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Old 07-11-2013, 09:55 PM   #78631
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Pompano Beach, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKASY View Post
On my last DR I did a good job of scuffing up the oil filter cover. Since then I have seen two others cracked by rocks--one we had to leave in the boonies until we could get a truck back in to get it. I ordered a cover but it did not clear my skid so I did some improvising.
Here are a couple of pics of what I came up with--don't know how well it will work if stress tested but I'm hoping it will at least give my oil cover some protection if I encounter a rock during a dirt nap.

Neat, but you could have just bought a cover for it - and the covers seem like they'd really protect the housing. This is my bike:

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Old 07-11-2013, 11:25 PM   #78632
GSF1200S
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Ok, so with this all past me, I have a crazy theory. Tell me what you think of this:

I started out using kerosene in a squirt bottle and bel ray chain lube. Having no experience on the road, I figured kerosene could be easily sourced. I was wrong. As I ran into only being able to buy large quantities of kerosene, I switched to wd40 since I had read in many places about guys using that to clean their chains. I would spray the chain with wd40, then wipe it off with a rag, then apply chain lube and let it dry. I would always do this when the chain was hot.

The problem is, as some have mentioned, wd40 is a penetrant. My theory is that the wd40 penetrated the orings and ruined the grease inside, and soon the chain started rusting internally (despite my cleaning and lubing). At the same time, the Keintech simple stand I use isnt the most stable, but certainly weighs less, costs less, and takes zero ground clearance when stowed compared to a center stand; this stand allows the bike to move a little when I would spin the wheel to blast the chain with wd40. Overspray prolly hit the spacer by the cush hub bearing a number of times, consequently pentrating the seal (or around the bearing perhaps?) and destroying the grease in the bearing. As the bearing wore, it started to place all sorts of additional force on the wheel bearings and caused the one nearest to the rotor to start going bad. **EDIT** I really am not sure the cush bearing could put additional force on the wheel bearings, but id like your opinions.

I always check the wheel for movement when I deal with the chain, but I will confess I didnt always check the sprocket for lateral movement. This happened fast because I know in fairbanks there was no wheel slop at all.

Maybe im reaching here, but the cush hub bearing definitely had a rusty runny watery crap coming out of it, and this theory seems plausible.

Anyone else want to part some wisdom on me? I feel really stupid (and I was for sure) but at least I know better now. Im using diesel in a squirt bottle to clean the chain and silicone lubricant to keep the orings conditioned. I clean when warm, and I wipe the chain off before extended dirt sessions. Sound right?

Moral of the story: dont blast wd40 on chains or by accident, bearings. I guess some might spray wd40 on a rag, but for me diesel is so cheap, abundant, convenient and good at cleaning that Im just going to use it from now on.
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:26 AM   #78633
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Good post mate!
But I believe in cleaning my chain. Lots depends what you use for a chain lube. If a rider is using a Sticky/Tacky type lube ... and riding off road ... that chain/sprockets will need cleaning.

If you never go off road, and use something like a "lite" Teflon type lube, then nothing much to clean.

When you clean you shouldn't be forcing anything past plates to damage X rings ... UNLESS you are using a Wire Brush! I use a soft cloth and some WD40. When I'm using Teflon lube, I get some grit on my chain. With Teflon I simply spray on more Teflon ... then wipe it down. All clean, Grit removed. Done. But it doesn't last long ... maybe 100 miles.

With 90 wt. gear oil on multiple day rides, 400 mile days, I spend a bit more time cleaning and sometimes use some WD40, Kerosene or even Diesel to speed things up. I don't soak it ... just enough to shine up chain and remove grit off chain and sprockets.
Takes less than 3 minutes. (including wiping down rear wheel)

Off road I don't use any lube at all during the riding day. At days end I clean and lube the chain. (if I'm in one piece and still conscious )

Great comments on adjusting chains, changing CS sprockets and checking for wear. A++++ !
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Ok, so with this all past me, I have a crazy theory. Tell me what you think of this:

I started out using kerosene in a squirt bottle and bel ray chain lube. Having no experience on the road, I figured kerosene could be easily sourced. I was wrong. As I ran into only being able to buy large quantities of kerosene, I switched to wd40 since I had read in many places about guys using that to clean their chains. I would spray the chain with wd40, then wipe it off with a rag, then apply chain lube and let it dry. I would always do this when the chain was hot.

The problem is, as some have mentioned, wd40 is a penetrant. My theory is that the wd40 penetrated the orings and ruined the grease inside, and soon the chain started rusting internally (despite my cleaning and lubing). At the same time, the Keintech simple stand I use isnt the most stable, but certainly weighs less, costs less, and takes zero ground clearance when stowed compared to a center stand; this stand allows the bike to move a little when I would spin the wheel to blast the chain with wd40. Overspray prolly hit the spacer by the cush hub bearing a number of times, consequently pentrating the seal (or around the bearing perhaps?) and destroying the grease in the bearing. As the bearing wore, it started to place all sorts of additional force on the wheel bearings and caused the one nearest to the rotor to start going bad. **EDIT** I really am not sure the cush bearing could put additional force on the wheel bearings, but id like your opinions.

