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Old 08-22-2013, 11:21 PM   #16
drmax OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
No worries about the oil leaking out, but it will still be messy as you will want to clean all the grunge away from the sprocket area to avoid getting debris inside the seal upon reassembly...
gotcha. i'll run by the auto store this morning and see if they sell a puller. I may have to fabricate something. thx man
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:37 PM   #17
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ok

I see that the shaft seal appears to be holding up just fine. It's not wet around the bore of eng. half, unless I'm missing something. In face, the inner portion of the rubber seal is dry. I'm leaving this puppy along. Now, I noticed the bushing is nearly 1/16" narrower than the new 12mm bushing...part number 54633014100 than the old one removed. I called KTM parts and they said I have the correct bushing. I'm assuming it has narrowed over time (wear) Seems like a lot of material lost, for a hardened bushing. It is barely grooved. My concern is the width of the new bushing being wider. Since it is the correct part, I'll slap it back together with new oring and run her. It really don't look like it was leaking, but must have been. Let me know if you think this new bushing width is wrong. thx, DM
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:10 PM   #18
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size diff. on bushing

the old one measures 10mm. When I put on the sprocket and snugged down, it is not flush with the drive shaft like the old one. Is this ok? Thx, DM
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Old 08-30-2013, 04:09 PM   #19
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ok finished

I've ran the bike on a crate with front sprocket only for maybe 10 min's...with mirror no leaks noted. Put on the chain and it is tracking ok. I'll assume again the 2mm diff. in bushing width isn't and issue. Will torque sprocket accordingly and ride it and see if it still splatters oil. If so, then I'll replace that shaft seal. If not, then we're good again until the next pit stop. Pretty quiet here at thumper haven. Guess yall are having some wobbly pops...as I am. Take care. DM
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:43 PM   #20
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test run

Ran well and sounded fine. Washed rim and will keep an eye out for the oily specs on the rim to reappear. Have a good holiday weekend folks. DM
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:02 AM   #21
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:30 AM   #22
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drmax View Post
I see that the shaft seal appears to be holding up just fine. It's not wet around the bore of eng. half, unless I'm missing something. In face, the inner portion of the rubber seal is dry. I'm leaving this puppy along. Now, I noticed the bushing is nearly 1/16" narrower than the new 12mm bushing...part number 54633014100 than the old one removed. I called KTM parts and they said I have the correct bushing. I'm assuming it has narrowed over time (wear) Seems like a lot of material lost, for a hardened bushing. It is barely grooved. My concern is the width of the new bushing being wider. Since it is the correct part, I'll slap it back together with new oring and run her. It really don't look like it was leaking, but must have been. Let me know if you think this new bushing width is wrong. thx, DM
The new bushing being a little wider is a good thing... This will allow the spring washer to put a little more pressure on the O-ring thus giving a tighter seal..
Did your old bushing, sprocket setup have the same spring washer, small spacing washer, retaining bolt as the new items you installed? It seems to me that when I pulled an older LC 4 motor apart it did not have the small spacer washer that sits inside the bolt... This may have been changed on the later model bikes to give better chain to sprocket alignment...
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Old 08-31-2013, 04:29 PM   #23
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The new bushing being a little wider is a good thing... This will allow the spring washer to put a little more pressure on the O-ring thus giving a tighter seal..
Did your old bushing, sprocket setup have the same spring washer, small spacing washer, retaining bolt as the new items you installed? It seems to me that when I pulled an older LC 4 motor apart it did not have the small spacer washer that sits inside the bolt... This may have been changed on the later model bikes to give better chain to sprocket alignment...
old setup is identical...only a 2mm narrower bushing. I road her just now for 10 miles and all sounds ok. my only concern would have been to pull that shaft seal out and replace. i'm sure that seal rubber is not a plyable as the new one, but I was just a little uneasy about getting it out. if I still get a leak, i'll have to. I did buy one of those seal pullers, that the other guy posted a pic of, but damn that thing looks way too big to be of any use. I need the baby one to that. later
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Old 08-31-2013, 05:48 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by drmax View Post
old setup is identical...only a 2mm narrower bushing. I road her just now for 10 miles and all sounds ok. my only concern would have been to pull that shaft seal out and replace. i'm sure that seal rubber is not a plyable as the new one, but I was just a little uneasy about getting it out. if I still get a leak, i'll have to. I did buy one of those seal pullers, that the other guy posted a pic of, but damn that thing looks way too big to be of any use. I need the baby one to that. later
You make it sound like a huge issue to pull that seal, in reality it only takes about 5 seconds to pull it out with the pictured seal puller... I have popped them out with a long screwdriver and a little piece of plate to pry against to protect the case... Installing the replacement can be a little more time consuming... The best method I found is to freeze the seal, warm the case and carefully tap it in place making sure it goes in evenly and squarely...

If you buy the rubber coated seal they seem to go in a lot easier over the oem metal sided one...
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Old 08-31-2013, 05:53 PM   #25
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You make it sound like a huge issue to pull that seal, in reality it only takes about 5 seconds to pull it out with the pictured seal puller... I have popped them out with a long screwdriver and a little piece of plate to pry against to protect the case... Installing the replacement can be a little more time consuming... The best method I found is to freeze the seal, warm the case and carefully tap it in place making sure it goes in evenly and squarely...

If you buy the rubber coated seal they seem to go in a lot easier over the oem metal sided one...
if it ain't broke, I don't fix it. an "easy job" usually goes tits up for me.
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:32 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
You make it sound like a huge issue to pull that seal, in reality it only takes about 5 seconds to pull it out with the pictured seal puller... I have popped them out with a long screwdriver and a little piece of plate to pry against to protect the case... Installing the replacement can be a little more time consuming... The best method I found is to freeze the seal, warm the case and carefully tap it in place making sure it goes in evenly and squarely...

If you buy the rubber coated seal they seem to go in a lot easier over the oem metal sided one...
So right.

Or...

http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piec...-set-5469.html

I made one out of a big cheap screw driver bent 90 degrees at the tip, a big washer and a bigger brass nut.

Slap it silly.

bill
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bmwktmbill screwed with this post 08-31-2013 at 09:38 PM
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