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Old 07-05-2013, 07:41 PM   #1
jon_l OP
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silicone for adhering protection to engine case

When I installed Procycle's case protectors on my DR650, I used the orange, high-temp silicone. Worked well, but the orange was visible and ugly. I read that a thicker silicone layer offers cushioning and therefore better protection, so the stainless steel was bedded in between 1/16 and 1/8" of silicone.

I am about to install a homemade stainless steel case protector for the shifter on my WR250R. Thank you cjbiker for the dollar store stainless steel spatula idea: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=34553

All silicone is somewhat temperature resistant, and I'm wondering whether plain old silicone sealant would work as well as the high temp variety. Clear or black would look a lot better than orange. If high temp is better I'll use it, but if no difference, I'd rather use something less noticeable.

I don't have an accurate way to measure the temperature of my engine cover, so I am asking for advice. Does the cover get hot enough that I should use high-temp, or will any old silicone do?
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:12 PM   #2
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I used permatex "right stuff", which is black, just because I had a can handy. It's good from a constant -75 to 450f, 500f intermittent, and oil, ATF, etc resistant. I scuffed the insides of the armor as well as my cases with 80 grit before applying. There is a thread on DRRIDERS.com on the subject, and as i recall about every color of permatex has been used successfully. Keep a lint free shop towel and some lacquer thinner handy, you can use it to wipe off any oozing and smooth out the the bead around the edge.
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:21 PM   #3
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Hondabond HT. It's medium gray. Sensor, oil, gas safe too. Available at your local Honda dealer. Most likely cheaper at a car dealership.
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:18 AM   #4
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the Ultra gray (not Honda) is designed for vibration resistance, it cures to a harder finish
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:37 AM   #5
redprimo
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Plain old clear silicone caulk is good up to 300 degrees. If that's not good enough those case protectors won't be any help either.
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Old 07-06-2013, 03:37 PM   #6
Racer111v
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I used GOOP from the hardware store.Auto parts stores have it too. Clear and adheres better than typical silicone.

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/ag_adhesives.htm
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:05 AM   #7
jon_l OP
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thank you for the input



Got the case protector on my WR250R. When I bent my shifter on the trail recently, I bent it back enough to get me out of the woods, but it scored the alloy case while shifting. Per cjbiker's post in the WR250R/X thread, I bought a $1 stainless steel spatula at the dollar store, made a cardboard template, cut it out with a jig saw, then cleaned up the edges with a bench sander.

Cleaned everything with isopropyl, and used a bed of red high temp Permatex silicone to adhere it. I already had an open tube, and being cheap, just used it.
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Old 07-07-2013, 03:55 PM   #8
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
When I installed Procycle's case protectors on my DR650, I used the orange, high-temp silicone. Worked well, but the orange was visible and ugly. I read that a thicker silicone layer offers cushioning and therefore better protection, so the stainless steel was bedded in between 1/16 and 1/8" of silicone.

I am about to install a homemade stainless steel case protector for the shifter on my WR250R. Thank you cjbiker for the dollar store stainless steel spatula idea: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=34553

All silicone is somewhat temperature resistant, and I'm wondering whether plain old silicone sealant would work as well as the high temp variety. Clear or black would look a lot better than orange. If high temp is better I'll use it, but if no difference, I'd rather use something less noticeable.

I don't have an accurate way to measure the temperature of my engine cover, so I am asking for advice. Does the cover get hot enough that I should use high-temp, or will any old silicone do?
You can use rubber washers as spacers to get a uniform thickness of adhesive. With a liquid-cooled or oil-cooled engine, I'd assume that 300F is about as hot as you have to worry about.
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