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Old 02-26-2013, 07:29 AM   #16
biggus
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I saw someone asking on Pyndon's thread for the length of lines he used, I think he said he didn't keep any measurements. Has anyone already figured out what lengths are needed (06 950 standard)?

Also curious on the specs you used for your transfer tube. OD, ID, length.

I have the high fender on my 06 950 but I'm just running a single front disc at present (I run a front knobbie, I'd feel differently if I ran a front Scorpion). Even if I stick with one disc, I like the transfer tube idea as I hate the stupid loop of hose in the cockpit plus it makes it easy to switch between dual and single discs. KTM did a really nice job decluttering this area for the 990, 950 dash area sucks.
Nobody has come back with any lengths yet. I have a 06 950s so I guess I am just going to have to wing it and bend a piece of wire and see how it looks the measure. Glad I found this thread cause I had initially thought of running the lines straight up the fork tubes and allowing for full extension. I thought that is what Pyndon did initially. Then I read someone stating it would kink so I went back and looked over his thread and it shows he has them looped and not straight. That would of been a costly mistake on my part.

As far as the tube goes I picked up a one meter length of stainless pipe they use to make gun barrels with here in Thailand for 15 bucks. I was lucky that this was the right ID for a M10x1.0 Tap!

Cut a piece off 20cm long. Took it to a local machine shop and had them mill the ends flat for 75 cents. That is about as far as I got with it. I need to drill and cut the flat stock for the tabs and have them welded to the tube and weld 2 pieces of Tig Wire to keep the banjo bolts from rolling like in Pyndon's picture.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:50 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by XSoCal View Post
Well whatever I do I better do it soon - had a rock get caught between the tire and low fender yesterday; just scraped things butI can see how it can be worse. Maybe until I get the lines I'll raise the low fender an inch with a few brackets...I will probably be able to use the brackets for the fork guards anyway.
After I saw this little video clip I ran out to figure out how to get the crossover line off of the top of the low fender: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667236

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Old 02-26-2013, 08:04 AM   #18
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After I saw this little video clip I ran out to figure out how to get the crossover line off of the top of the low fender: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667236




Damn that happened unexpectedly fast and hard.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:22 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by biggus View Post
Nobody has come back with any lengths yet. I have a 06 950s so I guess I am just going to have to wing it and bend a piece of wire and see how it looks the measure.
Yeah should be easy enough to figure out. I'd have to go a little shorter on the lower length as I have less travel (non-S).

Quote:
As far as the tube goes I picked up a one meter length of stainless pipe they use to make gun barrels with here in Thailand for 15 bucks. I was lucky that this was the right ID for a M10x1.0 Tap!
That makes sense. Thanks!

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weld 2 pieces of Tig Wire to keep the banjo bolts from rolling like in Pyndon's picture.
What's this referring to?
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:20 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Orangecicle View Post
After I saw this little video clip I ran out to figure out how to get the crossover line off of the top of the low fender: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667236

I saw that too...I've had two accidents on my R1 where I go over the bars, the last one they took me away in an ambulance strapped to a board, so not keen to have it happen again!

As far as the tansfer tube, I don't see the real advantage over a T fitting if the lines are the exact right length to run across the top of the lower triple right after the T. And if the banjo size is M10x1.0 for sure then it could be custom ordered for less than the 990 S split line.
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:05 PM   #21
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I came across something interesting on this that I haven't seen anyone comment on...there is another brakeline available, from the 950 SMR, 6251301200030. It seems to come with a mounted transfer tube already, which would be a great. Anyone tried this, or know the lengths of the line segments?


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Old 06-27-2013, 08:03 PM   #22
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Remember . . . You need some slack for when you whack open the throttle which takes the weight off the front forks etc. Plus, you can have a bigger loop below (bottom of the fork) going to the brake caliper. The loop is no higher than the speedo cable:

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Old 06-28-2013, 12:43 AM   #23
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What is the length of the 2 brake lines on the 990s?

I have a 950 and am looking at making a transfer tube like Pyndon with a single brake line up to the master cylinder.
Just saw this... I have an 06 950s and found that the stock low fender cross-over line is a very good length for the lower hoses. I made a tube like Pyndon and then ordered a custom upper hose.

Find someone who converted their system some other way and get the used line for cheap.

From the mobile...
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:20 AM   #24
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Measuring the running distance from the reservoir to caliper, including enough distance for full suspension travel, I figured that 45-46" would be the perfect length brake line with out bunching up by the gauges. This was including my 1.75" Rox risers and the Renthal RC High bars.

If you choose to go with the right side brake line set up- I found 3 different part numbers for the ADV front brake lines. The lengths range from 1320mm(52") to 1249mm (49") In 2004 the parts fiche lists two different brake line lengths: 1284mm ( 50") for the Adv S model and 1249mm (49") for the Adv model. I just ordered the 49" to try so I will report back how this fits, and if my measurements were accurate.

This is the part# for the 49" OEM brake line:
60013012100 BRAKE HOSE FRONT ADV. 03 97.89 15% 83.21 $83.21
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:08 AM   #25
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Good work!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ABuck99 View Post
Measuring the running distance from the reservoir to caliper, including enough distance for full suspension travel, I figured that 45-46" would be the perfect length brake line with out bunching up by the gauges. This was including my 1.75" Rox risers and the Renthal RC High bars.

