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Old 07-15-2013, 01:14 PM   #1831
GoinRidin
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At the risk of starting another oil discussion.

Went slabbing with some Ducati buddies yesterday and feel I rode pretty hard but about mid day I found i was having trouble finding Neutral at stops (not impossible but not obvious without rocking and light feathering clutch) I also found that if stopped while in High gear and I was downshifting while sitting still I would have to let the clutch out some and back in to help it go into a lower gear if that makes sense?

I have 750-850 miles on this oil change with Castrol Power RS Racing 4T synthetic High Performance Oil 10W50 filled to 1/2 sight glass when upright and warmed to 4-bars.

These Symptoms improve when the bike cools down or is cold.

Never ran more than 4 bars on Coolant temp and fans were rarely on didn't run hot enough while moving for them to come on and while sitting they kicked on once before turning it off when we stopped for a break. I would initially think too thin of oil for hot summer riding since it improves when cool but I'm using the desired 10w50 even though we have 90F-degree days!

Anyway I ask because I am gun shy with a previous bike that had Oil related issues and I do NOT want to chance anything on this great bike!

you can say " ...this is Normal, Forget about it."
"You idiot why did you use that oil! your SOL"
"change Oil and try X weight or X Oil"
or (Enter your own critical or useful response here)

Thanks Ya'll

Goin' Ridin'
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:20 PM   #1832
randel
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I managed to fit my fuel pump in original location, but fitted to the frame with little aluminium bracket. No problems so far, allthoughit was a tight fit between cylinder and fuel tank. I have benefitted from this change several times already when I had to pull my tank (jetting adjustments and carb cleaning). I have to pull only 2 fuel lines and fuel level sensor wiring connector to remove fuel tank now.
What is common understanding about water pump seal and shaft, how long will they last currently?
I changed them as a precaution at 30000km 2 years ago and am at 50000km now. Should I change shaft and seals before upcoming 9000km trip or has KTM improved theyr quality? I would prefer to change them after trip together with adjusting valves etc.
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:54 AM   #1833
wilso122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoinRidin View Post
I have 750-850 miles on this oil change with Castrol Power RS Racing 4T synthetic High Performance Oil 10W50 filled to 1/2 sight glass when upright and warmed to 4-bars.
Some thoughts on this.
  1. Oil - It states ' Its anti-friction formulation is proven to increase acceleration compared to conventional motorcycle oils.' Ive had issues with castrol oils with this anti friction stuff causing clutch slip on other bikes, could be the issue, could not be. I always put in the manufactures recommended liquid gold to be on the safe side...
  2. Oil Jet - When did you last clean this / flush it through? could be a blocked jet. Its the one by the clutch slave.
  3. Clutch Slave - Are you running Standard or aftermarket? The standard ones are plastic are flex when hot, if you have not already think about changing it before it lets you down. Went for the oberon on mine.


HTH
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:53 AM   #1834
Brown Dog
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Why would you Stop in High Gear ?
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:06 AM   #1835
GoinRidin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilso122 View Post
Some thoughts on this.
  1. Oil - It states ' Its anti-friction formulation is proven to increase acceleration compared to conventional motorcycle oils.' Ive had issues with castrol oils with this anti friction stuff causing clutch slip on other bikes, could be the issue, could not be. I always put in the manufactures recommended liquid gold to be on the safe side...
  2. Oil Jet - When did you last clean this / flush it through? could be a blocked jet. Its the one by the clutch slave.
  3. Clutch Slave - Are you running Standard or aftermarket? The standard ones are plastic are flex when hot, if you have not already think about changing it before it lets you down. Went for the oberon on mine.


HTH
I still have stock slave cylinder. I'm jobless at this time and trying to keep the bike out of sight and not drawing attention (spending money on it) because I don't want it on the chopping block. I will keep an eye out in the flea market.

I'll also change oil

I cleaned oil Jet the last oil change.

I don't commonly stop in high gear. But I was following and if they decided to stop quick I may just pull clutch and brake hard.
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:28 AM   #1836
BENRON
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fwiw, My SE can also be finicky about finding neutral when it's good and hot with the engine running.

I've never worried about it.
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:43 PM   #1837
Monterey_BS
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RadGuard (Australia) Radiator Guard

RadGuard - I need a radiator guard and am curious to know whether anybody has experience with this piece of kit and the folks who make them.
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:17 AM   #1838
KaaJa
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What is the thickness of a waterpump cover o-ring?
Its leaking and I cant get original part fast enough so I try to make one from o-ring material.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:54 AM   #1839
SpeedyR
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cut intake for foam dome filter?

and another question- those that have added a CPR or other similar filter (sportingwoods), how much did you trim the air intakes to fit? If anyone has a photo or can just describe how much they trimmed I'd appreciate it.

wasn't sure if I should take off the belled/flared area, or if it's the height that needs to be reduced, or if you are really just using the intake to hold the plate in place and you really cut it down.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:11 AM   #1840
wilso122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedyR View Post
wasn't sure if I should take off the belled/flared area, or if it's the height that needs to be reduced, or if you are really just using the intake to hold the plate in place and you really cut it down.

I cut off the belled/flared are so about 1/2inch to an inch, there was a flat bit on the side from memory and I cut straight over from the top of that.

hth if not can see if I can get a photo for you over the weekend.
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:33 AM   #1841
Colorado Uli
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Clutch hoser

Oi! I've pinched the clutch hose enought to have to replace it now. Anyone know how long it is so I can try to find one that doesn't cost $1,000,000,000?

Danke from the Uli
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:12 PM   #1842
Boatman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado Uli View Post
Oi! I've pinched the clutch hose enought to have to replace it now. Anyone know how long it is so I can try to find one that doesn't cost $1,000,000,000?

Danke from the Uli

I just happen to have a brand new in sealed package clutch pipe that I don't need. If you're interested, PM me and I can save you some money.
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:49 PM   #1843
Behindbars
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The bolt in the center with oil residue. What does it do and why do I have oil residue?
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:22 PM   #1844
JRod152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Behindbars View Post
The bolt in the center with oil residue. What does it do and why do I have oil residue?
When you remove "that bolt", you have access for the tool/bolt can find the notches in the crank. This confirms TDC w/ correct camshaft orientation and ensures no movement during a valve check and camshaft removal, etc.

See HERE



If it's leaking or seaping, retorque... 10NM. If it doesnt seal, replace the copper washer, or anneal (soften) it.
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:02 AM   #1845
HickOnACrick
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Case question

So first off, I have noticed with every recent oil change (now 15K on the bike) that the bolts one removes to drain the oil, and clean the filters, have all shown some significant wear. Effectively, they all go from a linear, parallel profile, to more of a coke-bottle profile where the middle of the bolt is narrower than the tip and the part closest to the head. This applies to to the M6 and M8 bolts, not the actual drain plug.

Seeing this, and after snapping off one of these bolts while removing it for an oil change last year, I opted to replace the bolts with stainless steel - I don't recommend this as I think the stainless steel bolts in the softer metal case causes problems...which is what I will get to now.

2 oil changes later, while replacing the lowest bolt that holds the oil filter cap, the bolt snapped off at the head, in the case. While using a bolt extractor to get the bolt out, the part of the case where the bolt resides cracked. This part of the case is contiguous with the entire left-sided engine case.

Now my question...Is the case Magnesium or Aluminum? The bike is 2500 miles from home, and I want to get it welded and re-tapped.

Learn from my mistakes? It is probably worth replacing all those bolts (6 in all - 4 on the left and 2 on the right) whenever doing an oil change, or at least at regular intervals.
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