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Old 07-11-2013, 08:19 PM   #7021
73Mustang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
I've heard that overheating the motor can actually warp the clutch plates. But shouldn't problems with a new bike be covered under warranty?
Yeah, still under warranty. I going to take it back to the dealer, and let 'em look at it. That's why I paid the big bucks for a brand new one--this service. I'm having to stomp on the shifter to down shift. Never had it this bad in the over one dozen motorcycle I've owned. I doubt it's due to overheating. I don't think the engine ever overheated. It was felt really hot because weather has been super hot lately.

Problem is that dealership is 1 hour away. They wouldn't give me an opinion over the phone. They just want me to bring it in. I need to get this sorted out before my Colorado trip. I would hate to be slamming on the shifter up and down the Rocky Mountains.

73Mustang screwed with this post 07-11-2013 at 08:27 PM
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:25 PM   #7022
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Originally Posted by Jodaddy View Post
Bike needs some more miles to be worried about the clutch. Maybe 20 50 oil ifnyour temps run 100 pretty consistently. But that said I have never broken in a brand new bike just top ends after a rebuild and my dr is this first bike I ever bought in running condition. Joe
I've owned many, many motorcycle. I've bought at least 6 brand new motorcycles. They've all had smooth clutch off the showroom floor. Even the $1200 Chinese bike shifted smooth.

I've put 200 miles of city riding. And the clutch hadn't gotten any better.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:25 PM   #7023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
Yeah, still under warranty. I going to take it back to the dealer, and let 'em look at it. That's why I paid the big bucks for a brand new one--this service. I'm having to stomp on the shifter to down shift. Never had it this bad in the over one dozen motorcycle I've owned. I doubt it's due to overheating. I don't think the engine ever overheated. It was felt really hot because weather has been super hot lately.

Problem is that dealership is 1 hour away. They wouldn't give me an opinion over the phone. They said "bring it in."

I would tell them to fix it. That's very unusual. Stand your ground.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:41 PM   #7024
bross
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New pegs!

Picked these up for my wife's bike yesterday and just got them installed...



bit bigger platform for standing than the stock pegs


stock


PivotPegz


She only rode from the shop back up to the house but said they feel good.

I like the feel of them so may have to get a pair for my DR.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:29 PM   #7025
ben2go
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
I've heard that overheating the motor can actually warp the clutch plates. But shouldn't problems with a new bike be covered under warranty?
You heard correctly.When it happens the clutch will stick and become draggy like the lever isn't in far enough.I just replaced a clutch that was doing that in one of my GS5's.
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:02 AM   #7026
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Is it bad to use synetic oil when the bike has only 200 miles?

If so, when can I switch to synthetic?
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:14 AM   #7027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
Is it bad to use synetic oil when the bike has only 200 miles?

If so, when can I switch to synthetic?
I use full synthetic in all our bikes from the first service on. Synthetic is just oil, only better than Dino oil. Everything else is just myth. I use AMSOIL 10W40 in all our bikes.
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:56 AM   #7028
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I've spoken with many old school engine fanatics over the years in regards to single cylinder motorcycle engines and the unanimous conclusion was to use dino oil during break in, then switch to synthetic. The idea is that dino oil allows for better wear in of the parts experiencing friction, particularly the rings. Everyone seems to differ on how they like to do break in and when you should change the oil over to synthetic so I adopted a marriage of several different theories:

Cycle 1: Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature while at idle. Shut it down and let it air cool to ambient.

Cycle 2: Start the bike and allow a brief warm up, then ride it easy in the lower-mid rpm range with as little load on the engine as you can manage. Avoid fast acceleration and whatever you do, don't lug it. Stay out of top gear and don't keep the rpms the same for more than a few seconds. Residential streets are pretty much ideal for this step. Ride for 10-15 minutes like this and then park it again and let it cool off to ambient.

Cycle 3: Another 10-15 minute ride while varying the throttle. Again, no top gear and avoid lugging it at all costs. This time you'll want light-medium power and mix in a short burst of acceleration every 30-60 seconds or so. I generally will hit WOT on the last 4 or 5 power bursts. Park it and while the bike is still warm, change the oil and filter. Again, stick with dino oil.

Cycle 4: Fill the tank and repeat this step until it's empty. Only ride for 15-20 minute sessions, and keep varying the RPM. You'll want some WOT but don't make the engine work too hard for too long. Whatever you do, don't lug it. The idea is to make the engine work at maximum output, but not overheat. Allow ample cooling time between fast WOT moments. Let the engine cool to ambient after each ride. After the tank is empty you need to change the oil and filter again using dino oil.

Cycle 5: Ride the bike however you want. Always avoid lugging since nothing is harder on the engine. Once you hit 1000 miles, switch to synthetic.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:35 AM   #7029
Klay
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I broke my 200 in by riding it flat out up the highway from 5,000 feet to 10,000 feet in the front range in Colorado. Frankly, the motor is so overbuilt that I don't think it much matters.
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:18 PM   #7030
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
I've spoken with many old school engine fanatics over the years in regards to single cylinder motorcycle engines and the unanimous conclusion was to use dino oil during break in, then switch to synthetic. The idea is that dino oil allows for better wear in of the parts experiencing friction, particularly the rings. Everyone seems to differ on how they like to do break in and when you should change the oil over to synthetic so I adopted a marriage of several different theories:

Cycle 1: Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature while at idle. Shut it down and let it air cool to ambient.

