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Old 09-08-2007, 09:19 PM   #16
DakarNick
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Wayne, what bender is that? What size OD tube can it bend?

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Old 09-09-2007, 06:21 PM   #17
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Here's a site where you can buy the plans and build your own:

http://www.gottrikes.com/Tube_Bender.htm
I want a bender for my garage... One day.
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Old 09-10-2007, 12:01 AM   #18
Wayne Weber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DakarNick
Wayne, what bender is that? What size OD tube can it bend?

Nick
It's from Pro Tools, it's around $500 plus about $150 per die set, and it can bend about anything. They have dies for tube, pipe, square tube. It's one of my favorite tools. I have dies for 5/8" thru 1 1/4" and it's awesome. no effort and verrrry controlable. I can't say enough.

Here's a link, (EDIT make sure you get the $59 magnetic angle measurer! and then get a magnifying glass to see it, but it's also worth it!)

http://www.pro-tools.com/200.htm

It's really cool.
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Old 09-10-2007, 01:27 AM   #19
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Maybe solution for heat problems may be this:
Cut muffler open from rear end (red line) and remove last pipe so gases can flow through directly (green line) and not been directed back through middle section (blue line).

Can't see from photos is that last pipe welded together with other pipes in the middle section or will it slip out to rear when cut open as shown.
I saw similar mod done with BMW 1150GS mufler with good results.
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:26 AM   #20
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agreed or disagreed?!

If you were to cut the muffler open on both ends; having removed the cat on the one end.... Regarding the other end, where the exhaust comes out.. does anyone think inserting a pipe (or anything of substantial width and length) and use it to beat/pummel out the remainder of the internals would work? You would be left with a gutted/hollow can. Although, there wouldn't be anything to create back pressure..... doesn't the 950/990 need some back pressure?????

Then again, if you welded a perforated pipe (hardware/farm supply store) to one of the end caps (cutting it to the same length of the stock exhaust can) and filling the void with glass packing... you would have a legitimate straight-through exhaust pipe.
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Old 09-26-2007, 07:04 AM   #21
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yo Ganshert... how did the rack turn out for your SE?
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Old 09-26-2007, 07:14 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Dire Wolf
yo Ganshert... how did the rack turn out for your SE?
It was for Ned's SE and IIRC he finished it up last week, Ned?
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Old 09-28-2008, 12:57 PM   #23
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fwiw I was going to start a new thread on my plans but figured this one already had some great info started so I'll continue.
If OP has a problem with this let me know.


Quote:
Originally Posted by randel
Maybe solution for heat problems may be this:
Cut muffler open from rear end (red line) and remove last pipe so gases can flow through directly (green line) and not been directed back through middle section (blue line).

Can't see from photos is that last pipe welded together with other pipes in the middle section or will it slip out to rear when cut open as shown.
I saw similar mod done with BMW 1150GS mufler with good results.

I cut mine apart a bit differently.



Flow is right to left. Cat has been cut off from the inlet cone assy.

randel, the outlet tube assembly is not welded into the baffle plate.

Heat.
The few reasons I see this silencer holds heat is:
1. Thermal conductiuvity. Stainless does not conduct temp very quickly so it will heat up and hold it's temp for some time after. Aluminum acts the opposite. The inlet end has a double wall of stainless (shown below/different view from OP's) which does not help heat but does reduce shell noise.
2. The amount of time the exhaust gas stays in the silnecer is the other reason. In other words, the exhaust has the go through three "rooms" in order exit to atmosphere.





My reason for this is to replace my LeoV slipped on exh with something quieter while utilizing my own 2>1 system and reduce the heat soaking nature and weight of the OEM can.

My Plans are to re-skin main body tube with aluminum for wieght savings and a little more heat conductivity. Internally I will start with cutting the outlet tube shorter as randel descibes to let a bit more exhaust out quicker. I will be welding nuts on the inside of either cap end to allow me to take apart easily to try different designs/configurations.
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Old 09-28-2008, 02:21 PM   #24
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#19
randel
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/image...ine=1215703005

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Location: Tallinn, Estonia
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Maybe solution for heat problems may be this:
Cut muffler open from rear end (red line) and remove last pipe so gases can flow through directly (green line) and not been directed back through middle section (blue line).

Can't see from photos is that last pipe welded together with other pipes in the middle section or will it slip out to rear when cut open as shown.
I saw similar mod done with BMW 1150GS mufler with good results.


Attached Imageshttp://www.advrider.com/forums/attac...1&d=1189408768





How about this, try drilling around the out side flange at the exit six times with a 1/2" drill all the way in to the chamber.
You have to go all the way past the second pice of metel. I did this after I de cated mine and once the end packing blows it sounds nice to. And you don't have to take it all apart. This will help with the heat and some of the jeting trouble.
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Old 09-28-2008, 03:23 PM   #25
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Sorry to say, but it doesn't help at all. I made a direct passage with 3 x 12mm holes (same as 1/2"). Oh yeah, it now blows!!!! When revving, you can see the gas just spewing out. Oh the sound: terrible for my liking. I've never got so much attention earlier when riding around in the neighbourhood. And the heat: nothing useable gain in temp reduction. With a temp gun you'll probably read some slightly lower numbers, but no useable. I gave it all up and mounted a Wings. Now the temp isn't in the 600 deg C area, but rather around 70-90. THAT's a reduction, and I can now ride safely in the woods w/o starting a fire or having one of my legs chewed off if I fall and get caught under the bike.
I have now FOUR different cans with differnet mods in my garage. The only thing i could alter was the sound. IMO, just go and get an aftermarket can if worried about the heat.

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Old 09-29-2008, 08:18 AM   #26
Terlingua
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ever one has one.

The sound was fine for me, but then agian I ride Harleys too. I guess some are just more sensitive to heat. Living in Texas and riding year round I guess I'm just more use to the heat. And no 12mm is one mm smaller than a 1/2". Not that it makes eney defiance just thought you like to know. You can have your wings right now I'm fabing up a yoshimura R1 can to a two in to one. That I am going try back to back to the new Black dog two in to one. I'll let ya'll know how it works.
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Old 09-29-2008, 03:56 PM   #27
WIsixfitty
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Here's a list of importance for me.

1. Sound. Quieter than LeoV's

2. 2>1 for storage on opposite side.

3. Decrease weight of OEM silencer.

4. Hold on to power and/or use current carb calibration.

5. Radiant heat.

1, 2 and 3 are pretty easy. 4 has many more unknowns. Testing will dictate... 5, I can easily make a heat sheild if needed.


My thoughts as of today are to use the internal transfer tubes as they are. Open up (larger diameter) and shorten outlet tube. Use aluminum and possibly increase the outside diameter of the silencer body while adding about 0.5" of insulation.
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Old 10-28-2008, 02:38 PM   #28
scalci
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Has anyone else do this?

Is the best to cut the pipe at the flanch or at the back?
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:27 PM   #29
far
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by scalci View Post
Has anyone else do this?

Is the best to cut the pipe at the flanch or at the back?
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:07 PM   #30
Zuber
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Use a large abrasive cut-off saw, like a chop-saw.

And really good ear plugs, ... with ear muffs.

Cut at the flange to remove the CAT.
Cut at the back to change the tuning.
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