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Old 07-11-2013, 11:02 AM   #31
binman41 OP
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AHHHHH.....only just seen the replies about the motor in Italy and its already gone :(

Gutted.

Haynes manual arrived this morning so am starting the strip and engine out of the bike. I will let you all know what I find.

EDIT. The listing was removed and relisted, have found the new listing now. Am trying to contact member about postage....wish me luck!

binman41 screwed with this post 07-11-2013 at 11:12 AM
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:18 AM   #32
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AHHHHH.....only just seen the replies about the motor in Italy and its already gone :(
REAVER!! Stop "buying" spare parts for your wife's bike!
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Old 07-12-2013, 05:35 AM   #33
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REAVER!! Stop "buying" spare parts for your wife's bike!
Shipping was only 150 EU!

I thought about it I'm not in need of any engine parts. That one was too good of a deal........There's an F8 for sale local with an irreparable title that's used for off road only. I'm waiting for my house sale cash.

The twins are damn good engines and I've only heard of a few exploding. Buying a used bike you never know how it was maintained. The ones on Ebay usually have a spun lower bearing. I'm waiting for the OP's diagnosis......
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:41 AM   #34
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cheap at twice the price

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That's a LOT of motor for 2500 US dollars.
Sounds like a BARGAIN to me.
thats cheap in U S dollars because its made in china by a guy working 12 hours a day 6 days a week for 1.50 an hour.
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:37 PM   #35
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thats cheap in U S dollars because its made in china by a guy working 12 hours a day 6 days a week for 1.50 an hour.
The 800 is not made in prc. The sixfitty I believe is.
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:23 PM   #36
binman41 OP
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Evening/afternoon all.

So today and last night i set about tearing into the bike to find out what was wrong:


started stripping bits of the bike.


Trying to label al wires etc for when I rebuild her.


Engine ready to come out


Engine out


Homemade engine stand!



Bronze metal shards in sump....(suspected bearings)
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:33 PM   #37
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Even more brass shards on gasket!









Showing scaffold home made stand :)


All covers off


Shims out


Crankcases split


Btm Crancase removed


Gearbox all operating correctly


Balancer rod
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:37 PM   #38
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Okay so what I have found up to now:
  • Dieselboys, write up thread on DIY cam chain replacement is an amazing write up. I found myself using the thread rather than the haynes manual to remove engine and split block. Really good thread and really well documented, which is why I havnt bothered to go into more detail on mine :)
  • BMW's exhaust studs are shocking. One stud has snapped off in the block which I will have to drill out, the other three all the studs came out rather than the nut release. I will be replacing with stainless steel.
  • There was a lot of fine brass partcles in the sump! :(
  • Its a long old job just to remove the engine. Anyone who attemts it, book a day off work rather than on a school night and working till 2am! ooops
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:47 PM   #39
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So with theblock split it was easy to very quickly diagnose that the balancer rod bearing had completed collapsed, I could wiggle the balancer rod in just about every direction by a good 2/3mm!


Not the best photo but from peering down into the cylinder bore, it all looks ok, no scores in the bores etc.


Balancing rod removed. Note the heat marks on the top of the arch.


Photo showing the 'fractured' split on con rod


Note the bearing shells had worked their way around 90 degrees to the split of the conrod. Also note the heat marks on both sides.


Bottom of con rod out, same heat marks on top of arch.


Look at the machined surface on the crankshaft where the balancing rod runs, it appears that the surface seems to have been worn away. New crank?
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:56 PM   #40
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So now I'm after some advice on the following:

I intend to replace the crankshaft bearings for the piston conrods and the balance rod conrods. The two piston crankshaft bearings seem to have a little bit of play in them.

The question is can I do this with keeping the pistons in place....i.e remove crankshaft from engine and slide the bearing shells out of the one half of the conrod that is still attached to the piston?

The reason I dont want to remove the pistons is that they appear to be ok and I do not have a honing tool nor a piston ring compressor to reassemble.

The crank may be sjot anyhow so that will come out. Aslong as I set the crank to TDC before installing the cams at TDC it should all allign....correct??

With the crank out I will check the main end bearings also. If required I will replace the shells, but on inspection they seem ok.

My theory is that the balancer rod bearing shattered/collapsed and this has caused a vibration/out of balance engine that has strained the piston crankshaft bearings.

Can anybody comment on the crank (last picture above)....to me it looks like the surface of the crank has started to break up and it feels rougher than the rest of the machined surface......I presume that means I need a new crankshaft?
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:04 PM   #41
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Higher resolution of machined crankshaft, If you lookat the hole and then directly underneath it you can see the change in colour to the machined face, this is where I tink the surface has broken up
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:47 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by binman41 View Post

Higher resolution of machined crankshaft, If you lookat the hole and then directly underneath it you can see the change in colour to the machined face, this is where I tink the surface has broken up
That is hard to say. Many cranks have blueing on them from the forging process. I am not sure of the 8GS, but I would be cautious to take the blueing as a heat stress on a crank.
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Old 07-13-2013, 04:42 AM   #43
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You were a busy beaver to get that done in one long day!
Get a ring compressor.
I would just change out the bearing most likely it blew up on its own.
You can always measure for the crank wear.
Rotax should be able to give you a tolerance for the crank.
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:16 AM   #44
binman41 OP
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So I pulled the crankshaft this morning

Seems that you can just remove crankshaft and leave the piston assembly in situ....(I may buy a ring compresor and push pistons out anyhow). The blocks of wood were to stop the pistons sliding down and dmaging the heads/valves.... they stayed in place though.



If you look at the crankshaft and on the centre journal where the balance rod locates you can clearly see its damaged. Looks like a new crank is needed! :(


Running out of room on the bench now!

I have tried to phone BMW this morning and am waiting on a phone back. The bike has full service history and only covered 14/15k miles. In my eyes I don't think the engine should be having a major failure like this. Am goingto try and get them to pay for the spares and rebuild kit (gaskets etc).... they havnt had to pay for the labour as Ive done it and will be rebuilding myself.... will let you all know how i get on.

Parts now required list:
  • Oil and Filter
  • Antifreeze
  • Alternator (Right hand side) gasket
  • Clutch (Left hand side) gasket
  • Rocker Cover Gasket
  • Crankshaft
  • Balancing Rod connector bearing shells
  • Balancing Rod connector bolts (stretch bolts)
  • Main bearing bearing shells
  • Main beraing connector bolts (stretch bolts)
  • Piston con rod bearing shells (two sets)
  • Piston con rod bolts (two sets - stretch bolts)
  • Crankcasing 4 off stretch bolts.
  • and....inner clutch basket (clutch driver dog) as I broke my one trying to remove bolt...oooops
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:29 AM   #45
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Before buying a new crank check to see if oversized bearings are available. Often the crank journals can be resurfaced and mated with oversized bearings to make up the difference. I'd check with a crank servicing company as often the OE manufacturer only makes standard replacement bearings but there could be a large selection through the aftermarket.
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