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Old 07-03-2013, 03:09 PM   #1111
RidingDonkeys
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Being a liquid cooled bike, I don't think you'll have to worry about running hot.

I also don't think the temps will affect the lean condition. Unlike carbs, which are calibrated for a specific environment, an EFI system is going to recalculate constantly. Since it inherently runs lean at one temp, it will adjust itself to keep that lean mixture at all temps and elevations.

Sent from the voices in my head and transcribed by their drinking buddy...
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:31 PM   #1112
Northern TerraTory
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[QUOTE=RidingDonkeys;21784983]Being a liquid cooled bike, I don't think you'll have to worry about running hot.

I also don't think the temps will affect the lean condition. Unlike carbs, which are calibrated for a specific environment, an EFI system is going to recalculate constantly. Since it inherently runs lean at one temp, it will adjust itself to keep that lean mixture at all temps and elevations.

Sent from the voices in my head and transcribed by their drinking buddy...[/QUOTE/]

Ah yes, that makes sense. Hopefully the problem has been ironed out by now. We will see. Thanks for the reply mate.
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:39 PM   #1113
trapperj
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[QUOTE=Northern TerraTory;21785165]
Quote:
Originally Posted by RidingDonkeys View Post
Being a liquid cooled bike, I don't think you'll have to worry about running hot.

I also don't think the temps will affect the lean condition. Unlike carbs, which are calibrated for a specific environment, an EFI system is going to recalculate constantly. Since it inherently runs lean at one temp, it will adjust itself to keep that lean mixture at all temps and elevations.

Sent from the voices in my head and transcribed by their drinking buddy...[/QUOTE/]

Ah yes, that makes sense. Hopefully the problem has been ironed out by now. We will see. Thanks for the reply mate.
The problem won't go away without doing something about it. It's lean. One of the piggyback gizmos will fix it pretty much. I'd locate one and put it on right away..my 2cents.
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Old 07-03-2013, 04:40 PM   #1114
BigDogAdventures
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern TerraTory View Post
correct me if I'm wrong, but the booster plug tricks the bike into believing the ambient temp is higher than it really is?

t.
No the booster plug makes the bikes fuel injection think it's about 32° F cooler.

ON an 80° day---------the temp readout on my dash will read about 48°F----approximately. And somewhere a little cooler than that--------the little snowflake freeze warning thingy will start flashing. But you can barely see that thing and it's not irritating at all.
Now the high beam indicator light------now that is irritating.

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Old 07-03-2013, 06:04 PM   #1115
mxbundy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
After lightly glueing the foam in place on the seat pan, its time to put the vinyl cover on.

Make sure you buy some of this Silicone aerosol spray:



It was recommended in the YouTube video by Seat Concepts, but they also said you could get by without it. I donno...

I practiced stretching the cover before applying lubricant. It was definitely easier to manipulate, stretch, & eliminate wrinkles with the silicone. So, I suggest going that route, for sure. I sprayed a thin layer all over the foam, as well as the bottom side of the vinyl.



And, loosely fit the cover over the foam to get it aligned & centered.



Now, its time to get after it…..stretch the cover over the front of the seat first….fairly tight….securing with about 4 staples underneath the nose.

Next, stretch it over the very rear…..again, fairly tight…..and put about three staples under the backside.

It won't look so very good at this point yet. But its about to start taking shape when you tack down the two sides at the center like this:



I'm pulling it down and rearward to stretch & work the wrinkles out of the nose. Take your time and don't get frustrated. You'll figure out a method after a little bit of practice with it. I discovered I could help smooth out the wrinkles with one hand, while pulling tension with the other.

So, tack it at the nose….tail…..and each side (in the middle) in that order. Kind of like making 4 corners to the cover wrap.

You have to stretch it, then pinch it tight and hold it securely while you pop in a few more staples:



Slowly fill in all the gaps (between the 4 corners)….3 or 4 staples on this side…..then 3 or 4 staples on the other side. Little by little, zig-zagging around the perimeter back & forth, until it all comes together nicely.



The rear of the seat should be the last portion you finish. And, you have to work it a fair bit, stretching & folding over some excess to get it tight and tucked out of the way. It surprising, but in very little time you'll have a nice looking custom cover.









I thought I might have stretched it too tight, but I didn't. I just worked it to the point that all the wrinkles were gone. As soon as I took my first ride, I knew it was perfect. I can just pinch up a little slack in the material with some firm finger pressure on the top of the seat.

