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Old 07-21-2013, 06:36 PM   #16
wrk2surf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryShawn View Post
On my 450x I run the Dunlop D739 rear w/uhd tube and slime (may try a rear mousse this year) and Dunlop MX51 in the front with a mousse.
Last year we did the whole race on one rear tire, but of course it was smoked at the end. Front still had plenty of play ride life left.
Having a spare wheel set is definitely good insurance, its a long race and you never know what will happen.

there are a few rocks to hit in 550 miles
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:05 PM   #17
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For sure, this weekend we did a quick shakedown run and Ray hit a rock and flatted within the first 30 miles.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:15 PM   #18
Goofy Footer
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Question for you guys - In your opinion how does this race compare to other races (Baja 500, Nat H&H, Norra) from a racer's perspective?

-ie fun factor, price/value, race terrain, accessibility (to event and for pit crews), safety, bad-ass-ness factor ha




I'm just trying to get a lay of the land. V2R is the Longest Off-Road Race in the US which is badass!
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:10 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goofy Footer View Post
Question for you guys - In your opinion how does this race compare to other races (Baja 500, Nat H&H, Norra) from a racer's perspective?

-ie fun factor, price/value, race terrain, accessibility (to event and for pit crews), safety, bad-ass-ness factor ha

I'm just trying to get a lay of the land. V2R is the Longest Off-Road Race in the US which is badass!
NORRA Mex 1000 is the most FUN race.

The course is 2 track, so of course it can't be as technical as a Nat H&H.

V2R has lots of rocks, powerline roads, lots of rock, lots of silt, and of course lots of rocks.......most likely there is a rock with your name on it out there.

Prolly the best pit access of any race. Your crew can hit most of the pits

Everything else (Price/value, safety) is all relative and are what you make of them.

V2R is a good race to step up and play with the big boys.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:53 PM   #20
johnBOYhenson
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!Rooms

If anybody has an extra room in beatty they aren't going to use, please let me know?

looking forward to it
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:56 PM   #21
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If anybody has an extra room in beatty they aren't going to use, please let me know?

looking forward to it
See: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=903990

Draw order and other info posted today:
http://bitd.com/item/8-race-information.html

I'm starting 9th in IM AM
Guess I should start training
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:50 PM   #22
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some thoughts

When I broke the wheels down to remove the mousses after our run in 2011, I took a close look at the front mousse. It was pinched through in no less than 18 spots. I credit it for saving us from at least that many flat tires. Yes, there are a few rocks between Vegas and Reno. The rear was fine. We ran the Dunlop 739/MX51 combo and also made the entire race on the same set of tires. I still have the 739 hung on the wall in the garage as a trophy. Yep, it's bald.

Here's some advice for all you ironmen. DO NOT view this as a race. Just look at it as a nice long trailride where you're just going to ride at your own pace...with a whole bunch of other guys. I ironmanned it in 2006 starting 3rd off the line in the class. Within the first 10 miles I had passed the two guys ahead of me because they were both on the ground from pushing too hard. Eventually I started to get cocky and over-cooked a couple of corners (and low-sided). Then I remembered - It's just a trailride. Turn it down a notch or two. I really wanted to ride every mile of that course (586 that year) and show the naysayers that I could make it. I was happy when I finished...and ecstatic when I found out that I got third expert ironman!

If you get behind someone, stay patient. The right time to pass will reveal its self. Just sit back there and make the guy nervous. Show him a wheel once in a while. He'll either crash trying to keep you back there or pull over and let you by. Either way, you're getting around him because there's plenty of time.

Here's a tip for those with an odometer than you can set to any number. When you set up your pit strategy, you'll know how many race miles there are between each of your pits. Assuming it's less than 100, subtract that number from 100 and roll your odometer to the resulting number at each pit. For instance, if you're going to pit at pit 4 and at pit 6 with 73 race miles between them, have someone roll your odometer to 27 at pit 4. As you near pit 6 your odometer will read closer and closer to 100. For me it was purely a psychological thing that gave me a lot of comfort knowing approximately where I was on the course and how far it was to the smiling face of my girlfriend carrying the platter full of munchies. I had a member of my crew who's number one priority was making sure my odometer read the proper number. This was huge for me!

Good luck to all of the teams and BE SAFE! I was a member of a three man team in 2007 and my cousin was one of the first riders to encounter the kid who died that year. I don't envy him that memory. A lot of competitors pulled out of the race after seeing that wreck.

