Farkles for the GS-W: Put 'em all in here

I just finish mounting mine. It has its own switch and I pull power from the nav connector on the right side for the relay so it turn off when I turn the key off.

Don't forget to order the mounting bracket for the switch (for metric bikes, don't order the one for BMW bikes, $9)

Not sure if this would be classed as a farkle but I'm thinking about vinyl wrapping the red painted panels to protect from rock chips etc (maybe matt army green or something). I noticed that the panel running the length of the tank has a built-in 'tank pad'. Can anyone tell me if this is stuck on with adhesive or if it simply unbolts from behind?

Thanks!

I wish I could trade you for my white ones. :-(

Unfortunately the bike is on a 3 year contract hire - that would certainly confuse them at the end of the term!

The tank pad snaps on.No stick um

Thanks that's great, easier to get on the vinyl without trying to cut around it!

I just bought p-clamps from Lowe's and they work just fine. Not pretty, but I don't really care. And the lights stay where I put them.

Yes, as previously said, the PIAA switch works very well ...IIRC, the load for two D2s is around 5 amps max. PIAA also makes a nifty switch bracket for around $20 - but you can easily make one out of alum flat stock from the hardware or hobby store. I mounted my bracket to the mirror post rather than the housing mounting bolts.

Dahveed- PIAA makes an very nice universal bracket (#74000) with which to mount lights to the crash bars.

I installed an accessory socket today. The Powerlet low clearance one. I chose this instead of the BMW accessory socket because the BMW one wires up to the one in the cockpit. This means that it is controlled by the canbus and shares the same current draw limitation that the stock socket does, which could be problematic if you wear electrics in the cold weather. Additionally, the canbus shuts off the connectivity of the OEM sockets, and I wanted a socket wired straight to the battery (albeit fused) so that I can attach a trickle charger to it for the winter months.

You need to locate the hole carefully so that there is enough space for the part of the socket that protrudes into the area where it is mounted. Take great care in choosing this spot. I used a 5/8 drill bit and then hogged it out with a knife little by little until I had the hole large enough for the threaded portion to fit through.



As you run the wiring back to the battery, you'll note that with a little lifting and flexing that you can route the wires under existing bundles.



With the seat height forward adjuster pulled out of the way, it is easy to see that there is a "tunnel" of sorts that wires use to leave the under seat area. You want to run your wires through there.




As the wires run through that tunnel, they rest in a sort of plastic tray. The tray has a notch in it, and that is where I suggest your wires exit the tray and head down toward the battery. You may find that pushing a wire through the tunnel along the tray is a little easier if you pull down slightly on the tray, from the side just above the battery.



I also added a splash-proof inline fuse holder to the leads, for safety's sake. You can find them at any auto parts store.



Take extra care when attaching the positive lead. I chose to attach mine to the jump starting pin. I noticed that the area it is affixed to is insulated with rubber. It appeared to me that you need to be careful here or you will inadvertently ground the positive to the frame. So, use an appropriately sized eyelet and be careful with the angle and routing.

Thanks for the details. Probably the route I'd use to.

I installed a Laminar Lip last week and did a 300-mile ride today. It didn't seem to do anything at all, at least nothing noticeable, same buffeting

I am also loving mine...KCCO

Thanks for the excellent write up!

My pleasure. As I add or do more things, I'll post those up, too. Sadly, my budget does not permit lots of things to happen at one time.

Many of us are in the same boat as you are ...budget-wise.

That's a shame. It's still working for me.

It is such a complex thing. Screen size, shape, height/size of rider, helmet, etc. I struggled for 3 years on my Buell Ulysses until I finally found the right combo of shield and wings. Good luck!

After reading the controller diagram closer it looks like the switch doesn't see the amperage I thought it did. It simply talks to the controller so it's actually only seeing a slight bit of amperage.

I have a PIAA switch that was removed from a bike before I sold it.
(The lights didn't survive the vibration of back road Baja. The wiring and the switch did.)

I think I'll try to integrate it into this new, and hopefully better, set-up.

We use these clamps at work.

They are great in a stationary application.
I personally wouldn't use them on anything that includes lots of vibration, a little twist and some weight because they crack where they get stressed. And once they crack they'll tear all the way through in a short amount of time.

If it was me I'd add a loose fitting tie wrap to that set-up (To catch them if they fall) until you find out if they can handle the stress. BUT that's just me.

Laminar Lip for sale here. I'll get a Cee Bailey shield - hope it'd work

AM installing P3 Lights per earlier posts where power is tapped into 7.5 amp accessory plug. Also need to trigger a relay for Eastern Beaver fuse block. Think I can use same 7.5 amp accessory plug wire for triggering relay as well as power for P3 lights?