I always check the wheel for movement when I deal with the chain, but I will confess I didnt always check the sprocket for lateral movement. This happened fast because I know in fairbanks there was no wheel slop at all.

Maybe im reaching here, but the cush hub bearing definitely had a rusty runny watery crap coming out of it, and this theory seems plausible.

Anyone else want to part some wisdom on me? I feel really stupid (and I was for sure) but at least I know better now. Im using diesel in a squirt bottle to clean the chain and silicone lubricant to keep the orings conditioned. I clean when warm, and I wipe the chain off before extended dirt sessions. Sound right?

Moral of the story: dont blast wd40 on chains or by accident, bearings. I guess some might spray wd40 on a rag, but for me diesel is so cheap, abundant, convenient and good at cleaning that Im just going to use it from now on.
Maybe.

But as I stated above, don't over lube a chain, and there is no need to clean it, ever. And even if there is crud build up on it, its not on the wear parts, and its only cosmetic. IMHO, YMMV
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:48 AM   #78634
greer
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
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Tires

Take a look at the Shinko 244's and 705's.

Sarah


Quote:
Originally Posted by SOTA View Post
New here I got a 2003 dr650 and I love it I've rode it a lot off road but I just got it registered and I need some good road tires I would like a 50/50 tire or maybe 70/30. I'm running a death wing up front and a Dunlop d606 in the rear the 606 is great in off road not the best on
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Old 07-12-2013, 04:41 AM   #78635
dankatz
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Boston, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
Take a look at the Shinko 244's and 705's.

Sarah
The Shinko 244 are very inexpensive and great on the road (haven't had the experience of taking them offroad). Despite looking like 50/50 tires, I would say they are more like 70/30 tires. I will be replacing mine with the same ones. Interesting that the guy I bought the bike from had given me Dunlop 606's as well with only 100 miles. He hated them on the highway and immediately took them of.
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Old 07-12-2013, 05:04 AM   #78636
DockingPilot
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Andover, N.J.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Yea, your front sprocket shows more wear than I initially thought from the other pic. Looks it's been exposed to Salt as well?
Is it Suzuki OEM sprocket?

I'd also be concerned with your rear sprocket. Kinda "Pointy" no?
Hard to tell ... fuzzy pic ... but I'm guessing it's past due for replacement.
Is that a stock Suzuki sprocket? If not ... what brand?

Looks like you're ready for the rest of Summer! Safe riding!
Hey Grift,
Yep, OEM, all of it. Even the new cs.
No salt water, I don't ride it to work. I guess it's just the photo.
Rear is good, I comped it to a new new, about the same.
And your are really spot on with the new cs and rubbers, the difference is quite noticeable!
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:11 AM   #78637
AKASY
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Hopefully on a bike
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Cover

Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
If you haven't sold the AMP cover it can be fitted with a little easy modification to the skid plate - it only needs to be spread 1/8-1/4".
I tried that and it could be fitted but it would be tight and difficult during oil changes. I also did not like the way it stuck out to the side. Still have not sold it, no rush of potential buyers
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:12 AM   #78638
NWBoon
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Pacific NW
Oddometer: 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Very true, especially staff at the Dirt Bike magazines. At City Bike (San Fran) we were a bit different. We embraced the DR (I attended the original product Launch in the Mojave in 1996) and our publisher owned two DR650's and supported the idea of low cost bikes for budget conscious riders. We lent out DR test bikes out to everyone ... no one could break them.

We even supported and sponsored some RTW travelers ... like Ted Simon and Greg Frasier ... and several more unknown riders. So not ALL mags are bad guys!

The shiny mag guys are jaded ... their purview is Race Bikes and the Moto Cross business (stress BUSINESS here) for the most part. Their demographic are ages 12 to 19. They just don't get ADV travel or exploring ... and it doesn't pay the bills either. Look at who there advertisers are. But there are ... thankfully, other mags ... and of course ADV rider.

The Dirt Bike mag guys rarely leave the L.A. area on a motorbike ... and never travel solo off road. If they go somewhere, it's in a $40,000 pick up truck on loan from Ford or Toyota. None ride on the street.

So, grain of Salt here. Don't take offense. Take heart and support mags like MCN. Editor Dave Searle has done specials all about the DR650 and understands LOTS of "Real" working man riders love this bike. He owns one and "gets" the DR 100%.
Wow, City Bike is a magazine name I hadn't heard in years! I went to college at Sacramento State from 1990 to 1995 and really enjoyed reading that publication. My only form of transportation from 90 - 94 was a 1988 Kawasaki EX500. I put 33,000 or so miles on that little bike and had a blast with it (first motorcycle). Thanks Adv Grifter for lots of great reading back in my wild days.
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:08 AM   #78639
malignity
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Sanford, MI
Oddometer: 361
Hey everyone,

I'm looking at possibly getting a 2000 DR650. Its got about 22,000 miles on it. How many more miles on average will I be able to get before I'm looking at a rebuild?

