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Old 08-07-2013, 02:36 PM   #16
m_p_w
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I did NYC to Yaviza and back between November '12 and May '13. I'll add my $0.02 on top of a lot of good information already posted. Note that my experience stops at Panama and my not be completely applicable further south.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Bring your passport, drivers license, registration, and title and hit the road. You'll pick up the rest as you go. Insurance can be picked up at border crossings relatively cheaply. Don't believe anyone that tells you their insurance is valid in North AND South America.
Airhead Wrangler is correct, but I'll add a couple of suggestions. On the title, leave the real one at home. My personal opinion is that it's just too much of a risk to be carrying it on the bike.

What I did, and it worked perfectly, was to carry a high-quality, double-sided color copy of my title for each border I intended to cross. I then carried a the same number of black and white copies, but I kept all but one of the color copies separate. At each crossing, I'd offer up the black and white copy and if they demanded the real title, I'd reluctantly produce the color copy as the "real" title, stressing that it was a very important document. At every border but Belize and, I believe, Panama heading south, the B&W copy was sufficient. Where I was pressed for the real title, the color copy was never questioned.

I'd also add this was a New York State title, not sure if there are nuances to other states' titles which would make this difficult (holograms, embossed stamps, high-security paper that says "VOID" when you copy it, etc.).

Of further note, a few borders (sorrry, I can't remember which) didn't even want to see the title, since NYS titles don't show the licence plate number. For those, the registration card was sufficient.

I'd also suggest carrying a few B&W copies of your passport, licence (both sides) and registration. Not all borders (again, sorry, I can't remember which) wanted to copies of any other documents and having them ahead of time can relieve some aggravation trying to find the copy spot. At the very least, it will save you some coin.

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Originally Posted by csustewy View Post
And just take it easy at every border crossing. Relax, smile, be friendly, and expect each crossing to take up most of your day. If it's a fast one, then wow! so much extra time, and if it takes a few hours longer than what you might think should be necessary, well, that still fits with your schedule.
+1

On border crossings, I found it generally useful to use a helper. The official ones will have a name tag of sorts, although the validity of said document is relative. Crossing from Nicaragua to Honduras, I even had one do an awesome job of washing my bike while his buddy was inside dealing with paperwork. That the wash (of a very filthy GSA) cost me all of $2 and the dude looked like John C. Reilly only added to the awesomeness.

Agree a price ahead of time, only crossing from El Salvador to Honduras and again from Honduras to El Salvador (both times on the SV side) was I extorted for cash on top of the agreed price and even then for like $5-$10 more.

I eventually found it easiest to also agree on the amount of time it will take to cross. At the Nica/CR border, there was an incredibly long line at immigration. One of the helpers asked for $20, I told him I'd give him $25 if he could get me through in 30 minutes. He literally ran to immigration, spoke with the guard at the door and got me to the front of the line (the hippies were angry that day, my friends). When all was said and done, it took 32 minutes by my watch, which was good enough.

As csustewy said, do it with a smile, make it fun for you and the helper and it should generally go smoothly. They're pretty good guys who work for sh!t money, so don't sweat $10 or $20 to make things much more pleasant. It will be hot and standing around in the sun and humidity in riding gear can suck.

I know some folks abhor the idea of paying for what should be a free/low-cost crossing. I heard a story of a German dude on a moto who waited all day at the Honduras border because he refused to pay on principal, only to pay in the late afternoon as it was starting to get dark. Perhaps that's a bit of ADV rider myth, but given my experience, it seems entirely plausible.

The helpers were truly helpful when I had a family member pass away while I was in Esteli, Nica and needed to get back to Mexico City ASAP. I did the Nica-Honduras-Salvador-Guatemala crossing in one day and it wasn't fun, probably one of the most unfun and profoundly frustrating days I've had on a bike, but I managed three Central American crossings in one day that I think would have been impossible without greasing the skids a bit.

I think in total, crossing each border twice (except for Belize as I went from Guate to MX on the way back) I paid $250 over six months in helper "fees". To me that was certainly worth greatly reduced aggravation and relatively (and sometimes genuinely) speedy crossings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by americanthumper View Post
Does anyone have any experience with this ferry crossing and what the process is for all the paperwork to bring the bike into mainland mexico?
I took the ferry from La Paz to Topolobampo, but I believe the departure port is the same. You can show up the day of departure. I actually went to the terminal ticket office a few days in advance and was told to just show up the day of. As OK Lucinda mentioned, there really aren't spots for motos, so you sort of just park it where they tell you; I can't imagine them running out of space.

