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Old 06-23-2013, 10:02 PM   #77911
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I'm impressed by the high mileage DR owners have achieved. The comments about lubing the swing arm,
My swing arm bearings were ok when I checked and greased them. My desk puter died so I can't look up when that happened; somewhere around 30k miles IIRC
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
steering head
My steering head bearings needed to be greased before I got to them, and should be done before 20K (again, I can't look at my records). I had seen this posted before and those posts were correct; Zuki didn't waste any money on greasing the steering head.
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
and wheel bearings has me wondering:
The stock single seal wheel bearings have a pretty good reputation for long life. I replaced mine because I spend too much time on the internet and had seen them mentioned a few times (looks like 20,800 miles, on the box in the drawer). All four were in good condition when removed. I replaced the stockers with an aftermarket brand with double seals. Then I read on the internet that the ones I used were 'of questionable quality'. So many thousands of miles later (looks like 8k, another old box in the drawer), I decided to go back to the OEM bearings, this time double sealing them, using seals off of the old bearings; like this:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=81

Every time you have a wheel off, stick a finger in the bearings and spin them, feeling for notchiness. If there's ANY roughness, replace them as soon as possible.

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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Is there a specific grease for each of these?
Idealistically, yes. But NASA doesn't read this thread.
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
What do you use?
My newest favorite is a marine grease, I think from Pep Boys. It's soft and gushy, easy to knead into the bearing rollers; unlike some of the stiff wheel bearing stuff with the consistency of roofing tar.

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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I have a can of waterproof wheel bearing grease that I use for my boat trailer bearings. Are there any attributes lacking in that?
If you're happy with it for the boat trailer, and since it's waterproof, sounds good to me.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:11 PM   #77912
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawnchair View Post
ride as far forward as my Wolfman allows.
That's a little unnerving having that thing touch yer junk, izznit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I don't plan to use my DR as a road bike (I have an old one of those) but I was really freaked out with the change to full knobs, and I was unsure if there was another issue that came about with the bike from the change. I am a O.F.F. , but Speed has never really provided a sense of FEAR as these knobs at 60 on the freeway. Why I can remember a time when......
Remember this: it's a dirt bike with knobbies, it's supposed to wiggle like a girl. You remember those right?
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-24-2013, 01:07 AM   #77913
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
That's a little unnerving having that thing touch yer junk, izznit?
Maybe his "Wolfman" IS his junk. One of my friends used to call his "Little Elvis".

Something touching the Wolfman is really only a problem if he's not into that kind of thing. He might be shy though. Who knows?

Quote:
Remember this: it's a chunky dirt bike with knobbies, it's supposed to wiggle like a fat girl. You remember those right?
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Old 06-24-2013, 01:21 AM   #77914
Kommando
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Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I know this is subjective but I'm gonna say the problem is the 606 front. I have grown to not like that tire. I started with 606s and didn't know any better. Eventually I read about people talking about low speed almost-washouts and the like with the 606 front and decided to try a 606 rear and an mt21 front. That combo works perfect for me.

Because I can't plan for shit and I'm thousands of miles from home, I buy tires at shops when I need them. All the last shop had for the front was a 606 so I took it- immediately I have the same washouts and such. Its stable for me on the street, and works good in mud, but I hate the 606 front in gravel. Its also directional which sucks because you can't flip the tire to extend its life once you wear off the edges.

As always, ymmv. Others like the 606 front and it may have a bunch to do with your riding style
There are quite a few tires that are only liked as rears, but not fronts...

D606- Many don't like the front in gravel, sand, or mud.

K270- Many don't like the front while leaned on pavement.

K760- Many don't like the front on any surface.

K761- Front wears funny.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:01 AM   #77915
BadDogMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
There are quite a few tires that are only liked as rears, but not fronts...

D606- Many don't like the front in gravel, sand, or mud.

K270- Many don't like the front while leaned on pavement.

K760- Many don't like the front on any surface.

K761- Front wears funny.
I'll add my experience:

IRC GP-110- Quietest on pavement, not too good in sand at all, a little squirrely on pavement

Shinko 244- Offroad grip not as impressive as it looks, noisy as a knobby onroad, not confidence inspiring in corners

Michelin T63- Noisy onroad, good grip and feel onroad and off, wears in 3k miles but is cheap so it's my first choice

Haven't tried 606 or Kendas yet
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:35 AM   #77916
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My experience with the Shinko 244 was it was fine for the price. Cheap as heck. Mounted it in Cresent City California when the volcanic rock in Ore and Wash ate the T63 up.
The Shinko lasted well and did a good job. The problem was removing it. It was a real bitch to break the bead. I ride with a 3 time ISDE rider and he couldn't even break that bead. I think if I had a puncture out in the woods I'd be riding it flat.


