ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-11-2013, 11:55 AM   #61
newride
Studly Adventurer
 
newride's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: San Fran
Oddometer: 703
Quote:
Originally Posted by M1Jeep View Post
Hi. Bolts aren't used if you opt to use the circlip. Slip on the sprocket and secure it with the circlip.

The OEM retaining plate isn't used either if you use the circlip.
Thank you. Sorry for the obvious question. Doing a lot of firsts today on the DR.
__________________
1975 BMW R90/6

My moto blog: http://jbloggie1.blogspot.com/
newride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 12:29 PM   #62
M1Jeep
Beastly Adventurer
 
M1Jeep's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Lakewood, CA
Oddometer: 1,861
Quote:
Originally Posted by newride View Post
Thank you. Sorry for the obvious question. Doing a lot of firsts today on the DR.
It's all good. Happy trails!
__________________
Rich
DR650SE
My Smugmug
My YouTube
Save $5 when you sign-up with SmugMug: COUPON
M1Jeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2013, 09:59 PM   #63
eakins
Butler Maps
 
eakins's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 17,406
How to align front and rear sprockets:

the whole notch on the axel adjuster and swingarm is not a 100% exact & 100% precise system. everything is not built to those exact tolerances.


this tool should be in every home mechanics box.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4876/i/motion-pro-chain-alignment-tool?SiteID=Google_PLA995&WT.mc_ID=10012&esvt=0-GOUSC&esvadt=9-0-3886819-1&esvaid=30548&kw={keyword}&gclid=CK2Q3p-Pp7oCFQVBQgod_RcABQ

remove your chain guard.
you attach it on the rear sprocket and point the arm down the chain to the front. after you've established the proper chain slack (by adjusting both left and right side to the same adjustment notch). you then mark the left/drive side notch with a black marker. this is your fixed side as this this adjustment is critical for proper chain slack.

then with your tool in place and looking down it and the chain towards the front sprocket, you adjust the right/disc side notch so the arm of the tool and the chain are as parallel as possible. sometimes this is the same notch as the left sometimes is 1 or even 2 + or - of the left side. doesn't matter as long as the tool arm and chain are parallel.

when you've found the proper right side notch hand snug the axle bolt (you did upgrade to the updated Fuji nut style from PC right? vrs the old crap style castle nut). then torque to 72ftlbs and mark the right notch with a permanent marker too.

now your sprockets are aligned to each other and your chain lasts longer. by marking both notches you can quickly get back to this adjustment if you need to change a tire. over time your chain will stretch and so move each notch up 1 respectively to tighten your chain.
__________________
Butler Maps - motorcycle maps for riders by riders -
Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Cycle World Adventure Rally:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350
eakins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2014, 01:08 PM   #64
eakins
Butler Maps
 
eakins's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 17,406
a recap to ensure proper chain life.

DRs might not be 100% accurately build to assume the same and left adjustment notch is aligned. check it and then mark your adjuster mark with a permanant marker.

ideally you 1st check left/drive side adjuster (with bike on side stand) and adjust that one for proper chain slack. then lift bike in the air and adjust right side adjuster for proper chain alignment. mine is always off 1 notch.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...alignment-tool

__________________
Butler Maps - motorcycle maps for riders by riders -
Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Cycle World Adventure Rally:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350
eakins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 09:25 PM   #65
fink
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2014
Location: Pt noarlunga south /south australia
Oddometer: 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by er70s-2 View Post
make sure the teeth on the horizontal splined shaft are pointing to the front when you put the cover on (first photo). It spins freely in the clutch but i'm not sure if the cover will even go back on if the splines are pointing the wrong way. since the vertical splined shaft (in the cover) is machined 360* on both ends, it doesn't matter where it is when installed. That adjustment is made with the arm after the cover is on.

here are a few reference pics, i think they'll be close for most dr650s.

Photo thanks to lukasm:


look at the clutch cover bolt in the background as a point of reference (arrow), easier to see in the next pics. In this photo i'm gently pressing the arm to the left, ccw (just to remove freeplay) and it's too far rearward.


i've rotated the arm two splines forward and it's too far. I'm still gently pressing the arm ccw.


photo below:
Rotating the arm back one spline and this time it's where it belongs, almost lining up with the cable end; but that's because it's on my bike and the cable is already set correctly. If your cable is unadjusted, go by the arm and cover bolt, then adjust the cable.