I, and three other riders just tied our bikes together with a greasy rope they had on board, through the I-beams on the ceiling, and then lashed them to a railing, with the bikes parked facing the starboard side (we were worried about side-to-side rocking knocking the bikes over). It was all good, but if I were to do it again, I'd bring a couple of tie-downs. The other guys all had bikes they could afford to bang up (KLR, DR650, Super Sherpa), I was the only one with a then five-month old, 3,000 mile GSA.

Aside from that, enjoy the comfy chairs, the beers and the lounge singer on the ferry; truly a spectacle to behold.

The only paperwork I was asked for in La Paz was the Mexico temporary import documentation, which I had taken care of back in Tecate. As Two Moto Kiwis mention, you'll also need to pay a few small port fees.

Side note, make sure you take care of the paperwork at the U.S. border crossing. No one stopped me nor did I ask and I ended up in Ensenada without any documentation. I didn't realize at the time that all of Baja is a frontier zone and you can travel from the U.S. and drive around there quite happily for a while without paperwork. Technically you're allowed a 72-hour stay south of the border, but I met a bunch of folks who I suspected had been there for a while longer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis View Post
Great advice above, Insurance is mandatory in Mexico, cancel ANY insurance you have north of the Mexican border as the paper is useful for the toilet.

Mexico - Mandatory - $124 US min.
Belize - Mandatory - $15 US From memory
Guate - Optional - Nil
El Salvador - Optional - Nil
Honduras - Optional Nil
Nicaragua - Mandatory $12 US.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crashmaster View Post
Panama: Mandatory $12-$15
The insurance info above is correct to my recollection, but keep in mind this is only liability coverage.

I planned on being (and ultimately was) in Mexico for a few months so I purchased full coverage from www.bajabound.com. I think it was a $1000 deductible on damage, $500 on theft and liability coverage mirrored my U.S. liability coverage. For 6 months (the shortest term it made sense for me to get) and $30,000 of coverage, I think I paid less than $600. They require you to have U.S. insurance in parallel which for me wasn't an issue as I had cars and other bikes that were still in the states, so canceling my insurance wasn't an option.

One final note, while liability coverage is indeed mandatory in MX, I was never asked to show proof that I had it. I brought it to the aduana (customs) window when I first crossed, but the person at the window couldn't have cared less.

I think that's about all the info I can impart. But I'll reiterate what lots of others have said, relax, smile and remain calm at even the most frustrating crossings, the frustration will be fleeting but the experience will stay with you; enjoy it!
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Old 08-07-2013, 02:47 PM   #17
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You overpaid your helpers vastly. The going rate, even for gringos on brand new Bavarian bikes, is US$5 or less per border--a couple of bucks is normally sufficient. For $20 or $25 they should carry you across on a gilded litter, change your oil, set valve clearances and have you home for a five course meal.

Plus: I've had a couple of occasions where I wasn't going anywhere without a genuine title--and yes, I carry a convincing color copy as well. Photocopies don't include any of the security features which all titles incorporate, and aduana personnel aren't stupid--merely lazy.

Besides, what's the risk? You carry a passport, right? Carry your title wherever you carry the passport.

Mark
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Old 08-07-2013, 03:35 PM   #18
m_p_w
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markharf View Post
You overpaid your helpers vastly. The going rate, even for gringos on brand new Bavarian bikes, is US$5 or less per border--a couple of bucks is normally sufficient. For $20 or $25 they should carry you across on a gilded litter, change your oil, set valve clearances and have you home for a five course meal.

Plus: I've had a couple of occasions where I wasn't going anywhere without a genuine title--and yes, I carry a convincing color copy as well. Photocopies don't include any of the security features which all titles incorporate, and aduana personnel aren't stupid--merely lazy.

Besides, what's the risk? You carry a passport, right? Carry your title wherever you carry the passport.

Mark
Mark,

I should have checked my math and been more specific. $20-25 was about the most I paid, save for getting completely ripped off at the SV-HN border heading south (~$60 when all was said and done).