When you're happy with it, flip the seat over and trim off the excess material around the staples. Use a brand new razor blade in your utility knife, and its a fairly easy task.





Most of the photos showing the new staples were taken after I finished trimming the excess material, so it doesn't look like it needs a haircut. But, these last two photos show what the actual trim margin was.

In a few spots, I just held a single razor blade between my fingers while I trimmed some tight curvy spots. Either way, BE CAREFUL not to slip or cut the cover vinyl accidentally in the wrong place.

Also, you have to carefully notch out this part which slips over the frame anchor points on each side at the front:



That's it…..go ride!


Q: What was the most contentious part of the whole process?

A: Figuring out where to properly install the staples into my pneumatic gun!

I'll spare you the details, and suffice to say the Instructions with the gun were lacking.

Here is where those stinkers go:



There is a trigger lever at the rear of the handle which releases the staple tray to slide backward. You simply drop the staples into the slot on bottom and snap it all back together. Now then, let's don't talk about all the ways I tried and couldn't make it work……and just say we did.

HF

p.s. a day later, I bought a little tube of Super Glue and tacked down some of the loose edges of material around the bottom side. Figured that might help prevent it from snagging on something while taking the seat on or off the bike many times. Just another personal preference. I didn't see this mentioned anywhere. Just dreamed it up on my lonesome. BUT you probably shouldn't do that. Bet it would void your warranty and rot your foam.

p.s. 2 if I can do it, then you can to!
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May want to refer customers to this post!!!!

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Old 07-03-2013, 11:06 PM   #1116
robbieb83
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Looks like an edited version High Five's Wuka install has been used by High Tech Coonass on the Wuka King web page.

http://wukaking.com/husqvarna-650-installation.html

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Old 07-04-2013, 02:07 AM   #1117
Northern TerraTory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbieb83 View Post
Looks like an edited version High Five's Wuka install has been used by High Tech Coonass on the Wuka King web page.

http://wukaking.com/husqvarna-650-installation.html

Yeah, noticed that myself today.
Just got my new baby home. Couple of things I noticed before it got to dark, I got the toolkit, and that heavy bracket that holds on the license plate is no more. It's bolted straight to the mudguard. Maybe it's always been this way in Australia? Not sure.
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:16 AM   #1118
davorallyfan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern TerraTory View Post
Yeah, noticed that myself today.
Just got my new baby home. Couple of things I noticed before it got to dark, I got the toolkit, and that heavy bracket that holds on the license plate is no more. It's bolted straight to the mudguard. Maybe it's always been this way in Australia? Not sure.

Nup earlier OZ bikes did not get it. You are just lucky. The B&B effect on temp - nup. I have ridden tight stop start stuff on 40c days no prob. Ive done 12,000km on mine.

I just got the magic wires delivered.



No instructions really ...but I think I get it. It will be on top of the MOSS


Where do I mount the switch - any suggestions (be polite)?

Also with temps at my place ranging from -8c to 40c when do you switch from one mode to the other... or is it just on / off?
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Old 07-04-2013, 04:27 AM   #1119
Northern TerraTory
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Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
Nup earlier OZ bikes did not get it. You are just lucky. The B&B effect on temp - nup. I have ridden tight stop start stuff on 40c days no prob. Ive done 12,000km on mine.

I just got the magic wires delivered.



No instructions really ...but I think I get it. It will be on top of the MOSS


Where do I mount the switch - any suggestions (be polite)?

Also with temps at my place ranging from -8c to 40c when do you switch from one mode to the other... or is it just on / off?
Hey mate, did you source the Wuka kit in Oz, or get it from the US? Checked their website today, about $120 Aus delivered. Or is it a booster plug? Pardon my ignorance, but this is a stupid questions thread! I know for the Wuka there is two options, one Hot/Cold and the other has no switch. Check the Wuka King Performance products website for details.

Not sure if my dealer will have the moss, haven't asked them yet, but I doubt it, not enough demand up here I reckon.

Northern TerraTory screwed with this post 07-04-2013 at 05:07 AM
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:07 AM   #1120
Nev..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
Nup earlier OZ bikes did not get it. You are just lucky. The B&B effect on temp - nup. I have ridden tight stop start stuff on 40c days no prob. Ive done 12,000km on mine.

I just got the magic wires delivered.



