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Old 06-22-2013, 09:54 AM   #60196
techforlife
CDI REPAIR
 
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Moncton,New Brunswick
Oddometer: 4,168
Quote:
Originally Posted by super samurai View Post
GREMLINS
so i replaced my cdi that i figured was the culprit, guess again!
so here is what it does, run from home to gas station and no start,
it is not getting spark either, it doesn't even try to start.
then out of the blue it will start.
it is spuradic when it does this so it is hard to find.
so where do i start throwing $ or tearing apart.
i still have all my safetys but they all seem to work?
put the kick stand down and it will die.

never dies while riding ever.

so what else kills the spark?
i am thinking the kill switch?

at least i now have a good spare cdi!
thanks brian
Most common failure points:

CDI
Kill switch needs cleaning/relube
Pulse Generator (i`d go there next)
Igntion coil
Ground under the seat corroded/dirty
Ground at starter end
Sidestand Switch


I`d definately clean the kill switch if you haven`t already and then replace the PG generator..

B
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01 XR650L,102mm JE 11.25:1..NX650 second gear,FMX650 fifth gear,ported CW head,KW valve train,MegaCycle 173X25.FCR MX pumper.42/158 NVCT needle.Cycra probend CRM,Scott`s sharkfin,Xr`s Only casesaver.FMF "Q2",Sutton Oil Cooler,Clarke 4.0,Red XR`s Only skidplate,Doubletake mirrors,Manracks Rotopax rack..one Minature Schnauzer
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:55 AM   #60197
techforlife
CDI REPAIR
 
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Moncton,New Brunswick
Oddometer: 4,168
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Mine is a garage queen.
So is the owner......









Get that air filter yet






B
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01 XR650L,102mm JE 11.25:1..NX650 second gear,FMX650 fifth gear,ported CW head,KW valve train,MegaCycle 173X25.FCR MX pumper.42/158 NVCT needle.Cycra probend CRM,Scott`s sharkfin,Xr`s Only casesaver.FMF "Q2",Sutton Oil Cooler,Clarke 4.0,Red XR`s Only skidplate,Doubletake mirrors,Manracks Rotopax rack..one Minature Schnauzer
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:05 AM   #60198
vwhammer
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Joined: Jun 2013
Location: Athens, Ohio
Oddometer: 10
It's nothing more than a plain old stock 2000 XRL at this point but I figured I would post up anyway to officially "sign in"




Like a lot of people, I have big plans for the bike over the winter months.
In the mean time I am just fixing bits so it's reliable and functional.
I have about 500 miles on it since I purchased it and it just keeps getting better.
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:22 PM   #60199
Grayjet
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Va Beach
Oddometer: 366
Caliper rebuild

Thanks for the replies, fellas. I will check out ebay and go from there. I need to redo my front as well; it doesn't feel as strong as it used to. I suppose the 20 year old brake line could be the culprit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Neither, don't bother with rebuild, buy another one on EBay. Price out the rebuild parts and check out EBay.
Quote:
Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
Either should be fine.......i would not rebuild a caliper on a dirtbike myself unless i could get the stripped down caliper soda blasted to remove all corrosion under inside the piston bore and where the seal sits...corrosion expands and makes the piston stick,,,soda blasting removes all corrosion and no metal,,making it like new again...

B
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:40 PM   #60200
joexr
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Location: S.E.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayjet View Post
Thanks for the replies, fellas. I will check out ebay and go from there. I need to redo my front as well; it doesn't feel as strong as it used to. I suppose the 20 year old brake line could be the culprit.
Braided lines aren't that expensive.
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:04 PM   #60201
RZRob
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Anaheim Hills, CA
Oddometer: 1,214
Quote:
Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
Most common failure points:

CDI
Kill switch needs cleaning/relube
Pulse Generator (i`d go there next)
Igntion coil
Ground under the seat corroded/dirty
Ground at starter end
Sidestand Switch


I`d definately clean the kill switch if you haven`t already and then replace the PG generator..

B
This is one of the top 10 posts ever.

RZ Rob
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:08 PM   #60202
RZRob
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Anaheim Hills, CA
Oddometer: 1,214
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Mine is a garage queen.
Quote:
Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
So is the owner......







B
This one's pretty good too though.

RZ Rob
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:04 PM   #60203
techforlife
CDI REPAIR
 
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Moncton,New Brunswick
Oddometer: 4,168
Quote:
Originally Posted by RZRob View Post
This one's pretty good too though.

RZ Rob
...thanks Rob..gotta tease Fritz a little or he won`t feel loved


B
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01 XR650L,102mm JE 11.25:1..NX650 second gear,FMX650 fifth gear,ported CW head,KW valve train,MegaCycle 173X25.FCR MX pumper.42/158 NVCT needle.Cycra probend CRM,Scott`s sharkfin,Xr`s Only casesaver.FMF "Q2",Sutton Oil Cooler,Clarke 4.0,Red XR`s Only skidplate,Doubletake mirrors,Manracks Rotopax rack..one Minature Schnauzer
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:39 PM   #60204
Broken Wings
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No tool kit with a new XR...?

I bought a new 2013 XR650L and was looking for the tool kit... I figured it was stashed in the battery compartment/box because it wasn't in the little red bag on the back of the fender.

Do you not get a Tool Kit with a new XR?

Not that I'm real upset about not getting one as the tool kits that I've gotten in the past weren't anything special but the larger box end spanners with the flattened tube extension worked to loosen the axle nut. The two piece design wasn't bad.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:44 PM   #60205
bwalsh
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Hell town
Oddometer: 10,556
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdennan View Post
Can anyone here with an Acerbis tank take a picture of what it looks like from behind the bike and in front? I want to see how it sticks out from the sides of the bike. Does it really change the fit of the bike? Just don't want to get it all mounted up and find it turns the bike into a baja beast in the new england woods.
Thanks

What's the deal with re-locating the turn signals? Does Acerbis include something to do it?
This pic shows how much it sticks out compared to the side panels...






