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Old 07-05-2013, 08:32 AM   #12481
Africa_Twin
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Pissed

Quote:
Originally Posted by tserts View Post
A bit too late for that, I put his bike back together and sent him on his way a couple of hours ago (not before I fixed his rear right foot-peg which was going all the way down when extended). Furthermore, taking out the coils requires a lot of striping, he would have to leave me his bike spend the night with me and he's not into "swinging"... Luckily, the pages Abilio posted have the correct voltage readings for the coils so tomorrow the tank comes off and I will have a look at them as well. Thanks for the input.

I will have to work around into making a fuel supply patent as I will need to have her running with the tank off until she builds up temp.
Tserts I'm glad to help if you need further info.

Regarding the fuel supply with tank off, it's as easy at to get your self some extra fuel tube of suitable length and an empty bic pen body. Then, just put your fuel tank on top of the workbench or similar, attach the empty pen body to the fuel tube going to the fuel filter, then the other end of the pen to your extra fuel tube and finally from the end of the extra fuel tube to the tanks fuel tap. Just position the fuel tank on top of the workbench with enough clearance at the bottom...

On a different but also very annoying note, I am at the middle of a maintenance service with my AT and I need to check valve clearances.
Thing is I cannot take the crankshaft cap out no matter how hard I try. I actually fuc*ed up the cap's hexagonal insert for the 10mm hex L key... now, what? I already see myself having to order a new ACG cover. Damn!

Here's the damage:


I don't know whether any previous owner just tightened the damn cap too tight or even put some sort of glue to its threads but on the last 2 valve checkings the crankshaft was turned by shifting into 5th gear and turning the rear wheel up to the right spot... I reckon I could have gone down the same road this time, but what the heck I just wanted to do it by the book and remove the cap... double-damn!!!
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:58 AM   #12482
Ladder106
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I've had reasonably good luck with stripped allen bolts in soft material like this by gently tapping in a TORX bit of the appropriate size. This size is determined by just how badly the inside is stripped.

Then add a bit of heat with a heat gun or propane torch.

But be careful. If you hit it too hard, the case CAN crack....and then your language will become even more interesting.


If it's any consolation, this is a common problem with Transalps and ATs. Someone (in the US I think) sells a replacement plug with a protruding hex head.

I put some motor oil on the threads (careful with anitseize etc since the inside of this plug is exposed to the oil and any compound you use will find it's way into the engine's oil supply), then use a new O-ring and do NOT tighten the plug more than "spark plug- tight"
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:05 AM   #12483
Africa_Twin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
I've had reasonably good luck with stripped allen bolts in soft material like this by gently tapping in a TORX bit of the appropriate size. This size is determined by just how badly the inside is stripped.

Then add a bit of heat with a heat gun or propane torch.

But be careful. If you hit it too hard, the case CAN crack....and then your language will become even more interesting.


If it's any consolation, this is a common problem with Transalps and ATs. Someone (in the US I think) sells a replacement plug with a protruding hex head.

I put some motor oil on the threads (careful with anitseize etc since the inside of this plug is exposed to the oil and any compound you use will find it's way into the engine's oil supply), then use a new O-ring and do NOT tighten the plug more than "spark plug- tight"
Yeah, please excuse "my french"... I've already ordered a new cap and O-ring, now I just need to get the old cap out. Good idea on the torx bit!!!
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:48 AM   #12484
tserts
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If the torx makes a worse mess and fails to unscrew the cap, my next step would be to dremel a flathead screwdriver slot. It won't be pretty, but it might get the bolt out... Get the engine warm in order to use metal expansion to your advantage, if you don't have a torch...

Best of luck!
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:29 AM   #12485
Stormforce8
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What you need is the - LiMaCap-2



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Old 07-05-2013, 12:45 PM   #12486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Africa_Twin View Post
Yeah, please excuse "my french"... I've already ordered a new cap and O-ring, now I just need to get the old cap out. Good idea on the torx bit!!!
I've had luck striking it with a sharp cold chisel and hammer from the right angle...yeah just smack it!

As suggested already putting a heat gun on it will help.

IMO alot of these plugs get stripped because the owners hex bit tool (either the 10mm or 6mm) are just plain worn out. Even some new ones fit sloppy. Find the tightest fitting one in your tool box or go buy a new one if need be.

Most recently I removed the ones off my TA with an electric impact gun.
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:18 PM   #12487
tserts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSPD750 View Post
with an electric impact gun.
That's cheating and you know it.. We're not supposed to use torque wrenches, specialty and power tools either...
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:34 PM   #12488
2bold2getold
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You can take a bolt with a little larger head than the hole and grind and/or file it to fit the allen hole. Then use vice grips on the shank to turn the newly made allen wrench. Gently tap on the end of the bolt while turning will sometimes help hold the tool (bolt head) in the hole and shake/vibrate the plug loose. Works in an emergency when you don't have the correct size wrench also. Use some valve grinding compound on the bolt head to help it grab the soft alloy.
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Old 07-06-2013, 05:51 AM   #12489
tserts
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How's that for a fuel supply?



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Old 07-06-2013, 10:36 AM   #12490
Ladder106
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A bit dodgy, mate

A bit scary.....since you asked.

At the very least, I'd advise having a helper around to keep their eye on the level and make certain that it doesn't spill onto the exhaust.

You're doing electrical diagnostics and have the possibility of creating a spark at some point.

I think you'd be better off with a few feet of extra fuel line run to the actual fuel tank that you can set on a stand or shelf of some sort.

Keeps the vapors away from your working area.

In my carrer as a fireman, I've seen many many people get too familiar with gasoline and underestimate it's potential for disaster.
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Old 07-06-2013, 11:10 AM   #12491
2bold2getold
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OH MY, Ladder 's being kind. That's a potential disaster ready to happen. Please use a tank of some type; lawn mower, boat, bike, etc. And outside with some help and a water hose or extinguisher handy.
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Old 07-06-2013, 11:49 AM   #12492
mas335
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does this look safe enough? I can ride for about 6 miles on Elmer. I installed a O ring on the cap and it has worked for years.

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Old 07-06-2013, 12:06 PM   #12493
2bold2getold
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Yeah, Mark. I spent 30 min looking for that pic. Couldn't find it.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:03 PM   #12494
tserts
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Ok got it, I'll go get about a meter or two of fuel hose and take it from there. This is outside by the way, so i'm not gonna get high at the very least...
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:12 PM   #12495
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tserts View Post
Ok got it, I'll go get about a meter or two of fuel hose and take it from there. This is outside by the way, so i'm not gonna get high at the very least...
Not to worried about that. I had a neighbor who got a little careless in his garage with gasoline....when he woke up, he was laying flat on this back out on the driveway with his garage on fire.
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