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Old 07-10-2013, 02:56 PM   #7006
Dorito
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
How does evveryone like the Happy Trail side rack?

It's expensive. Is it easy to take off? Is it heavy?

What are draw backs?
Hate mine.

1) Don't expect an easy install. Mine needed a MAPP torch and a "S" bend in the lower foot peg piece to align. I've done 4-5 sets of panniers, and these were by far the worst constructed.
2) The stupid rubber end blocks don't stay on, so you get rust leaking off them despite the little use mine have seen
3) I ride in the bike in woods single track, and just think that that clunky design doesn't belong hucking through the woods. So, I take them off with the exception of my bigger trips
4) I've broke off the rear blinkers 3 times now. You will need to reroute them using the metal tabs provided, but you can't flip them between the stock position and the pannier position.
5) However, I dislike them so much I chose to ride the leaking Giant Loop Great Basin rather than those
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:10 PM   #7007
EXEBECHE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
How does evveryone like the Happy Trail side rack?

It's expensive. Is it easy to take off? Is it heavy?

What are draw backs?
Like mine so much I bought a second one for my other dr200. They both required a little pursuasion to install, but they are light and rugged. I use aluminum panniers on one and wolfman dry bags on the other. They keep everything away from the exhaust and give you room on the left to add a tool tube, etc. Never took one off but shouldn't take too long.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:02 AM   #7008
73Mustang
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I am rolling and dice...ordered the SL rack, which is the light duty version. I only need it for rare long trips. I will take it off after each trip, since I don't need it for commuting. Hopefully, I won't need a blow torch to install it. [fingers crossed]


Quote:
Originally Posted by EXEBECHE View Post
Like mine so much I bought a second one for my other dr200. They both required a little pursuasion to install, but they are light and rugged.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorito View Post
Hate mine.

1) Don't expect an easy install. Mine needed a MAPP torch and a "S" bend in the lower foot peg piece to align. I've done 4-5 sets of panniers, and these were by far the worst constructed.
2) The stupid rubber end blocks don't stay on, so you get rust leaking off them despite the little use mine have seen
3) I ride in the bike in woods single track, and just think that that clunky design doesn't belong hucking through the woods. So, I take them off with the exception of my bigger trips
4) I've broke off the rear blinkers 3 times now. You will need to reroute them using the metal tabs provided, but you can't flip them between the stock position and the pannier position.
5) However, I dislike them so much I chose to ride the leaking Giant Loop Great Basin rather than those

73Mustang screwed with this post 07-11-2013 at 08:08 AM
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:05 AM   #7009
73Mustang
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How bad is the stock Trail Wings for hard terrain? I'm doing the RMAR in July. Doing those loops in the Colorado Rocky Mountain passes. Lots of rocks. I'll go around gnarly single tracks. Do I really need knobbies? Or can I get by with the stock tires.

I'm just lazy to change tires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
3. For more of an off road tire a knobby like a Dunlop 606 would be best.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:03 AM   #7010
northsouth15
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can you clarify what you mean by hard terrain?

loose rocks?



big rocks?



hard clay?



or hard pack?



frankly, I thought the tires were pretty good for street/pavement:



and good enough on the hardpack, and moderately loose pavement. But once it got really loose, the bike (combined with its pogostick suspension) would start to go all over the place.
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:43 PM   #7011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
How does evveryone like the Happy Trail side rack?

It's expensive. Is it easy to take off? Is it heavy?

What are draw backs?
Regarding relocation of turn signals, see my pictures and post on page 86 of this thread. I made a tiny bracket to fit under the tail light housing and mounted the stock signals well out of harms way. They were never broken off despite several hard falls. I carefully rerouted the wires in such a way that no splicing was needed, original wiring was left uncompromised.
Yes, some wrestling and even a little bending was necessary to line up everything on the Happy Trail racks, but they are heavy duty and any bags can be hung on them. I sprayed the insides with WD-40 to retard rust. I've used the Happy Trail racks on more bikes than I can remember, and they've never failed or broken. The one on my DR650 is bent to hell from my wife throwing it down hard - her way of "escaping" if things start to go wrong - but it still holds the bags.
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:50 PM   #7012
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
How does evveryone like the Happy Trail side rack?

It's expensive. Is it easy to take off? Is it heavy?

What are draw backs?
I've got a set on my Tiger and also on my wife's DR200. Like most others the DR200 racks needed a little persuasion but nothing drastic. I bolted on a pair of SeaHorse cases and she likes the setup.

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Old 07-11-2013, 12:54 PM   #7013
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
How bad is the stock Trail Wings for hard terrain? I'm doing the RMAR in July. Doing those loops in the Colorado Rocky Mountain passes. Lots of rocks. I'll go around gnarly single tracks. Do I really need knobbies? Or can I get by with the stock tires.

