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Old 07-18-2013, 12:00 PM   #16
MortimerSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fundy Rider View Post
...how do you manage to get the voltmeter prongs up in the connector.
...
I didn't like the idea of stabbing probes through the seals and into the connector, so I unplugged it and ran jumpers to make the connection. I could then just clip onto the jumpers for the reading.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:37 PM   #17
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Good Idea!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
I didn't like the idea of stabbing probes through the seals and into the connector, so I unplugged it and ran jumpers to make the connection. I could then just clip onto the jumpers for the reading.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:57 PM   #18
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At it again

Well went at it again today. I will try to keep it short and sweet.

Easy enough to get the carbs off still connected.

Found the front IMS at 2.25 and rear at 2.0. Set both at 2.25.

Did start better but same issue.

Set both at 2.5 and still same issue.

Checked TPS and in specs off throttle and full throttle.

Then I turned the IMS screws one more quarter turn to 2.75.

It started with a lot more crispness and thought I had it. It hung at 1700rpm for some time.

The fan came on at four bars and still there at 1700 and then up to five bars and then it fell again to around 1200rpm.

There is something I noticed that happens every so often when the idle drops. There is and audible click and can feel something through the handlebars. It doesn't do this every time the idle drops but when it does it is as if someone hit a switch. The idle does drop without it as well and only when the bike is up to full temp will it drop.

I maybe wrong but at 2.75 turns out on the IMS am I at the limit?

To clear up what lines where blocked they are the two coming from each manifold. They were open before the service.

Could it be just something clogged after they were blocked and the vacuum may have pulled some dirt from the lines.

Now after today I think I could get through taking the carbs off completely and setting the tps after.

Any ideas? Maybe seafoam before I rip the carbs apart(do I need to change the oil after a heavy dose?).

If I do end up taking the carbs apart are there any springs or anything to watch out for. Same for the TPS and Enricher.

If it wasn't for the forum no way would I have taken this on so thanks to all.

I think I will take the KLR for a ride tomorrow and get back at it Sunday as I need a little mental break. Ten hrs at it so far and I am running out of hair to pull out.

Thanks again for all your time and patience with me.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:40 PM   #19
geometrician
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Eek er, correction

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmann View Post
richen mixture screws (turn out)
this is an AIR pilot screw circuit. Opening it increases the air, not the fuel in the pilot circuit.

generally (100% of the time?) the AIR pilot screw is on the engine (intake manifold) side of a carb body; the FUEL pilot screw is on the intake side of the carb body.

If one had FCRs or TM flatslides it would be a fuel screw... our sucky old Keihin CVK's use the pilot screw for adjusting air mixture in the pilot circuit

therefore opening (the number of turns out from fully closed) the AIR screw will allow more AIR in the mixture (lean)- not more (rich) FUEL.

had to clear this up so our poor OP doesn't get (more?) confused & to prevent people mis-taking that statement as the correct one

---------------------

and +2 on the FLEXJET II's. If you don't have access to a dyno with air/fuel ratio montioring then "seat of the pants" tuning is the norm. Flexjets allow you to ride the bike in a few seconds over the same stretch of road- which is where subtle (real-world) results are to be obtained.

AND don't forget to check your air filter- when dirt builds up performance is affected- esp in the low/mid range RPMs (I know it was just serviced- but hey look at it)
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:04 AM   #20
geometrician
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fundy Rider View Post
Did you wake up on the wrong side of the bed today?


Fundy you aren't being quoted... not sure how you inferred all that. OC doesn't generally roll towards sniping at posters it's a helpful crowd here

Only making sure that our terminology is correct- so that our diagnosis & solutions follow suit. In this case air & fuel are opposites when it comes to the pilot circuit adjusting screw & the effects on jetting/operation.

KTM even got it "wrong" a few degrees by referring to these as "idle adjustment". It's the pilot circuit, not the idle circuit.

And yes by the time you get close to 3 turns out you are reaching the limits of useful adjustment on the pilot screw. Better to go to a leaner pilot fuel jet.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:20 AM   #21
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I just came in after another unsuccessful day and the poor op kind of rubbed me the wrong way. After an eight hr ride, the expense of a hotel and such to get the bike properly serviced to only have it run worse has me very frustrated especially when I have been laid off since April. I have done all my wrenching up to this point.

I am no mechanic but am trying to learn here. I really really appreciate all the help on this forum.

Don't want to be a pain but just can't afford to make a mistake as I will have to park it and the klr just doesn't cut it anymore. Great bike but well you know.

Can I ask something else? Reading many threads on this issue many have cleaned up there jets and such to only have the issue remain. Do the emulsion tubes effect the idle as well or just the mains.

I am leaning toward running some seafoam in a heavy dose first or is this ass backwards.


I apologize and realize your intentions.
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Old 07-22-2013, 06:11 AM   #22
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Talking

Finished messing with the IMS screws and no success and checked all boots and made sure the four holes off the manifold were properly blocked so vacuum problems are eliminated.

Checked vacuum lines and front at 275mm and rear at 250mm.

Put in some seafoam and will try it today.

Previous owner had a factory pro jet kit and they are notorious for being fat and would expect to have a 45 idle jet in there since this is what they recommend. If so will be putting in the 42 and will note float levels jets and such to have a baseline to go off of and go from there.

Hopefully the seafoam does the trick.
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:27 AM   #23
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This is a good guide:

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20...t/h2w_kit.html

Cheers
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:14 AM   #24
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Killing Thread

I tried the Seafoam and no such luck so I took the carbs off and going to give them a good clean and find out what is in there as far as jetting, needles float height and all air jets.

I am going to kill this thread since I am off topic and there is quite a lot of info out there but wanted to thank you for all your concern.

I may pm a few of you if I may for your help.
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