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Old 06-23-2013, 06:25 PM   #31
Rapid Dog OP
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Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Droptarotter View Post
Hey Randy;
Make sure the chain adjuster are not seized. ...!
We you were right on this one! one adjuster was tight but git it out.
The other wouldn't come out with an air wrench. Smoked a socket, then the heads all finally stripped.
Tried cutingg and drilling. No go, them arre hardened bolts.
So this swingarm is toast.

Wheel bearings are all near frozen.

I need a front wheel and a swingarm now if you know anyone....
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:19 AM   #32
GR0NK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
We you were right on this one! one adjuster was tight but git it out.
The other wouldn't come out with an air wrench. Smoked a socket, then the heads all finally stripped.
Tried cutingg and drilling. No go, them arre hardened bolts.
So this swingarm is toast.

Wheel bearings are all near frozen.

I need a front wheel and a swingarm now if you know anyone....
That's too bad. For future reference, use heat to get them out if they are stubborn.(MAP torch works best, Propane is marginal) If you get the plug out you can get a welding shop to TIG a new threaded bung in there. The other option is a used swingarm. I have gotten a few off KTMtalk classifieds for under $100. Make sure it's the correct year as the swingarm bolt changed in 03.



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Old 06-25-2013, 07:29 AM   #33
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Oh yeah, toss the stock chain guide too, or at least remove the aluminum casing. If you smack a rock and bend it, it will stay that way. You'd be surprised how fast Delrin will wear out the steel chain plates. You could lose the master link and then one of two things happens. Either the chain comes off nicely and doesn't damage anything (10% chance) or it gets wrapped around the front sprocket and takes the cases out with it. (90% chance) The BRP and TM Design (like the front rub pad on your bike) are the best IMO. Also, speaking of chains coming off, I only see the stock knock down bar over the front sprocket. That alone will not always save the engine cases should the chain come off. Get a proper case saver that bolts over the clutch slave. It's cheap insurance.



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Old 06-25-2013, 08:40 AM   #34
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I'll look into that. So you're saying just replace the chain gguide with an aftermarket then?
I sourced a swingarm, on it's way. Hopefully won't have to replace all the bearings.

Next question, where are the coolant drain plugs on this bike.
Coolant looks clean and clear (yellow) but I thought I'd flush it a few times and use ICE in it.
No fan on this bike (yet).
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:08 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
I'll look into that. So you're saying just replace the chain gguide with an aftermarket then?
Yes. It's just a matter of time before the aluminum cage gets hammered and you end up trashing a chain or worse. Just cutting the aluminum cage off works too as I have done that on my woods bike. Keep up to about an inch down from the bolt holes and remove the bottom. That way you don't need to find shorter bolts and you get a bit of bracing.

Quote:
I sourced a swingarm, on it's way. Hopefully won't have to replace all the bearings.
The needle bearings are not captured. If you remove the bolt from the swingarm and they are dry, they will all fall out. Make sure you capture them and use sticky bearing grease (marine preferably) to hold them in for reassembly after you've cleaned them and the races.

Quote:
Next question, where are the coolant drain plugs on this bike.
Coolant looks clean and clear (yellow) but I thought I'd flush it a few times and use ICE in it.
No fan on this bike (yet).
Right side of the motor on the cylinder head (rightnext to the ADC) is a lonely 8mm bolt. That is the lower drain bolt. It's a bit of a PITA though because you will take it out and coolant will dribble out and run along the engine. Then you open the rad cap and then it pisses out, missing the bucket you're using to try and save it. LOL. Get a friend, open the rad cap first, then the lower drain bolt, get as much of it as you can. If it has a lot of debris in it, best to replace it all. I use water wetter in my 540 with the factory 1.4bar rad cap. I had bought a 1.8bar cap but never needed it. The 400 runs cool enough you likely won't need the fan.

When you fill the system, open the bleed bolt on the top of the right side rad. Bike level, fill through rad cap until it comes out of that hole and put the bolt back in. You may have to bleed it again as it warms up just in case there is any trapped air somewhere.



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GR0NK screwed with this post 06-29-2013 at 03:48 PM
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:01 PM   #36
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You may want to have a go through This thread. I know it's about setting up the EXC bikes for adventure type riding but it really has all the same info about the different upgrades and farkles you would want regardless of what you intend to do with the bike.



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Old 06-27-2013, 01:57 PM   #37
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Randy;
Drill a 1/8 drain hole in the rear of the new swing arm just in front of the cast axle hanger.


These swing arms seem to make water, so the hole will allow the water to drain???

Never sieze the adjuster bolts.

Since your front wheel bearings are toast......along with bearings and seals, get some nice stainless seal spacers as the new seals will eat the stock aluminum parts.

The other reason the ECU unit was moved under the seat is if you have a real hard crash, the forks can come in and crush the ECU.
If you have already moved it back, just don't fall off!!

Keep the questions coming............these are great bikes!!

Cheers
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:19 AM   #38
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soon come

....well, I have moved the ECU back to the stock postion, but I may put it back above the aairbox, need to make a proper bracket. Just seems kind of a dirty (oily) place to have it.

