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Old 07-06-2013, 03:08 AM   #1
Storm Shadow OP
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exhaust studd

ok, changing the extractors, the studd has come out from the engine block, it wont go back in, and i cant get the bolt off the stud either...

have i really stuffed things up?
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:09 AM   #2
mcma111
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Tap the hole in the block and get a new stud and nut.
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:22 AM   #3
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problem number two, its a vfr, its a v4, its the rear where u have trouble to even put a nut on a bolt in there. no way im able to get any helicoil into it
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Old 07-06-2013, 08:48 AM   #4
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I said TAP as in run a tap in the hole to clean up the threads so a new stud can be inserted. If the threads are ruined then the head will have to come off to heli coil it.
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Old 07-06-2013, 08:56 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
I said TAP as in run a tap in the hole to clean up the threads so a new stud can be inserted. If the threads are ruined then the head will have to come off to heli coil it.
thats going to cost me
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:57 AM   #6
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ok, changing the extractors, the studd has come out from the engine block, it wont go back in, and i cant get the bolt off the stud either...

have i really stuffed things up?
There's no way of knowing whether or not you've stuffed anything up without a detailed inspection. Unfortunately, as you write later, visual inspection is exceedingly difficult in this location.

Inspecting the exhaust stud might provide some clues about the state of the threads in the head, and the cause of your difficulties. If you can post up some photos of the stud, perhaps we can see something that can guide your efforts.
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Old 07-06-2013, 07:09 PM   #7
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exhaust stud looks perfectly fine,

im going to put it in a vice, and unlock the bolt on it, then try and clean up the thred in the block, compressed air to clean anything out of it, then try to put it back in using high temp lock tight.

then hopefully thats all thats needed.

if i have damaged the threads on the block, will first attempt a tap, which will probably require, removing sub frame, suspension, possibly swing arm to get into it.
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:41 AM   #8
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if i have damaged the threads on the block, will first attempt a tap, which will probably require, removing sub frame, suspension, possibly swing arm to get into it.

It may not be that bad. If you can get the stud in and out without removing all the parts, you should be able to get a tap in place.
Remember, you are not cutting brand new threads, just cleaning up existing threads. You should be able to turn the tap in with an open end wrench, no need for the full size tap handle. Just take care to keep the tap lined up square.
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:03 AM   #9
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It may not be that bad. If you can get the stud in and out without removing all the parts, you should be able to get a tap in place.
Remember, you are not cutting brand new threads, just cleaning up existing threads. You should be able to turn the tap in with an open end wrench, no need for the full size tap handle. Just take care to keep the tap lined up square.
Good advice, +1
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:03 AM   #10
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do you need heat or something when putting the studs in?

i took the nut off the stud today, thats out, as it was seized on, needed a lot of force in a vice. and the nut wont go back on, the outside even appears slightly bent to me.

i have new studs and bolts on the way though..
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Old 07-07-2013, 03:57 PM   #11
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What probably happened was the nut galled or rusted onto the stud. The nut had a stronger grip on the stud than the head had on the stud. So when you turned it, you walked the stud out of the head.

Nothing fancy about installing the new stud. Put two nuts on it, jam them tight against each other, then use your wrench on those to tighten the stud into the head. Maybe use some hi-temp loctite (??) Once the stud is 'home' use two wenches to separate the two jammed nuts from each other and remove them. Install header, go ride Same method is used to remove the studs also.

As far as the stub being bent, now that you have it our, try rolling it on a nice flat surface to see if it is bent or not. What happens a lot of times is some FORCE is needed to get a poor fitting header over the studs. A bit of persuasion is needed and a stud is bent in order to get the header flange over it.
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:00 PM   #12
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well, this whole issue arrose from my poor fittign after market springy stainless steel headesr, trying to lever them into place.

eventually teh gaskets failed, on them, and i was in the process of replacing it. but im going to put the origional exhaust back on now, with cat and all.. just leave it at that, no more mods to make it go fast
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:14 PM   #13
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Maybe use some hi-temp loctite (??)
Not trying to highjack the thread but on autos I always use anti-seize in case I have to pull it apart later and have used it on some bikes. Is that a bad idea on bikes because of the vibrations?
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:30 PM   #14
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well, this whole issue arrose from my poor fittign after market springy stainless steel headesr, trying to lever them into place.

eventually teh gaskets failed, on them, and i was in the process of replacing it. but im going to put the origional exhaust back on now, with cat and all.. just leave it at that, no more mods to make it go fast
Sell it and buy a Hayabusa.
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:37 PM   #15
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Sell it and buy a Hayabusa.
its tempting but since i only just brought it as a new bike a little more than a year ago, i think id loose too much money...
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