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Old 06-28-2013, 11:53 AM   #17491
browneye
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XCRider803 View Post
It's a recall, it's not a matter of if they want to or not. They're required to perform the work and document that it is done for your VIN.
^^ This.

Especially the latter part. Recalls are generally for a safety defect, as is the case on this one. Otherwise they're a service bulletin and/or warranty claim.
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:55 AM   #17492
mcridr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
That has nothing much to do with the screen. The wind comes in around the bottom sides, beneath the screen. Have a look at the Madstad site where they make deflectors to stop that wind hitting you. I copied their deflectors and made some to fit my Palmer set-up. You can see them in this photo. All is calm behind my screen...
Would you by chance have another pic from the front? I too am looking for better wind/noise protection (its an age thing). Both stock shields are marginal at best and I don't need a collection of them hanging on the wall.
Thanks
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Old 06-28-2013, 01:36 PM   #17493
NobeyamaGP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverman View Post
Does anybody have some photos of the Wolfman Rocky Mountain bags mounted on Wolfman racks on the 800XC? Looking for side and rear shots if possible. I understand that the whole setup ends up being 43 inches wide but still would like a photograph or two to see the setup.
Let me know if you need any other views. I just put these on last week and like the setup a lot.


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Old 06-28-2013, 03:40 PM   #17494
slobinski
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The dreaded stalling problem

Has reared its ugly head, starting at the Arctic Circle on the Dempster, Inuvik-bound. I'm back home now, having nursed it along (and cursed it a few times, too). Somewhere here there was a thread describing the fix, which I smugly ignored, thinking that my bike was somehow immune. Wrong.

I've now got the tank and airbox off and am looking at the idle stepper motor, considering vile tortures to the little bastard... Would someone be kind enough to point me in the direction of fixing the little futhyermucker? Seems like it had something to do with cleaning and lubing the plunger or roller??

Thanks.
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:08 PM   #17495
swimmer
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Location: tucson, AZ, It's a dry hate.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slobinski View Post
Has reared its ugly head, starting at the Arctic Circle on the Dempster, Inuvik-bound. I'm back home now, having nursed it along (and cursed it a few times, too). Somewhere here there was a thread describing the fix, which I smugly ignored, thinking that my bike was somehow immune. Wrong.

I've now got the tank and airbox off and am looking at the idle stepper motor, considering vile tortures to the little bastard... Would someone be kind enough to point me in the direction of fixing the little futhyermucker? Seems like it had something to do with cleaning and lubing the plunger or roller??

Thanks.

One fix is simply squirting the stepper motor plunger thing with some lubricant and perhaps cycling the stepper a few times. It would be of interest to most (I think) if you tried this simple fix first so that others would know if they could fix this issue simply in the field.

There was also an issue with the first map program that came on early bikes that created a stalling issue. Is your bike a 2011 that was not updated? You should rule that out first.
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:15 PM   #17496
slobinski
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Thanks for the reply! Mine's a 2012, tune is 20634 and has been problem-free to now. I'll be out in the garage in the morning with compressed air, silicone spray, and whatever else might work.
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:56 PM   #17497
DennyMyBoy
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Chain adjustment at 200 miles?

Recently purchased a new Tiger 800XC. Service manager suggested I bring the bike in at 200 miles for a free chain inspection and adjustment. Am at that mileage right now. Trying to decide if it is worth the few hour time commitment, or if there is no need and I should just wait until 500 miles for the break-in service that also includes an oil change.

It's my first non-shaft bike in 15+ years, so I confess I've forgotten most of what I once knew about frequency of chain adjustment.

I imagine the owners manual speaks to this also.

From your experience will the chain need any attention at 200 miles?

Thanks!
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:33 PM   #17498
XCRider803
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Charlotte area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyMyBoy View Post
Recently purchased a new Tiger 800XC. Service manager suggested I bring the bike in at 200 miles for a free chain inspection and adjustment. Am at that mileage right now. Trying to decide if it is worth the few hour time commitment, or if there is no need and I should just wait until 500 miles for the break-in service that also includes an oil change.

