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Old 06-16-2013, 05:49 PM   #1
henrymartin OP
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Anyone good with boat motors?

I just got my hands on a mid-eighties boat with a Johnson V4 VRO 110HP outboard. Probably same vintage.

Sat for 6+ years. Starter turns but does not engage. When i engage it manually, it struggles to turn the motor over. Well, it turns, but real slow and has a hard time.

I'll look into the starter and clean it. Where the heck are carbs on this thing? Looking at the motor, I feel like I never saw a motor before (and I rebuild a few bike motors)

Thanks
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:56 PM   #2
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Carbs should be on the very front of the motor. I have a 88hp johnson that has been super reliable.
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:08 PM   #3
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Check that all electrical connections are clean and right, check the bendix to ensure it is well lubed and engages properly. I would do a compression check to ensure all cylinders above 100psi and balanced between all cylinders. Seafoam works wonders on stuck rings and built up carbon deposits.
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:18 PM   #4
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If the cylinders weren't fogged before the motor was stored, they're probably a little rusty.
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:20 PM   #5
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I have a service manual for those motors. I'll send you a PM.
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:41 PM   #6
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First thing to do is change the impeller in the leg. It's most likely taken a set, and won't pump water. If you're using a flushing attachment make sure water is coming out of the tell tale.

Run the engine off of a fresh fuel tank. Check the fuel filter.

And then do all the stuff mentioned by the other inmates!

The carbs are behind the black air box on the front of the motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by henrymartin View Post
I just got my hands on a mid-eighties boat with a Johnson V4 VRO 110HP outboard. Probably same vintage.

Sat for 6+ years. Starter turns but does not engage. When i engage it manually, it struggles to turn the motor over. Well, it turns, but real slow and has a hard time.

I'll look into the starter and clean it. Where the heck are carbs on this thing? Looking at the motor, I feel like I never saw a motor before (and I rebuild a few bike motors)

Thanks
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:22 PM   #7
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First, check the ground connection for the battery wherever it is located. No good ground no get nuki. No get nuki no be happy.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:53 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the replies. I'll tackle this over the weekend (if I find the time).

Will post back once I find out more.

So far I found the battery, the oil tank, gas tank, and a bunch of wires. Will have to make some sense of it soon.
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:31 AM   #9
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Cleaned the plugs, carbs, gas filter, gas lines...fresh gas (mixed at 50:1) and the sucker started on the third try. Sounds good, and all.

I did not replace the impeller since water comes out of the pisser at idle pretty strong when connected to water hose. Powerhead stays pretty cool too.

I'm getting a short buzzer alarm every second or so, which (upon research) means the VRO is not pumping oil. Ha, good thing I premixed for the test.

The manual I have covers too many motors and too many years, but it appears that the VRO services as a unit???

I'm going to pull the hose, take the oil tank apart and clean the filter, blow the hose clear and try again.

Online search reveals two camps - one that says bypass the VRO and run premix, the other says VRO is the best thing.

What say you boaters?

I don't want to run it too much until I get it in the water, the hose attachment is good for short tests, but I don't trust it for extended test runs.

Right now I'm cleaning carpets, removing hull oxidation (gellcoat), and fixing wiring to the bilge pump and all the wiring that does not work or look safe.
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:01 PM   #10
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Lube the starter bendix then use it, they loosen up and work best when they get use.

As for the VRO in a stock motor keep it. The last time I had one go out I think I paid about $150.00 installed. I like it just for the convience factor. The tanks on my boats hold a gallon when the alarm goes off so I don't have mess with doing math to mix oil. The motor will run just fine on premix that's how racers run them but I don't need that headache but that's my lazy opinion. Have fun with your new toy.
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Old 07-03-2013, 05:24 PM   #11
mwood7800
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Do yourself a favor and change the impeller and oil in the foot. No way that impeller sat that long without damage. Should be changed every other year anyways
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Old 07-04-2013, 08:21 PM   #12
concours
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwood7800 View Post
Do yourself a favor and change the impeller and oil in the foot. No way that impeller sat that long without damage. Should be changed every other year anyways
I disagree, that's old logic. I run a water pressure gage on my 1988 Mariner 100, (that I bought new) I changed the water pump once, even then, water pressure has always remained as new. It gets less than 20 hours of use every year.
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:22 PM   #13
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The lower unit fluid should still be drained and changed. If the water stream is good out of the tell tale, I would leave it.

Back when I worked for a dealer, their unofficial policy was to recommend running premix after the VRO failed. Most of the people I knew that owned one, disconnected them and ran premix.

I sold mine before it failed and replaced with a Suzuki 4t.
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:56 PM   #14
henrymartin OP
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The water pressure out of the "pisser" is good and the cooling head (whatever that black part is called) is nice and cool as long as the motor runs. As for the lower unit oil- I was planning on that. VRO - I'll try cleaning the pickup filter and the lines, then see if it starts working.

Short of calling Johnson, is there any way to find a year of manufacture? All I have on the motor is the serial and model numbers.
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:11 AM   #15
Bad Daddy
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You can usually call a dealer and they can tell you the model year.

I might be able to tell with my Sierra Book if you pm me the numbers.
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