock ...... Never changed the fluid ....never had a leak .
Quote:
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Mine sprung aleak in the exact same spot. It's corrosion. If you don't change the fluid every year the coolant goes acidic and eats through the aluminium quickly. Get a new one as the rest of it wont be much better.
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Old 06-20-2013, 04:48 PM   #4325
001andrew
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coolant

Maybe thats an area where they are prone to fatigue? Mates bike was brand new. KTM's 2 year warranty is pretty good, I'll keep my eye on mine. I am not changing my radiator cap Willy, I just bought the 85C rally raid temp plug to keep it cooler. The boys bought the high pressure caps to stop them boiling for our trip as they were told to do so by their dealer, not sure if the Rally Raid temp plugs were available in mid 2011?

Quote:
Originally Posted by touser View Post
Mine sprung aleak in the exact same spot. It's corrosion. If you don't change the fluid every year the coolant goes acidic and eats through the aluminium quickly. Get a new one as the rest of it wont be much better.
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Old 06-20-2013, 04:57 PM   #4326
001andrew
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Temp gauge

Does anyone know the answer to my question about the temp gauge on 2013 model?

I swapped out the 105 degrees temp plug for the Rally Raid 84 degree.

On the water temp scale (on the speedo) there is about 12 bars. At what temp is bar 12? Is it still over 100 degrees, or does it change the scaling factor now the 84 degree plug is installed? I didnt ride it with the original 105 plug installed.
Maybe i should let it idle and see when the fan comes on? If its at 12 bars and the fan comes on then its 100% on the scale. Probably answered my own question?
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:05 PM   #4327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 001andrew View Post
Does anyone know the answer to my question about the temp gauge on 2013 model?

I swapped out the 105 degrees temp plug for the Rally Raid 84 degree.

On the water temp scale (on the speedo) there is about 12 bars. At what temp is bar 12? Is it still over 100 degrees, or does it change the scaling factor now the 84 degree plug is installed? I didnt ride it with the original 105 plug installed.
Maybe i should let it idle and see when the fan comes on? If its at 12 bars and the fan comes on then its 100% on the scale. Probably answered my own question?
Are you using Engine Ice also ... ?
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:33 PM   #4328
Baric
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My 12 would randomly get to 10 or 11 bars .

Installed RR 84 degree and engine ice.

Fan kicks in a bit earlier

So here's the funny thing cold morning you'd think the bike wouldn't get so hot

Stop at lights fan comes on look down 10 bars??

Never boiled or lost fluid so maybe I should ignore the gauge.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:26 PM   #4329
001andrew
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coolant

Engine ice? Its only done 32kms..............But I will once it has had its first service and prepped for the Simpson in Sept, thanks

Might just put some duct tape over the gauge, cheers Baric

Quote:
Originally Posted by Baric View Post
My 12 would randomly get to 10 or 11 bars .

Installed RR 84 degree and engine ice.
Fan kicks in a bit earlier
So here's the funny thing cold morning you'd think the bike wouldn't get so hot
Stop at lights fan comes on look down 10 bars??
Never boiled or lost fluid so maybe I should ignore the gauge.
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:44 PM   #4330
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baric View Post
My 12 would randomly get to 10 or 11 bars .

Installed RR 84 degree and engine ice.

Fan kicks in a bit earlier

So here's the funny thing cold morning you'd think the bike wouldn't get so hot

Stop at lights fan comes on look down 10 bars??

Never boiled or lost fluid so maybe I should ignore the gauge.

Gage isn't necesarily calibrated to reflect nominal temperature at middle of gage. Many European cars look like they are reading hot when in fact they are normal. We Mericans have been trained to think that the middle of the gage is where normal is.
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:03 AM   #4331
mezcal
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Did about 100km yesterday on fire trails and I don't think mine went over 3 bars. Pretty bloody cold day with the odd rain shower, trails were nice and sticky but =)
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:17 AM   #4332
001andrew
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Rally Raid Nav Tower

If anyone who is running the Rally Raid nav tower/ headlight assembly and wants the steering lock to work again, I just made a longer pin and it works a treat. I used an old lower shock bolt (10mm dia) and just machined a groove similar to the original one. The original one is 45mm long and you need one that is 51mm long. Its very easy to get the pin out of the barrel, just unscrew the bottom electrical part and then just slowly prise off the small plate the holds it all together (red arrows in pic). Its made out of monkey metal so be careful. Insert the new pin and tap the plate back on which is an interference fit and the electrical connection on the bottom will hold it all together.
John from Rally Raid will have these available soon


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Old 06-28-2013, 04:37 PM   #4333
El Ponkin
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Thought I would try and quieten the thunderbike and try the quiet insert in my FMF Apex pipe, the instructions say to put it in the muffler but it doesn't fit unless you have to remove the fibre sealing sleeve, put it in and then put the sleeve back in, as I have run the pipe for ages I haven't got a hope of getting that fibre sealing sleeve out. Anyone played with this can help me out.

Andy
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:13 PM   #4334
mezcal
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On my WR i had a yoshi system that came with inserts like yours I think.
I cut the muffler bit off leaving something like a reducer that fit on top of the mesh spark arrestor and under the end cap. Quietened it down a lot.
Dunno if thats what you got going on or not though
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:37 AM   #4335
El Ponkin
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Thought I would try and quieten the thunderbike and try the quiet insert in my FMF Apex pipe, the instructions say to put it in the muffler but it doesn't fit unless you have to remove the fibre sealing sleeve, put it in and then put the sleeve back in, as I have run the pipe for ages I haven't got a hope of getting that fibre sealing sleeve out. Anyone played with this can help me out.

Andy
Figured it out, it wasn't a fibre sealing sleeve in the muffler inlet it was a metal adapter sleeve that I was able to drive out intact using a long bit of metal tube just catching the edge up the guts of the pipe, once out the quiet insert dropped straight in then it was just a matter of driving the sleeve back in to secure the insert, jobs done. Now to see if it is any quieter.

Andy
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