Now, got a nice OEM front wheel with good bearings.
That's set.

New wheel bearings going in tomorrow. Hope to get the wheels/tires sorted in the next couple days.

I found a very nice swingarm on eBay, greased up bearings and nice loose adjusters. That should be done too.

Need to find a good container to make the overflow dealie-bob.

Should make alot of progress.

Got a real good response over at KTMTalk:

Quote:
FS-Racing 4 Strokes - caflash
My suggestion of a bigger top end is to prevent the same broken inner clutch side exhaust valve spring that happened to mine from revving the weaker 02 valve springed engine to pull my wifeís weight in soft ground in the desert in all the upper gears. Most donít break so donít panic.

Same time replace the intakes with kibble whites and the screw adjusters if cupped.
The factory replaced the smaller wire diameter valve springs in 03 and they are unbreakable.

Cheap mods for the bike now are to drill the swingarm to help drain water out of it and to rejet the carb with an ocemn at the fourth or fifth clip down position from Sudco, 48 pilot, 162 main.

Most springs did not break but if you rev it really hard for long enough a percentage did.

Make sure the crank vent hose is routed to the carb, or the cb bearing can and do rust and the failure can be terminal. I have purchased a half dozen engines with valve spring and/or cb bearings seizure over the years.

Use never seize on the adjuster bolts on the swingarm


If you pull one of the inner sleeves on the swingarm bearings and the grease is black and/or smells bad the bearing needs re-greasing.

I hold the swingarm in a vise with the swingarm pivot holes vertical.
Under the bearing i put a catch container and carefully push the inner sleeve and the needles into the catch container. One side at a time.

Gas clean the parts with a stiff brush. Place new grease into the outer race still in the swingarm and carefully replace the needle into the outer race until totally full.

Then reinstall the inner bushing.
The new swingarm appears to have dark grease. Most would not repack things before they sell stuff.
Dirty job, but necessary.


If the engine is noisy the primary gear normally needs re- torqueing. If itís still noisy, the clutch center hub may have worn loose on the mainshaft. Any play and its noisy. At the same time replace the two needle bearings on the mainshaft for the clutch outer hub. If not rocking at all, then not necessary.

Easy install on the hub as a circlip holds it together.

My wifeís Ď02 400 had no Loctite on the stator to igniton cover bolts and vibrated loose. You need 243 Blue oil resistant Loctite for the inner engine parts, and a $10 Harbor Freight 1/4 inch drive torque wrench.

Last thing is to ohm the blue female connector coming up from the ignition cover.
New was 15.8 ohms. Most short out and at 13 ohms the bike is harder to start and loses power at top revs.
I have newer non fail OEM stators for 1/2 of the retail price in the ads if you need one.

Check the countershaft splines at the sprocket for wear and dings and the sprocket loosens.

Not fixable without a case split.

Use KTM OEM sprockets as their hardness matches the shaft better and won't damage the shaft as easily.
13/53 gearing worked but does wear the chainslider so start with a new one. Cheap.

Keep the twin pipe exhaust as it works very well.
Just looks bad after throwing mud on it.

I replaced the suspension with 05 and up front and rear. The original is less than good. Not fixable.

Then a later front rim with the 26mm axle can be fit and make the bike steer better in the rocks.


Great bike with the issues handled, runs forever if everything is done.

RFS DOCBOB

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Old 06-28-2013, 10:34 AM   #39
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...now, anyone have the base settings for the suspension on this bike?
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'81 R100RS Rattlecandy Red/'06 950 ADV Orangeboom/91 R100GSPD Derelict

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Old 06-29-2013, 03:43 PM   #40
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Randy;
I will get the settings for you from the owners manual once I go down to the shop.........drop me a pm if you don't hear from me in a couple of days.

Cheers
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:26 AM   #41
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...thanks 'trot, got'em over at KTM talk:

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Old 07-03-2013, 04:33 PM   #42
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Question torque specs

Now I need storque specs for these items:

top tripletree pinch bolts
swingarm pivot nut
lower shock mount nut
front and rear axle nuts
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'09 450 EXC Nani Roma Limited/'08 R1200R-Gone to the Hipsters/'02 Dirty lil KTM400EXC-gone to a good home/'10 WR290X/R buhbye!
'81 R100RS Rattlecandy Red/'06 950 ADV Orangeboom/91 R100GSPD Derelict

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Old 07-03-2013, 04:48 PM   #43
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Thumb specs

...Dang!, looky what I found!

http://www.gobookee.net/200-ktm-400-sx-specifications/

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Old 07-03-2013, 10:40 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
...thanks 'trot, got'em over at KTM talk:

Good, because I forgot
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Old 07-06-2013, 05:03 PM   #45
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Thumb July4thandfiished

...she's done, and I'm good with it. Past the test with flyin' colors today...
Back2Orange and happy.








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'81 R100RS Rattlecandy Red/'06 950 ADV Orangeboom/91 R100GSPD Derelict

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