If I remember correctly, my helper fees were something like this:

Southbound
US-MX: nada
MX-BZ: MXN300 (this was to the immigration guy, I admit got ripped off here) / $2-3 on the BZ side
BZ-GT: nada
GT-SV: nada, so much so that the immigration official on the SV side said, in English, if anyone asked me for money to let him know because it shouldn't happen
SV-HN: $60 in total, this was the worst and I had such a pleasant experience crossing up to this point that I wasn't prepared for the scam, this was exacerbated by stupidly not having enough USDs and having to exchange MXN at a usurious rate
HN-NI: $5-10 on the HN side which is chaotic and disorganized, another $5-10 on the NI side
NI-CR: $25, as mentioned above to get in front of an hours-long wait in the immigration line
CR-PA: nada to leave CR, $5-10 to enter PA

Northbound
PA-CR: nada
CR-NI: nada
NI-HN: $10 out of NI, $10 into HN, including the bike wash (on both sides the guys did literally all of the paperwork, I simply sat outside with my bike and enjoyed a cold drink)
HN-SV: $30, ripped off here again, but was in such a hurry to get back to Mexico City I just paid instead of arguing
SV-GT: nada
GT-MX: nada
MX-US: nada

So, I guess in total it was actually closer to $200 over six months and 15 border crossings. That works out to a bit under $35/month or $15 per crossing. Had I paid $5 per crossing on each side, I'd be looking at something like $130 in total (excl. the U.S. crossings). I'm willing to eat the difference. I'm certainly not saying this is a choice everyone should make. We all have different budgets and goals. This is just what worked for me and I only feel I was ripped off at the SV-HN border on the Pan-American, but that place is a sh!tshow and they have a monopoly on the crossing unlike almost ever other border in CA; I'm still unhappy about it.

I sort of look at perhaps overpaying (certainly between SV-HN) in the same way I look at bringing my GSA vs. my WR250R or even my Super Sherpa. All of the bikes would have gotten the job done and provided me with an awesome experience, but I was willing to bear the extra cost of the GSA, sometimes financial in gas and oil, sometimes physical by picking the thing up alone, for the convenience and speed.

On the title, a good color copy of an NYS title looks pretty close to original, and is only really discernible as different if compared directly to said original. I did caveat this to say that some titles may have security features that might make this a challenge.

It's almost a moot point as I was only ever asked for an original at, I recall, two borders, everywhere else the B&W copy sufficed when it was even requested. A few borders only needed the registration with the plate number. This may not be everyone's experience, perhaps I was lucky?

As to the title, of course I carry my passport, but it's a durable, bound document that I've taken, figuratively, to hell and back, not a single piece of paper that's going to get mangled in my jacket. The passport is also replaceable at an embassy in-country, rather than requiring me to interact with the DMV from 3,000 miles away. The color copies with me and the original at home (only a couple of days away via FedEx if I really needed it) was a setup which worked well for me.

I wasn't suggesting that the aduana people are stupid, but the chances of one knowing exactly what a NYS title feels like without having an actual original for comparison was such a low-probability event that I'd rather take that risk than have my title with me to lose.

Thanks for keeping me honest on the math!

All the best,

Matt
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:16 PM   #19
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Yup, you do what makes sense for you--then adjust for what works. But you can draw on the experience of others, and they on yours, just so none of us have to reinvent the wheel each time.

I've never had to provide a title--real, fake, photocopied or in any other form--at any border in Central America. But FWIW I met an aduana official at the El Salvador/Honduras border who had a looseleaf book with samples of titles from all 50 states, including detailed illustrations and descriptions of all security features--microprinting, iridescent ribbons, watermarks, holograms, you name it. You can't duplicate any of that on a color photocopy, and if you know what to look for the copies are blindingly obvious.

That's why I say aduana personnel are lazy: mostly they don't want to go to a lot of trouble, but if they decide to get tough and you can't provide a genuine document, you're sunk (at least to the extent of negotiating, then paying, mordidas in the hot sun when you'd rather be riding briskly down the road). And I figure each time I pay over the odds I'm setting up the next rider for more hassle, more negotiations, more frustration. It's not just a question of what I'm willing to pay.

My bike titles are painted with map seal so they never rip, stain, decompose or even wrinkle. Amazing stuff. I carry them, as I said, with my passport. I haven't lost either one yet, and I don't intend to start now. Why would I keep a title in my jacket? Why would you? That's where I keep the fakes and the color photocopies.

