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Old 06-27-2013, 09:12 AM   #1
vwboomer OP
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rear brake

I'm heading to CO next Thursday, and it appears my rear brake is mostly non functional. It worked before taking the wheel off for a tire change, the bike sat for two weeks waiting for the tire to show up, now very weak brakes. I tried new pads but no result. It doesn't really build pressure after pumping. I did try reverse bleeding and didn't notice a difference.

Due to time constraints, I may not be able to get a master rebuild kit ordered and installed. Anyone know if they are just orings inside the master, or if they are cup seals?

It's the only thing I can think of to change.
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:12 PM   #2
grant22
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Try doing the more traditional automotive method of bleeding: pump, pump, pump, hold, crack the bleed screw with hose. Repeat this while keeping the res full.

It worked for me. Have a second set of hands tap the caliper and hose while doing this to help knock additional bubbles loose.
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grant22 View Post
Try doing the more traditional automotive method of bleeding: pump, pump, pump, hold, crack the bleed screw with hose. Repeat this while keeping the res full.

It worked for me. Have a second set of hands tap the caliper and hose while doing this to help knock additional bubbles loose.
I did try that method as well, to no avail. In the past when using the old school method I ended up needing to rebuild 2 calipers. Theory being the seals went outside the normal travel in the bore and got knicked. After rebuilding and bleeding the worked perfect.

Picking up a different master after work this morning to try that out.
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:44 AM   #4
Orangecicle
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Do what you can to get that master working. I came down off of Mt. Evans two-up with my sister, and my rear brake failed. The problem was, the front brakes were warped and totally sucked. When you have those big elevation changes on a big heavy bike, you want all the brakes you can get. You might also try to remove the rear caliper and hold it upside down when you first start bleeding from the master. That can assure that you get any water out of the system. What happened to me on Evans was that I heated the rear to the boiling point, and I had water in the fluid. That turned into steam and poof, no brakes.
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:44 PM   #5
benh
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The rear brake on this bike is the most annoying part. My original master was so bad, I bled it and it would stay for awhile but eventually failed. I bought a new master cylinder and after 9 months it has started the same death dance.

I feel like I am constantly bleeding the rear brake and it generally fades quickly. I had a Honda that I only once bled the rear brake only because the fluid was dark....however the brake functioned fine.

I have a theory that since I have a stock exhaust that gets extremely hot especially in traffic on 90 deg day that the seals and fluid are breaking down quicker than expected. Or maybe I just really want an aftermarket exhaust.
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:14 AM   #6
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aftermarket exhaust likely would route the same way anway

I put a whole new used rear assembly on and it works fine. Once I had the old unit off I could see it was wet on the bottom seal of the housing. A rebuild kit will be installed when I return, and the assembly will go back to its rightful owner (thanks CJ!)

I also picked up a Rekluse. Oops!
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