If you choose to go with the right side brake line set up- I found 3 different part numbers for the ADV front brake lines. The lengths range from 1320mm(52") to 1249mm (49") In 2004 the parts fiche lists two different brake line lengths: 1284mm ( 50") for the Adv S model and 1249mm (49") for the Adv model. I just ordered the 49" to try so I will report back how this fits, and if my measurements were accurate.

This is the part# for the 49" OEM brake line:
60013012100 BRAKE HOSE FRONT ADV. 03 97.89 15% 83.21 $83.21
Keep us posted!!!
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:09 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by ABuck99 View Post
Measuring the running distance from the reservoir to caliper, including enough distance for full suspension travel, I figured that 45-46" would be the perfect length brake line with out bunching up by the gauges. This was including my 1.75" Rox risers and the Renthal RC High bars.

If you choose to go with the right side brake line set up- I found 3 different part numbers for the ADV front brake lines. The lengths range from 1320mm(52") to 1249mm (49") In 2004 the parts fiche lists two different brake line lengths: 1284mm ( 50") for the Adv S model and 1249mm (49") for the Adv model. I just ordered the 49" to try so I will report back how this fits, and if my measurements were accurate.

This is the part# for the 49" OEM brake line:
60013012100 BRAKE HOSE FRONT ADThV. 03 97.89 15% 83.21 $83.21
Thanks for the info...btw, where did you find fiche with the lengths listed? I've been looking all over, and only found a few that said how long they were.
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:38 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by mcmann View Post
Remember . . . You need some slack for when you whack open the throttle which takes the weight off the front forks etc. Plus, you can have a bigger loop below (bottom of the fork) going to the brake caliper. The loop is no higher than the speedo cable:
Hi mcmann,

I was looking at your ultra cut down low fender posts from a few months back - I was thinking of doing a hybrid setup like that until I got all the parts figured out. Did it work OK for you? I would think having a small part of the fender going over the tire would shave off really thick mud, but not be wide enough to jam the tire. Was that the case?
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:32 AM   #28
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Thanks for the info...btw, where did you find fiche with the lengths listed? I've been looking all over, and only found a few that said how long they were.
Found most of it on KTM950.info, and on Munn Racing's website. Yeah not all model years have the length listed in the parts description.

This is what I have summed up: (Prices listed are MSRP that I found on Munnracing.com)before their discount.

60013012100: 1249mm(49") Brake Hose Front ADV 03 $97.89
60013012000: 1284mm(50") Brake Hose Front ADV-S 03 $92.99
60013012200:50" Brake Hose Front ADV S 05 $89.79 NOTE: (length not listed in my 06 ADV-S USA parts manual. I measured from banjo fitting to banjo fitting and get 50")
6014201000: 1320mm Brake Hose Left 06 $74.39
6011301200033: This is the new style line(s) on the 2011+ R models Brake Hose from 2011 ADV-R $136.39

As the years progress, the prices of each subsequent brake line part code goes down. Looking at the part number succession makes me wonder what the difference is between to 03 S hose & the 05-S- if they are both the same length, what changed? Is the diameter of the hose larger, different vendor ???
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:08 AM   #29
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Hi mcmann,

I was looking at your ultra cut down low fender posts from a few months back - I was thinking of doing a hybrid setup like that until I got all the parts figured out. Did it work OK for you? I would think having a small part of the fender going over the tire would shave off really thick mud, but not be wide enough to jam the tire. Was that the case?

No issues so far . . . No different than running a fork brace (2.5" wide on top). It provides additional support for the lower fork guards . . . Which my brake lines are mounted to. You definitely need to eliminate the cross-over brake line:

Only 2.5" OEM fender remaining:


I have not ran into the real sticky mud yet . . .




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mcmann screwed with this post 06-30-2013 at 04:15 AM
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:50 PM   #30
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No issues so far . . . No different than running a fork brace. It provides additional support for the lower fork guards . . . Which my brake lines are mounted to:

I have not ran into the real sticky mud yet . . .
OK thanks...I decided to go ahead and give it a shot. In case others are debating the same thing, I'll post some pictures here; It's an expensive piece of plastic to take a dremel to so maybe this will help some people decide.

So for me the reason for doing this is just the mud issue: the very first part of this video clip shows my front wheel locking up in some not too deep but sticky mud. Rest of the vid doesn't really relate, but it does show where we ride, so you can see there is lots of mud.



Now, I don't really like the look of the high fender on this bike, but it's a necessity. Also I like keeping body work stock, or at least looking like it came from the factory, if you know what I mean. So with the fork guards not fitting quite right, no lockdown clip on the left guard, things like that made me think about the hybrid. The main problem I've had with the hybrid is the cut off low fender doesn't look quite right, at least not with the high fender I chose, which is smaller than most people use. The high/low set up looks great on the Supermoto, and so I wanted to get that look. After trying many things on Photoshop, I think I hit on a good way to cut it. By leaving a very small forward lip on the fender, cut at the same angle as the high fender, it seems to give it a designed-this-way look.





This trim will cut about half the mud packing area, and next I'm going to trim that back (as I've seen others do) to reduce this further. Then the plan is to actually cut slots in the part of the low fender that is left, to allow any mud that does get in there to exit.

It probably makes more sense to take it off altogether, but I like the fact that I can keep the brake lines and fork guards stock, all you have to buy is the fender, and I do like the way it looks. I'll post more shots as I trim more away.

And thanks for the info ABuck99; I agree the Munn site seems the most complete. And I'll probably eventually do the proper high fender anyway in the long run. I've got two low fenders - the one I'm cutting up is my busted one.
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