Pic 4 is what you want: if your clutch worked before, adjust the arm to this position.


pic 4 and pic 5 are both on the same spline. In pic 5, i'm rotating the arm forward to show the freeplay of the vertical shaft.
if you have the arm on the correct spline, it swings freely between pic 4 and 5.

pic 5:


thanks heaps guys ,cheers
fink is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 11:17 PM   #66
fink
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2014
Location: Pt noarlunga south /south australia
Oddometer: 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
effort to boost my post count

stock piston with dished top:


JE 10.5:1 "high compression" flat top piston:


kit:


kit available from Procycle, Keintech, and other sources. Not all "kits" are put together the same (which and type of gaskets that are included).

I was asked to get a weight on the engine. Came up with 107.5lbs on my digital bathroom scale (with oil). I don't usually choose to believe that scale as it's always telling me I am carrying extra lbs.
Can you give comments on how the install went ,any problems, and results plus your opinion after riding it and does it start easy, fuel usage, and reliability
fink is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2014, 07:50 PM   #67
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,909
I found this in the megathread, thanks to Badguy:

Quote:
Originally Posted by badguy View Post
I saw a chunk of steel stuck to my magnetized oil drain screw the last time I changed my oil. Based on all the complaining on the internet about 3rd gear disintegrating I guessed that that's where the chunk came from. The bike was stolen and thrashed shortly after that, so when I bought it back from the impound lot I pulled it apart to find out if I was right. After I got the cylinder off I could see down into the transmission and confirmed my suspicions.
__________________
2004 DR650: 60,466 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-31-2014 at 01:40 PM
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2014, 04:54 PM   #68
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,909
Counter Shaft Sprocket: Shoulder In or Out?

Suzuki intended the shoulder to face inward.

Right:




Wrong:


__________________
2004 DR650: 60,466 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2014, 07:43 PM   #69
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,909
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
You only have to remove the special crank nut if you are replacing the left crank bearing.
.
__________________
2004 DR650: 60,466 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2014, 09:39 AM   #70
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,909
On page 3-31 in the service manual, this drawing is reversed.

Wrong:


Correct, other than now the text is reversed.
__________________
2004 DR650: 60,466 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 07-27-2014 at 10:16 AM
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2014, 09:18 AM   #71
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,909
Counter Shaft Seal

If your counter shaft seal leaks, it can be replaced. Just remove the front sprocket for access. Be careful not to damage the seal behind it. Clean the alum thoroughly with something that doesn't leave a film. Seat the new seal flush with the case, don't countersink it.

I collected these posts from the big DR thread since this comes up occasionally.

Photo thx to PDX Alamo:


Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
I've never understood why they spec'd a shielded bearing there. There's oil pressure everywhere behind the oil seal (otherwise it wouldn't blow out) so that bearing is "wet" on both sides. If it were mine I wouldn't tear it down to replace that.

However, if it worries you it might be possible to replace the damaged shield/seal with the bearing in place. Usually those shields just snap in. You might be able to carefully remove the shield from a new bearing and reinstall it in your old one. FWIW there was a discussion here a few days ago about removing and subsequently reinstalling the shields on wheel bearings to add more grease.

But if it were me, I'd just ride on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I think someone (Procycle?) mentioned that the lubrication system depended on having the seals there, to ensure pressure was maintained properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Oil at about 10 psi is pumped into the space between the outer seal and the bearing seal. Being trapped between the seals forces the oil to flow into a hole in the side of the shaft. The shaft is hollow and the oil runs through the shaft and is distributed to the transmission gear bushings and to the clutch.

If the bearing seal was not there oil would just pour through the bearing and the inner races of the transmission gears would only get whatever oil managed to splash between the gears and the shafts. The clutch would not get any oil to cool an lubricate the plates.

I don't think a 'nick' in the bearing seal is anything to cause concern. A hole, like anything bigger than a pencil point, could shorten the life of the transmission and clutch.
Thanks Jeff

Here's the hole and the inner seal that you don't want to damage ... photo thanks to Emmbeedee

__________________
2004 DR650: 60,466 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 06:04 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014