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Old 08-20-2013, 12:35 PM   #61
CPRFAB
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Originally Posted by alongat View Post
Chris, I'm in Toronto, Canada so I'm going to call you to explore shipping options that won't take two weeks to get to me and then place my order. I've already got my canisterectomy done, going to do my SAS removal today/tomorrow so I'll be ready for your intake system.

Thanks again
You're ordering a $60 air conditioning filter from us... right? Don't worry, we know how to handle customs... (Canadian shipments priority mail usually take 3 to 5 days USPS)
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:47 PM   #62
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Anybody know if you'd still have to take that Safari tank off in order to clean/change-out the Rottie on a SE? I'm guessing yes, but didn't see it anywhere for sure. If you don't, man that would rock.

Sooooo tired of removing that tank every time the dust gets close to the beast ....
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:54 PM   #63
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Sorry Chris - didn't get to call today. I will ring you tomorrow.



Quote:
Originally Posted by CPRFAB View Post
You're ordering a $60 air conditioning filter from us... right? Don't worry, we know how to handle customs... (Canadian shipments priority mail usually take 3 to 5 days USPS)
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:08 PM   #64
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Easy service!

Uli-

You CAN access the filter w/o removing the tank... one of the reasons I went for it!!! Sorry I don't have a pic.

I am running an oiled pre filter. It's easy to reach in, grab a dirty one, and put another on. If you want to remove the entire filter assembly, you'll have to reach in to get the front fastener. The trickiest part is on re-assembly making absolutely sure you have the lip seated correctly on the left side and the fasteners in line for a good seal. It's worth double checking when you do it, for obvious reasons.

Ease of service alone makes this setup worth it. The added oomph... I'll take that too!
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:39 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado Uli View Post
Anybody know if you'd still have to take that Safari tank off in order to clean/change-out the Rottie on a SE? I'm guessing yes, but didn't see it anywhere for sure. If you don't, man that would rock.

Sooooo tired of removing that tank every time the dust gets close to the beast ....
Personally, I'd pretty much count on having to remove the tank to get filter off/on CLEANLY with the OEM tank or any other aftermarket tank. There just isn't enough room to easily get your hand/arm between the tank and the filter to get to the forward fastener.... and even if you could, I'm pretty darn sure that there isn't enough room to get the filter over the velocity stacks with the tank in place. On top of that, you would be dealing with a DIRTY filter over the top of the open CLEAN side....
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:23 AM   #66
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Thanks guys for the opinions. Hmmmmmm .... Uli has pretty damn big hands. They are great for moving kegs of IPA; not so great for working in confined places. (You should hear my German cursing when I'm trying to stick the carbs back into that blasted black box. "Where's the hidden camera?")
Riding off-blacktop mostly in the dusty states -- think John Wayne or Sergio Leone here -- cleaning the filter is a daily chore. (How often can you take a Safari Tank off and put it back on before it totally falls apart anyway?)
I can spray my hands with filter oil to lube 'em up to get in those tiny recesses. Lube me up, I'm going in ...
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:27 AM   #67
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The foam prefilter and/or the 'filterskin' is a workable solution that would allow you to maintain a mostly clean primary filter while out in the dusty wildness... there is enough room to easily remove/replace both of these type of filters that go over the primary filter, even with Hulk Hands Hans (Uli)
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:02 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post
The foam prefilter and/or the 'filterskin' is a workable solution that would allow you to maintain a mostly clean primary filter while out in the dusty wildness... there is enough room to easily remove/replace both of these type of filters that go over the primary filter, even with Hulk Hands Hans (Uli)
Been using that for a few years but just can't replace the skins with a Safari Tank on it. I can pull a skin off if I tie a bit of string to it.
I was contemplating replacing the entire gooble-di-gop (German technical description for air filtration system) with something I can clean by the campfire at night.
Keep searching ...
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Colorado Uli screwed with this post 08-21-2013 at 11:29 AM
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:05 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post
The foam prefilter and/or the 'filterskin' is a workable solution that would allow you to maintain a mostly clean primary filter while out in the dusty wildness... there is enough room to easily remove/replace both of these type of filters that go over the primary filter, even with Hulk Hands Hans (Uli)
When I say "prefilter" and "filterskin", I am talking specifically about the add on options to the CPR filter, not a "prefilter" for the OEM airbox.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:23 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post
When I say "prefilter" and "filterskin", I am talking specifically about the add on options to the CPR filter, not a "prefilter" for the OEM airbox.
Ach so!!!! Ja, now I understand you.

Danke, mein little Ken.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:27 PM   #71
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Heir Uli, sind Sie herzlich willkommen
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:05 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Colorado Uli View Post
I was contemplating replacing the entire gooble-di-gop (German technical description for air filtration system) with something I can clean by the campfire at night.
Keep searching ...
We have something coming very soon (sorry, only for Adventure owners) that will make filter changes insanely fast and easy. We are very excited about this one and will have them at the KTM Rally. Stay tuned.

(And yes, this on is patent pending)
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:08 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Kafn8td View Post
Thanks Chris. Saving my $$ for the LCD. I like to tinker, so it will be worth it.

Tahoeacr, I'll change the 100% to 12.8 for all rpm's. So are you saying change the 0% throttle from 500 to 2250 rpm to 14.1? it's idling right now at 13.5 or so.
Here is some tinkering for you.

Go with 14.1 up to 20% and 4,500RPM. This is your closed loop MPG area. Some engines will idle smoother at 13.1-13.5. If yours idles better at that then leave it there. After 20% TPS you want to add fuel evenly until you get to 12.8. Kinda like this,

but we are starting at 14.1. Ride with that map for a couple hundred miles. Pull the map then save it to your laptop. Make another one and set everything to 12.2. More fuel like this on the bottom will increase torque a little. Ride with this map for a few hundred miles. If you can't tell a difference, put the other map in. If you find some areas that you like the second map better (richer map) then add fuel to the first map in that area and try it. Anything you change in the closed loop area "<20%TPS" will effect MPG.
Report back on your findings for others to try.
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:20 PM   #74
CPRFAB
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Originally Posted by Kafn8td View Post
Thanks Chris. Saving my $$ for the LCD. I like to tinker, so it will be worth it.
I'll post up pics to show you what to set the LCD to that will show you (what we feel) the best info. We use the dual dial with the 5 squares below.
  • Dial left: Front AFR
  • Dial right: Rear AFR
  • block 1 (from left to right): fuel adjustment front
  • block 2: fuel adjustment rear
  • block 3: gear (I will show you what wire to tap to do this)
  • block 4: RPM
  • block 5: throttle position
This will allow you to see pertinent information for tuning as in at what RPM and TP are the cylinders putting out AFR wise. The only thing we would like to add is temp but if your at 13.0 plus or minus your good.
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:21 PM   #75
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Got it Tahoeacr. I will set it up and try it over the next couple of days.

CPR, you're gonna force me to do it...
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