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Old 07-26-2013, 06:35 AM   #1
kb123 OP
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power outlet?

can my r75/5 handle a power outlet for heated vest?
thoughts are appreciated.
kevin
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:56 AM   #2
blaine.hale
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If you're on the stock charging system, that would be straining it pretty hard. Heated grips is about the limits...though I've heard of people doing a vest (not sure how successfully.)
You might want to check into an endurolast charging system.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:22 AM   #3
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At 70w for the vest (90W for a sleeved jacket liner), it'd nearly overtax the stock 180W charging system. But you don't run a heated vest at 100% all the time. For the initial warmup you may want 100% for a minute or two to get toasty but you'd be running it at 20-40% (15-30W) most of the time. Do-able.

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Old 07-26-2013, 08:31 AM   #4
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Upgrading to the /6 charging system will give you a little extra headroom, if you don't want to spend the money on the EME or Motorrad Elektrik alternator upgrades.
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Old 07-26-2013, 10:29 AM   #5
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That, too. And I'd forgotten that Motorrad Elektrik offers a /6 upgrade kit:

Quote:
High Output Alternator Conversion for /5 Boxers $200.00

Higher Output Alternator for /5-The 70 through 73 models have a 180 watt charging system and a small 18 amp-hour battery that has a hard time staying charged. To get the same 280 watt output that later boxers have, the stator is rewound and used with a new Omega diode board. Your stator is returned ready to install, with a new diode board. The supplied Omega diode board, is the same one as supplied with the 400 watt Omega alternator for Airheads.

http://www.motoelekt.com/charging.htm
which is a sensible way to go with the /5.

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Old 07-26-2013, 09:01 PM   #6
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would a gel battery help

bike did come with new gel battery. sounds like for occasional use things might be ok. what will i notice if this doesnt work? dead battery, etc?
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:17 PM   #7
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bike did come with new gel battery. sounds like for occasional use things might be ok. what will i notice if this doesnt work? dead battery, etc?
What happens? You won't have enough energy store in the battery to start it the next time.

Solution? Monitor the battery voltage while riding.. <13 volts = not charging enough. If < 13 then for the last 15 minutes of riding you really really need to reduce the electrical load so the voltage > 13. If <12 then immediately rediuce the electrical load!
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:37 AM   #8
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That is a good way to manage the vehicle electrics. I have an LED bar-graph voltmeter (Kuryakin brand) on mine. Reliable and readable at a glance. Even with a 450W alternator I have extra Halogen lighting and three levels of heated gear.

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Old 07-27-2013, 05:48 PM   #9
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Component Charging

This is my setup for charging my phone and ipod etc. Just ripped the outlet out of the wall and hooked it up!


My bike is a 76' R90/6 and I run a 90w heated jacket liner and sometimes have my gps hooked up and charge little devices. It seems to work ok but having all that running I always try to charge my bike after rides, especially shorter ones where the system wont be able to fully recharge.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:09 AM   #10
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That's the funniest damn thing I've seen all week. I like your style!
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:41 AM   #11
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FYI:

After installing the acewell speedo I did some tests with the volt meter. So if it's accurate, this is what I got with Girbings heated pants and jacket with I believe to be hot grips (came on bike) and an enduralast 450 watts @ 14V (32A) at 5,000 RPM. The out put is usually about 14.5 V at that RPM with a new healthy (Odyssey) battery.

Grips: aprox - 1 volt on high, think it's closer to 1/2 volt tho.

pants: aprox - 1 volt on high

jacket: aprox -1 volt on high

With every thing running on high the volts drop to 12 and continue to drop at a rate of about .5V every few seconds. So it looks like's that's too much for the hopped up alternator. If I shut off any one of those items the volts will recover, Any combination of two items will give me 13 to 13.5 volts.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:10 AM   #12
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As a side note. Problem with heated gear is it doesn't stop wind. So even with it on high it can still be cold as the wind comes through the gear.

I commute at night over a mountain pass here in the Pacific North West, temps even in the summer are in the 40s and 50s. I have found that if you can keep the wind out, you stay pretty warm at those temps. So I wear like a First Gear quilted one piece and layer accordingly. Honestly, rather than spend the money on heated stuff (which is nice) I would look at stuff like the suit I mentioned, or like the North Face wind stopper stuff. As an experament, try wearing a rain jacket or wind breaker over like a flannel shirt under your gear (Stuff you can get at good will). Then see if you still need heated gear.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:28 AM   #13
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Previous post is spot on. There are a couple of companies that make liner jackets that are not only reasonably windproof, but have a metallic liner that reflects a tremendous amount of heat back toward you. I use the Colombia Omniheat stuff, and have been pleased. Coupled with one of the lower draw heated liners (Warm and Safe makes one that is 65 watts and very nice), I've ridden all over with great results in temps as low as 20 f.

Get a voltage meter. There are some very good ones out there. The Heads Up is simple, and the display takes up no space whatsoever.

Generally, I find I have sufficient power with a mere 180 watts in most conditions except stop-and-go traffic.

Replace your tail and brake with a quality LED bulb, and perhaps your signals also, although this isn't as large an issue as signals are by nature intermittent. This gains you some energy.

Replacing the charging system isn't as simple or cheap as it may first appear. I'd do the first steps and see if things work out for you. If they don't, you can still upgrade the charging system, and you can still use all the gear you purchased on the first go-through.

I've got a few bikes with minimal electrical reserve, and this has worked for me. Managing available resources is much easier when you know what's going on.
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Old 07-28-2013, 02:53 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by batoutoflahonda View Post
After installing the acewell speedo I did some tests with the volt meter. So if it's accurate, this is what I got with Girbings heated pants and jacket with I believe to be hot grips (came on bike) and an enduralast 450 watts @ 14V (32A) at 5,000 RPM. The out put is usually about 14.5 V at that RPM with a new healthy (Odyssey) battery.

Grips: aprox - 1 volt on high, think it's closer to 1/2 volt tho.

pants: aprox - 1 volt on high

jacket: aprox -1 volt on high
I suspect the voltage drop is in the wiring not the battery/alternator. Test at the battery to see. If it is in the wiring, find out where .. could be several places. Possibly your accessories are connected through the standard wiring that is only just coping with the standard load?

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Old 07-28-2013, 04:39 PM   #15
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Right. But keep in mind that what you are suggesting, is how this heated stuff works. By heating wires. Lots of little wires. The jacket liner is said to draw 77 watts on it's own. And will feel like it's burning you if have the power. So say the pants draw another 77W, hot grips draw about 38W x2, plus a 55W bulb, 20W tail light and say 20W for the ignition (points). All totaled it's 325W estimated.

Here is an article that goes a little more in depth on testing. Scroll to the bottom to performance:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/heated-jacket/
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batoutoflahonda screwed with this post 07-28-2013 at 05:03 PM
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