I'm just lazy to change tires.
My wife has always liked the stock TrailWings on her DR200 and when I couldn't find any I installed a pair of IRC GP-1s which look like a clone of the TrailWings. They work well on our terrain, mostly mountains, fire roads, little to no mud and just a bit of sand. Run em till they're worn out, they'll be fine.
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Old 07-11-2013, 03:44 PM   #7014
Wallrat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
How bad is the stock Trail Wings for hard terrain? I'm doing the RMAR in July. Doing those loops in the Colorado Rocky Mountain passes. Lots of rocks. I'll go around gnarly single tracks. Do I really need knobbies? Or can I get by with the stock tires.

I'm just lazy to change tires.

You can certainly keep the stock rubber, but it will make a noticeable difference if you upgrade to proper tires. Better braking, better turning
better climbing, fewer broken parts due to crashing, more resistance to flats...

I can't think of a single "mod" that will improve the DR's offroad performance more than tires. I'd consider the stockers 95% onroad, 5% offroad - or just enough capability offroad that if you can't possibly avoid the dirt, then they'll make it.
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Old 07-11-2013, 05:11 PM   #7015
Andyinhilo
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Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
I just tried some Rotella T 15w40. No difference to my shifting. Still feels like the clutch is not total disengaging. Still have to rev match to change gear. Very annoying. But mine only has 150 miles odo. Hoping problem will soon go away, like somebody said. I'm abusing the clutch as much as I can to break 'em in faster.
How long have you been "abusing" the clutch? If you get things hot you can warp the steel plates, and it will never disengage correctly. It won't take too much abuse to ruin the clutch.
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Old 07-11-2013, 05:18 PM   #7016
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Hi. Is it possible the dealership didn't drain the shipping oil and put proper oil in the engine before delivering the bike to me?

Because, compared to my other dirtbike, the oil in the sight glass looks very watery.

The dealership didn't oil the air filter. Could they be so cheap as to not change to shipping oil? Because I got 'em to drop the "prep set".

I'll change the oil as soon as I get home.
When I was a Suzuki dealer we never had bikes sent with "shipping oil". They were sent with no oil, and the dealer had to put oil in. Things might be different now, but I doubt it. The bikes that came with foam air filters always had oil on the filters, though.
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Old 07-11-2013, 05:55 PM   #7017
northsouth15
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installed the knobby tires for this Sunday's trail ride



tires are in a 80/100-21 in the front (little wider, little taller) and 100/100-18 in the rear (a little taller) because I couldn't find (for cheap) any tires that were the stock size. Frankly, I haven't seen a 70 width knobby for the front ever, so the closest I could find was an 80 width. And it fits on the rim just fine, but since we're squeezing a wider tire onto a narrower rim, the shape of the tire and handling characteristics will change

compared to stock, the tire knobs combined with the increased size made them bigger:



I took it for a quick ride to the gas station, and it is noticeably different - I like the front to "fall" into turns by being narrow and having a V shape. This 80 width front (and a knobby) doesn't do that as easily. You have to push it more to get it over, and if anything, it's a bit scary to attempt to lean into a turn on pavement because it feels weird. But it's not designed for that, so it's okay. The rear sits a bit higher, but being the same width as the oem tire, falls into turns as it should. I don't trust it in full lean as knobbies have less contact patch, but it's good enough. On a gravel road, the knobbies on the side of the tire help it grab a lot better than the OEM bridgestones, so you can finally push the bike over, get on the gas, and have those side knobbies grab the dirt to push you throuhg a turn.

better ride report Sunday!
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:55 PM   #7018
73Mustang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
How long have you been "abusing" the clutch? If you get things hot you can warp the steel plates, and it will never disengage correctly. It won't take too much abuse to ruin the clutch.

I was kidding about abusing the clutch. I mean, I've been riding alot of urban, traffic light-to-traffic light type of riding that requires a lot of clutching. I would never push hard on any part of the bike during break-in period.

Regarding overheating the clutch...My bike off the dealership floor was too lean on the low speed because it wouldn't idle very well. I drove it 100 miles this way in 100 degree weather. The bike then felt hot all the time. So then, I drilled out the fuel screw cap, and started playing with the screw. Now, it can idle smooth and very slow, and the bike feels cooler. And the engine now has more snap.

Is it likely the first 100 miles, when it was too lean, overheated the clutch plates?
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:32 PM   #7019
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Bike needs some more miles to be worried about the clutch. Maybe 20 50 oil ifnyour temps run 100 pretty consistently. But that said I have never broken in a brand new bike just top ends after a rebuild and my dr is this first bike I ever bought in running condition. Joe
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:04 PM   #7020
Klay
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I've heard that overheating the motor can actually warp the clutch plates. But shouldn't problems with a new bike be covered under warranty?
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