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Old 07-25-2013, 07:00 AM   #1
TonUp OP
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Intro and clutch question

Long time lurker, first time poster.....
First off 'hello' inmates! I've been a creepin' around this forum for a bit, ever since I picked up my first Airhead last fall. I came across a 1975 R75/6 with under 30k that had been sitting in a garage for a decade. I'm told everyone comes across that one deal that's just too good to pass and this was mine. Under 30K, Krausers, garage kept, 2nd owner, some extra parts, and a free boat anchor(Vetter V) all for under $1500 bucks! I'm new to Airheads but not bikes, I'm 44 and have been riding since I was 20, and once I saw that opposed twin engine buried under that Vetter V I must admit I was aroused and after I stripped that boat anchor off her it turned to full blown LUST! Long story short (possible build thread to follow) I got her revived and running and my lust has now turned to obsession! I am in love with this bike! I've ridden my fair share of bikes and I've never felt so at home so quickly on a bike. Don't think this bike will ever leave my possession!

That's the introduction now to the question (the first of many I'm sure as get deeper into repair/restoration/modification).......
The bike is running, riding, charging, and stopping OK but I've noticed that when I engage the clutch in 1st from a stop there are times (most times) where I get a squeaking sound coming from the transmission area until the clutch is fully engaged. It doesn't sound like it makes this noise in any other gear but the sound of the engine accelerating might be masking it. I do hear it occasionally when downshifting tho. Like I mentioned above, I'm new to Airheads and am not sure if this is common or if I might be doing damage to the clutch or what I should be looking for when trying to track down this sound. Any advice/thoughts would be MUCH appreciated! Thanks all and ride well!
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:22 AM   #2
airsmith
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inspect the throw-out bearing that can be accessed from the rear of the gearbox.. then start reading up on spline lubing...
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:49 AM   #3
disston
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It does sound like a spline lube is in order.

But no harm in first checking the throw out pieces. You can get most of it out by taking the arm off the rear of the trans. Careful with the tiny E-clip that holds the pin in place if this bike still has it. It will not be in a part of the pin you expect maybe. It's mostly on the inboard edge of one of the cover stanchions. Cleaning every thing so you can see is helpful. Then the rubber cup, cover, big thrust piece, bearing and finally small thrust washer all will come out the rear of the trans with the trans in the bike. A magnet is helpful sometimes to get stuff out but I think I have gotten them all out with out one.

Leave the rod in the trans. It is possible to remove if more room is made at the rear but it's not easy to get back in. Just leave it.

Clean and grease the bearing and all the pieces. Look for signs of the bearing is going out, damage to the rollers and scruffing on the faces of the thrust pieces. At 30K they should all be in good shape. The grease you are applying to the parts to put back together is only for start up lubrication. Use ordinary wheel bearing grease. After everything is in place and the trans is warmed up the parts are lubed by a drip of trans oil from the gear oil in the trans.

The lever and the pin in the cover stanchions gets liberally greased. These items should be cleaned and greased at least once a year, maybe. They are not lubed by the gear oil.

There is a correct adjustment measure and procedure for the throw out arm and the whole clutch arrangement. Let's just say at this point that there should be free play in the cable at both ends. That is free play down at the rear of the trans and free play at the handlebar lever.

Your adding the comment about maybe the noise on down shifts also cinches the deal. To lube the transmission input splines the transmission is either removed or at least pulled back to access the shaft where in enters the clutch. The reason you hear a noise is because the area is dry and the clutch needs to move a tiny bit.

Lubing the splines is not a terribly big job. First timers may take most of a day or just half a day. I suggest pulling the trans out for first timers. But I also believe in doing it this way myself too. It's easier to clean before applying the spline lube.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:18 AM   #4
airsmith
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on a side note the engine breather valve is located just ahead of the gearbox under the starter cover,, the old style were commonly known as "turkey-gobblers" its a good thing to replace these with the read-valve newer type...
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:39 AM   #5
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Thanks for the info! I'll check out all suggestions ASAP.
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:04 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonUp View Post
Long time lurker, first time poster.....
blah...................blah...................blah ..................s just too good to pass and this was mine. yada...............................yada........... ...........yada............................ I must admit I was aroused and after I stripped that boat anchor off her it turned to full blown LUST! Long story short (possible build thread to follow) I got her revived and running and my lust has now turned to obsession! I am in love with this bike! I've ridden my fair share of bikes and I've never felt so at home so quickly on a bike. Don't think this bike will ever leave my possession!

That's the introduction now to the question....................snip.................s nip..................snip....................!

I just did a keyword search for y'all...... Ye know, the First Step is to admit it.... Good on ya, and congratulations, and Welcome!!!



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Old 07-27-2013, 07:16 PM   #7
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How original is the clutch plate? I had similar symptoms with my bike (squeaking also lurching into 1st), thought it might be dry splines, but instead it really needed a new clutch plate. If I were you I'd spend the extra bucks and rebuild the clutch AND lube the splines and be done with it. You have to unfasten the trans to do either, so you might as well. My bike's clutch is like buttah now.

There's a shop in San Diego that does a great job reconditioning clutch packs. Quick turn around too.
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:26 PM   #8
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My first thoughts were throw out bearing too. Just pulling the clutch in neutral (engine running) should produce the squeal, if indeed the bearing is the problem.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:46 AM   #9
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I just did a keyword search for y'all...... Ye know, the First Step is to admit it.... Good on ya, and congratulations, and Welcome!!!



Thanks for the chuckle and the welcome!
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:49 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by east high View Post
How original is the clutch plate? I had similar symptoms with my bike (squeaking also lurching into 1st), thought it might be dry splines, but instead it really needed a new clutch plate. If I were you I'd spend the extra bucks and rebuild the clutch AND lube the splines and be done with it. You have to unfasten the trans to do either, so you might as well. My bike's clutch is like buttah now.

There's a shop in San Diego that does a great job reconditioning clutch packs. Quick turn around too.
As far as I know, it's original. With on 30k on I guess I would be surprised if it had been replaced. But to your point, I will check out the plate as well since, as you say, I'm gonna be taking it apart anyway to lube the splines. Thanks for the advice!
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:51 AM   #11
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My first thoughts were throw out bearing too. Just pulling the clutch in neutral (engine running) should produce the squeal, if indeed the bearing is the problem.
I will listen for this but I don't remember it squealing until the clutch is engaging it I will check again. Thanks for the input!
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Old 07-29-2013, 01:00 PM   #12
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That little E clip that Dissiton mentions is essential, make sure that it is in good condition and replace if not. If it falls out, the castings on the gearbox cover that hold the clutch arm will break and its an expensive fix.
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:14 PM   #13
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I will listen for this but I don't remember it squealing until the clutch is engaging it I will check again. Thanks for the input!
Just pulling in the clutch isn't quite the same thing. I would look into the throwout bearing first. If that fixes it the rest of the advise is a waste of time. If that doesn't fix it? The splines need lubed at least.
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