Quote:
Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
Kill switch needs cleaning/relube
Spraying the switch may not solve the problem. I had to pull the switch completely apart and clean it good to get mine working again.

Taking a start/stop switch apart
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:24 PM   #60206
Spud Rider
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Location: Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
...Spraying the switch may not solve the problem. I had to pull the switch completely apart and clean it good to get mine working again.

Taking a start/stop switch apart
Thanks for reminding me; that was a great post. I bookmarked it this time.

Spud
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:22 PM   #60207
super samurai
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: port orchard,wash.
Oddometer: 316
Quote:
Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
Most common failure points:

CDI
Kill switch needs cleaning/relube
Pulse Generator (i`d go there next)
Igntion coil
Ground under the seat corroded/dirty
Ground at starter end
Sidestand Switch


I`d definately clean the kill switch if you haven`t already and then replace the PG generator..

B
Thanks for the list, this helps!

Its a garage queen as all my toys are.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:23 PM   #60208
Jud
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Location: N.E. Ga. USA
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Don't know if y'all remember or not but earlier last week I was chasing an oil leak. I bought the bike with the leak and the PO said it was the neutral safety swith. I assumed it was and when I needed to change out the chain and sprockets, I figured it would be the perfect time to fix the leak. Since the PO said it was the NSW, I just had that in my head and when I saw the boot on the stator wires torn up, I relayed that here where I was quickly reminded it wasn't the NSW but the stator wire boot.

I be-guammed the grommet and boot with permatex ultra grey and hoped it would fix it. Nope,,,,,, but not what you are thinking I bet. Believe it or not, it's the clutch actuator rod thingy that's leaking. Only leaks during high rpm runs like when you're on the hwy. It would leak and fall over the backside {toward the starter} and onto the stator wires then down the side of the case which is why I thought,,,, and I reckon the PO thought it was coming from behind the chain/sprocket cover. I popped some seal sweller in and if that doesn't work, I'll replace the seal. I know ya'll are thinking the seal sweller is snake oil but man,,,,,, I've had good luck on several occasions including a Trans Lab trip where I was on Newfoundland when my countershaft seal started leaking bad, real bad. I used twice the recomended amount of some seal swealer I got from Canadian Tire. With a day or two it stopped the leak completely and it stayed stopped for about two-three months and a few thousand miles. Ironically, I paid someone to "fix" it and they didn't bend the tabs back over the bolt heads to lock them in place. The seal blew out while riding and I didn't notice it till it pumped the engine dry. Wonder I didn't bust my ass with all the oil on the tire. I will say that DL650 engines will run without oil, at least for awhile with no ill results as that was about 20K miles ago!

Any who, I took the opportunity to do a battery relocation. I have decided to use heavy duty industrial velcro to hold the CDI on the right side of the airbox behind the side cover {it's a tight fit but a heat gun on the side cover will fix that} and will also be placing the starter solenoid under the same side cover, placing the solenoid on the very edge of the top of the air box. I think the fuse "box" will bolt on the side too. The CDI "should be fine since in addition to the velcro, it will be sandwitched between the airbox and the side panel. If I notice any movement or slippage, I'll use some sheet metal screws to attach a couple of angle aluminium to the bottom and sides to further capture the CDI. Same with the solenoid if it's not as secure as I want.

BTW, is that where y'all moved that stuff too? Battery will go on top of the airbox after I ground the airbox inlet lip down. Also ground a ridge down on the underside of the seat. I think that's where most of your placed your battery. Mine's a bit tight because I used a 8 cell Li-Iron instead of the normal 4 cell because I've had bad luck with the recommended size cranking the engine when cold and I ride alot in cold weather {well, as cold as N.E. Ga. gets}.

I actually thought about putting the CDI in the airbox but thought against it based on reduced airflow and the constant oily conditions inside there. I know vecro wouldn't work in there, was gonna drill a couple of holes and use a zip-tie, then silicon the holes. But,,,,, don't think I'll worry with that now.
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Jud screwed with this post 06-22-2013 at 10:45 PM
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:24 PM   #60209
super samurai
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Location: port orchard,wash.
Oddometer: 316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Broken Wings View Post
I bought a new 2013 XR650L and was looking for the tool kit... I figured it was stashed in the battery compartment/box because it wasn't in the little red bag on the back of the fender.

Do you not get a Tool Kit with a new XR?

Not that I'm real upset about not getting one as the tool kits that I've gotten in the past weren't anything special but the larger box end spanners with the flattened tube extension worked to loosen the axle nut. The two piece design wasn't bad.
I believe they do, you'll want the spark plug socket for sure.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:52 PM   #60210
Jud
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Location: N.E. Ga. USA
Oddometer: 1,982
Another BTW,,,,, I have a 42mm Mikuni that I have put on awhile back. I bought it used and it had some rather wierd jetting. It's too rich and I bought some jets from XRs Only. Supposedly, I bought one of each, the jets for roughly 1-2K feet {aftermarket pipe only}, then one over and one under. Once I get the battery relocation done, I'll yank the tank and start rejetting.

I've noticed y'all are using the Kiehn FCR,,,,,, is there a reason y'all like it over the 42mm Mikuni that XR's Only sells? Eventually, I'll get around to getting someone to split the cases, add my NSX650 2nd and FMX650 5th gears, a big bore and cam. Maybe get a CW head and big fins. Till then,,,, bench racing is fun I suppose.
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