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Old 07-01-2013, 08:44 AM   #1891
WVhillbilly
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Stabil, Seafoam and a few other products help a lot with the crap ethanol fuel issues.
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:26 PM   #1892
vetsurginc
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And your right. They do like to run, not sit. I'm fortunate that I can get straight fuel locally and the bike loves it. Had my GearUp for a year now and no carb problems or water problems (as in rode 100 km in a downpour so bad I had to pull off for ten minutes until viz got better than one car length - held speeds up to 50 mph in that mess, never missed a beat ).

With a large number of bikes, wouldn't it be worth getting a load of non-ethanol/race fuel to load when they have to sit? Stabil and other products help, but ultimately can't stop the ethanol degradation.
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:29 PM   #1893
WVhillbilly
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Race gas is worth the extra money if you can get it.
Not only for the octane (a Ural may not care) but for far less headaches in the long run.
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:51 AM   #1894
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Don't buy one, your monkey will be constantly grinning and wanna go riding all the time.

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Old 07-03-2013, 03:54 AM   #1895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVhillbilly View Post
Stabil, Seafoam and a few other products help a lot with the crap ethanol fuel issues.
I am not a fan of ethanol but I have never had any ethanol related problems with any of my gasoline powered vehicles or equipment.
Don't need race fuel in my Ural.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:16 AM   #1896
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Do any of your bikes sit for 3-4 months at a time?
If not, then you won't have any problems.

The only hi octane, non ethanol fuel I can buy in my area. That was why i mentioned it.

One place near me sells regular non ethanol gas, it is 90 octane.
They just started selling it, and it is the only thing they run out of before the next delivery.

I started buying it for my mowers and such.

OK, fuel hi jack over. Back to telling me why I shouldn't buy a Ural.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:02 AM   #1897
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Some of my vehicles/equipment sits six months with no issues since I live in FL and NC. Of course I have used Stabil with ethanol and non ethanol fuel for years.
BTW I bought a ethanol tester and have been testing fuel in WNC.
So far three tests of premium up to 10% ethanol have shown 0% ethanol.
Regular up to 10% tested at two station have shown 10% ethanol.
Two places that sell non ethanol fuel tested 0%.
Get one of the tester from Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111101780679...84.m1439.l2649
Simple thing but appears to work just fine.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:08 PM   #1898
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Ditto Barnone.

Most Canadians let their bikes sit for about the same time. I regularly use marine grade Stabil, or SeaFoam, when storing my bike and the carbs are fine....not sure what they would be like if I didn't, but I always use a stabilizer of some sort.

Thanks for the tester link!! I am going to snap one up!


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Old 07-03-2013, 05:16 PM   #1899
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I wonder if ambient humidity has bearing on the lifespan of ethanol. My understanding is that part of the chemical reaction that causes breakdown is with moisture in the air.

In my experience there's a strong correlation between how airtight a vehicle's fuel system is and how long the fuel lasts. My BMW's and other bikes with fuel pumps and closed venting systems never have problems with fuel going bad. It seems to be an affliction that primarily affects carburetor bikes and Urals are the worst offenders of all.

I've had seven of them ranging in vintage from 1995 to 2003 and they've all skunked their fuel tank in short order if you don't put a fuel stabilizer in it and eventually anyway even if you do. My theory is that there is too much air circulation between the fuel tank and the ambient air.
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:20 PM   #1900
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On my carbed bikes I either run the carb dry or drain the float bowl.
The other is EFI and probably not as vulnerable to getting moisture in the system.

I have a Suzuki Samuai that has not run in a long time now due to E10 gas.
I've replaced all the fuel lines, pump and still need to replace the carb as it is ruined.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:59 PM   #1901
eastbloc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVhillbilly View Post
On my carbed bikes I either run the carb dry or drain the float bowl.
The other is EFI and probably not as vulnerable to getting moisture in the system.

I have a Suzuki Samuai that has not run in a long time now due to E10 gas.
I've replaced all the fuel lines, pump and still need to replace the carb as it is ruined.
Why replace it? Strip it and stick it in a can of Chem-Dip. Your lifespan will decrease from the exposure, but your carb will be good as new
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:08 PM   #1902
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Replacing with EFI
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:00 PM   #1903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVhillbilly View Post
Replacing with EFI



As long as you're improving it, a 1.6 will drop right in there
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:32 AM   #1904
Bar None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVhillbilly View Post
On my carbed bikes I either run the carb dry or drain the float bowl.
The other is EFI and probably not as vulnerable to getting moisture in the system.

I have a Suzuki Samuai that has not run in a long time now due to E10 gas.
I've replaced all the fuel lines, pump and still need to replace the carb as it is ruined.
I had a Samurai that I ran forever on E10 and it was just fine. I think E10 gets blamed for other problems.
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:40 PM   #1905
WVhillbilly
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Running it will be fine.
When I'm working in Washington state for 5 months and it sits, the parts in the carb corrode.

I'm undecided on an engine swap right now, 1.6L is easy.
1.9L VW is mo betta
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