No instructions really ...but I think I get it. It will be on top of the MOSS


Where do I mount the switch - any suggestions (be polite)?
I threaded mine out through a gap above the radiator, behind the headlight and the switch is just jammed between the dash and the screen for now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
Also with temps at my place ranging from -8c to 40c when do you switch from one mode to the other... or is it just on / off?
Now, according to the blurb, the hot position will reduce the temp by 18F and the cold position will reduce the temp by 36F but it seems on a bike with temp measured in Celcius the temp is adjusted by 18C and 36C which I think is probably a bit much. On the cold setting I think the bike is running too rich, it will almost idle off the mark in 1st gear with no throttle. I think I will just leave mine on the hot setting all year round.
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:19 AM   #1121
Northern TerraTory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nev.. View Post
I threaded mine out through a gap above the radiator, behind the headlight and the switch is just jammed between the dash and the screen for now.



Now, according to the blurb, the hot position will reduce the temp by 18F and the cold position will reduce the temp by 36F but it seems on a bike with temp measured in Celcius the temp is adjusted by 18C and 36C which I think is probably a bit much. On the cold setting I think the bike is running too rich, it will almost idle off the mark in 1st gear with no throttle. I think I will just leave mine on the hot setting all year round.
Well that's interesting, sure goes against some theories that it is just resistors in series with the thermometer. Not sure what could be in there that would change the properties depending if your bike was set to celcius or Fahrenheit and still have the same numerical values? But I'm certainly no electronics expert!
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:53 AM   #1122
Chuffa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nev.. View Post
but it seems on a bike with temp measured in Celcius the temp is adjusted by 18C and 36C which I think is probably a bit much
Sounds odd, but you can always change the default temp to F instead of C without changing the other display settings. Easy thing to check & who looks at the temp display anyway?
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:51 AM   #1123
njoytheride
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Another fine write up Mr. Highfive. Been looking at a few options on seat modifcations, looks like that would do what needed done.
Glad to see some Aussie's . Tag name is Terra -rific.. When i catch some serious air I feel like a ......wait for it ..
p-Terra-dactyl .........oh ya..
Anyway, put the Wuka kit on and am quite pleased with the results. Still need to experiment some duing different seasons and elevations but much improved performance.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:31 AM   #1124
RidingDonkeys
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I did a thread on this over at CH, but figured it was appropriate here too since many ADVers don't frequent CH.

So you want a Terra and can't find one. Or, you want a Terra with ABS, and it isn't sold in the US. Or, you've found a Strada cheaper than a Terra, and now you are confused. Either way, there is a solution. There has been a lot of talk about this for a while, so I figured it deserved a dedicated thread. This is the how-to on creating your own Terra-fied Strada.

You start with this, a stock Strada. First, you remove the decals, because they suck.




The Terra and the Strada are the same bike underneath. Outside of the ABS, everything else is bolt on. So you'll need to order a series of parts. I will update this list with part numbers once I get it all sorted out. A few of the part numbers we used were incorrect, and had to be rectified. I don't want anyone else to make the same mistake. Even when I get them up, please verify them before ordering.

21" Spoke Wheel Assembly
21" Front Tube and Tire

17"/18" Spoke Wheel Assembly (Both are available. I went 17" for tire selection)
17"/18" Rear tube and tire

High front fender

Fork guard assemblies

And that is all you really need. This is assuming you'll be recycling your brake discs onto the new spoke wheels. If you want a true convertible bike, you'll need to order a spare set of discs and ABS sensor rings. However, bolting the discs up only takes a few minutes, and most people aren't likely switch wheels frequently, if ever at all.

You could skip the fork guard assemblies, but they hold the cables in place, as seen below. Zip ties work too, but the guards are only $7. This was an oversight, and my guards are now on order. I'm currently using the zip tie method. This is what right looks like, on a Terra.



When it is all said and done, you'll end up with something like this.










Now you'll probably want to add some accessories. The Strada is compatible with almost everything that you can get for the Terra. In the photos, I have SW-Motech crash bars and skid plate attached with no issues. There is one notable exception to compatibility: handguards. I prefer Barkbusters. They are strong and aerodynamically stable at speed. However, the ABS system gets in the way of a Barkbuster install. It fits, but barely, and in the event of a crash, the mount could take out your brakes if it flexed. My work around was a mount from Moose Racing that is designed to go under cable assemblies.

This is the part number:


And here it is mounted.






So that is a Terra-fied Strada in a nutshell. Once again, I'll add exact part numbers once I verify them all.
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:10 PM   #1125
snailrider
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You still need to paint it red
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