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Old 06-24-2013, 10:04 AM   #77917
yooperbikemike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
My experience with the Shinko 244 was it was fine for the price. Cheap as heck. Mounted it in Cresent City California when the volcanic rock in Ore and Wash ate the T63 up.
The Shinko lasted well and did a good job. The problem was removing it. It was a real bitch to break the bead. I ride with a 3 time ISDE rider and he couldn't even break that bead. I think if I had a puncture out in the woods I'd be riding it flat.
I just mounted 244's to my DR. The rear was a bit stiff (Not nearly as stiff as the OEM BT20 rear on my ST1300, tho) and didn't really loosen up much with the old leave it out in the sun for hours trick. The front, by comparison, fairly fell on the rim.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:04 AM   #77918
3DChief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
My experience with the Shinko 244 was it was fine for the price. Cheap as heck. Mounted it in Cresent City California when the volcanic rock in Ore and Wash ate the T63 up.
The Shinko lasted well and did a good job. The problem was removing it. It was a real bitch to break the bead. I ride with a 3 time ISDE rider and he couldn't even break that bead. I think if I had a puncture out in the woods I'd be riding it flat.


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The trick for any tire out on the trail is to use the kickstand of another bike to break the bead, I've never had that technique fail. The trick is the leverage and letting the weight of the bike do all the work. Even my wife's little XT225 has more than enough weight to break the toughest bead.

If you are on your own, you just have to get creative, but I have used logs and sticks and rocks to good effect!


Tim
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:16 AM   #77919
DockingPilot
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the DR650 thread

Kick stand, oh I know that trick and. Bruce know every trick in the book as ISDE riders are timed on it. Try my H3 to break it. Lol
Seriously. Maybe it was a flukey tire.


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DockingPilot screwed with this post 06-24-2013 at 11:26 AM
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:27 AM   #77920
3DChief
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Make sure you clean the rim really well next time you have the tire off. I know that my experience isn't normal because I go through tires pretty fast. When I got my bike, the tire had been on there for quite some time (years!) and the rim had never been cleaned, it took about 10 minutes of working around the tire using my Vulcan 1500 kickstand and tire irons to break it loose. There was some crusty dried funk around the bead of the tire and on the rim, effectively welding it on there! Since wire-wheeling the inner rim and using proper tire lube when changing/repairing, all changes since then have been easy.


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Old 06-24-2013, 11:35 AM   #77921
bmarks
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Just joining in here. Just picked up a low mileage, barely used (9300 miles) 2003 DR650 that's been somewhat modified with Racetech suspension bits and FMF Q4 exhaust. Seems to run ok except at higher RPMs (not sure which because there's no tach) - I wonder if the jetting on the carb is off.

Haven't pulled the seat to see about intake mods yet but will do soon.

Sure is different than the K1300
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:40 AM   #77922
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
My experience with the Shinko 244 was it was fine for the price. Cheap as heck. Mounted it in Cresent City California when the volcanic rock in Ore and Wash ate the T63 up.
The Shinko lasted well and did a good job. The problem was removing it. It was a real bitch to break the bead. I ride with a 3 time ISDE rider and he couldn't even break that bead. I think if I had a puncture out in the woods I'd be riding it flat.
This is something DR riders should pay attention to! If an ISDE guy can't break the bead ... I doubt anyone can. I've posted about this sort of problem before ... but I would not have guessed that the Shinko 244 would be a tough tire to break down. But I'll take Docking Pilot's word on this!

I had tremendous problems breaking the bead on my Avon Distanzias ... in one case, rode it FLAT 50 miles on pavement and it NEVER broke the bead. Took Two guys and a proper bead breaker to do it. What a PITA. (We used a giant C clamp that a buddy packs)

Some sort of decent Bead Breaker should be carried ... and one that's been tested, so you know you can do it Solo. With flat tires, friends around are always appreciated. ... and that is why I rode 50 miles on my flat, destroyed the tube (Valve stem pulled out). But with friends drinking beer and BS'ing ... the whole episode became a Party.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:47 AM   #77923
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
I know that my experience isn't normal because I go through tires pretty fast.
My experience as well. I hardly ever have to use a bead breaker.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:47 AM   #77924
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
The trick for any tire out on the trail is to use the kickstand of another bike to break the bead, I've never had that technique fail. The trick is the leverage and letting the weight of the bike do all the work. Even my wife's little XT225 has more than enough weight to break the toughest bead.

If you are on your own, you just have to get creative, but I have used logs and sticks and rocks to good effect!


Tim
You've obviously not tried to break down a tubeless Avon Distanzia! It laughed at the side stand trick. Not even close! Even with the TIRE crushed FLAT by the side stand, ... the BEAD would NOT budge. You need several contact points, little wood blocks and a few other tricks. I have an easier time breaking the bead on my 1050 Tiger rear ... a 180 X 17 tire than I do on the Distanzia on the DR's rim.

The side stand trick works perfectly on most any dirt bike or 50/50 tire. Generally much softer side wall. But ... apparently the Shinko 244 is stiffer than many of us thought!
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:52 AM   #77925
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Lol !
Well I'm hoping it was just that particular tire.


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