Mark
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markharf View Post
YBut FWIW I met an aduana official at the El Salvador/Honduras border who had a looseleaf book with samples of titles from all 50 states, including detailed illustrations and descriptions of all security features--microprinting, iridescent ribbons, watermarks, holograms, you name it.
I bet he didn't have one from the Cherokee Nation I get many strange looks crossing borders with those papers
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:15 PM   #21
CaptUglyDan
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Damn Greasy ropes


Hi Ya Matt, I rode the ferry over with you, Matt#2 and Jim, Had the sherpa with me, Hows the GSA holding up?
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:13 AM   #22
m_p_w
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Originally Posted by CaptUglyDan View Post

Hi Ya Matt, I rode the ferry over with you, Matt#2 and Jim, Had the sherpa with me, Hows the GSA holding up?
Hey Dan, that's too funny! Thanks for posting that pic.

The GSA is great, had 20,000 miles on it when I got back to NYC and never missed a beat (save for a battery that went tits-up outside of Oaxaca). It's sadly in storage in NY as I've moved to Mexico City with the wife (who's missing her Sherpa). In the process of sourcing a bike down here now.

How's the Sherpa holding up?
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:41 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by markharf View Post
But FWIW I met an aduana official at the El Salvador/Honduras border who had a looseleaf book with samples of titles from all 50 states, including detailed illustrations and descriptions of all security features--microprinting, iridescent ribbons, watermarks, holograms, you name it. You can't duplicate any of that on a color photocopy, and if you know what to look for the copies are blindingly obvious.
Yep, I saw the same book, same border, El Amatillo IIRC. They wanted to see my title. Unfortunately, the official was neither stupid, nor lazy. I showed the aduana gal my near perfect color copy, she held it up to the light to look for the watermark, hands it back to me and says "no good, its a copy." So I had to go dig out the original.

El Amatillo was the only CA border that wanted to see my title. Quite a few borders in SA wanted to see my title.

One thing you have to get used to is that rules and requirements change often depending on the official, the particular day, the weather, tide levels, and the moon cycle.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:25 PM   #24
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Y'know, I'm starting to doubt my own memories. I guess that's a sign I'm spending too much time on web forums, not enough time actually doing anything in particular.

But I did have something similar happen while entering Ukraine: the border guard (female, disconcertingly dressed in miniskirt and high-heeled boots) glanced at my elaborately faked document, which had served me well throughout Western and Eastern Europe plus a good portion of Asia Minor and North Africa, and dismissed it contemptuously. I apologized and dug out the real one. She did not smile, but neither did she ask me for proof of insurance, so I guessed I was ahead of the game.

Mark
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:56 AM   #25
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Make sure your Mexican policy carries sufficient coverage for the changes in amounts awarded in accidents. The system was overhauled earlier this year and all vehicles in Mexico will be obligated to carry insurance.
Most policies will be ok, buy from a reputable agency and make sure you have "asistencia legal" unless you happen to be a fully accredited Mexican corporate and criminal lawyer.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:08 AM   #26
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Make sure your Mexican policy carries sufficient coverage for the changes in amounts awarded in accidents. The system was overhauled earlier this year and all vehicles in Mexico will be obligated to carry insurance.
Most policies will be ok, buy from a reputable agency and make sure you have "asistencia legal" unless you happen to be a fully accredited Mexican corporate and criminal lawyer.

I've actually has to use the legal assistance once. I bought the Mexican super hero policy (Ace Seguros)

I was in my pick up stopped at a light in Ensenada when a city bus came up on my right and took off my mirror. The bus kept going. Bus driver then called 066 and told the cops that I had hit him. It was pretty obvious from the mirror damage that I was stopped and he hit me. At the police station what could have taken hours to sort out (and likely turned out badly for me) was resolved with a couple of phone calls to the Ace Seguros super hero lawyer, and I was compensated for the damage to my mirror.

You may not need it often, but when you do it's is sure nice to have it.

One thing to note for those that may not travel much in Mexico, if there is vehicle contact of any kind, you have to stop and dial 066 by law. I haven't been down to Mexico in a while so I'm assuming that's still the way it works.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:16 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by markharf View Post
Y'know, I'm starting to doubt my own memories. I guess that's a sign I'm spending too much time on web forums, not enough time actually doing anything in particular.

Mark
. Happens to me too. Just the other day I started a conversation with "Last week I..........oh wait that wasn't me."
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