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Old 07-17-2013, 08:21 AM   #8281
Aaron from Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
It is probably a fried pulse generator.
At nearly 30 years old these bikes need every electrical replaced.
I did it all in one shot. PG, CDI, coil, stator. The bike runs fantastic.
I sure hope so.

I forgot to mention I have a new CDI, coil, stator, and plug boot.

I ordered everything in "one shot" but last time I checked the PG, it tested within spec, but that was like 3 years ago... Even though this thing hasn't ran in nearly 15y ears, it's like the electronics just rot away...

I'm gonna replace it tonight and see how things go. Any tips for the right side cover R&R?

Also... what is the best material used to seal up the airbox boots? Mine look fine, but I'm sure that wouldn't hurt.
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Aaron from Texas screwed with this post 07-17-2013 at 08:31 AM
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:23 AM   #8282
Reposado1800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk the Jerk View Post
I sure hope so.

I forgot to mention I have a new CDI, coil, stator, and plug boot.

I ordered everything in "one shot" but last time I checked the PG, it tested within spec, but that was like 3 years ago... Even though this thing hasn't ran in nearly 15y ears, it's like the electronics just rot away...

I'm gonna replace it tonight and see how things go. Any tips for the right side cover R&R?

Also... what is the best material used to seal up the airbox boots? Mine look fine, but I'm sure that wouldn't hurt.
Just lay it over to the left so the oil doesnt drain out. The PG is 2 bolts. I use permatex non hardening sealer on everything, boots, grommets etc. It works good.
The heat kills all the electrical parts. Running an oil cooler should extend the life though for the new parts.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:47 AM   #8283
The Roadie
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Location: Akron, Ohio
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Originally Posted by RFVC600R View Post
Oh and he plenty of good parts, he is only interested in selling to someone who is going to put them to use. For example, he wants $50 for rims. He doesn't have time to ship them so if anybody wants anything I'll have to pick them up for you and ship them to you. Let me know, he said nothing is going anywhere anytime soon.

exhaust sytem
carbys
Forks
Frame
Gas tank
Rims
Swing Arm
Shock
etc etc

If only I had a lil more money lol
What condition and color is the tank? How much? Also the rims? ...I just recently bought a '82 500r.. so much fun
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:31 PM   #8284
Aaron from Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
Just lay it over to the left so the oil doesnt drain out. The PG is 2 bolts. I use permatex non hardening sealer on everything, boots, grommets etc. It works good.
The heat kills all the electrical parts. Running an oil cooler should extend the life though for the new parts.
Well, I got the PG swapped. Made sure my throttle cables were adjusted properly (because of the idle issue), and took off for a spin. The power seems to be back, it's actually surprising me how powerful it is. But it's still lugging around 60-70 mph and the decel pop is still there.

Occasionally it seems worse than it was before the diaphragm swap and now this odd idle speed issue has started. It doesn't matter how much I close the throttle (and I know the push cable is tight) the engine will just scream on its own...

Could there be an issue using this new diaphragm with the old spring? Could the new diaphragm be defective?

I'm at a loss... The only symptoms before the new diaphragm was the decel pop and lugging over 60...

One other thing I checked was the resistance on the coil. The primary (between the two connections) checked okay, but the resistance between the secondary (connection and boot) was low... This was a new coil I got from Ricky Stator...
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:23 PM   #8285
Schrauberklaus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk the Jerk View Post
Well, I got the PG swapped. Made sure my throttle cables were adjusted properly (because of the idle issue), and took off for a spin. The power seems to be back, it's actually surprising me how powerful it is. But it's still lugging around 60-70 mph and the decel pop is still there.

Occasionally it seems worse than it was before the diaphragm swap and now this odd idle speed issue has started. It doesn't matter how much I close the throttle (and I know the push cable is tight) the engine will just scream on its own...

Could there be an issue using this new diaphragm with the old spring? Could the new diaphragm be defective?

I'm at a loss... The only symptoms before the new diaphragm was the decel pop and lugging over 60...

One other thing I checked was the resistance on the coil. The primary (between the two connections) checked okay, but the resistance between the secondary (connection and boot) was low... This was a new coil I got from Ricky Stator...

Hi

As you swap the diaphragma , dit you make sure that the little O-Ring
next to the diaphragma is in place ?
Right way around ? , it has two differnt sides , Flat side goes to the Carb body .
If your old spring has enough tension to push the pin in the center of the diaphragma against the spring behind the Air cut valve itself then its fine .
But at idle the low pressure in front of the Carbslide go over a small bore (sealed by the o-ring) to the spring side of the diaphragma and compress the spring so the pin is pulled back and the Aircut valve can close . If the O- Ring leak or is lost you get a leak and the Aircut Valve can never close and the mix at idle is not correct .
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:42 PM   #8286
RFVC600R
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Well project has halted.I couldn't get one of the bolts on the side of the cylinder off It just stripped when I twisted 10mm wrench. Oh well, going to the machine shop tomorrow anyway.
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'83 Honda XL600R 618cc 11:1 Wiseco, XR's Only Exhaust, big tube header, 6 Sigma stage 3 carb mods

Quote:
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He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.