It's my first non-shaft bike in 15+ years, so I confess I've forgotten most of what I once knew about frequency of chain adjustment.

I imagine the owners manual speaks to this also.

From your experience will the chain need any attention at 200 miles?

Thanks!
For the first 200 to 500 miles the chain will stretch the most, after that not much at all if you keep it clean and lubed. Heck, if you're inclined take the freebie and then check again at 5 or 6 hundred, after that it's regular maintenance.
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:46 PM   #17499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyMyBoy View Post
From your experience will the chain need any attention at 200 miles?
I have adjusted my chain at around 400 miles once, then not until I mounted a new rear tire at 5,600 miles, haven't had to adjust it since then. I am at ~10,200 miles now. I expect it to go another 8k to 10k miles without moving all too much.

Meaning: it will stretch a little bit in the beginning when everything settles in. After that it might not stretch at all for most of the life of the chain. Once it starts stretching again at more frequent intervals than ~1000 miles, I'm normally ordering the replacement parts and change chain, sprocket, counter sprocket, chain sliders. I normally (haven't done that on the Tiger) take the rear wheel, rear suspension, and swing arm out at that point and clean and lubricate everything properly, then assemble in pretty much like new condition. The benefit of doing it this way is that if you buy a closed chain with the correct length, you don't have to open it.

Have done this a few times on my TransAlps in the 90s. Worked like a charm.

One hint: if you bring it to the dealer for adjustment, check what they have adjusted it to afterwards. Mechanics are human, too, and sometimes they adjust the chain too tight. Make sure it is on the loose end of the recommended values, then everything should be fine for quite a while.
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:47 AM   #17500
blacktiger
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Location: St.Leonards on Sea, England.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
I installed those pegs on mine and had no issue lowering the brake pedal to accommodate the lower foot position.
Maybe your feet don't dangle as much as mine.
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:53 AM   #17501
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcridr View Post
Would you by chance have another pic from the front? I too am looking for better wind/noise protection (its an age thing). Both stock shields are marginal at best and I don't need a collection of them hanging on the wall.
Thanks
Certainly...

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Old 06-29-2013, 04:19 AM   #17502
ducnut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyMyBoy View Post
Recently purchased a new Tiger 800XC. Service manager suggested I bring the bike in at 200 miles for a free chain inspection and adjustment. Am at that mileage right now. Trying to decide if it is worth the few hour time commitment, or if there is no need and I should just wait until 500 miles for the break-in service that also includes an oil change.
On a long-swingarm bike, like this one, it's better to be loose than tight. I don't think it's worth your time. Heck, you can do it yourself very easily, if it really needs it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
One hint: if you bring it to the dealer for adjustment, check what they have adjusted it to afterwards. Mechanics are human, too, and sometimes they adjust the chain too tight. Make sure it is on the loose end of the recommended values, then everything should be fine for quite a while.
I run my 1050 at ~1-3/4". It droops pretty good, but, I've never had an issue.

I've seen road race bikes with more droop than I run. A crew chief told me they're more concerned about geometry than chain slack. They try to swap sprockets around to try to get the slack tighter, with close to the same ratio, but, sometimes don't have time. So long as it's not jumping teeth, they run it. That same guy helped me setup my Daytona suspension. It was night and day difference, using his advice.
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:37 AM   #17503
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
One fix is simply squirting the stepper motor plunger thing with some lubricant and perhaps cycling the stepper a few times. It would be of interest to most (I think) if you tried this simple fix first so that others would know if they could fix this issue simply in the field.

