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Old 03-12-2013, 01:08 PM   #46
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Chain Adjustment

Thanks to Regina Chain:

The chain will be tightest when the three pivots line up in a straight line

The countershaft, the swingarm shaft and the rear axle. If you can compress your suspension to that point and verify there is still a bit of slack you'll know you have it right. Then release the suspension and see what it needs to be when the suspension is unloaded and make a mental note or take measurements



1 First of all, the chain must be placed at its maximum tension condition. This condition will occur whenever the engine and wheel sprockets are at the maximum distance from each other.

To obtain this, it is generally necessary to load the back wheel (for example placing a person on the motorcycle) until the centers of the engine sprocket, the swingarm pivot and the rear wheel axle have been positioned on the same axis. The swinging arm will be parallel to the ground.

http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_an...how_to05.shtml

More pics and info, thanks to TrophyHunter:
http://www.dualsportmoto.com/boards/....php?f=12&t=43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 08-13-2013 at 11:31 AM
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Old 03-14-2013, 05:24 PM   #47
DR650DG
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Transmission help!

So my 97 DR650se simply would not shift down into 3rd gear, so I immediately took it in. Just to keep the story straight, from the time the bike had the issue to the time I dropped it off was no more then 10 miles. I didn't break 35 mph in second gear.
First the shop told me they were needing to inspect the transmission since the problem didn't present itself easily, so I gave permission to open the engine and do a proper inspection with an estimate of 500 + dollars. Next I get a call two weeks later and the shop tells me its going to need a long list of parts to rebuild the transmission and it would cost 2400 dollars to fix. WOW!
I payed $380 dollars and took my disassemble engine and the rest of her home to start doing some research.
It has been 3 weeks and I finally have the time to do my own inspection of the transmission that they explained to me as being messed up.
What I cant figure out is the gears they wanted me to replace seem in great condition, yet my experience with gears are bicycle gears and it is easy to tell when it is time to replace them. Actually all the parts the shop suggested I needed to replace seem good. WTF.
Here I sit thinking the worst with this situation especially since the problem seemed so small. I need some help and I will start by going back to the shop and ask them to convince me that the parts are damaged.
My first question is....IF a shop needed to replace the 4th drive gear on my bike, what kind of damage on the gear could I expect to see?
Here are all the parts they said I needed to replace:
4th drive gear
bushing 4/5
5th drive gear
3rd pinion circlip
1st driven gear
3rd pinion circlip
3rd driven gear
3rd/4th dr bush
4th driven gear
5th driven gear
Fork, gear shift fork (1,2,3)
Shaft gear shift x 2
Cam gear shift
plate gear shift
Kev High pref. clutch Disc set
...
This is most of the transmission and routine parts for the rebuild like gaskets and plugs.

Ill check the shop tomorrow.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:21 AM   #48
DR650DG
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Visit to the shop

After talking to the technician about my transmission problem mentioned before, he educated me about the damage he was able to notice that was likely causing the shifting issues. He explained that there wasn't any single part that was the issue, but rather the combination of many parts showing significant wear and tear that was likely the problem. I decided to buy a new 2013 bike and move on. Therefore my 97 650 is for sale on Craigslist. In time I hope to sell it for $1000. I will be looking for a used engine in the meantime in case it doesn't sell.
I need a used 97 DR650 engine to get this bike running again. PLEASE HELP!
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:38 AM   #49
sandwash
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Any 96 to present engine will work.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:38 PM   #50
DR650DG
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Engine for 97DR650

if any engine will do, then would I need to have some metal fabrication work done to the frame to make it fit? Has anyone done this to their DR 650? The shop told me a new year would need fab work on the frame to work.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:06 PM   #51
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650DG View Post
if any engine will do, then would I need to have some metal fabrication work done to the frame to make it fit? Has anyone done this to their DR 650? The shop told me a new year would need fab work on the frame to work.
1996-2013 is identical. No fab work at all...
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:20 PM   #52
DR650DG
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Then where can I find a used engine?