Cycle 2: Start the bike and allow a brief warm up, then ride it easy in the lower-mid rpm range with as little load on the engine as you can manage. Avoid fast acceleration and whatever you do, don't lug it. Stay out of top gear and don't keep the rpms the same for more than a few seconds. Residential streets are pretty much ideal for this step. Ride for 10-15 minutes like this and then park it again and let it cool off to ambient.

Cycle 3: Another 10-15 minute ride while varying the throttle. Again, no top gear and avoid lugging it at all costs. This time you'll want light-medium power and mix in a short burst of acceleration every 30-60 seconds or so. I generally will hit WOT on the last 4 or 5 power bursts. Park it and while the bike is still warm, change the oil and filter. Again, stick with dino oil.

Cycle 4: Fill the tank and repeat this step until it's empty. Only ride for 15-20 minute sessions, and keep varying the RPM. You'll want some WOT but don't make the engine work too hard for too long. Whatever you do, don't lug it. The idea is to make the engine work at maximum output, but not overheat. Allow ample cooling time between fast WOT moments. Let the engine cool to ambient after each ride. After the tank is empty you need to change the oil and filter again using dino oil.

Cycle 5: Ride the bike however you want. Always avoid lugging since nothing is harder on the engine. Once you hit 1000 miles, switch to synthetic.
That sounds like a very sound break in procedure. Personally I just don't think you need to go to that level. I agree with everything except the oil changes. Change the oil at the first service and just ride.

The key point in your method is "the old school", so many things have changed, for the better since the "good old days". Better oil, better metallurgy, better manufacturing even on our 20 year old DRs.
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:26 PM   #7031
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Did my first fill up today. Incredible! Used up 2.5 gallons. Odometer said 210 miles. There's still 1 more gallon in the tank.

I'm so glad I didn't buy the CRF250...having to refill every 80 miles would suck.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:44 PM   #7032
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Originally Posted by bross View Post
That sounds like a very sound break in procedure. Personally I just don't think you need to go to that level. I agree with everything except the oil changes. Change the oil at the first service and just ride.

The key point in your method is "the old school", so many things have changed, for the better since the "good old days". Better oil, better metallurgy, better manufacturing even on our 20 year old DRs.

Syntetic oils didn't hit the market until the late 60's. When you think about it, the DR engine has more in common with a late 60's VW engine than anything I can think of on the market today. That old school thought process still applies well to quite a few "modern" dirtbike engines.
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Old 07-13-2013, 10:09 AM   #7033
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Bluhduh Flat spot in mid-power range

Earlier I posted that I was having cut-out issues with the DR. I've had a chance to put a few hundred miles on the '06. I've cleaned the carb. I have a "flat-spot" in the mid power band at cruise. The bike purr's like a kitten at idle. And It runs great at the higher RPM's. It's the cruise area at the shift point's that I'm having issues. Once I shift into the next gear, if I don't continue accelerating it behaves like it's running out of gas. It's when I try to hold a constant speed in the mid-rpms that the problem arises. It backfires, hesitates and act's exactly like it's running out of fuel. When I open up the throttle the problem goes away. Also if I shift aggressively thru the gears I never have an issue. I feel like I have to wring-out the motor to prevent the problem. I guess I can live with it. But, it just doesn't seem right. I've considered the Kientech jet kit that seems so prevalent on the forum. I've also considered putting a little thicker washer under the main jet. I'm just not sure where to start as far as thickness goes.
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Old 07-13-2013, 11:35 AM   #7034
Klay
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Is the carb for sure thoroughly cleaned? It shouldn't be doing that.
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:07 PM   #7035
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suseuser View Post
Earlier I posted that I was having cut-out issues with the DR. I've had a chance to put a few hundred miles on the '06. I've cleaned the carb. I have a "flat-spot" in the mid power band at cruise. The bike purr's like a kitten at idle. And It runs great at the higher RPM's. It's the cruise area at the shift point's that I'm having issues. Once I shift into the next gear, if I don't continue accelerating it behaves like it's running out of gas. It's when I try to hold a constant speed in the mid-rpms that the problem arises. It backfires, hesitates and act's exactly like it's running out of fuel. When I open up the throttle the problem goes away. Also if I shift aggressively thru the gears I never have an issue. I feel like I have to wring-out the motor to prevent the problem. I guess I can live with it. But, it just doesn't seem right. I've considered the Kientech jet kit that seems so prevalent on the forum. I've also considered putting a little thicker washer under the main jet. I'm just not sure where to start as far as thickness goes.
Here's a diagram to show what jets are in play at the different throttle openings. I would clean or replace the appropriate jet.



Taken from this website...
http://www.dansmc.com/carbs2.htm
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