There was also an issue with the first map program that came on early bikes that created a stalling issue. Is your bike a 2011 that was not updated? You should rule that out first.
Mine did it on day two of a very dusty dual sport ride. I just sprayed WD40 into the general area of the stepper motor and the problem was gone for the remainder of the still very dusty four day ride. Knew I'd need a new air filter when I got home so when I had the tank off to replace the filter I cleaned up the stepper motor armature with brake cleaner and applied some dry silicone lube and haven't thought about since.

Will service it next time I'm in there for the filter, next year. Yes I have a UNI pre-filter installed.
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Old 06-29-2013, 01:00 PM   #17504
slobinski
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Stalling problem

I just now got back to working on this. There was surprisingly little dirt/dust on or near the stepper motor, but everything was quite dry. I pushed the rubber boot on the stepper motor up, sprayed it with silicone lubricant, then daubed some silicone dielectric grease on the shaft/armature. Put the rubber boot back in place and squirted the remaining linkage with silicone.

This seems to have done the trick. I've done the start/stop routine about a dozen times and can see the stepper motor operating now. The bike starts immediately and idles every time.

Now if I could just coax my balky DealerTool software into working for more than a minute at a time, a throttle balance is next. Thanks for the advice, all.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:00 PM   #17505
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For those who have thought about handlebar replacement, I just replaced them on my '12 Roadie. Not too bad of a job, just requires a bunch of drilling. Since I run the Triumph accessory heated grips and triumph hand guards I wanted to retain the usage of the threaded inserts in the OEM handlebars, which do a good job of guiding the heated grip wiring as well as provide the outside mount for the hand guards.

I was looking for the highest rise handlebars I could get, while also hoping to bring the grips inward (more narrow). My hope was to gain a bit more pullback beyond the combination of stock bars and 2" Rox Risers. Ideally, if I could find a really tall set of bars I could eliminate the Rox risers altogether. I bought a set of Fly Racing Aero Taper bars, with the highest rise they offered aside from the "50" bars they sell for adults riding small bikes. Unfortunately I found the rise of these bars to be almost identical to the stock bars, and due to an error in my initial measurements I thought I was buying more narrow bars when in fact they are wider. But they have less upsweep, which I found favorable compared to the stock bars. I confirmed this with a test ride today - the fly bars distribute force across the palm of my hand much more evenly, while the stock bars tend to be more loaded to the outside. Even though I knew I would not be keeping these bars on the bike I decided to sacrifice them to work out the best way to drill and fit everything. Here is a photo of the bare handlebars as I was beginning installation:



Here are the two next to each other (fly handlebars mounted, stock handlebars in front):



Tapping the ends of the bars to fit the stock bar end inserts (by the way, the tap size is 16mm x 2.0 for anyone who is interested. The local NAPA warehouse had it in stock for $10, but I could have purchased for $6 online if I was willing to wait):



Installation completed:



You can see in the photos that I had already started drilling the necessary holes in the new bars. I measured the stock bars to determine where all of the holes should be, and drilled them without fitting everything first. This was the wrong way to determine where the holes should be. For the next set of bars I will first tap the ends of the bars, install the bar inserts, temporarily fit the grips and drill the screw holes for the left grip, and then mark the bottom just inside both grips to drill the heated grip wiring exit holes. Once those are drilled I will fit both switch housings on the bars and mark the position of the switch housing locating holes. This will likely yield much more favorable results, since the first switch housing locating hole I drilled for the left switch housing was a bit off.

I've already ordered the replacement set of bars. They are also made by Fly Racing, and are the aforementioned "50" bars. These bars have similar upsweep, almost twice as much rise, similar pullback, and are as narrow as the stock bars (I couldn't find any that are more narrow). I believe I will gain about 1.5" more rise compared to using stock bars with Rox Risers. I should have enough wiring room (aside from the left heated grip wiring, which I will have to extend) and clutch cable room, but the front brake line and throttle cables may be questionable. There's nothing wrong with the Rox risers, but since I decided to change bars anyway I figured I'd try to eliminate them in the process.

I'll post more photos once the next set is installed.
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