Tom
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Old 07-25-2013, 01:41 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowbronco View Post

If you get behind someone, stay patient. The right time to pass will reveal its self. Just sit back there and make the guy nervous. Show him a wheel once in a while. He'll either crash trying to keep you back there or pull over and let you by. Either way, you're getting around him because there's plenty of time.
Sorry but that is dreadful advice. If you are quicker than the guy in front you should be able to hang back if neccessary then get straight past him at an appropriate point, not "sit back there and make the guy nervous" that is the behaviour of a person who thinks they are quick, but actually they're not. Not to mention it's ungentlemanly and unsportsman-like.
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:19 AM   #24
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Well, the point is don't ride beyond your skill level to make the pass like I've been told to do in shorter races. The thought is, if you blow by someone, you psychologically beat him at the same time and he won't battle you for the position. I don't think that's the best method in a race of this length. If you try to pass and he upps his game, stay patient. Don't ride over your head, hang back and wait. The right opportunity will come. Otherwise, you might push too hard at the wrong time, say, before the wind has blown his dust aside, tag a rock and go careening off the road. That sucks!

Early on in the '06 race I had caught a Pro quad and I was trying to work my way through his dust to show him a wheel. It was early in the morning so there was no wind and the damned stuff would just hang in the air. I was pushing really hard to get close to him so he would know I was there. Then I hit a large rock hidden in the dust. Luckily I hit it square and went straight up instead of deflecting off to the side. I backed off and was soon passed by one of my competitors in the ironman class who thought he could push through the dust. Eventually we hit a wide open valley and the wind kicked up. The guy ahead of me finally stuck a wheel inside the quad who quickly pulled over. The guy on the bike messed up and stalled his engine and I got them both. I never saw either of them again after that. Oh, and by the midpoint in the race, word in the pits was that the guy who stalled passing the quad had wrecked so badly that he couldn't continue - and this was directly from his pit crew.

Especially for the ironmen in this race, you're starting behind all of the pro bike classes, all of the expert bike team classes and the pro quad classes and, in the case of the amateur ironmen, you're starting behind all of the amateur team classes as well (and maybe the expert quads, too if Casey remains consistent in his starting order). This means that you'll probably spend a little more time passing than your average team will because you've got all of the "slow guys on the team" ahead of you at one point or another. Consequently, you'll probably spend a lot of time getting passed as well because of the "fast guys on the team". Let em go. They're not your concern unless you're battling for overall position, which is foolish for your average rider in the ironman class. Let the pros who drop into the expert ironman class and want to prove something getting the overall solo try to battle for overall position with fresh team riders.
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yellowbronco screwed with this post 07-25-2013 at 06:59 AM
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:42 AM   #25
wrk2surf
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all I can add is if you are soloing, it is without a doubt one of the hardest things you will ever try!! I know it was for me... 10 hrs at least in the saddle is a total drain on everything..
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:01 PM   #26
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I'm thinking I might run this one Iron man....I know I'm late on entry and really don't care. I think great advise was given in not treating it like a race and that is what I would be doing. A finish would be a win. I live in Reno so logistically it is very do able. I am not much of a desert blaster much more of a single track type of guy but I got a taste in the Baja 500 and want a little more. We will see but I think I'm throwing down on Tuesday.

Good Luck to the for sure entrants.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:25 AM   #27
ktmJOE
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Does Dunlop make mousse for their mx51 and d739 tire? Or you guys run Michelin mousse? I cant find any Dunlop mousse online. What would be a good source to buy from? Thanks
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:34 AM   #28
wrk2surf
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they did yrs ago but since stopped.. hell they dont make heavy or extra heavy duty tubes.... Mx1west carries MEFO and Michelin Mousses and on another note they have discontinued the 739At and have replaced it with the AT81 and AT81 Desert RC
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:35 AM   #29
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Most people use the Michelin Mousse.
Mefo is also a good choice but they are not as easily obtained.
The good folks at www.MX1West.com can get you either brand, give them a call at: 888-MX1-WEST (888-691-9378)
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:22 AM   #30
ktmJOE
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Thanks for the answers. How about using Michelin desert tires front and rear? Is the rear to wide for the stock 450x wheels? Or is the high price that keeps the riders from using them? I used them on my rallye bikes and never had any issues or flats. They also last very long. Sorry guys for all this questions but I never raced desert here in US and I would like to use what has been proven to work and what most people use.
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