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Old 07-18-2013, 06:33 AM   #8287
Aaron from Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schrauberklaus View Post
Hi

As you swap the diaphragma , dit you make sure that the little O-Ring
next to the diaphragma is in place ?
Right way around ? , it has two differnt sides , Flat side goes to the Carb body .
If your old spring has enough tension to push the pin in the center of the diaphragma against the spring behind the Air cut valve itself then its fine .
But at idle the low pressure in front of the Carbslide go over a small bore (sealed by the o-ring) to the spring side of the diaphragma and compress the spring so the pin is pulled back and the Aircut valve can close . If the O- Ring leak or is lost you get a leak and the Aircut Valve can never close and the mix at idle is not correct .
Yes, the new one came with a new o-ring, and I just went ahead and swapped that as well, flat side against the carb body. The old spring was actually longer than the new one...

Are there any external vacuum lines that control the carbs at all, or is all the vacuum pulled internally? I thought I traced all the lines, and they all seemed to either be breather tubes or drain tubes, so I couldn't see if a cracked line would cause any issues.

I guess I can pull the carbs again and swap in the "new" spring, but I'm not sure how that would change anything. Again, the new spring is shorter and beehive shaped...
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:59 AM   #8288
Reposado1800
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Maybe an intake manifold leak.
Check the exhaust doughnut and header copper orings for leaks.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:22 AM   #8289
Schrauberklaus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk the Jerk View Post
Yes, the new one came with a new o-ring, and I just went ahead and swapped that as well, flat side against the carb body. The old spring was actually longer than the new one...

Are there any external vacuum lines that control the carbs at all, or is all the vacuum pulled internally? I thought I traced all the lines, and they all seemed to either be breather tubes or drain tubes, so I couldn't see if a cracked line would cause any issues.

I guess I can pull the carbs again and swap in the "new" spring, but I'm not sure how that would change anything. Again, the new spring is shorter and beehive shaped...
External Vacoum lines only if you have the california model carb .
Maybe its a manifold leak , maybe the Aircut valve is sticky and don't close even when the diaphragma pulls the pin back .
Dit you test that ?
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:36 AM   #8290
RFVC600R
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The new head is in excellent condition The machine guy told me to just wire brush the black shit off and slap it in. Too bad I got to watch the kid today while my wife is at work. I'm getting anxious!

Edit: The camshaft from the 84' looks trashed, It's blackened on two lobes, can it be saved? not too important though.
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'83 Honda XL600R 618cc 11:1 Wiseco, XR's Only Exhaust, big tube header, 6 Sigma stage 3 carb mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.

RFVC600R screwed with this post 07-18-2013 at 11:43 AM
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:47 AM   #8291
Aaron from Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
Maybe an intake manifold leak.
Check the exhaust doughnut and header copper orings for leaks.
I just replaced those, and have been tightening them down to spec through various heat cycles...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schrauberklaus View Post
External Vacoum lines only if you have the california model carb .
Maybe its a manifold leak , maybe the Aircut valve is sticky and don't close even when the diaphragma pulls the pin back .
Dit you test that ?
I have the Cali model... Vacuum lines EVERYWHERE.

Gonna check for manifold leaks... How do I test the valve?
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:58 PM   #8292
RFVC600R
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Anymore tips before I reassemble? The only problem I see is the tensioner. What about getting the piston back in the cylinder? anything I need to do special or watch out for?? what's a good assembly lubricant?
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'83 Honda XL600R 618cc 11:1 Wiseco, XR's Only Exhaust, big tube header, 6 Sigma stage 3 carb mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:39 PM   #8293
davek181
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I put the piston into the cylinder while it is off the bike so I can have better control and visual confirmation of ring compression. Then I slide it onto the engine and install the pin and clips. Stuff rages in the open cylinder hole so you don't drop the clips.

There are several posts online involving the tensioner, Some use zip tyes to hold it in place, others fabricate a tool to go into the hole like the factory one.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:42 PM   #8294
Schrauberklaus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk the Jerk View Post
I just replaced those, and have been tightening them down to spec through various heat cycles...



I have the Cali model... Vacuum lines EVERYWHERE.

Gonna check for manifold leaks... How do I test the valve?
Then check that all external hoses are correct connect and without leak .

Aircut Valve check : remove Diaphragma push the small plate by hand with a small screwdriver , check by eye its moving in and out then test its sealing with a few drops of gasoline
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:51 PM   #8295
Reposado1800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davek181 View Post
I put the piston into the cylinder while it is off the bike so I can have better control and visual confirmation of ring compression. Then I slide it onto the engine and install the pin and clips. Stuff rages in the open cylinder hole so you don't drop the clips.

There are several posts online involving the tensioner, Some use zip tyes to hold it in place, others fabricate a tool to go into the hole like the factory one.
This might sound weird but I put rings in dry and the gaps all in line. Then after rings are in the jug I swipe oil on the piston skirt. Crazy but it works. Rings break in immediately.
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