Anyone know of a good contact in Northern California?
I would love to talk to someone knowledgeable with this issue of mine and get this bike running again soon. Fortunately I have a new bike to ride, so my motivation is simply to rebuild this bike with a newer engine, and get this bike sold to someone in need of a great ride.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:46 AM   #53
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650DG View Post
if any engine will do, then would I need to have some metal fabrication work done to the frame to make it fit? Has anyone done this to their DR 650? The shop told me a new year would need fab work on the frame to work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650DG View Post
Anyone know of a good contact in Northern California?
I would love to talk to someone knowledgeable with this issue of mine and get this bike running again soon. Fortunately I have a new bike to ride, so my motivation is simply to rebuild this bike with a newer engine, and get this bike sold to someone in need of a great ride.
Your shop are wrong ... any DR650 motor from '96 to 2013 will fit perfectly in any DR frame frame from ALL those years.

I'm in San Rafael. Best course to find another engine is probably buying a crashed DR ... or find an older one cheap. Engines alone rarely come up.
But I would be searching Craig's List nationwide and try to find one. But shipping a motor cross country are NOT CHEAP!

About two months ago a guy had a fairly beat up early DR650 for sale right here in San Rafael for $1200. So, once in a while good deals come along.
I don't have the skill to rebuild a DR motor and I don't know anyone who does outside of an actual shop. If a shop does it, figure 8 to 10 hours of labor ... at somewhere around $75 to $90 per hour.

A crashed bike might be your best bet. Something with a crunched frame but where the engine is still OK. Good luck in your search.
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:03 PM   #54
DR650DG
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Thank you Adv Grifter

I will be searching for a crashed bike or craigslist. I have clarity that I will not be rebuilding the engine. SO far I have not heard any great stories about doing so, especially with the number of parts that need to be replaced. I am in the dark with that one!
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:37 PM   #55
Krusty ... OP
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If you've ever wanted to ditch those clutch cables in favor of clutching hydraulically, 2laneblacktop has put up a thread detailing the swap:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=873137
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:21 PM   #56
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650DG View Post
if any engine will do, then would I need to have some metal fabrication work done to the frame to make it fit? Has anyone done this to their DR 650? The shop told me a new year would need fab work on the frame to work.
Find a better shop.

Better yet, get a service manual from www.procycle.us, and a set of sockets, and swap the motors yourself.
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:55 AM   #57
basketcase
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Parts swapping is parts swapping. I would be fairly comfortable swapping motors -- in a sense it's not so different from changing tires.

But an outright rebuild, or, the installation of one of the big valve heads or the big bore kit from Procycle would be different.

How difficult is the build, and what special tools are needed, for those chores?
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:57 PM   #58
ER70S-2
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Cam Chain Tensioner

Quote:
Seacraft69:
+1 ER70-S. Also set the engine to top dead center before removing the tensioner.

Mikem1983:
Do you have to put the motor at TDC ? The service manual doesn't mention this and you're not the first to give me this advice? Can you educate me on why?

MxRob:
Having the motor at TDC of the compression stroke removes all tension against the cam lobes by the valves springs. This allows the tensioner to full extend when it is placed back in position because there will be no load on the cam shaft. The tensioner does not have the power to overcome the reverse tension placed on it by valve springs so there is a chance of starting your engine with excess slop in the front run of the cam chain if you attempt to install it with a load on the chain.
Don't do this project when you're in a hurry, even though the gasket is small, it's a PITA to remove; mine was fused to the cylinder. And you really don't want to gouge the gasket surface. You'll need to remove the oil lines and exhaust header so there's room to work.

Before reinstalling the CCT, the plunger needs to be retracted. There's a retract screw, under the screw on the left end. Turn it CW to retract the plunger, it should latch. If it doesn't latch, just hold the plunger screw as you tighten the two CCT bolts. The plunger will NOT retract when pushed straight in; you have to keep the pressure off the plunger as you tighten the CCT.

Once it's installed, turn the retract screw CCW to release the plunger.

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Even though they are supposed to lock, my experience has been that only 1 out of 3 will lock securely enough to install without it extending before you get it all the way on.

The retract screw lives in here:





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2004 DR650: 59,809 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-22-2013 at 01:45 PM
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:44 AM   #59
newride
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stock front sproket

Hello all,
was wondering if someone had a picture of their new stock front sprocket installed with a circlip (procycle version) and what bolts they chose to put on. Thank you!!
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:50 AM   #60
M1Jeep
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Hi. Bolts aren't used if you opt to use the circlip. Slip on the sprocket and secure it with the circlip.

The OEM retaining plate isn't used either if you use the circlip.
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