With proper suspension, will a DR650 be able to achieve freeway speed with a 240lb driver and 170lb passenger?

I want a backup/guest 'dirt bike', but also would like to kill two birds with one stone and have an adventure bike for my wife and I. The XR650L is too tall for a passenger, and the KLR is too heavy to be used as a dirt bike.

I'm hoping the DR650 will fit.
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:22 AM   #78640
MrBob
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Location: Boulderish, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Neat, but you could have just bought a cover for it - and the covers seem like they'd really protect the housing. This is my bike:
Fabricating your own part always trumps just being able to whip out a credit card.
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:30 AM   #78641
TrophyHunter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malignity View Post
Hey everyone,

I'm looking at possibly getting a 2000 DR650. Its got about 22,000 miles on it. How many more miles on average will I be able to get before I'm looking at a rebuild?

With proper suspension, will a DR650 be able to achieve freeway speed with a 240lb driver and 170lb passenger?

I want a backup/guest 'dirt bike', but also would like to kill two birds with one stone and have an adventure bike for my wife and I. The XR650L is too tall for a passenger, and the KLR is too heavy to be used as a dirt bike.

I'm hoping the DR650 will fit.
There are posts of couples going long distances on a properly set up DR and several on this forum have over 50K miles. I know of one that sold to someone here with 75K and they're still riding it.

It should work for your stated mission once it's set up. Happy hunting.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:53 AM   #78642
noreason
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Joined: Jul 2013
Location: Galveston, Texas!
Oddometer: 4
Recently purchased an 09 and I love it. But I have a question about its height/suspension.

The bike has an aftermarket Sargent low seat a few racks in the back with two soft bags with nothing in them. Nothing major as far as weight goes really. Maybe 10-15lbs max?

Anyhow, when the bike is on flat ground and the side stand, it's almost vertical and unsteady. I have to park with the wheel to the left, which I normally do, except on this bike, I literally have to. I have to park on the street facing the opposite direction (illegal?) because the slight curvature of the street won't allow it! Last but not least, if I have the stand down and sit on the bike, which I could do on my 99 dr 350, it just pushes me and the bike over to the right, pretty far, far from possible to just sit there and hang out on it.

So, I figured the previous owner lowered the bike, but everything (to me) looks stock. Links look normal, the shock adjustment is in the higher height slot and the spring compression adjuster (whatever the actual word is for that) seems to be in the stock position.

Any ideas on what else I can check?



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Old 07-12-2013, 08:58 AM   #78643
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noreason View Post
Recently purchased an 09 and I love it. But I have a question about its height/suspension.

The bike has an aftermarket Sargent low seat a few racks in the back with two soft bags with nothing in them. Nothing major as far as weight goes really. Maybe 10-15lbs max?

Anyhow, when the bike is on flat ground and the side stand, it's almost vertical and unsteady. I have to park with the wheel to the left, which I normally do, except on this bike, I literally have to. I have to park on the street facing the opposite direction (illegal?) because the slight curvature of the street won't allow it! Last but not least, if I have the stand down and sit on the bike, which I could do on my 99 dr 350, it just pushes me and the bike over to the right, pretty far, far from possible to just sit there and hang out on it.

So, I figured the previous owner lowered the bike, but everything (to me) looks stock. Links look normal, the shock adjustment is in the higher height slot and the spring compression adjuster (whatever the actual word is for that) seems to be in the stock position.

Any ideas on what else I can check?



Crank in some more spring preload on the shock with the adjusters or get a heavier spring.

You could shorten the stand also, but if the bike is sagging that bad , you need more cowbell. (preload)

If you're not going to be offroading there's always a centerstand option.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:58 AM   #78644
dman
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Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Oddometer: 560
D606

Hmmm ... surprised to see criticism of the D606 recently. I now have over 2K miles on mine and they seem fine street and dirt, though I haven't ridden in rain (or mud). I finally did a "real" dual-sport ride last weekend, about 700 miles total with maybe 100 off pavement, a few of which were some pretty rocky and loose (by my noob standards) OHV trails in the Sierras, and on a few hills I needed all the traction I could get. But the 200+ miles of slab to-and-from the mountains was handled fine too. And on a few sections of twisty/bumpy paved FS roads (Frazier Creek Rd, Plumas NF - just ride it!) I didn't have much in the way of chicken strips left. BTW, this was the second longish ride I've done since installing ProCycle's lowered pegs and they definitely make a huge difference. The stock seat was really tolerable, and standing off road, though something I still don't feel totally comfortable with, was much easier.

-dman
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:37 AM   #78645
TrophyHunter
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Location: San Diego
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I think the 606 may be a little noisier than some want but my set worked well on the street. I was surprised at how much traction they had in corners. I'm not a canyon carver by any stretch but went too hot into a couple of corners and had to do the "steady throttle, lean - Lean - LEAN" mantra in my head and they hung on.

Hold up well in the rocky stuff, too.
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